0 build moving on to bag f, which contains some highly customizable parts, the rear hubs and camber links, the rear hubs and camber links. Bag bag f contain parts that you can really begin to customize. According to your driving style or particular race, surface metal drive shafts that are lightweight as well as incredibly strong, along with a rare hub assembly that has been redesigned so that, along with an array of customizable inserts, we can change the toe and hub height at the Hubs themselves, rather than just at the inner hinge pins, the setup also adds active toe, meaning it can add or reduce toe, as the shocks are compressed finishing off we’ll be adding rare camber links which need to be put together beforehand. So with that said, let’s get started. We’Ll begin by choosing your desired hub inserts from the plastic tree. I’Ll be sticking with the stock inserts for now, as noted in the manual and insert these into both sides of the hub taking care to orientate correctly. Next, we insert a flanged bearing into the front, in other words, the bearing with a lip on the outer edge and where other hubs would have a ridge on the inside to hold the inner. Bearing. Here we have a plastic spacer instead before inserting the inner bearing and that’s the hub, pretty much prepared, complete the same to the opposite hub, so inserts outer flanged bearing spacer and inner bearing and with both hubs now complete.
We can move on to the cvds. So, starting with the driveshaft, i like to add a tiny bit of grease to the cvd as well as inside the axle not too much as we don’t want to attract too much dirt, but just enough to reduce wear next, we insert the first piece so the Hole is lined up straight from bottom to top before covering with the stub axle and dropping in the retaining pin. This can now be inserted into one of the two hubs already prepared repeat the same process for the opposite side: building up the cvd and pushing into the second hub turn both making sure they are completely free. Next, we want to drop on one of the two 17 millimeter wheel, hexes onto the axle making sure to align the holes since we need to drop in a retaining pin notice. The pin has a flat edge in the middle. This needs to be facing outwards that we can insert a set screw to lock it into place. Remember to apply some thread lock to the set screw and tighten down. You may find it easier to use a 17 millimeter wrench to hold the hex into place. For this step again, we repeat the same steps for the opposite side, and with that said, our rear hubs and drive shafts are complete. Both should turn completely freely with no binding whatsoever. Okay, so now we’re ready to install this onto the rear assembly, go ahead and choose your rear arm inserts again, i’m sticking with the stock for now and insert into either side of the arm before inserting a set screw into the bottom of each no thread lock Required here, although do not over tighten these just enough, so that they snug repeat on the opposite arm, along with the set screws, next insert the dog bone end of the drive shaft into the cup and seat the hub into position.
Although, before feeding the hinge pin through, we need to add three shims to the side of the hub, after which the hinge pin can slide through and is secured into place, with a black lock nut on both sides. Again, we don’t want to over tighten here and create any binding issues, so just enough so it’s snug and repeat the same on the opposite side too. So with the rear hubs and drive shafts now in place, we need to build our camber links to do this. We need to insert the turnbuckles into the rod ends note. The rod ends are not pre threaded, so, as we insert the turn, buckles we’ll be creating the threads at the same time. The best way to do this is to apply a small amount of grease to the turnbuckle threads. Then push it hard into the rod end as you twist, you may find it easier to use a wrench or even the shock tool to grip the turnbuckle. As you twist, the rod end into place repeat on the opposite end, bearing in mind the opposite. End is reverse threaded and then onto the second turnbuckle two take care not to twist the turnbuckle in too far as you could end up, creating a dimple on the inside of the opposite end, which will in turn affect the free movement of the pivot ball. Talking of the pivot balls, these can then be inserted into each end of the camera link easy with the techno shock tool.
If created correctly, you should have a 69.5 millimeter gap between rod ends here, there’s, even an actual size diagram in the manual to compare with to make sure you get the length right anyway, once done with the rear assembly, pointing forwards, you’ll notice, a small dimple on The turnbuckle this dimple always goes to the left side of the vehicle. One end will connect to the top of the hub and the other to the shock tower again. We have a lot of customization available here. Although the stock positions are the center hole on the hub, where we insert a 22 millimeter cap head screw and the second from the top middle hole on the shock tower, where we insert a 20 millimeter cap head screw, both can be secured with a lock nut On the opposite side standard by the hub and a flanged lock nut by the shock tower install the final remaining camber link on the opposite side again. Ensuring the notch in the turnbuckle is facing to the left and ensuring you’re using the same mounting positions as the first side before securing into place and that’s our rear end assembly. Pretty much complete. Everything is turning nice and freely, as are the arms and gamblings super high quality stuff.