If you saw the other day’s video, you will have seen this car run 100 miles an hour on just 2s. A few people have asked what i’ve got fitted this car. What tweaks have i done to it? What mods have i done? Someone let the camera down tour around the car and talk through the mods it’s got on it at the minute future mods i’m gon na make over the next few days and news of this upcoming 3s test. I would just say: i’ll leave nothing out in this hundred mile an hour rc car build every little part that i fit into the car. I will talk you through every little mod i’ve made to the car. I’Ll talk you through. If you think i’ve missed anything, have your say in the comment section below and remind me, email or i’ll expand on it in more detail. If you need it and from the outset, the one thing i would say, i’m quite proud of with this car is being able to run it at such stupid speeds and i’ve got all those high power electrics in with the stock body on the top. The only modification to the body has actually been a little bit of trimming on this back edge to take into account the long brushless motor worse. But when we get the body off i’m gon na explain why those motor leads are the length they are. First of all, let me talk you through the external setup on the car things like the shocks, the tires, etc stock shocks and springs on here: 30: weight oil in the shocks on the front 50 weight oil in the shocks on the rear at the rear.

You’Ll see i’ve tightened the springs up as much as possible to make that rear end as stiff as possible. At the front i did have it set very very loose. Indeed, these were right up to the top. I spent five days of trial and error last week playing around with them and decided to move them down quite a bit. I thought it really wanted to replicate the same setups precisely eight mil gap on shocks on there. I have found that doesn’t get kicked around too much. You will notice. The air arms are nearly at 90 degrees to the car, but not quite i’ve, put in two tiny little droop screws, which is just m3 by tens in each side on there. Now you can do the same at the back, but i’ve chosen to keep the rear of the car up in the air. When you see the car like this from the side, you’ll see the front is considerably lower than the rear. My friend phil, jolly of youtube speedrun fame, advised me to do that always have the front of the car lower than the rear. For one thing, if the front’s slightly lower than the rear, you are getting some aerodynamic effect with the wind pushing down on the front of the car, pushing it into the ground, whereas if the car is level under full acceleration, the front actually lifts clear and immediately You’Ve got wind going underneath the car, so i can see the advantage in starting with the car like that and in terms of suspension setup.

I would just say i put quite a bit of towing on the car to keep it stable at speed, and if you use that droop stream mod, which i’ve just shown you, you will also need to adjust the two track rods here. In order to get the camber of the uh car right as well, the only other mod the car has got to the suspension. A minute it’s got i’ve, got it to these metal steering cups on either side. Now the tires on the car, a lot of people have been asking me about these. They are contact foam tires. You will know this. One needs replacing got a few cracks in it. The like most phone tires do not take well when the car tumbles over on its side, the phone tends to get caught on the black top the tarmac and pull and snap and put cracks in there so i’m going to replace that one before it’s next speed Run with these new contact phones that i bought from go nitro hobbies on ebay, which is one go to place at the minute for spare parts on ebay. These are 26 millimeter foams, 37 sure link to them below the video, but i highly recommend go nitro they’re. Getting them here in a couple of days from new jersey and i’m in california, and last thing before diving to the inside of the car future mods i’m matthew sim do check out his videos of his uh one two four zero one.

Nine has sent me a 3d wing design, so i’m gon na get printing that off and get the wing fitted over the next few days to help keep the front anchor down rear wing. I may leave it as it is, but if it gets damaged like the previous one did, then i might do the uh traxxas rear ring that tomly rc use now for a look at the heart of the matter. What powers this baby? Well, the other thing i would say is if you’re having any accidents like i did in the past week and busting a few bits in the trial and error of getting this thing to run fast. This is based on a copy of one of the lc racing cars. I think the emb one and a lot of those parts are direct replacements for this car because, on my other one, two four zero one, nine the shock tower has bent back slightly because it’s, not the stiffest of metals on here. Likewise, one of the shocks had a rod bending it, but i know a couple of people have had that issue. The biggest issue they’ve then had like me, was where the heck did you get replacement shock parts because they seem to be out of stock in this country at the minute. But if you, google, the lc racing parts you can find them in stock up places that’s. My first tip of the day on there subhux servo taking care of the steering duties not ideal at the minute i normally typically.

I typically have it held down just by two cable ties. People may or may not disagree with that, but the car only weighs about two pounds in weight, so the steering servo is not having a cope with an awful lot in terms of that. The power needed from it on there so it’s doing the job at the minute i may get a little bracket made up. I might go out to my local hobby store this afternoon and see if they sell a pre made bracket, which is the blindingly obvious thing. Richie mamba x, esc, probably the single biggest expense of the car. I actually blew one of these the other week on the learning curve of getting this to go 100 miles an hour, albeit a very, very old one, xt60 plug for the battery which i’ll come on to in a second, this brushless motor three and a half turn Rocket motor adjustable timing on the back of the can you can go from zero to a full 60 degrees on here. We set up 40 degrees on here at the minute. You can then bump it up on the b link app. That is because i’ve got a castle b link fitted to the back of the car above the receiver, which is the receiver for six channel dumbbell rc radio 30 for the radio and the six channel receiver built in gyro, but best of all for speed runs. It’S got a 500 meter range, but this rocket motor should give around about 10 800 11 000 kv, with the timing turned right.

The way up. The reason why i’ve not gone to the full 60 degrees on here is that when i was reading up on timing, which i don’t claim to know a great deal about, they said do not exceed 60 degrees. So if you were to put 60 degrees on here and 20 degrees on through the b link, the motor is, in effect trying to turn 20 degrees one way before going 60 degrees. The other way something like that anyway, the mechanics of it did not sound good. So i avoided going over 60 degrees on there but i’m sure one of the races out there will explain timing on motors in more detail the thing that is when you increase the timing, you get more revs on the motor, but the heat builds up far faster And you have not got room to fit a fan in here, any way, shape or form the reason why the leads are so long. Somebody said oh you’re, wasting current on there rich it’s nominal, given the distance it’s having to travel the reason for this wiring being so long is by routing it around here out the back of the car. It can fit the stock body on if you were to try and take it. This way, there’s simply not enough space which just did to start with, and the stock body wouldn’t fit on the car. So that is the reason why the motor wiring goes around, like that.

I spent quite a bit of time tidying up the wiring making sure none of it is too near the drive shaft in terms of gearing the car is just running, stop gearing and somebody might say, oh, you might be cheating rich you’ve changed the gearing under there. So you’ll have to take this on trust because i ain’t taking all this apart, just to prove a point but it’s running the stock, gearing on there a bit while i say the gearing is stock it’s, both a new metal, pinion and spur gear that i fitted To the car still got the stock drive shaft, although i did bend a drive shaft last week. The chassis has actually survived intact on there, but it obviously flexed and bent the car at some point so what’s power in the car. Well, on its 2s 100 mile an hour run the other day it was powered by this 2000 milliamp 50c electron pro pack on there. Now that has got a 14.8 watt hour rating. So what ritchie? But my next trial with the car is going to be with this jensey’s 2 200 million pack, which purchased two of these the other day, 50c rating 16.3 watt hours on there. Why did i buy two of them? Well, that is so. I can play around with squeezing the two of them in to the tray. That way now i might need to quit a bit of work with the battery leads and i may struggle to get the stock lid to stay on there, but i’ve got a parallel adapter.

So, with these two fitted, i wouldn’t just be running with 14.8 watt hours i’d be running with 32.6 watt hours of power in this car, which has got to make a difference to being able to give that motor the power to do what it wants, and i Didn’T mention i was slightly nervous over the 3s test. I’Ve got a genesis: 2 200 milliamp 50c pack, which, in the other version i’ve built of this car, already ran 104 miles an hour with a castle, 6900 kv motor in there and i sidewinder full combo. So i’m, quite confident we should be getting to some serious speed with this on board and that is 24.4 watt hours on there now the castle b link is fitted to the car. It allows me full adjustment of this mamba x esc. You can adjust every last little parameter from adjusting the timing for the motor punch control. Braking percentage throttle curve brake curve. Everything can be adjusted by your mobile phone via that little b link. I don’t run it on the car all the time i tend to when i’ve got it set up how i like, i will then take it off of the car completely, but i’ve still been tweaking this around. As i was doing in the video where i did 100 miles an hour, so that is where it is on the car, but from day to day i remove that out of the now i did mention future mods, like the 3d wing, that i’m going to print From matthew, i’ll put a link to matthew’s channel below the video, because he’s doing some great stuff with this car, i have got these new metal cbd joints i’ve made of a hardened steel, because when i had its 97 mile an hour crash the other day with This car, the front cvd shaft, has been left with quite a wobble in it, i’d actually bought these to replace the rear, drive shafts, because the same thing happened when in a tumble, while i was practicing and getting the car dulled in one of these rods pulled It loose if the wheel then flops away from the car.

The drive shaft drops out completely on like a thousand foot lot. There was no way i was even bothering looking for it, but you can fit these all around the car. So i’ve actually got four of these in order, but only two have arrived so far. So this afternoon, i’m gon na swap out that bent front one and when the next two come in i’m gon na fit them to the rear as well so we’ll have metal cbd’s all round and from reading reviews of these people said the car and particularly when They fit them to the 14401 as an example runs much smoother with them fitted, and if anybody is wondering why my hands are green i’ve been helping isabella with that science project early on today now, one last mod of which i would like some fan input on Here i did mention i’m gon na try it with the two 2s packs squeezed in there, but they may be a little bit tricky to get under the stock body. The other option is remove this rear wing and potentially run these two batteries or a large 3s pack on there, and this speed run body it’s actually from my traxxas vortec, but it’s not too bad a fit, and i could get another new one of these. Maybe and cut the rear arches out on there. What do people think of that idea? I am thinking that with a big 3s pack in there could be devastatingly quick and the arrow on this body is particularly good.

I know from using it on the four tack: what do we think should i give that a try? I will point out. It is going to require me to make some custom made mounts up in order to mount the body onto the metal shock mount well there. You are that is everything in my 100 mile an hour, rc car build word of caution. If you are turning the motor timing up to its maximum, like i’ve been doing, the moto will run warmer. I was paying careful attention when i’ve been doing the speed run. So i run it slow going away from me to keep the motor cool so that i can really put the power down hard when it comes towards me. Hope that makes sense on there also that motor officially is rated at 1s, but i’ve been running it. On 2s and after the speed runs, it’s still lukewarm, to touch by hand, i have a feeling might get a little bit warmer under 3s, but then i’m more than confident we might be going slightly faster than 100 miles an hour on 3s. Anyway, it has been a learning curve building this car the five days. Last week it was like crash central in this house. I was busting something every day and working on the setup to get that car handling, as well as it did on those last couple of high speed runs anyway. If you wanted to know exactly what goes into 100 mile an hour rc car build now, you know thanks for watching well thumbs up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3yyVR8UTwY