The 64 lowrider comes in one of the fanciest boxes to ever grace an rc car packed with high quality laser cut foam to preserve the vehicle. Since this is a fully assembled ready to run lowrider, you can pretty much remove it from the box and drive all of the electronics that are needed are included. The body comes fully painted and detailed and, of course, a pre programmed 6 channel transmitter is included with switches made to look like the real thing. There is also a 6 cell nickel metal hydride battery included and a usb battery charger. The only thing required are four double a batteries for the transmitter if you’re digging this video go bump that subscribe, switch now from the outside. This may look like your normal, typical rc car, but as we’re gon na show you it is a purpose built machine designed to bounce and look good doing it for our size and scale. The low rider is a proper 10 scale, sized vehicle now here’s. What that looks like compared next to the phaser mk2 on the left and a trx4 sport on the right you can see, sizing is pretty dang proper and the low rider would look perfect if you wanted to put it on a trailer and pull it behind your Truck or dually and it would be easy to pull off because this thing looks so scale realistic to make this possible nearly every aspect of the car that can be made realistic has been starting with the lexan 64 body.
First first thing to note: there are no exposed body clips. Instead, the body clips are underneath the chassis for that hidden, concealed look next, the 6’4 lexan body is actually made from five different lexan pieces secured together. The main lexan piece is the biggest and that’s the whole center section that runs from front to back. Two more panels are used on each left and right side running again front to back, and these panels are secured to the main panel with tape and then our headlight and tail light sections make up. The final two lexan pieces and they’re secured with screws on those lexan panels are a lot of details bolted on now up in the front this entire grille and headlight section is one chromed, hard plastic piece, the same for the bumper below it now with our headlights. These have actual buckets inside ready for you to add your own leds into the same goes for the buckets in the front bumper. Now, moving back down the center of the hood you’ll find a chrome strip. Decal then hard plastic, chrome, windshield wipers and more chrome trim. Decals around the windows on the side panels, you’ll also find officially licensed badges, another long, chrome, decal, strip, running full length and the hard plastic chrome door handles now moving all the way in the back. We have a second chrome bumper made from hard plastic. More officially licensed badges are tail light, buckets that are functional for your own leds and, lastly, the hard chrome strip, wrapping above the tail lights all of those pieces together make for one very intricate rc body that i am so thankful that somebody else put together now, If you want to add leds to this body, it’s pretty dang easy with this red cat kit, offering 12 different leds sold separately included with the low rider.
Is this decal sheet that features two different graphic designs to choose from these don’t have to be added to your car. But if you want extra details, you can add them. Also, two chrome plastic antennas are included, they don’t come installed, but once you put them on, the body looks even better one area. You never expect an rc car to look scale. Realistic is underneath it now if we flip the vehicle over. We have this huge plastic floor plan that sits atop a realistic box cross member chassis frame. You’Ll also notice a molded in transmission under here towards the front, then a center drive shaft and at the back, a gas tank for more realism. Finally, we have hard plastic chrome exhaust pieces to polish up that final look now here are the hidden clips that need to be removed to release the body. Since this body is so nice and a bit delicate, you can use the foam piece from the box as an upside down car stand with that done, you can see our fairly simple interior, lexan piece that’s been painted black and features a molded steering wheel and seat Bumps redcat also included this decal sheet. If you want to add more interior details to that piece. Next are the awesome: 14 inch replica spoke wheels and white walled rubber tires now unscrew, the chrome spinner and seeing the 12 millimeter hex. These rubber tires are glued to the wheel and feel all rubber with no insert inside the tires feel a little toy like, but with a 12 millimeter hex, there is a lot of upgrade options.
Speaking of upgrades, did you know that redcat offers 3d printable files that you can download print yourself, paint detail and then install on your car. All for free you’ll find things like a rear view, mirror sun, visors, headlight visors and more just so. You can add even more scale details you’d normally never see on an rc car and when you’re ready to display it redcap made the box. Leave this backdrop, so you can display your car on the box in style. So much detail and attention went into making this car look amazing, but how does it perform if we get a good look at the inside workings of this vehicle? We see two separate electronic systems at work, one to control the vehicle and another for our low rider action to steer the car is this hex fly nine gram, servo forward and reverse power is provided by this 380 size brushed motor. The hex fly. Electronic speed controller is also brushed and lipo compatible, but you will need this jumper setting moved to lipo mode before you can use a lipo safely. Now, when you charge up the included battery with the included usb battery charger, expect it to take about six hours to charge from dead, which is pretty dang slow, so buying yourself. A dedicated battery charger for that battery, which will charge in about 30 minutes, is a great investment. So how fast is the 64 low rider with the included battery fully charged? We set out to answer this and, in the a main hobbies parking lot, we were able to achieve a top speed of 13 miles an hour now that top speed may not seem so impressive with how fast rc cars are today, but considering what this vehicle is.
13 miles an hour is probably 10 miles an hour too fast as a regular rc car that can accelerate forward and back up or turn left or turn right. The 64 does everything you’d expect it to do with this being two wheel, drive or rear wheel driven, and it also has an open, functional differential in the rear axle. So its driving characteristics are very much on par with other tent scale on road cars of this type, with one exception, the vehicle will wheely. If you accelerate hard, because weight has been added. If we open up this fake fuel tank from the bottom, we see a full stack of weighted metal plates inside which essentially helps unload the front end, helping it bounce now, i’m, not exaggerating when i say it, but 90 percent of the weight from this vehicle is In this caboose to demonstrate this here’s the lowrider on an rc scale that weighs each corner, you can see our left right side. Weight bias is almost perfect but front to back holy moly 11 to 89 wow that’s over 2500 grams in the rear, with less than 400 in the front all to help it bounce now in terms of performance for just the low rider aspects of this car, the 64 offers three main functions. The first is lifting the front end of the car as a whole and it’s controlled by this single servo that actuates a bearing supported, pivoting cantilever system that hovers over the steering assembly.
When the servo moves at full speed, it provides the pop needed to raise the front end. The shock absorbers on the front also provide some springing action with repeated bouncing now on the transmitter. Channel 3 switch proportionally controls the front servo movement and reacts at the same speed. You move the switch now on the left of that is the toggle switch that also controls this servo, but in an on off function, providing full speed and movement when held but returns. When let go, lastly, you can drop the front end when it’s, elevated by just pressing and holding the drop front button on the transmitter. When you release the button, the vehicle will return to its previous lifted position. Now. The second and third lowrider functions deal with controlling the rear, end and that’s, with an independent control on the left and right side controlled by two servos mechanically. The system is much simpler than the front, with the shock absorber directly attached to an arm on the servo channel 5 switch on the transmitter controls the left side and channel 6 controls the right just like with the front switches. These are also proportional all the way on the right. We have another on off, toggle switch that controls the rear end as a whole. That will lift it up when held and drop when released. Lastly, you can drop the rear end as a whole when it’s, elevated by pressing and holding the drop rear button.
Just like with the front when you release this button, the vehicle goes back to its original lifted position. So the idea here is there’s a few different ways to utilize these switches, so you can string together your own combination of movements to, however, it works best for you. Now, from our experience, you could spend a lot of time messing with the switches learning the switches trying to get better with the switches trying to improve your timing and your movements. All of that. Whatever the case, when you start messing around with the 6 4 it’s a lot of fun, but it is extremely captivating, everything else tends to just disappear. Now our experience wasn’t all roses and butterflies, though we did have an issue now. Essentially, what was happening is the rear. Tire would rub on the wheel. Well, when we were in a three wheel position now with that tire bound, if you tried to drive forward the car wouldn’t go straight and instead it would just drive in a circle as the differential was working, and this would happen with each rear tire. So to remedy this we marked where the tires were rubbing in the wheel wells with a sharpie. Then we used the dremel sander to remove material now. This seemed like a really good idea at the time, but it wasn’t just a little bit of material. We had to remove. Instead, we ended up just removing the whole center section of the wheel wells and then we zip tied the wires on the top of these wire hold downs.
The final result is buttery smooth three wheel action, we’re going straight in retrospect, it would have been a big brain move to just use the transmitter to reset those endpoint adjustments, but in doing so it would raise the rear ride height just a little bit, which is Why we didn’t do it in the first place and instead we went with the caveman move and we just cut out the plastic: either method would work, but perhaps one method is better than the other. So, in conclusion, this 64 is a really impressive rc car it’s super realistic. Looking it functions as a low rider. It functions as a proper rc car it’s available in blue or red color and dang it i loved every minute of it. It’S, not a car to go bash on hard it’s, not something you’d, add a fast motor system to it’s, not even something that you would try to convert to a different type of car later. Instead, the 6 4 is kind of like a piece of rc. Art meant to be loved and appreciated just the way. It is guys thanks for watching this video.