2014-2018 Toyota Corolla H-Key Plug & Play Remote Start Kit
I usually start right here underneath the steering column, the big ignition harness, which is right here, there’s a clip on it. You just push it in and pull out and it will come right out of the socket grab, the big harness and our kid that has the thick wires on it and you’re, basically going to plug in the socket into the factory location and then you’re gon na. Take the factory connector and plug it into our mating, connector and then there’s a spot right up in here where this connector will fit perfect. So you just basically fold this over stick this up in here and then the slack wire will follow this harness right down. Here come down and then it’s gon na go over to the left above where our obd2 connector is so. Our our home base is gon na, be right here in this area, that’s, where our module is going to end up in all of our connectors. Okay. So now that we have that all zip tied up as you can see, the mesh loom comes right down and follows this harness over and it’s all secured nice and tight. So when this lower plastic shroud goes back on nothing’s going to interfere with the fitment of it, so everything will go back together. Just like it came apart and then back in here. If you can see, I actually routed it behind everything, and then it comes out right over here.
The next connector that we’re gon na do is the obd2 connection. Your hood latches right here, it’s the white connector directly to the right of it. So basically, what you’re gon na do is take your plastic pry tool or a flathead screwdriver pop one of the locking tabs on the side and then just push up, and then you can pull it right off the top here. Next you’re gon na grab our harness and hook it up to the factory connector. So basically, the mating connectors plug in together here, like so and then the white one that resembles the factory connector goes right back down in here in the hole. The last harness that we have to install is going to be the BCM connector and if you notice, there’s a big area right there. So what I’m going to do is take the BCM connection and feed it right down right down through there and then I’m going to pull it out down here through the bottom. So I got my BCM connection down here over to the side. As you can see the obd2 here right behind it, we have the fuse box cover and then right behind it. We have the 30 pin BCM connector, which is a single connector and there’s a tab on it. That’S facing you. We just basically need to push the tab in and I’m actually just reaching my hand around this plastic deal here so push the tab in with your thumb, reach around the backside and pull it down with your fingers, and it will release out like so there’s.
Not a whole lot of slack on this thing, so be patient and don’t force anything so again, just like the obd2 you’re going to take the factory connector and plug it in to the mating plug on our harness here. So you’ll hear it click like so, and then you take the remaining one and plug it back up into the BCM connectors. The last connection that we need to make is behind where we pull the panel off at the fuse box, but we basically want the second one in right here. So if you can see that there’s a tab that you push down and then you have to pull back on the gray things, I’ll pull that out and show you what it looks like you basically push down on the tab and as you’re pushing down you’re gon Na have to pull back on this gray connector. What I’m gon na do is actually undo this tape. A little bit you don’t usually have to you can do it right here, but I’m actually going to solder this one after I but connect it. So I want a little bit more slack here, so I cut that sheathing back all the way to where this plastic lock tab is which locks it in right there above the hood, pin or the hood release, so everything is kind of like secure and where it Goes so this just pops right out of there? Okay, so for the cut, if you’re holding the connection like this or the tab is up just like it, inserts and it’s gon na be the far right column of wires and it’s going to be the third wire down Music, we’re gon na cut it in half And then I’m gon na show you the connection of what we need to do for the TPMS cut we’re gon na use this harness right here that has the RIT connector so take the little tie off it undo this whole thing and then on this connector.
If you’re holding it like so you’re gon na use the white red which is on the far right and then the third one in which is a white green, I usually come down about a foot and cut the white green. So now, we’re left with this right here and I’m, going to go ahead and tape. This up. Okay, so here’s the TPMS harness after it’s all prepped up. If you don’t want to tape the whole thing up at least tape up the area where the cut wires are just to insulate them. We always solder here at the shop, but if we do include the butt connectors for the people, that don’t know how to solder or don’t have access to the soldering iron, so you don’t have to use these connectors. You can actually splice these on and solder, which I’m actually going to do after I, but connect these on to show you guys how to do this, so basically, what you’re going to do is I come down like about an inch and strip the wire off. I twist it and then I fold it in half like so, and then I put the butt connector on it and crimp it down and then give it a tug test to make sure it’s secure and the only reason that we fold it in half is just Because the wire is so thin, it just gives you a little extra, a little extra thickness for this to bite down on okay.
So after you have these cramped we’re going to do the same thing in the vehicle, so the connection side or the connector side you’re going to tap the white red wire onto so you can twist these fold it in half as well pinch it down so it’ll Fit inside our connector so grab the light with the red, and it goes up here to the connector side and you basically insert it and you trip it down the same thing on the car side, which is down here so twist. It fold it in half pinch. It down enough where this one is actually the white green. So after you twist bend it in half you insert it into the connector. You crimp it down and then, like I said, I’m actually gon na cut those off and solder them. But for this video we’re gon na just kind of roll with this, but after you get these all connected right here, just bring this down fold these over in a way where it will blend in and fall flat against the wire. The red connector go out here to the side where all the other connections are and then take your roll of electrical tape and tape. This harness back up, I usually come down to right where I cut the sheathing, so it’s all black it’ll wrap around, and you already even see these connections and then you’re good to go. It’Ll blend right back in with everything so I’m, not gon na tape that up until I solder them.
One final connection we need to make before we can program the module and that’s the little black wire that has the ring terminal that comes off of the main connection here, the ignition harness. So what we’re gon na do with this is feed it right back over behind everything and it’s going to come out right over here. We want to make sure that we ground this to a factory bolt that’s, a very good ground source, so the 10 millimeter bolt that’s right back in there. What I’m gon na use is my ratchet with the extension and a ten millimeter socket and then the the ring terminal will fit right over the bolt, and then you reinsert this put the oil ratchet down here. First, what we’re gon na have to do is on this module there’s a little program button next to the cut wires, so you’re gon na push and hold this button. You’Re gon na insert the main ignition harness right here and you’re gon na see these lights fluctuate from blue red amber and then the two outside blue and Red’s light up together. So we actually want to release this when the two outside red and blue lights are lit up. So we’re going to go through this again, so it’s going to be blue red, amber red blue release and they stay red and blue. Now you plug in the remaining connectors, so you’re gon na have the red connector on the back side, which is your TPMS cut, we’re just going to pop that in here, you’ll hear it click on the front side, you’re gon na have the medium white connector that Plugs right here next to the big one and you’re gon na, have one more small white one that plugs in next to the red one that we plugged in right here on the back side.
So in total we have four. We have the red, a small white, a medium white and the large white. So now what we’re gon na do is we’re gon na push this program button ten times, and these lights are gon na flash every time that we press it. So one two three four five: six, seven, eight nine ten. This should flash nine times if it doesn’t you’re gon na have to unplug this connector and start over so make sure before you proceed to the next step, that you count these and make sure it’s flashing. Nine time so the next step is we’re. Gon na turn the ignition on to program the module for the car. So you just take the key and you’re just gon na put it in the ignition and turn it on and watch this light right here: Music, they’re, gon na start, flashing, red and blue and then the blue light flashes by itself when the programming is complete. Just like so I usually let it flash for about 3 to 5 seconds finish. Everything up turn the key off the light goes out and our module is programmed so I’m gon na stick it over here. So we can shut the door and test the functionality out. All right, so we got everything installed and completed and we’re going to show you how to use the remote start here. So from the key fob. You’Re gon na push the lock button three times so you’re gon na hit one two.
Three, the doors are gon na unlock, the car is gon na start and then the doors are going to relock. So that way, your vehicle is going to remain locked, the entire time that we’re started so right now, it’s, locked and obviously it’s going to be locked from you pushing the lock button three times so we’re gon na hit one two three you’ll hear the doors unlock. So it’s unlocked the car starts in about five seconds after it started it relaunched the door. So that way, obviously your car’s still secure and everything’s good to go for remote start. So it’ll run for fifteen minutes. When you come out of the house to your car. You’Re gon na hit the unlock button you’ll hear the doors unlock you can get in the car still running, you’ll notice. The tack here shut the door. The TPMS light over here on the left is gon na flash until you put the key in and turn it forward. The reason for that is, we interrupted the wire for the factory key to work during remote start. If you don’t do the TPMS interrupts, you can start your car from the factory remote, but the unlock button will not work when it’s remote started. So you have to do that cut if you have the TPN system in your car, so that light will go back to normal as soon as you do the key takeover. So basically you take your key.
You come over here. You insert it. You turn it forward. All the way to the on position and then when you push the brake, the parking lights will flash. The TPMS light will turn solid and then go off and now we’re good to go so we’re still running. And now you can actually put your foot on the brake, put it and drive or reverse wherever you need to go and we’re still running, so the car never shuts off and then you’re good to go.