2018-2019 Toyota Tundra Plug & Play Remote Start (NO WIRE CUTTING ON NEW VERSION)
We got a couple things here, so we got the module. We have the main ignition harness, which is the big fat wires. And then we have our secondary harness, as well as the TPMS interrupt wire, which it comes with all of them. But if your vehicles, not equipped with with the tire pressure monitor system, then you do not need to do the interrupt but it’s here if you don’t use it, set it aside or whatever, and then you know we got some let’s just open this up, real quick. If I can with one hand okay, so we got a little card with all of our info phone number website, all of our stuff on here and then on the back there’s, some other stuff too. We got a warning decal that you can stick under the hood. If you want to just basically warns mechanics and whatnot that there’s a remote start on the syste on the truck, if you know if they need to deactivate it before servicing, and then we got it an alcohol pad that basically just prep the surface for the sticker. Like I said again module our harness ii, harness TPMS interrupts, and then we got some instructions here. So okay, first thing, we’re gon na, do how I usually do this. I start with the main harness here. This is the factory connector that I unplug so I’m gon na plug it into the mating connector, okay, and then we got the replacement that goes up here.
I can get that in there so plug it in okay. No, we got that and then this there’s plenty of slack right here to zip tie it up but I’m going to show you just open this up open that out and then we pop it in and it matches with all the factory wiring I’m gon na put A zip tie around that since I broke it and it’s freaking cold that one clips back in, as you heard it and then just route it over to the left here, there’s one loose wire, which is a black wire that goes to chassis ground, and I will Show you where to put that shortly so from this point you can zip tie this puppy there’s a good, solid, harness right here. You can zip tie that to you just make sure you position this in a way and it’s not tight. So when you telescope the steering wheel back and forth that it has enough slack to move with the steering wheel, it doesn’t move, but a couple inches. So I usually just leave some slack here and it’s, not it’s, not big deal at all, okay, so secondary harness. We got two adapters, we got the obd2, then we got the BCAM which I talked about earlier, so the BCM harness I usually start with. It goes right back in here, so I already unplugged it, as you saw earlier, so basically plug the factory connector into here.
Now make sure that there are no bent pins in here. These are super fragile, OAM pins. You need to be careful of don’t force it so as you see it, slides right in and then you’ll you’ll hear it click so we’re good there. Now this end plug right back into the BCM you’ll, hear that click to you, okay, the next one we need to route – is the obd2 connector which goes down here that we pulled out of the airbag mount. You basically put the OL factory one into the mating. Connector and then the white one that looks just like the factory one you poke down in here, oops, if you can put it the right way and it will audibly click. So here again just zip tie it there’s lots of slack on the harness and then what’s left. Is you got three connectors here? You got a big white one, a medium white one and a small white one. I know super technical terms right, okay, so these plug into the module which I’m gon na go grab and then show you the programming process. One thing I forgot to show you guys the loose black wire that comes off of our main harness here. There’S two grounding points up here. You can take your pick. These are both ten millimeter bolts, so you don’t have to go, find another socket or anything, but I usually use the one on the left undo it.
The ring terminal fits on this bull it’s to the big freakin brace here, which is chassis ground, never had a problem with it. Just it’s right here, where your BCM connectors at so you don’t, have to tear anything else back apart and then we’re gon na program. The module here in a second and then I’m going to show you where to put the the interrupt wire that’s down here in the kick panel and then how to prep it so, okay, so the programming process. For this I got the module there’s a little button right here, so you’re gon na push and hold it insert the big ignition wire harness the lights are going to fluctuate. If you can see blue red, yellow and then it’s going to go blue and right at the same time, you want to release the button when they’re, both blue and red. So if you release it on any other color or you don’t get it on blue and red you’re gon na have to do this step over. So we got we’re gon na blue red, yellow blue and red release, and now they stay on blue and red. If you can it’s hard to see it’s the two outside lights, so they stay blue and red. What you’re gon na want to do is hook up the remaining two harnesses, so you’ll have your medium harness. That goes right here next to the big ignition wire and then the four pin or I’m sorry, the 6 pin white connector goes in the back here next to the red one.
So you plug that little guy in okay and now we’re gon na push the program button right here ten times. So you push it one: two three: four: five: six: seven, eight, nine ten and now the lights going to flash nine times and pause and then nine times again and pause and it’s going to keep doing that. Okay, so make sure it’s nine times, they’ll count that and if not, you need to push the button again until you get to nine. So every time you push it it’ll flash once so, let’s make sure we’re there, one two three four five: six, seven, eight nine! So we’re, good okay! So now what you’re going to want to do is take the key if I can find it turn the ignition on so put your key in turn. It forward the lights go off and they start blinking rapidly, okay and then once the blue light starts blinking like this, that means the can bus has been programmed. You can turn the key off and now programming is complete. So basically, when you turn the key on the lights are gon na flash, then it’s going to go off and then the blue lights gon na flash and when the blue light flashes. That means that the data the data part of the module is programmed, and you are now done man. This is a frickin long, ass, video man, I’m. Sorry guys! So now, if I push the lock button three times, it’s going to start, but we won’t be able to unlock the vehicle.
Why it’s running? Because we haven’t done our interrupts down in the cake panel, but I’ll show you that here in a second okay guys. So this is the harness that you’re going to use to do the interrupts in the kick panel on the tundra that I’m working on it’s. Actually, in the past era, I’m. Sorry, the driver cake panel, some of the vehicles it’s located over here in the passenger kick panel. The notes will be in the install guide as far as the location and connector pin location. So, basically, what you’re going to do if you’re going to get this whole harness here, but you only need two buyers and you’re gon na need the white red, which is this far one right here and then the third one in which is white green. So all the other ones just cut off and I’ll show you that here in a second, so the white and red white and green on the far right is your white red third one in his white green, the other ones just snip off here. So then, we’re gon na have a lot of extra cable that you guys can throw in your drawer and use for something else. If you want to you now, what I usually do is take some electrical tape: tape up those little loose connections there and then I’m going to show you two methods that you can use to twist. These wires he’s the red one, tie it right here and then you take your drill.
Can you come back here and you put the wires in it and now your wires are nice and twisted all the way down? Okay. So, as far as these wires go, I recommend soldering them into the vehicle in the event that you don’t have a soldering iron or you just don’t want to do it. We include these two little butt, connector, so strip the insulation off twist the wire up, and you can fold it over to have a little bit thicker wire there, and then you can insert into the butt connector and then just crimp it down. And now you got a kid solid, crimp and you’ll do the same process in the vehicle, alright guys so now, for the the moment, you’ve all probably been hating for the kick panel over here. So, as you know, we twisted up the white red white green wires. They come over this route them back over and down to the kick panel here, just got ta make sure you get it behind everything and when you bolt the back up nothing to get paint. So what you’re gon na want to do is down here at the very base of the kick panel you’re gon na find a blue connector and then a white 20 pin connector, which is right here next to it. If you can see that right there, so we want this one right here, so press that tab pull back on it. You’Re gon na have to undo this black electrical tape and then the interrupt wire is gon na, be.
Let me pull this over and show you guys, so this is the bottom it’s going to be right there next to the big fat blue, one right here, it’s pink on this connector, it may be red. It may be another color in your truck depending on the trim level and what you’re trucks equipped with as far as electronics and whatnot, but it’s always going to be that second pin in so on this one it’s between the blue one and the yellow it’s paint On this truck, like I said it might be different on yours, but you always want to do the second pin in and we’re gon na cut that wire and I’ll show you, which side goes where here a second, alright guys, so you got two wires down here. Obviously you got your white red and then white, green white red is gon na go right here on the connector side like this or if you’re soldering solder, it they’re white Green, goes over here to the car side. So what I did was I stripped the insulation punch in white on I stripped the insulation back on here and folded, the wire over to give it a little more thickness. So it’ll crimp good but, like I said I recommend soldering but white red goes to connector side. White Green goes to vehicle side, so crimp those this is going to let your remote work after the vehicle is remote started. If you don’t do this, your truck will still start you just won’t, be able to unlock the doors with the key fob.
Okay guys, so I got everything installed. The is not back together yet I wanted to demo this. I highly encourage you to test the remote start and all functions before reassembling the vehicle in case. Maybe you didn’t get something plugged in all the way or something just didn’t. Take that way you don’t have to take your truck back apart and also I’m installing our phone module, which will let the customer use the phone app to basically lock unlock GPS locate and start the vehicle. So I still have to do that, but I wanted to show you guys this, so the vehicle is locked right now. It will remain locked during remote start since you’re pushing the lock button. So how this works is you push lock button three times so we’re gon na hit lock, lock lock the lights are going to blink you’ll, hear the Toyota beep. The truck will unlock to disarm the factory alarm prior to cranking the engine and then about five seconds. After it’s running it will relock the door, so the truck remains lot. The entire time it’s remote started, you’ll walk up, you’ll push unlock, you can open the door, the truck stays running and you get in put the key forward. You can just drive off so, unlike the push button starts, this one will not turn off with the door closed. So here we go so we’re going to hit block lock lock. So, as you can see up front, the parking lights are illuminated front and rear.
The doors like I said about three to five seconds after it started will be lost, and now you can hit the unlock button and you can get in obviously we’re still the trucks still running. Something to know is, if you do, the interrupts in the drivers kick panel or for the TPMS. Your TPMS light is going to flash during remote start that’s, because we did two interrupts which allows the factory key to operate. Remote start, there I’m sorry locks during remote start, but when you do, when you put do the key takeover hold on a second, so you put the key in two clicks, one two and now, when you push the brake to pull it out of park, it disengages The remote start, and then your light goes off, so that is normal for it to flash during remote start. But as soon as you do the key takeover, it will go away and then turn the key off and you’re good to go so again, lock, lock, lock, you’ll, hear the door unlocks. Oh it’s unlocked right now and then about three to five seconds after it starts the door, will lock so it’s. Basically, if you have an OEM alarm, it disables the alarm and then reactivates it after it’s running and then it’s locked push the unlock, just a parking lights flash and then you can enter the vehicle. So super awesome super convenient and if you guys have any questions holler at me, all the info is down there.
In the description and again this is a 1800.