5 Arrma 3S Must-have Mods!
Basically, the five must have modifications for the arma 3s lineup uh. This will apply to all the 3s vehicles, whether it’s, the granite sun 10 typhoon 3s vortex uh. All of the 3s lineups this will basically apply to and just want to cover. The five must have modifications that i think are worth doing. This is a these are very good vehicles out of the box, certainly one of the best lineup out there for bashers, but i do think there are a few weaknesses that i think are worth addressing and just want to cover those so we’ll get into number one. First off the axles, i think, are worth addressing: there’s really no loctite on the drive shaft, so i’ll show you how to do that kind of a weakness, and what you’ll find is that after some time, basically, these axles will unthread themselves from the drive. Shaft you’ll lose power to one wheel. The wheel will actually pop off so uh. It is kind of annoying it’s not really fatal, because none of the screws get lost everything kind of remains attached, but i just kind of want to show you how that’s actually done so we’ve got my armor vortex here in front of us going to pop off The little hex here you need a one and a half millimeter hex unscrew that pull off the little drive, shaft pin, and then you want to have to basically unscrew uh the upper camber link.
Here i’ve got a little power driver. It makes life a little bit quicker Music, so you just pull that off and then you’ve got another one here on the bottom it’s, just like a little hinge, pin uh set screw. That holds the hinge, pin in place unscrew that a little screw there and then you can go ahead and push out the hinge. Pin you can use your one and a half millimeter driver to pull that out and then basically you can remove your little axle and uh half shaft of the drive shaft. So what you want to do is uh unscrew. The little screw here down the middle and you’ll need a longer drive shaft. So you just stick a two millimeter, a hex driver down the middle it’ll slot right in there and then you’ll notice that that little screw is actually not really tightened, very well, it’s, actually kind of loose and uh it’ll, actually eventually pop off. If you don’t loctite it so uh that’s, where it threads into and you can see, it’s kind of made into that screw and you’ll want to basically lock tight that so grab a little thread. Locker i like using this vibrate i’ll, put a link down in the description below, but it’s, basically kind of a gel style thread locker and then you’ll have to get it into the axle itself because you can’t really get to the screw. So you just put a little drop there in the entrance right there in the front of that little, i guess nut or whatever you want to call it pop that back into the housing here and then you can go ahead and pop the drive shaft back on Get your hex driver and uh put that down the middle and just tighten it Music, not a bad idea to put the drive, pin and hex back on Music.
You can tighten that down Music and then the easy way. Is you just kind of stick? The hex back into the wheel, just to kind of hold it in place, give you something to grab onto, and then you can go ahead and tighten it the rest of the way there. As soon as i can find the hex there and you just tighten it down nice and snug, and then you can go ahead and put this back on the vehicle, so that’s pretty much uh tip number one. These axles, unfortunately, are not thread locked from the factory and because of the rotation of the tires, you know the tire will try to spin this way. While the drive shaft is turning that way and then it basically tends to unthread itself and eventually will pop off it’s kind of annoying. So i would just go through all four corners and do the same thing and then fix that problem before it becomes a real problem out in the field. So the second weakness of the arma lineup is pretty much the motor mount um. This is the power module once you remove it from the vehicle and uh. Really. The weakness of this thing is that dust tends to get into the power module itself kind of comes in through this little gap here on the bottom, where the spur gear sits. So what i like to do is just take a little velcro, just the soft side of the velcro clean all this off and then put the soft velvety side on and just provides a little bit of cover for that gap without really taking up too much space.
Some people like to rtv this or put tape or whatever i find that the velcro works pretty well it’s easy to apply you just kind of cut it to the shape and then attach it here and then make sure you put a little gap there. So you can split the module case like that, and it just prevents dirt and dust from coming in here quite as much. This is really the main weakness dust will get in here. Tear up your spur gear also tear up these bearings that sit here on your motor plate itself, so yeah a little velcro goes a long way to prevent further damage on these and that’s kind of uh. You know tip number two on how to fix your armor. 3S tip number three is really the main weakness of the armor 3s lineup, and that is this motor plate here. So this motor plate tends to bend. You can see here. I’Ve got one that’s kind of bent there. You can see it’s kind of curved around uh in major impacts. Basically these things will bend because of the weight of the motor it kind of flexes forward bends, this motor plate and then it’s, you know, sort of permanently damaged. You could hammer these things straight, but will never be perfectly straight. These are made of kind of a cheap cast aluminum, i think they’re, five or six millimeters thick, but still bend, especially on the forest line. These bend really easily.
So i do think it’s worth upgrading the motor mount. So this is a hot racing piece. I’Ll put a link in the description below, but it’s made from a higher quality. Aluminum it’s got additional bracing here on the edges here, a little bit additional heat sinking and stuff. So i find this is to be a higher quality. Metal does hold up a little bit better and is otherwise pretty much identical to this piece. Just a little more durable, um m2c racing also makes a version it’s fairly expensive, but it includes kind of like this additional bracing in the front. That’S. Probably the beefiest option, like i think the hot racing won’t hold up to most people, but if you really go crazy and launch this thing, uh rich duper bash style 50 feet in the air. Then maybe you want to get the mtc racing, although it is quite a bit more expensive, so that is tip number three on what i think is worth addressing the hot racing motor mount. You could probably run this. You know as long as you can, until it bends and then work look into upgrading, maybe pick this up. In addition, uh. The other issue is once this plate bends. You tend to crack this little rear hub on the slipper hub itself. You’Ll develop a little crack and then you know you’ll have to spend another 20 bucks fixing that so kind of worth. Picking this thing up initially and saving uh you the cost of having to replace those hubs, so that’s tip number three tip number four is to change out the hexes on the wheels.
So the armor 3s lineup comes with 14 millimeter hexes. Unless you get the typhoon, which is 17 millimeters but 14 millimeter hex is it’s kind of a weird size, uh, not a whole lot of wheels out there. There are some wheels from deer tracks and stuff, but uh. If you want, you know for sort of the full range of different wheels and tires out there. I do recommend changing out the 14 millimeter hexes for some 12 millimeter hexes. So 12 meters should be fine, especially these aluminum ones. They mount right on so there’s a couple different options. This is the duratrax version, not quite as good as the hot racing version. The hot racing has an additional set screw to kind of hold it in place, but this will also work just be a little less convenient because it doesn’t stay on that. Well, unless the wheel is tightened so yeah 12 millimeter hexes allows you to run different wheels. So these you know these stock vortex tires. I don’t find particularly good, especially on dirt they’re, okay on grass or the street, but on dirt, yeah, just don’t provide enough traction. They’Re kind of a harder compound and don’t provide quite as much grip so going to 12 millimeter hexes, give you a lot more options on different tires wheels all that kind of stuff and get something better than the stock tires tip number five is to upgrade the Servo, so the stock stero is a spectrum s651 servo, uh it’s, actually not bad performance.
Wise uh, speed, wise torque, wise it’s, totally fine, no real issues, but i do find that these things don’t last particularly long. They they will eventually go out. They’Re not the most durable thing, especially if you’re doing some serious bashing, so picking up some kind of upgrade servo, i think, is worth it in this case. I’Ve got the power hd wp 23 kilogram servo, so servo wise. I would look for something around point. One four point, one two seconds or or lower, so the faster it is the lower the number the better it’s going to perform and then in terms of torque yeah somewhere in that 250 plus range, i think, is totally fine. So i run this on six volts that provides 319 ounce inches of torque plenty of torque. There are other options: i’ll put that down in the description below pretty much any of those sort of 20 25 kilograms. Turbos will work as well. This is a 23 kilogram. Waterproof version i like this servo, but that definitely something you’ll have to replace once the stock servo goes out. You could warranty this thing, but you know that’s just going to break again, so i do think it’s well worth upgrading the servo now. The other piece you’ll need is a different servo saver. Pretty much every other servo on the market, except for spectrum, runs 25 tooth uh spur gears. I’M. Sorry, uh servo horns so uh. What i recommend doing is picking up this, the kimbrough large server saver.
This is the extra strong spring version, so the number 124 provides a little more torque it’s, not going to. You know basically give quite as easily as a stock servo horn, the servo saver, just a little stronger um, basically provide a little bit better steering and it does have all these different adapters for all your different servo tooth counts, so including the 25 tooth, which is Probably what you’re going to end up with so this part i’ll put down in the description below but well worth it once you pick up that other servo you’ll need to get a servo receiver that matches, because the stock service saver is a 23 tooth and probably Will not fit uh your servo, the only modification you’ll have to make, is basically kind of cut off the corners of the servo saver and kind of drill out that middle hole to two and a half millimeters. So you have to take a little modification here with a dremel or a hobby knife or something cut off, basically the corners to allow this thing to kind of rotate, but this is a much better option than stock server receiver. In my opinion, anyways. I hope you enjoyed this video definitely hit the like share and subscribe buttons.