Um i’m gon na do a quick review on this or make it as fast as i can um, basically going through the build the issues and stuff that i ran into in the manual um. The electronics that i put in it my overall opinion on it, the driving experience things that i did and yeah. So, if you’re going to buy one if you’re going to build one, this is a great video to watch to get informed on a lot of little details. I’M going to go over a lot of small niche stuff with the truck. So if you’re interested in that awesome, if you’re not it’s, probably going to be a boring video, but anyway i made a small list of mistakes that i encountered on the in the manual that i’m going to go over very quickly. And so this is just to help out future um builders of the kit to expedite your build. So all the mistakes that i found were small and i was missing two parts that horizon sent to me and i already have so i’ll – go over all that good stuff, so uh. The first thing that i wanted to uh the first issue. I guess you could say um or mistake in the manual when you’re installing your rear shock um, the 20 millimeter screw belongs in the trailing arm. The 18 belongs in the top. Here they tell you to do it. The other way so 20 in the bottom 18 is in the top.
It should be the way to install the shock um, and this is all of the two issues as far well pretty much all these issues. Now they may update the manual. This is a very first batch kit, but your rif kit should have these same things as well. I i don’t believe this is isolated. Just to my kit, so pivot balls, uh, you’re gon na be missing some pivot balls in your kit right here and um right. There on your upper shock mount because you have two shock mount locations on this lower mount. You have a lower one and an upper one, well you’re not supposed to use the upper one at least and that’s the way they tell you to set it up. So what they do is they tell you to put a m3 by 18. I believe that’s the screw through this upper shock mount here and you put a pivot ball in between just to you know, tighten up this mount um. When you tighten the shock up, it keeps this mount here from kind of flailing open it just kind of makes the mount stronger. Well, they give you the screws, but they don’t give you the map, the pivot balls, and they don’t tell you to do it. That is a mistake. If you look in the exploded view the pivot balls and the screw, they are both installed. So um, like i said, it’s not a big deal. I ran the trek truck plenty of times without it, but you need to have them.
Send you some pivot balls you’ll. Have the screws left over from the front axle build to do it? You need to have them, send you the pivot balls. They sent me the pivot balls, and the other thing i was missing is a battery strap uh. I only got one battery strap. I don’t know if that was intentional. They still sent me an extra one if it is intentional that’s, weird to me um, but i only had one battery strap that i put here in the upper one, the upper location or the further towards the front of the truck. There is a place for two. Obviously the one they sent me i’ve installed it, and it holds my 3s 5000 much more securely, so yeah. If you only get one battery, strap make sure they send you them. They come in a pack of two, so it really doesn’t make sense that you only get one when you buy them. You get two of them so anyway, that’s the two. Those are the two parts that i was missing in the rift kit um. The next thing i have on here is there was quite a bit of surface rust on the bare metal parts so – and this is in, like all rc cars ever, but your axle shafts and your little um yolks here on your drive, shafts or whatnot. These steel parts – they have a lot of surface rust on them from the factory, make sure you clean those real good and lubricate them with like a teflon lubricant.
Just because you’d be amazed at how much rust comes off um a random note. You cannot fit a 1415 motor if you are wanting to run a castle system. Um like i do. You can see the motor sits right down in there, not a lot of room in there, so the 1415 is too long. You probably could get away with it. If you want to um, take some plastic off of the skid, but if not uh you’re gon na have to wait for the 1412s to come out um whenever you’re installing your receiver. If you’re, if you are running castle, your receiver is very hard to get to your receiver box is right. There and i’ll show you the bottom here. There’S, your receiver box, and the only way to get to your receiver once it’s installed, is by taking the cage off, which is not a super hard job, but it’s. Definitely not something you’re going to want to do a lot so um. I do recommend installing a b link um if you’re running castle it’s definitely time to invest in one of those. If you’re going to put a castle system in the rift, it will save you so much time and it’ll allow you to go in there and tune your truck as you drive it. So b links are very nice and i was able to fit a b link and all the wires in that receiver box um when you’re installing your um trailing arms, make sure that the nuts on the back side of these screws face each other.
So they go towards the inside of the truck. They tell you to build them the same way, but then that would mean that on one trailing arm the nuts would be on the outside and aesthetically. That looks a little weird it’s supposed to be where the nuts are both on the inside of the truck, also uh the rear upper links. The way they tell you to build all these links is so that this indicate this little engraved indicator circle. They all face the skin at least that’s what it should be well, if that’s the case, then they told you to install the pivot balls wrong. If you want, if in the way it should be, is the chrome pivot? Ball goes on the indicator side, so you can see that little indicator circle right there and then the black pivot ball goes on the other side. That’Ll fix your links and they’ll all be installed in the correct orientation. I did get a screw with no threads. This is the second time this has happened with a horizon axial kit, the screw that i had was this little three by five that holds that pin there captive for your knuckles or whatnot and that’s a very important screw. You cannot run this truck without it. One of those screws had no threads, so luckily i had a screw lay. I had a brand new pack of 3×5 is funny enough. I don’t even know why i had them, but if you don’t, you have to go to the hobby shop just to get some screws it’s pretty annoying um.
I think that’s going to be just about it. The last thing i will say whenever you’re installing the body panels there are 11 screws, then that install the panels and in the instructions they say, they’re all the same screw and they’re. Not you get two longer screws with a little bit bigger head and common sense tells me that they go here just because there’s more plastic here for a longer screw to go down into so i think that’s, where they go um, but the instructions say they’re. All the same, but they’re, not okay, um now let’s just go over the kit itself. What do you get? Well, you get these aluminum up. These little aluminum trailing arm. Stiffeners they’re. If you’re familiar with older axial vehicles like the bomber they’re the same things, you get a sway bar, you get a gray cage it’s, a off white kind of gray. You get most importantly, you get the new axles. You also get the low speed gears with it and a spool. I think, that’s, all you get with the kit. I don’t think they changed anything else, but if they did then i i’m not aware of it. But yes, with the kit, you do get the updated axles. I am very well aware of the ready to run drift, uh rift drama and that really sucks about what’s going on, and you know the only way to get these updated axles is in the kit and that’s ridiculous, and so a lot of people are upset, but People are also taking out their anger on this kit um, and you know the kit hasn’t done anything it’s, it’s horizon’s fault, so don’t pay attention to the reviews that aren’t reviewing the actual kit um, because the reviews that are there are really skewing the um.
The reviews it makes it look like the kit’s, bad and it’s not, but the updated axles are in this kit and right now. The only way you can get them is in the kit um yeah. So we all have our opinions on that um it’s, pretty ridiculous, but anyway updated axles and um. I decided to put a spool in the center diff, so it is a locked center diff. There is a no fluid in there and i did run this truck with the 1 million weight um, but i ended up putting 500 000 in it after i drove it for about 30 minutes so but that’s what you get with the kit um now i’ll go Over my components and what i did um to make the truck drive better first of all, i’m running a copperhead esc. This is a castle esc, a newer esc from them. I really really like it. It’S the first one i’ve ever had um have the on and off switch mounted here on the dash, not the best look but it’s practical uh tons of room to fit stuff. I was so surprised that i was able to fit this copperhead in there and all of those wires and there’s so much extra motor wire that i was too lazy to to cut down and all that stuff um. I was able to fit all of it in there. Under this interior, i mean with tons of room to spare um.
I did have to put some heat shrink on the motor wires there. So that way, the lexan would not cut into my wires but plenty of room. I am running a 3 800 kv 1410 5 millimeter shaft motor from castle uh. Yes, that is a very high kv and a small can for this truck um. I can only run 2 and 3s on it as of right now, but after seeing just how much power this truck has on 3s there’s no way, i am going to run 4s on it um, but it is a um. It is a heating issue, obviously, because the motor is too, the kb is too high there’s the motor right through there not a lot of air gets in there either um, but yeah, but i will say, on 2s it’s a whole lot of fun, with the high Kv and on 3s it’s, probably what it would be like on 4s with like a 2400 or 2200, and so i get about 10 minutes of runtime on 3s before it gets too hot um, and i am waiting to install the 1412 from castle. When i can get my hands on it, but if you’re a light, driver and you’re going to run 2 and 3s, a 3800 is actually really not all that bad. You have to be very careful, though i am running a sensor, setup um, so that allows my esc to read my motor temperature, and so i do have the esc cutting the motor off at 170 degrees, so that’s a bonus.
If you run censored, i do recommend running censored even with a 3800. This thing still has really good low end torque, a very accurate. You know throttle response under low end. You can actually crawl with it pretty pretty well, so that is my motor and esc. I’M running an sr315 and i just picked up a dx5 rugged, um and uh yeah. This is an okay radio but that’s. What i’m running in the uh rift servo i am running, is saveox 1212 it’s, the black edition it’s waterproof 630 ounce inches. I think cordless brushed it wasn’t my first choice but it’s what my hobby shop had in stock. You also see that i took off the servo saver and put an axial aluminum servo horn on there. The servo saver is really weak and it takes away a lot of your steering accuracy and it takes away a lot of your torque. It might never broke um if you have a cheap servo in here running this uh running. That saver is probably fine, because you, you don’t, want to strip out those cheap, servos um. But i will say that when you do put a an aluminum, servo horn on here, it actually becomes almost even more difficult to control, because your steering is very precise, quick and strong. So you have to maybe even go in and add some expo or maybe turn down the speed. If you want this to be a controllable vehicle, um, so it’s almost kind of like the servo saver sucks, but it almost helps if that makes any sense, but it’s definitely better to just get good at driving the car and have really nice steering.
So i highly recommend that um, i painted my uh interior gunmetal, and this is metallic orange it’s, all tomato paint um, but everything here has been doing just fine. I actually have quite a bit of run time on this truck and i’m gon na go over the um, the driving experience, but to finish up the truck itself and my thoughts of the build quality. I really really like. I love the compound of this plastic it’s. Strong but yet it’s still um it’s still, you know flexible enough to where it’s not gon na break anything. It takes a lot of impact. When you do flip the truck, you can actually see there’s grass and dirt all over the cage. Um – and i also like this plastic because um some plastic – it just seems like screws always strip in it, every screw. I put into this gray plastic here, uh every screw tightened up perfectly. So i like that, i love the looks of it. Taking the cage on and off is really not that big of a deal, although i do recommend investing in a drill um, the sway bar is actually pretty nice good quality. I actually really like the performance of these shocks, but i don’t really like the build quality of the shock, so the performance is okay, but the build quality is kind of whatever. I really love the links, the stainless steel links. The rod ends are good. I will say this and there’s nothing that you’re going to be able to do about it that i know of these um rod ends and pivot balls.
Here the rod ends pop out of the pivot ball. Every time i flip this truck. I could do it if i got a little bit more force, but every single time i flip this truck or cartwheel it. I should say both of these rod ends pop out of this pivot ball. Now, they’re not going to go anywhere it’s captive, but after a while it’s going to wear this rod and slam out or may even break it. So that is something that um, maybe they’ll come up with a fix i’m, not sure, but uh yeah. They always pop out it’s pretty annoying, but i do love the rod ends. Excuse me, i love the pivot balls, the steel, the stainless steel links. The drivetrain is good. The diffs they’re, okay, they’re straight cut diffs. I wish they were. You know beveled or or spiral cut diffs, but they’re not they’re straight cut. All of the metal stuff like the axles and stuff looked okay, um drive shafts are actually really nice transmission built up pretty good. I did not install the low gears because i’ll never use them um and yeah cvds in the front. Actually look really really good i’m. A big fan i like the metal, um diff, covers they look good and the overall look appearance and everything the axles knock on. Wood have been doing great. I have flipped and cartwheeled and rolled this truck a hundred times and i haven’t had anything break so the build quality it went together, perfect the fit and finish a1 absolutely love it uh.
One thing i am disappointed about is: they did not provide bead locks. These are the same wheels and tires as what you get in the ready to run, and i like this combo, but i hate gluing tires because then you can’t use the tire again so um. I really wish they would have given us bead locks, but they did not. If you do want to run a bead lock, you may run into some complications with that fake, caliper and rotor. You may have to take them off because there’s not enough room in the back there for the screws and stuff to fit. I think you would maybe run into some issues, but that is really the riff i’m. A huge fan of this thing. The driving experience is a whole lot of fun, it’s, actually a lot more stable than you think it would be um. Oh one note they do provide one million weight, diff fluid um to put in the differentials. I drove this truck with one million weight and it did okay. It was a lot of fun, but i actually was able to get my hands on some 500 000 and i installed 000 in these diffs. It doesn’t help as much as you think it would, but it helps enough to where doing it was worth it so 500. 000 in the diffs. I actually really recommend you still get a lot of positive traction, but with it being a thinner viscosity, it does allow the um the differentials to transfer power more easily and it allows for a better driving experience.
Especially what i found was on a hard traction kind of straight takeoffs. Instead of the truck wanting to kind of pull one way or the other kind of randomly, it was able to hold a much more straight line, so i do recommend doing 500. 000. If you can get your hands on it, it’s a lot better than the 1 million, but it still has a ton of positive traction, a ton of torque. You can do all kinds of crazy stuff with it um and yes, it flips over every time. You turn it. You have to expect that the people that are running this thing without the sway bar the rtrs, i feel for you guys. I don’t know how you’re doing it, because without a sway bar, i would i wouldn’t even drive this thing sway bar works extremely well on this truck, though i will say um and overall, the driving experience of of the truck is better than i thought it would Be um and so i’m a huge fan, but yeah that’s pretty much the the rift kit. I really like it and i absolutely do recommend it make sure you get your battery strap and your pivot balls. They owe those to you and um. Putting it together was a breeze. I ran into no issues at all as far as the fit and finish goes and um it was. It felt like a very good thought out premium kit when i built it, um we’ll see how long the trailing arms last and you know, there’s some other things.
The pivot balls popping out right there. All the time does kind of suck um no bead locks kind of sucks, you’re going to want to go ahead and get us aluminum. Servo horn you’re not going to want to mess around with that servo saver. If you’re putting a good quality strong servo in there, you’re really not going to want to mess around with it, if you’re running a computer, radio just go in and add some expo tone down the rates, whatever you can make up for um. The lack of the servo saver kind of cushioning the steering you can you can program that back in and still have a sharp and strong steering so that’s. It that’s the rift kit. I’M. A huge fan, i’m very excited to put a 20 uh the 2650 in it. I think, that’s the kv of the 14 12. they’re not out yet, but there are other companies like tekken that have motors that work. Just fine for this truck, so um yeah that’s.