We assembled all the accessories and made up the body to check that everything fits and there’s, nothing that we needed to modify. For the most part. Everything was perfect, except for the holes mounting the case of the interior tray, which were a little bit off center, but it still went together just fine i’m, going to split this video kind of into two sections, the first for the interior and the second for the Main body, as the approach is a little bit different on each if you watched a previous video you’ll, know how it all goes together, so i’ll cut to having the interior out from the body and the parts removed. The only bit you don’t need to take apart is the cage and since we’re going to leave it grey, we don’t need the cage at all. For the time being, the steering wheel will be just fine, as is, but i think we’ll add a little bit of silver paint just to jazz it up a bit. I will reveal that in a bit. The important bit to do first is weld the driver’s head into one piece: it’ll be a lot easier to paint plus a bit more robust if we ever have to take the interior out and give it a good wash after getting it muddy. We’Ll use plasti well to put it together as it’s going to make for an all but invisible join to apply it. We need to use some tweezers to carry a couple of drops across we’ll leave the head to harden up before.
Attaching the hat next we’ll deal with the tray. Now we could paint it on the inside, which is the underside but we’re going to want a matte finish on the top and we’re not too worried about scratches. So we only need to paint the one side since it’s all going to get sprayed one color. All we need to do is peel off the overspray film and build up four or five fairly light coats of black it doesn’t matter if it’s still a bit transparent as it’s, going to be on the inside of the body with the chassis under it. So you’re not going to see any light through the paint. The fun bit is doing the details with some tamiya acrylic jars. The matte finish on the black lexan paint will be good enough for the tamiya paint to stick to nicely i’d recommend a very thin coat of white over the body before adding color, though other than that you can go as mad as you like. With the detail. Now the head’s had some time to harden. We can attach the hat now the hat isn’t the best fit so we’re going to need to screw it down to the head to make it easier, i’m going to tap the post. So we can use an m3 screw to hold it together, while it hardens as we fit the screw. We need to make sure the hat is nice and straight then just make the screw snug.
So there’s a little bit of pressure on the hat. When it’s perfect, we can add a couple of drops of plasti weld around the brim, then leave it for an hour or so to harden off camera i’ve painted up the tray using german gray for the seats. A flat red and blue for the clothes and some skin for the skin, a light wash with some watery brown, colors and it’s good to go once the head was stuck together. I replaced a short screw with a long one and stuck it down with some blue tack to make painting easier. I didn’t go too mad with the detail, just block colors, with a quick wash plus. I ended up with one eye bigger than the other, so it does look a bit funky, but you’re, never really gon na notice. Once it’s back on the truck before we reassemble there’s a few decals that we need to stick on there’s, the air vent gauges and the center console all these decals are fairly small. So the easiest way to apply them is by picking them up with a very clean knife, blade laying them down then pulling the knife away, there’s a bit of a knack to it. So all you can really do is practice once all deckled up the interior looks pretty good it’s, nothing like as good as a hard plastic interior, but considering it’s, just vac form plastic. It’S gon na do quite nicely.
I’Ve painted up the steering wheel with some chrome silver, so it’s, something along the lines of a full size. One and i’ve stuck the jeep logo in the center. There are only small details but that’s going to look so much nicer. If anybody actually looks inside the wheel and the head get refitted with the same screws that came out and then the cage goes back on too and i think that’s a rather nice looking interior, simple parts but very effective for the body. We need to remove all the plastic bits: there’s lots of screws for the arches and body clips for the rest, it’s, essentially just the reverse of our previous video. What we want to end up with is just the shell on its own. Now, before we do any painting masking or anything really, we need to very thoroughly wash the shell out with this soap, giving it a good scrub with a soft brush, getting into all the corners to remove all the grease and contaminants, then rinse it thoroughly to get Rid of the soap, then we leave it to dry somewhere nice and warm making sure it’s a hundred percent dry before moving on now there’s a few layers of masking to do on this. Shell for the best end result generally speaking, it’s a case of first on last off, so we need to start with the window masks from the kit. They’Re all on one sheet, that’s been die cut.
The trouble is it’s really quite difficult to see the edges of the masks. I found being extremely careful. You can peel off the bits of the sheet that we don’t need and leave the masks in place. You have to take it very slowly and make sure you don’t pick up the edges of the masks, but it is quite doable and leaves you with a far clearer set of masks to apply the masks. I know some people manage to just peel them off and stick them down, but the masks have a very strong tendency to curl up and stick to themselves, making a right mess. I like to cut the masks out with the backing so they’re supported and they can’t stick back to themselves. You don’t have to be too accurate with the scissors just don’t cut into the masks themselves. Now we can peel a little bit of the backing away and trim it off, leaving just a small section of the sticky exposed that way. We can position the masks so they’re spot on stick down the exposed part then peel the rest away, while laying down the mask to make sure the edges are all stuck. We use a fingernail to rub them down now, it’s worth noting, just like the inside of the shell it’s critical that your hands are super clean too. A good soapy wash every so often make sure you don’t get the shell greasy rinse and repeat for the other windows.
Add the head and taillight masks and that’s. The first step done next we’re going to want the roof and rear section black. To look like the plastic top of the full size: now you could just paint the outside black, but then on the first roll over the scratches are going to show the main body color. So we need to paint the inside black too. I like to use tamiya masking tape for the crisp edges, it’s the most reliable tape i found for model paints. Then we use some basic cheap, masking tape to fill the gaps. Then stick down some scrap paper to block up the rest. It takes a little while to do but like most things, it’s well worth taking your time and getting the lines nice and even after a few coats of black. It should look like this now, there’s, probably six or seven fairly thin coats here. If you hold it up to a strong light, you can still just about see through it but it’s enough for what we need after peeling the masks off leaving the windows, we can start with the color now i’ve been on a bit of a bright color binge Lately so here we have a neon orange in all its eye: strain glory like a lot of color paints, especially the bright ones, it’s, not quite 100, opaque it’s ever so slightly transparent, so for the full effect. It needs a backing layer too, to get the maximum brightness we’re going to use white.
But if you want to turn it down a bit, you can use a silver or gray too, now i’m going to be doing something slightly funky with the window. Decals, so we’ll need to tint the rear windows with some window spray tint. So now is the time to remove the rear window masks. We don’t want to touch the paint if we can help it so we’ll use a knife to carefully pick up the corner of the mask, then peel it up a little bit of a fiddle, but again it’s well worth taking your time with the rear masks off. We can add a couple of very light window tint coats. I found you need a lot less than you might think. It’S really difficult to judge, while painting when the body goes on the truck it’s, going to look a lot darker than when you’re holding it, especially on a bright sunny day. Now, to finish the inside, we can peel off the front masks too, along with the lights and right. Well, i think that looks pretty good. The only downside is the roof. Is a bit glossy so we’re going to need to paint that on the outside too, the shell has an overspray film, so we’ll use that to mask the bulk of the body and carefully just peel it away from the roof and rear end the less masking. We need to worry about the better you can see with the film removed it’s now ridiculously shiny way too much for a scale.
Look as before, we’re going to use tamiya tape for some crisp edges, then cheap tape for the rest, as well as the edges of the roof. We also need to mask out the rear windows, take your time and make sure there’s no gaps between the film and the tape, as they can be a bit tricky to spot after some more paint and leaving the body to dry for a while. We can peel off the masking and the rest of the overspray film to reveal the finished paint. Now we need to leave it for a good day or so to make sure the paint has a good chance to fully harden we’re going to be refitting. The clips and screws, so we want to make sure the paint can put up with a bit of handling, so we don’t damage it. While we wait i’m going to modify the window, decals now they’re perfectly good decals, but i don’t really want the sponsors in the sun strip and the back windows. But i still want the surrounds it’s going to be a bit tricky, but using a knife i’m going to cut away the inside portions and remove them the trick is we need to press just hard enough to cut through the plastic, but not so hard that we Cut through the backing, it needs a bit of practice and a delicate touch, but it’s quite doable with a little bit of patience. When the windows are trimmed, we still need something to hold the shape.
While we stick them on so i’m going to use some tamiya tape over the decals to act, a bit like transfer tape, then cut the decals out. Essentially i covered the entire sheet with tape, then carefully followed the outside of the decals with some nice sharp scissors. It’S a delicate process but here’s the end result window surrounds without the sponsors. The sun strip at the front was just a strip of black vinyl applied. Before i put the surround on they’re, not quite perfect, but as long as you’re, not using magnifying glass you’re. Never gon na know i’m quite pleased with how they turned out on the main deckle sheet. We have lots more to choose from but i’m going to try and keep it nice and simple and just use the basics, so the door hinges, side, lights and all those kind of things applying them is just like the interior, where we pick up the deckle with A knife and lay them down: we haven’t used any large ones on this build, but the technique would be something like what we use for the window: masks where we’d cut them out peel some of the backing away and stick them down. Next, we just need to refit all the plastic parts as per the previous video. Now this time i’ve got myself a mini electric screwdriver, which really speeds things up: it’s really quite weak, but has just enough torque for the small screws going into plastic.
I found it’s really good for the small scale part screws it’s really not suited for your m3 and up, though it’s really designed for the small screws in things like mobile phones, so it’s not too surprising that it struggles all that’s left to do then is refit. The interior and scuttle with the wipers and that’s the body complete. You can see why i wasn’t too worried about the eyes on the driver being a bit uneven now, he’s in the shade you really can’t, see we’ll still be fitting some lights at some point. In the future, but for now that’s going to be it, we have a body that’s ready to hit the trail. Unfortunately, the chassis still needs some work, though before we can go out and play. Thankfully, though, little spectrum servos with the special servo saver bosses have turned up, so we can install the electronics we’ve also got the esc and the radio ready and waiting. Now we might tackle that next week or depending on how things line up, we might have an outdoor video with lots of tracks. It’Ll depend how late i get home on saturday, though, and whether i pass out right away or if i can stay awake long enough to make a video anyway that’s the orange jeep painted up. I hope you enjoyed the video. So do please leave a like subscribe.