This review is brought to you in part by rogers hobby center in saginaw michigan, where the fun begins. This review covers steve mcgee’s, black beauty, dragster it’s, a 125 scale, kit number 1214 from amt, taking its cues from funny car, racers and others of the time. The black beauty incorporated an aerodynamic sophistication. It went so far as wrapping the exhaust pipes underneath the wedge shaped body combined with great looking graphics. It always attracted the crowds. The original black beauty kit was issued in 1974 and it’s been put out several times since, using the chassis and basic body with changes to the front nose. Now this kit comes from round two and was released in 2020. It consists of 90 parts molded in black chrome and clear, with two piece pad printed: goodyear slicks and some small soft vinyl tires in the front it’s a skill level two for the intermediate builder and when completed the model, is about ten and a half inches long. Three inches wide and two and a half inches high, oh well, that sounds like newt tapping on the glass back there at the observation, deck and he’s our program director he’s got a question now what’s your question: there newt wow that’s a great looking dragster. Is this a real one? Oh yeah um! This was uh, steve, mckee’s, uh rail back in the 80s, and he raced a lot of different classes, but this one was a real crowd pleaser.
So how fast did it go? Well, these uh double a fuelers would regularly turn in times around 200 miles an hour and i’m sure this was no exception. Oh, and here are the contents of the kit it’s a nice clean design and, as you can see, the frame is one piece construction which really simplifies it and keeps the the problem of construction and warpage out of that area. Now we’ll be using mostly two glue to make sure that we have time to adjust and make all of the parts fit together properly before the glue sets and the decals are pretty impressive too. Look at those gorgeous purple flames also uh unusual for a dragster kit. The instrument panel uh decal there now, for the most part, uh everything’s, pretty much flat, uh and so normally i’d recommend some setting solutions, but i don’t think you’ll need them for this. You just have to be careful because the decals are pretty thin and they will roll over on you if you don’t, pull them off and install them properly. So now you can locate the parts for the engine and, as you can see, some are black. Some are chrome also note that i’m going to replace the kits distributor there with a pre wired aftermarket magneto for a little more detailing but that’s, a simple replacement. You just have to drill out those um covers to put the spark plug wires through there. After assembling the basic block, i painted it at kind of a grape purple color to complement the body decals and, as you can see here, i also then after the paint, dried and assembled the basic thing.
I scraped off the um import exhaust ports there so that i could glue the headers on there later i painted the pulleys and the fuel pump aluminum and the blower belt is flat. Black and red was added to the butterflies in the blower scoop for some extra detailing now. Here you can see the aftermarket pre wired magneto, which was painted aluminum, and the cap was painted flat black, and these are pretty easy to install because you just have to use a small drill bit or a pin vise to drill some holes in the top of The valve covers to insert the wires, as you can see here in the front view it’s a pretty impressive engine for your model and in the back you’ll notice that the manifold is painted, aluminum and the engine mounting plate is one shot brand silver that’s number 193 To match the chassis locate, these parts out of the kit to assemble the wheels and they’re a nice looking uh nice looking set of tires and wheels for your model. Now they should be the the rear wheel should be pushed in separately. Uh, the inner and outers, and the inside face of the wheel back back should be painted silver to match the um. The rotor detail, which gets added later and the front wire wheels, can be glued together but remember to scrape the chrome off of mating surfaces and the tires can be just kind of rolled over those when the glue is set in this step.
You’Ll need to gather up all the parts for the lower half, including the front suspension and the cockpit area there in the roll cage. Now this is where it’s really nice, because the complete chassis is easy to assemble, because there’s no alignment issues compared with most kits, whose tube chassis frame sections are separate and have to be assembled at the ends. Now all the tube chassis will have some mold parting lines. Uh, you know so you’ll need a light, scrape grape with exacto knife, and maybe some sand sticks to clean those up on the inside of the frame. There are a couple of ejector pin marks they’re light, but you could you could clean those up along with the number there in case they could be seen at different angles from above i’ve found it effective to drill out the hole there at the end of the Steering link for attachment also remember to scrape that glue plating away for gluing. The arrow points to the place where the tie rod uh is glued to a small pin there. So um that’s, where you’ll, attach that the chassis has a plate to locate the front axle and here’s the front suspension, and that makes attaching the axle easier than some dragster models. The radius rods don’t have locating marks on the sides of the chassis, so they should be kind of trial fitted into place, and then you can scrape the paint from where they are attached before gluing and now get the parts out for the headers.
And, as you can see here, the one on the left is completed and then the pieces for the other header are shown now note the arrows where uh they’re, pointing at the header flanges and they have a front and rear mounting location on the heads. And since the tubes mount at a slight rearward angle make sure to assemble the headers correctly, i found it easier to assemble them first and then paint them all in one piece. Also, like chrome plating, you have to scrape the paint off before you glue surfaces or won’t. Stick the headers then get mounted after the engine is installed in the completed chassis and the tubes headers tubes. There they have a small amount of mold parting line. That you’ll want to scrape off and clean up first at this point, you can see the the frame was painted silver, as we mentioned, and then after that was dried, you can add the shoot pack to the back and assemble the uh, the rear suspension uh. Now i painted that housing purple to kind of matches the engine and then once that’s done there’s no marking on the chassis for the engine plate. So yeah mark up the installation there and locate that by using the rear, end and mount and then scrape the paint on top of the chassis rail and then the underside of the engine plate for assembly make sure that the engine uh dries in proper position. Perpendicular to the uh horizontal uh frame there and then once that’s done, you can add the headers as we talked about earlier, then the completed headers, you know they get installed there and once they’re dry uh.
Here is the roll cage that you can install um and then the the bucket in there, of course, the seat and the steering column has some wooden grips on it and that’s up to you. As far as you know, detailing goes. I really didn’t find too many internet pictures of of this unit, so just use your best judgment and come up with something artistic like this and you’ll have a fine looking display, even in that area, and the detail on the dash panel is pretty good. The gauge detail, but i found just sanding the gauges off flat and then adding this decal. That was provided to give the nicest look so note that steering wheel grips, as i mentioned, they’re painted wood tones you’ll see here painted orange the and silver the dual oil filters they get added to the um. You know chassis there and there was a frame decal on it, the body, so i painted it fram orange color, and now we can complete that chassis by um. You know adding the wheels and to the front suspension. Also note there just to the right of this photo uh the fuel tank is sitting inside the frame there, so that gets mounted into position, and here you see, the rear tires are added as well, and the completed frame uh is looking pretty nice all by itself. Now we’ve also got some interior detail shots here. That shows the fuel tank up front accelerator, pedal, clutch, pedal, a fire bottle and the hand brake and the steering wheel all painted and colors that you’d see are typical.
Here you see in the back end note the disc brakes there, the rotors are painted silver and the calipers are steel, color and also note there’s, some small holes drilled in the ends of the header tubes, with a little flat black painted there for detailing now. It’S time to get the upper body pieces out of the kit – and i assembled all three of these pieces together before painting – to make a one piece body assembly that i could just remove in one piece to show the frame and chassis. Underneath and after a light. Sanding and priming, i used some one shot: brand black it’s, a gloss black that’s number, 199 and airbrushed the body with that. There really then, were no mold lines or sink marks to fix on this, so it was pretty nice. I applied the decals after the paint was thoroughly dried and, as i mentioned, these are thin, so hold the trailing edge down and then slide the paper out on the other side and keep it in place so that it doesn’t start to roll over use. Plenty of warm water and put them into position where they need to go and they should adhere pretty well after the decals have dried overnight. You can attach the windshield with a little white glue or crystal clear and put that into position here are the pieces i had left over. Most of these are from different versions of the kit and some decals that are used for those, so you’ll use all the pieces you need for yours, but these will just be spares well, there you have it.
Your model is complete and with the body in place, i had left it unattached, so it could be removed to see the chassis, and i found that this was easier to assemble than most other dragster kits. Semi completed frame is a big help, because there’s no alignment problems and the front axle is easily mounted to the front, wheels and there’s pretty solid unit in the instructions. The wedges glue optional for the wedge body, but mine had a slight warp, so i glued it all together to straighten that out and also make sure that you know it all came off in just one piece. Now you can lift the whole body off there and see the details of the chassis aside from that, this was an easy builder and i’d recommend it for anyone who wants to begin building dragsters as an excellent kit to start with. So if i were, you i’d buy one and put it on my shelf. We hope you liked this premium step by step, model kit review and so that you don’t miss any more. Please subscribe to our youtube channel by clicking on the icon in the lower right of any of our reviews. You could also find us on facebook or our website. Rightonreplicas.