RC ADVENTURES – HUGE MAXXiS TREPADORS! Installing DDM MEGA TORQUE Gears – Kraken Vekta 5
I know you guys are gon na want to have a look at the original crack invective. Five tires recently, I put on these Maxis trpa door tires onto my one fifth scale. This machine is actually huge. A lot of you guys know the size of a Red. Bull can that's just normal Red Bull right there, so you can see the size of the tires on my vector. Five are now enormous huge huge tires. I love the tread pattern on them. Courses are modeled and officially licensed over the original Maxis tire. I love this machine. This shock right here is actually the size of my forearm it's enormous lengthwise. I guess that's what that's what she said version two of the BART alone pipe on here, which gives me the clearance I needed with the the servo arm, because the other one was quite low, the version one and every time I go to turn it on or Off I'd always get like a little burn on there, so this is the second version beautifully chromed up on a crack and mod engine also Bart alone check it out here it is DDM mega torque gear set 17 19 24 for crack invective 5. So I want to install that today, it's gon na be a bit of a job to get it all apart, but you guys are getting an overall view of how large this vehicle is. I'D love. These bigger tires outside because we've had a ton of snow this year, but the first thing I'm gon na do is undo I've never done this before.
So I have to muddle my way through sorry to all the fifth scale, guys that are out there right now. You must be wondering wherever it is ever it's got some things going on in his personal life right now that are all positive, so he's off doing that. But I definitely wanted to get my gear set into the engine, and I'll just have to pretend that we're making jokes here right EV, I know that's what I was thinking. He'S got a great laugh and, since Everett is always doing the work in the film while I am doing the camera work, this is what the film is going to look lot like today. Okay first thing: I got to do: bomp bomp, ba release the exhaust pipe it's gon na stay attached to the engine and then I'm gon na release the engine from the chassis itself get some wrenches. I think I'm gon na need a ten and an 11 here's. A 10 I just want to test the 10 first, pretty sure that's it a 10 I'll do Kate. The 9 does not work. We'Ll just use the other 10. So I taking the last few days off because I've been actually stuck on gaming, been playing a lot of Xbox lately and making sure you know my radio control hand is up to par keeping it all strong by playing games. What have I been playing mostly resident? Evil in a game called the hunter, which is a hunting simulation game, it's, pretty awesome.
Ok, this will be a little bit of a tricky shot just because we got it careful with the engine here, but because there are 4 screws. I don't have to worry as much wrong been using my shorter killer. Rc bitch here make sure I don't drop it okay, I still have two bolts holding the entire engine on everything. Has locked ID on it read longer than you come on now, there's some reality. Our scene right there, okay, then I'm gon na release the gas lines black on the bottom yellow fuel tubing on top of the carburetor for those that have never seen a big gas power engine like this. Yes, it is similar to a weedeater engine or a chainsaw engine. This does this: is the primer bulb right here, the low and the high setting needles and, of course, the idle needle right here here is the air filter where it comes in down the stack and or through the stack here and into the engine spark plug on Top super simple: the fuel line actually comes in behind the bulb through this yellow tubing and, of course, then the pressure through the black tube to the return and off of there. Normally. What I like to do is to take a small screw one that's thick enough to sit in there and actually kind of gap it off because you can have fuel. If you have any fuel in your tubing, you can have it pouring out and of course, you don't want any gas all over the table in the truck just threading it in simple, in behind the exhaust pipe people always ask me how I get so many different Shots if it's just me filming and the answer is pretty simple: you just stop the camera and you know move it around.
Okay, I'm, using a number nine to hold the bracket in place turns out. I did not need to remove the bracket from the gas tank on this back piece because it had to come out anyway, but that's how I learn right, trial and error planed out the best way. Okay, with the gas tank out of the way you can see the brake disc right here with the drive shaft how it attaches my goal is to remove this engine right here, so we're gon na release this bolt this bolt and that one down here there are Only three mounting holes or screws that I can see here and then I've got my kill, switch on the inside Music inside my battery box I'm just undoing my kill, switch, cable now and awesome, so there is basically the heart of the machine right there. Now I have the opportunity to get in there and clean it up really well for those that are not familiar with how these work here is the clutch spring and the clutch shoes on the outside I'll be able to blow these out. I might even want to get a different type of clutch, but I'll check into that, but yeah there you go pretty cool huh. So what you're looking at now! This is the clutch bail. This is actually where those shoes expand and touch against. This whole end bail. Right here – and this is actually what spins the entire drive line right – it moves back and forward alright.
So there are four screws, one two and then three four I've already taken out three and four right here. I can't get to the setscrew for this driveshaft, except for near the back axle so I'm, going to release this driveshaft and try to get it off. That output drive what a boat with a little coaxing of flathead screwdriver. Oh yeah, there we go. Excuse me, sir. Your driveshaft is showing just so I can get this arm free, hmm, what's the best way to do this. Well, I don't even need to do that. Actually, now that it's separated I can get at the pinion and I can get at the gear I need so this if I were taking this apart any further that would have been unnecessary all right, sometimes when I'm struggling to figure things out. What I'll do is actually look at the new part, so here is the pinion that I'm trying to remove right now, okay, and so, as you can see, if you can, there is a flat piece to this pin that comes out, so this pin must somehow spin To get that out, but how the heck do I hold it, so I can turn that to get out. So many of you are cringing right now, but I do not have a proper pinion tool and this thing was put together at the factory with a ton of Loctite on this pin so I'm, using my my channel locks to get a good grip on that pinion.
Without trying to let it slip Wow, the Loctite is literally oozing. Out of this thing, there is a lock washer on there as well. So no wonder it was difficult to get out, but, as you can see, all the teeth to the pinion are a hundred percent. Fine it's a little wobbly just because the bearings not sitting there right, but now I get to figure out how to separate all this look at how much Loctite is in there. That is amazing. No wonder I could barely budget, but at least it was in there. Nice, safe and no issues now I could go at this all day and really kind of damage this bearing, but why? Because they came out perfectly, if I ever want to put that one back in, I could just grab a new bearing slide it inside the race. On an even way like that, make sure it's fits perfect and replace Music here's, the secondary gearing it just pops in here's. The new one right here, I'm gon na replace that out for the new pinion to ride on making sure that my drive shafts are lined up properly in that center diff centered. If visually looking fine at the moment, okay, I only used a hint of red loctite on the other side same with this side, I'd, rather have a loft set screw or lost grub screw than have to drill out the drive shaft because it was stuck now granted.
I could heat up the red loctite, but that's, not always a guarantee cuz. You normally do that after you've already rounded out one of the heads on there, so heads up gives you an idea how big this truck really is. You know upwards of 50 pounds that's for sure. Okay, I'm, going out with the clutch shoes make sure all the inside is clean of dust. This cleans I have so here is one of the older engine mount screws. You can see all the Loctite and everything in is still in there and if it was red loctite, I could use some heat to burn it off or simply use this wire brush to get into all the threads clean it out. So when I go to remount these screws, it's, nice and smooth – and I can apply some new red loctite to it ever – it would be so proud. Oh and I just realized, one of the screws are showing you how to clean had to go in. Before I put the gas tank back in and see told you, I make mistakes all the time and if ever was here he would say yep. He does all the time. Okay, so before the gas tank goes on, make sure this Center mount screw now I'm, not gon na over, tighten this first one we're gon na basically get it down to right where I get to cinch it in and then I'm gon na screw in the other Ones and basically approach this just like I was tightening the lugs on a tire all right, so it's gon na start this big pickup for ya, but if it isn't one thing it's another I've noticed with these zabbix waterproof servos.
They burn up and they're fairly unreliable for me. That'S been my experience with them like, for example, I'm using a Futaba system. So not a lot of interference. Yes, it works, but okay, jiggle see and it kind of, and so what that's doing is because this is my throttle and brake that jitter in the servo itself is actually causing me an issue, of course, with the engine that's not controlling the gas properly. So what I'm going to do is replace this one with a normal sidewalk circle, pull it out or hopefully, I'll have better luck with this one. I have to do the same thing with the steering servo because after sitting here noticing when I plug the steering servo – and it also goes just to one side this one – I can control the steering servo – I can just going to remove the battery tray. So I can get to the steer user will be here just like that. Steering servo can slide out so much work to get a day of fun in, but I got to tell you guys: it is absolutely worth it when everything comes together and works well. Hence why it's a hobby now, I'm, pretty sure with these giant tires I'm going to need a dual servo going on in here? I think the single servo may not be enough power to turn these giant tires, but time will tell the original vector v did so much better like with the original tires on there with dual servo mount as well: Music Applause, Music.
Now you all think you're gon na get a running video, but not today, I got a lot of tuning to do. Yes, I hope I still get a thumbs up from you guys and all that, pandering that I'm supposed to do here on YouTube comment down below what do you think of the bigger tires? What do you think of the vector 5, now mark of a good storyteller? Is to get you guys to come back so make sure to subscribe click, the notification bell and you guys will be able to see these trpa doors ripping it up. I got to do some tuning up I'm. Thirty, four hundred feet above sea level.