Element RC Gatekeeper Part 2 Electronics and Transmission

One didn’t go so well uh, both uh video, wise and building wise uh. The video didn’t actually turn out the way i would have hoped but live and learn right. So this time around we’re going to do the electronic mounts and the gearbox since there’s not much to do for the electronics mount so right off the bat. We need to decide whether we’re going to go with a shorty pack or a longer pack, as they have both of them in here there’s a shorty box and there’s the standard size box uh. Typically, i would go for a 3s three or four thousand milliamps and that’s a fairly good size battery. So i think i’m gon na go with the standard size battery pack and we’ll see if we need to change it later on uh servo horn is in the same bag and it is uh quite heavy. First steel, servo horn i’ve actually ever seen. So that is pretty cool Music, so now we’re at the servo part uh. I know my servo has already been centered, so i can go ahead and throw the arm on so they want the servo output towards the front of the truck and the servo horn. Also going out towards the front so and it’s, Im grunde, Eine 25 tooth splined set up so you’re going to need a 25 tooth servo, which is pretty common anyways, considering how precise they were with the screws for the chassis. I don’t understand see these three screws are supposed to be for the servo well there’s supposed to be four of this four of this particular screw for the servo, but i got three of these.

I got another flathead and the buttonhead. The buttonhead is probably going to go on the servo, but i don’t understand why i have three of these in one of these should be a mistake. The other four were used for the battery tray. Now they suggest they suggest putting loctite for the servo. Nein, the screw is too long for my servo so i’m going to swap it out for something a bit shorter, so i’m going to go with a with an eight millimeter socket cap. The screw that it came with was a 10 millimeter that’s much better. So seeing as i only have three of these i’ll put the two up front and one in the back Music, so it looks like i’m gon na have to put that piece that i didn’t put in the other day, but that is a pretty freaking tight fit. So let’s put on the piece that i didn’t put on the other day Music, so they give you this 3m tape, so obviously not wide enough for this so i’m going to use my tape, which is a bit wider okay, so once the motor and that’s in Place i’ll be able to solder these on and connect this guy. I don’t know if it’s going to go over the battery or under and we’ll, see afterwards, Musik, all right so on. We go to the gearbox bag. Number four here’s an example of what i meant by a burr causing an issue.

This one has the bur over here and if i try to put it in here, it doesn’t work, because this is supposed to be a tight fit. But if i take it out there, we go fits nicely. Okay. Now i know there are different gearing systems. You can do an overdrive or an underdrive, but we’re gon na do it as per the instructions and then later on, we’ll see if we need it to be anything else right in here, it’s written how many teeth the gear actually is because there’s different ones, this One’S a 53: this one is a 54, and this one is a 52. jetzt. Not only does it say this is the 53, it also says 22., Tut mir Leid, 27, 53, now i’m, assuming that is to match this one here is all these little gears also have different numbers on them, so here they’re asking for the 53. So we’ll start with that. Okay, so now we need the 52 Zahn, just this one here now in this one, you need all right, so you got a bearing there. You get a shim which you will put into the gear and then another bearing on this side and that all gets screwed together. Okay, so two pieces we just made: they go inside one another like so next step. Little idler pins says the 28 tooth get 25 27 Und 28. So that will be this one here and then you need the 27 auf der anderen Seite.

Gut, if you’re holding it like this, das 28 tooth will be on your right, Und die 27 tooth will be on your left and that’s. The way they need to go in, along with the bearing the wider metal plate, goes on the ins on the right. So don’t forget to grease up your gears and anything more than what actually goes on the gears is too much grease. I mean unless you’re trying to completely seal your gearbox with marine grace uh it’s kind of pointless, so let’s get this together. My bearings already inside here, Music now i think i have an issue with that. These screws are too long for my motor, the uh screw holes. Don’T go down deep enough, so i’m gon na have to get some shorter screws for this. So here we have my eight millimeters loosely set it into place, because we’re gon na have to move it after to adjust the the mesh now i’m. The way i’m seeing this is. There is no clutch on this truck, so we basically need to be careful and uh there’s a flat spots here, and you need to match them front to back. Oh, i just realized. The pinion gear is not included. All right let’s go digging through my stuff and find a pinion gear. Okay, so i didn’t find any 18 Zahn, but i have a 17 Zahn, so we’re gon na go with the 17. For now i guess normally, when i’m meshing gears.

Oh tighten these screws just tight enough so that i can move the motor around, but also tight enough that it doesn’t move by itself when you’re turning the spur. So while turning the spur you check if there’s any play. So this is a good amount of play. Turn a little bit check again turn a little bit check again see there’s a bit more play there. Also, Im grunde, i go around the whole spur, maybe even two or three times and check for play now. The reason for this is that uh, the uh spur gear on most cars or rc’s will never be perfectly round or perfectly placed so it’s going to be offset a little bit so there’s going to be one side. So if you adjust it one side nicely. The other side might not be as nice or have the right amount of mesh see that’s, ziemlich gut, see right here. It barely has any, and if i just go over here, it’s got more a bit more and as we get back to the other side, it has a little less again so that’s a pretty good mesh right there we’ll tighten that in place check it again. Im grunde, you go around, make sure it doesn’t bind anywhere and there we go Music, so there we have it for today: uh the electronics, the battery bracket motor transmission uh. I really really like the way this transmission is designed, it’s very easy to take off and swap the gears to make it a straightforward, even distribution, vorne und hinten, or over driving the front or overdrive the rear.

It really depends on how you want to set it up to overdrive the rear. You basically have to turn the transmission around completely, so the front becomes the back, because you, the the way it’s set up, is you always have to have the 28 tooth secondary gear? In the same place, but it’s on that same shaft, es gibt, another gear and that’s, the one that you’ll be changing the gear ratio of uh to be able to change the overdrive or not. I have to say this. Second part of the build went much better and i’m hoping the video reflects that next up is the uh axles.