Some people take this very seriously, while others don’t that’s, why there are so many drag car offerings to satisfy the casual user. The extreme racer and everyone in between the dr 10 isn’t the only way to get started in drag racing too, but it’s one of the best and that’s. Why we’re using it? So what we have are one box stock, dr 10, bereit zum Laufen. We have a dr 10 kit with some upgrades and, Schließlich, a drag race concepts. Pro spec conversion kit build to show off so let’s start with the basics. In order to start drag racing. You first need a car now for the dr 10. You can go with the ready to run or the kit, which is the better route, to take looking at the ready to run first it’s offered with a battery and charger for 400, and this is for the people who are starting out from scratch and have nothing. The second ready to run version does not include that battery and charger, and it cost only 340. Now a couple of things to note the gearing and the suspension on the dr 10 ready to run does not come set up for racing. Statt, it’s set up for more of a street bashing use on 3s. Also, in order to make our car as competitive as possible to maximize its performance, we’re going to need to make some changes and we’re going to need a few other parts.
Ersten, we need to add proper silicone differential fluid to the gear diff to maximize straight line performance. A thick fluid in the range of 200, 000 An 500, 000 cst is recommended and a bottle of that fluid will cost about nine dollars. Zweite, we need to add thicker fluid to the shocks with the rears being most important. Most people are using 80 weight shock fluid in the rear and a bottle of that will cost about seven dollars. Third, we want to swap out the included servo saver for a proper aluminum servo horn. The servo saver is great at absorbing energy when you crash, but it doesn’t track perfectly straight and that’s no good if we’re serious about racing. Statt, we can pick up a b6 series, aluminum horn, was sich um 14. Vierter, we need to change the motor gearing for 2s lipo use since that’s the largest allowed battery for racing, even though the ready to run comes geared for 3s use. The popular fix to this is using the 81 tooth spur gear with a pinion gear between 24 Und 27 Zähne, depending on the conditions, the spur gear and pinion gear will cost you about 13. Fifth, we need new tires. These ready to run tires are pretty good, but we need all the traction we can get new drag tires and wheels just for the rear will cost about 45. Sixth, there is one last thing on this ready to run that a serious racer will not want to be using and that’s the gyro equipped receiver, which is a big old, no no in serious competition.
Statt, you could pick up the team associated xp r4 receiver for about 20 dollars and bind that to the ready to run transmitter. You could also buy a proper programmable transmitter and get rid of the ready to run one altogether, but those will cost anywhere from 150 An 700. Now these six little changes cost 108, and that includes just using the xp r4 non gyro receiver. But with these changes, the car is much better equipped and set up for straight line racing. jetzt, more fine tuning will probably be needed and maybe even some other option parts, but this is an excellent foundation to start with. While you build your skills and get faster now, if you include the price of the car and those extra items, our cost is 440 dollars for the non combo and 507 for the combo. The battery and charger included with that combo are pretty dang good for general rc, but a more powerful racing solution would be choosing the non combo car and then buying a drag car specific battery and battery charger of your own, which we’ll say, is an additional 165. This makes the non combo route more expensive than the combo now, but you do get a more powerful battery and a much more powerful battery charger and both of those are universal rc items that you can use with other cars if you haven’t already be sure to Subscribe for more videos like this, alright let’s see how those ready to run builds, compare to a kit build first, the kit costs 200, but it doesn’t include any electronics body or tires, although wheels are included now.
The nice thing about the kit, Obwohl, is we can hand, select all of the components we want, or we can use the items that we already own, but for this build we’re gon na start from scratch. So let’s add it up. We need a body and a body cost about fifty dollars and requires paint. We need tires front and rear, drag tires, cost about fifty dollars and requires tire glue. We also need a steering, servo so let’s say about fifty dollars for that for a drag motor and speed controller we’re gon na pick. This drag specific eliminator series censored combo from tekin for 320 Dollar. There are plenty of other esc and motor systems that you could choose from. Some are going to be more expensive and some are going to be less. We also need a transmitter and receiver because those aren’t included with the kit so for a hundred and forty dollars. This futaba three pv is a pretty good choice now. Schließlich, we again need a battery and a charger and we’ll use the same numbers for the ready to run at 165 for both so car kit was 200 and we just added another 774 dollars to complete it. For a total of 974 Dollar, but just like the ready to run, we need a few more items to maximize our performance. Ersten, we need thicker shock fluid just like we previously talked about, because the kit only includes 30 Gewicht. Zum glück, the kit does include 500 000 cst diff fluid so we’re covered there, and you only need the one bottle of shock fluid, which is about seven dollars.
Zweite, we want to swap out that dang servo saver for a proper aluminum horn, just like with the ready to run and that’s about 14, so the new total for that kit build is 995 Dollar. Natürlich, depending on the components you pick, you could spend more than that or you could spend less than that. So let’s recap: the rtr combo is the most expensive initial purchase, but ends up being the least expensive overall build. The opposite is true. For the 200 Kit, which requires the most items to complete and ends up being the most expensive, Bauen, but it’s also the most equipped and prepared build for serious drag racing for the kids out there. That may be mowing lawns to save money for rc a thousand dollars seems like a lot of money and that’s. Why that ready to run combo is probably going to be the best starting place for you, because you can slowly upgrade the car over time. There'S! No rush, now a few men out there that may have some extra cash. You need something to do on the weekends. Maybe a thousand dollar investment to get started in drag racing is really not that bad and you have to keep in mind that thousand dollars is when you’re, starting from scratch. People already in the hobby tend to already have a transmitter batteries chargers even steering servos. So the final build price for those people would be significantly less now.
This car belongs to a main employee jonah who started out with the kit and has been adding to it with various upgrades. One of the best upgrades he’s got on the car are the upgraded rear shocks where he has threaded shock body, so he can precisely adjust the spring tension. There are a lot of other upgrades used throughout the car too, with each one being compatible with the ready to run now. This is the a main dr 10, and you wouldn’t know it by looking at it, but it’s a ready to run that we upgraded to this level and it cost us a lot more doing it that way than if we had just started with the kit. Now what’s interesting is the kit and the ready to run car are identical, except for two things. The kit includes 500 000 cst diff fluid and a rear sway bar, but that’s it now, if you’re somebody who isn’t so worried about the price or you really like premium stuff. Gut, then you’re really going to enjoy this next build. This vehicle belongs to amine hobby’s, employee james, who went all out on it, so this build started life as a kit that then received the drag race concepts. Pro spec conversion kit, which replaces the plastic chassis with the carbon, fiber and aluminum bits compared to the plastic chassis. This is a really stiff and rigid setup. James then added more aluminum and carbon accessories, including more threaded.
Shocks like on jonah’s car and james. Even added aluminum wheels, partly for performance and partly for looks. James has made this car his project over the last few months and it easily cost him several thousand dollars. And it’s an excellent example of an extreme build that anyone can make using the dr 10 kit or the ready to run if you’re serious enough about this guys, you can check out everything we talked about with our links down below or check out these videos.