This is going to be a pretty quick one and it’s going to cover this. These are the roll bar lights for the axial scx. 10. 2. 1955. Ford, f, 100. These are available in shapeways, as well as my mini factory, and this bar just as a heads up. This bar is supposed to be there, because what it does is it sets the spacing of the lights, and it also prevents them from individually rotating. Now you are welcome to cut this off if this is unnecessary to you, but just note that this is there for a reason from shapeways you’re going to get the entire set up here. These little pieces at the rear are hinged you’re, going to put a little one millimeter rod right through there, and this will pivot – and here is where you will install a m3 screw you’ll tap this hole here. Can’T see it there you’ll tap that with an m3 bottom tap and just screw that into place and that will retain it onto the roll bar and on the inside. You can glue a five millimeter led you’ll have to cut the legs off and very carefully fish. Some small gauge wire through this hole here at the rear and route the wiring under the body. The first thing that we have to do is go ahead and paint these now i’m, going to paint them in a semi gloss black, because even though i like the whole chrome, look i’m going to do the black, because then this can be painted in chrome, so That the lens that goes over it will really pop speaking of lenses.
These are the lenses that you can also order with it. These are a custom, ampro lens, and they just pop right in here there you go, has a little hella type cat in there. If you can see it now, these are printed and these already actually been clear coated, but these are the ultra detail: plastic from shapeways. So if you do purchase these and have a, i would recommend printing these with a higher end, resin printer. You can see these details here, probably will not survive in fdm painting was completed and i changed my mind. I painted everything in a matte black, which is a color that i used for almost everything. Then i thought you know what these aren’t going to look black. This is kind of a flashy truck, so let’s paint them chrome, so i just masked off the black and then painted the chrome, and this is a rust, oleum chrome that i’ve been using for years and years and years and it really really came out nice. I mean it’s, definitely not chrome, but it’s, not bad, so there’s, where we are next we’re going to install the leds. So i’ll put that down to do that, and i just note that i have an entire video on wiring led. So i won’t get into too much detail here. So i’ve got these three warm white leds and i have three resistors. So these warm white leds are 3.3 volt leds.
These resistors, therefore, are 150 ohm and the power source which is going to be the receiver, is 6 volts. We have to trim off the legs on the diode in order to get them to fit. The long leg is positive, the short leg is negative and in fact, on the diode itself, you cannotice there’s a little flat spot right right where the glare is right there. The problem is it’s. Not that easy to see so i’m going to do is get my black sharpie out and just mark this, and we can wipe it off later. This just makes it more noticeable that’s it next we’ll come in here with the side, cutters and snip off the vast majority of the legs, and i only want about two about two millimeters of the leg: sticking off. Okay, just like that, and next we need to wire it up, i’ve already tinned the wire and i’m going to do the same thing with the legs on the on the diode. Now the thing is, diodes are very easily damaged by too much heat, so you got to be quick, so it’s a little bit there and a little bit there and let it cool off i’ve got this oriented. So the far one or the one furthest from me is negative here is my wire. The wire is 28 gauge. Okay, so we’ll just line these up and that’s it same here as before. There is a hole here on the back side.
You can see that and we’ll take our wires we’ll just slot that right in and pull it out one at a time, and there should be just barely enough room for these wires. Yeah we’ll go right in there. This part here, i’m, not particularly happy about it’s kind of a weird way to install it. But basically, if we look in this slot here, you can see that notch right there on the inside and that will fit the ring on the base of the led let’s bend it down slightly before so. We’Ll bend it in this orientation like this and then just pushing it in it’ll boom right there, that’s in so you’re, probably thinking well that’s not going to stay and you’re right, it’s not going to stay. What you’ll do is just put a dab of super glue at the base and you’re done before you glue it in what i like to do is take a coin cell battery coin cells are usually three volts and just tap it to either side of the wire And just make sure that it works, because that would be kind of unfortunate if you’re getting soldered in glued in put the lens on top and it fails. Okay, we have three m three by five millimeter long screws. These are the retainers that we cut off of the back of the light. Housings let’s put the little screws right there now. These are held in by a little pivot point right here, so you put a little rod in there and that swings open.
That rod is designed to be a one millimeter diameter rod. Also, all of these holes here have been drilled out. There are 2.5 millimeter holes and then they were tapped with an m3 bottom tap, so starting here, we’ll just drop in the retainer. Take our one millimeter bit now. I actually didn’t have to drill any of these out the rod just kind of went in so hopefully that’ll work that way with you as well. Just wiggle that and there we go i’ll, put a little dab of super glue there. That’S it that’ll open and close just like that before we install this, we do want to install the lens. Now the lens does come on a separate sprue. Obviously these are going to be printed clear. Quite a lot of detail on these. They have the little marshall cat on them and they’re a pretty generic and pro part as i use these lenses on quite a few housings. A little lip right here, we’re just going to use some model glue, not super glue, because the santa acrylate will cause these to potentially get all foggy. So you do want to use a high quality model glue. This is just some pretty ancient liquid cement. Okay, so we got our lens just pop it on in there, and the little ribs will allow you to align it if need be. These are not keyed, because the other applications for these can go in multiple orientations and now for the installation, so i’ve gone ahead and loosened it’s pretty hard to see here, but i have loosened this screw on the body.
The wiring here is also longer on the far end, because i want the wiring to come this way and then down this pole. All of the little ribs are aimed downward and we’ll just slot them straight on in, like that, and next we’re just going to separate this just a little bit and that should slot in same there you go that’s in and there we go. They are all in now now that rod that holds the three together is what it’s gon na help them be equally spaced and now they’re all in okay. It is flexible, however, though, so you know, if you push on this one here, that one’s not going to move at least if you push on a little bit, if you shove it way back, it’s very likely that rod might snap off. Of course, it depends on the kind of material that you use to print it okay, so next it’s going to be a fair bit of fun to route all these wires in a appropriate fashion, so i’m going to run these down here and slide them right between The bed and the body so on the flat side of the body, not on the sharp edge of this silver painted plastic, which i think before we do, that we probably should screw them down, so they don’t move around from the side. You just want to ensure that they are in fact perfectly vertical or even aiming slightly downward we’ll take our five millimeter long phillips screws and just line that right on up and when it stops.
That’S enough solder, the 150 ohm resistors to the positive leads and now we’re going to go ahead and cover them with some heat shrink, so that this area here doesn’t come into contact, and these three will all be bridged to a single wire, all right. The negative wires are wired up, so the positive with the resistors and then i’ve already got a pigtail right here for the loom i made for the rest of the car and now we’re done well with everything. Reassembled let’s go ahead and turn the lights on and hopefully they work nice. Oh, that looks good i’m, a huge fan of the uh, the warm white they look really yellow here, but in person they just look like white. Looking pretty good here, i think well there. It is folks, i hope you enjoyed this upgrade it’s. You know probably not a good idea for a basher, but if someone’s got a night running rig or you just like that, look, i know i’m a huge fan of it. Then this might be the way to go. Thank you all. So much for watching and we’ll see you next time.