com for those of you who have been requesting an eachine, e160 micro, collective pitch rc heli review today is your lucky day. I want to thank banggood for sending it, so we can have a proper detailed look at it. Go for a test flight i’ll. Give you my thoughts on this thing as usual. I will have product links below in the description, so you can check it out yourself, see current pricing that type of thing these come in two basic formats or versions. One is a ready to fly version which comes with eachine’s little six channel computerized radio or they come in a bind to fly version, which is what i’ve got here and out of the box. They will pair up to any radio supporting futaba’s ss protocol. So if, for example, you’ve already got an xk x6 radio, i think a lot of people might be getting this heli after an xk, k110 or k120. You can certainly bind it to this. In fact, the eachine six channel computerized radio is very similar to xk’s. It’S got the same menu layout and everything. The radio just looks a little bit different if you’ve got a futaba sfhss protocol. Radio, no problem, you’re good to go i’m going to be pairing this one to the radio master tx16s, of course, through the multi protocol module that this has built in now. This thing has taken forever to get here: it’s been in shipping for over six weeks, three of those weeks it was held up at canada, customs, who knows what nefarious activities were going on there, but it the box has been beat to hell.
Thankfully, the heli is in good shape, it’s well protected in this vacuum form, along with the parts and the helicopter itself and a manual so let’s uh dive into this. So with the bind to fly version we get the helicopter. Of course, it looks very nice we’re going to look at this in detail in just a bit comes with an owner’s manual, it’s, pretty poor, like any of these chinese direct little micro helis. You know it gives you some really generic pitch and throttle curves. You can certainly do much better to set the heli up to your flying style. Probably the most useful page in this manual is going to be the exploded parts view. So you can see how stuff goes together and your parts numbering so you know which parts to order when you bust something up as far as spare parts go. What do we get here now? This version came with uh. I got the three battery version, so it comes with two lipos there’s already one installed in the heli as it ships – and these are a 700 milliamp hour, 2s pack. Charger is a little usb charger now i’m. Always skeptical of these things, i don’t trust them. As far as their charging capability do they overcharge under charge? Do they balance up fine, so we’re gon na get a pack charging right away, so it’s, hopefully finished charging by the time we’re done looking at the heli when you plug it into your usb little red power indicator comes on it.
Charges through the balance port it’s. Just a 2s balance plug on there plugs in and there’s a little green flashing led indicator in the usb charger. So when that’s done, we’ll check the voltage of the cells and see just how well this does so our two extra packs. What else do we get in here, two spare main blades, which is nice. These are a really nice uh blade, they’re, a nylon carbon composite nice and strong nice and stiff comes with one spare main gear spare tail. Rotor blade comes with several screwdrivers don’t there’s, a phillips. What are these looks like really tiny torx drivers? I can’t see there being any torx screws on this thing. I guess we’ll find out and what are these some kind of little end? Caps, no idea looks like they might. Would you fit those over your canopy mounting grommet pegs that doesn’t make any sense but they’re in there and a 1.5 millimeter allen key now a lot of people may know this heli is very similar to the k130. I did a review on the k130 and i did not like this helicopter at all. I didn’t like the way it flew and there were several reasons for that. The coreless direct drive tail motor, the biggest issue. You know this is getting up in size where it’s just too big it produces too much torque for a little cordless motor to compensate tail hold on this thing was its weakest point did not like the color of this.
It was very hard for me to see, of course, that’s subjective, but blue and red. It looks black to me at times in the air, whereas this is nice and bright. It’S got this nice blue metallic, with this kind of this lime, yellow green and really easy to see. The k130 is smaller, let’s actually size this up. If we want to size this, by blade size, let’s go from mounting bolt hole to end of blade tip it’s about 150 millimeters. So if you want to be precise, this is actually a 150 size heli. If we want to size it by conventional blade length, it is a little bit longer as well and, of course, the big advantage here is the brushless tail motor, so we’re going to have much better hold with this. Hopefully, i’m, not a fan of the wiring being exposed through the bottom here that’s easy to damage. I don’t see why this isn’t mounted in such a way that the output wiring from the motor goes straight up the boom to me. They should be able to design this motor mount, so the output wire is going right up. The boom end plastic tail. Fin nice and flexible shouldn’t break it’s got this little horizontal stabilizer fin on it not needed at all it’ll just twist and bend around. Probably just want to take that off it’s not going to add anything to the helicopter. Let’S take the canopy off again same layout as the k130 we’ve got a 120 degree ec cpm swash plate you’ve got your pitch and aileron servos at the front.
Elevator servo at the back, they are proper metal geared servos a lot harder to strip the servo gears. Much bigger, brushless motor it’s actually got ventilation in it. So we would expect this brushless motor to have better cooling. The gearing is even bigger. It’S got bigger teeth so less likely to strip out gears electronics look fairly similar there’s the sfh ss protocol receiver it’s got a pcb antenna, so it’s not just a loose little 2.4 gigahertz quarter, wave antenna wire hanging out the imu or the fly wireless stabilization, the Gyros and the accelerometer are under this little cover there’s our bind button right on the side and what’s really neat with these is you can also bind them to spectrum receivers or s, bus receivers, there’s, an s plus input and a spectrum dsm input plug this board. On top by the way is isolated, with the silicone isolation dampening rubbers on all four quadrants. Your main brushless motor esc is in the middle here’s. The wiring going to the brushless motor you’ve got little bullet, pin connectors so that’s nice to see, and then the brushless tail motor esc and mixer board down below just going over the wiring real, quick, the lower esc for the brushless tail motor here are the three Wires that are feeding the motor coming out of it there’s just a little plug here that you can unplug if you ever had to replace the esc or the tail motor wiring air.
All the wires are nice high flex. Soft silicone wire management is nice. The tail motor wiring is bundled up with the servo wiring it’s held with this little zip tie and then it’s all held in place under this little bracket. That’S part of the frame, keeping the wires safely away from the outrunner motor. The main mast is three millimeter, solid, stainless, so very strong. The main gear is held to the main mast, both by a locating flat and a screw, so no chance that the gear will cam out on the shaft like lots of little micros. The head is also held to the mast with a through screw it’s behind one of the washout arms by the way, the washout arms there’s, where our torx heads are those are the only two i can find on the entire helicopter it’s strange why they would use Torques on the washout arms and nowhere else why these wouldn’t be phillips or 1.5 no idea. The torx screws are not only holding the wash out arms to the head, but they’re also pinching the head around the mast, it’s good to see and no slop at all. When i’m twisting the main blade here, we don’t have any linkage slop between the blade grip and the swash plate. There’S no swash plate, slop there’s, no slop in the push rod from the swash plate down to the servo arms and there’s no servo gear, slop everything’s. Nice and tight, the 130s landing struts were horribly weak.
These are much stronger, so it’s a much better helicopter than the k130 and not that much more expensive carbon tail boom. Of course, just like the k130 but, like i said it was longer. Oh and one other thing on this right now, while i’m thinking of it on the k130, i i had a video on this i’ll, throw a little link where i did a repair on this. The blade grip bearing preload was way too tight. These were really notchy, and that was part of the problem for the flight characteristics of it so i’m, just going to take a blade off first, these are really loose by the way suggest they be tightened i’m. Probably even going to put some blue loctite on them, because these are going to back off in flight from the vibration that’s weird there’s, a little blade spacer on the top, a little blade, spacer washer. So don’t forget to put that back in. If you take your blades off i’m, just going to pop this link off real quick, very nice, not notchy at all, no bearing preload in there so much better than the k130. And, of course, all metal had, which is nice to see and it’s actually got washout arms it’s, not a dfc design like most micros are it’s, got little washout arms, pretty neat and full metal swash plate. Of course, if you’re curious what the flying weight is of the e160, if you live in a country with nonsensical and overreaching rc flying restrictions, we’re sitting at 155, 156 grams about 5.
4 ounces here in canada, anything under 250 grams is good to go. So the transport minister will be happy here’s to you mark garno, our lipo battery appears to be finished. The green led has gone solid, so let’s see how well this charged up cell one four point: oh horrible, so sell one four point: two two volts sell two four point: two five garbage should never be going over 4.2 volts, so we are going to be charging The other two up with a good old computerized charger that we know works properly. If you’re wondering what battery size is, if you might already have some 2s packs that would fit this thing. These are about 53 millimeters in length about 22.6 millimeters in width and about 14.7 millimeters in thickness. I don’t know if i mentioned it, but they come with nice. Little amass xt 30s on them, so that’s nice to see a nice quality connector a little tip with these batteries. When you go to slide them in the battery tray, the beauty with this design is, you can have the canopy on you. Don’T have to take the canopy off to change the batteries, but i found these batteries. The edge of them gets hung up on the edge of the battery tray. Here it was really difficult to slide them all the way forward. I basically had to take the canopy off to kind of pull up on the tray, as i slid it forward.
That’S. The only way i could get the battery in and all you have to do to alleviate that problem. These have got a really sharp edge on them when they’re new just take the edge and roll it on a table top just to create a little radius on the edge so it’s, not as sharp and then that radius easily passes by that lip of the battery Tray and then you just slide it full forward. It’S got a little end plate stop, so you can’t slide it too far forward and mess up your center of gravity let’s just see how the cg is on this thing. I haven’t checked that yet so i’ll fire the canopy on just balance, this quick and dirty and just the slightest bit nose heavy nothing wrong with that. Though, that’ll fly fine, the e160 bound up to the radio master here, no problem again using sfhss protocol just thought. I’D show a couple of things here: it uses futaba’s channel mapping a aetr, channel mapping, so aileron is channel 1 or cyclic. Roll elevator or cyclic pitch is channel 2. Channel 3 is throttle. Channel 4 is tail rotor or anti torque. Channel 5 is what type of stabilization mode you’re in we’ll get into that in just a bit and then channel 6 is your collective pitch and back to channel 5. If you notice, the little red led is flashing here. That just means it’s in normal gyro mode.
So no artificial self level help and when you’ve got channel, five turned to out full output. The red light goes solid, meaning that it’s in self level help you’ve got the is turned on, which has an instructor can’t stand that it sets most people back. They don’t learn the feel and the thing is you can do almost the exact same thing with the tame setup, but you will learn the feel of the heli. You don’t need that artificial help to have a tame helicopter. You can do it strictly through setup and speaking of setup. I’Ll just show this real quick just go to midpoint on our pitch curve, so i had to change channel 6 the centering position of channel 6’s output, so we’re producing exactly zero degrees of collective. If you fold the blades back, you can determine it that way, but the e160 also has these little hash marks on the blade grips that line up to the hash marks on the head and when they line up like that, you know: it’s, producing zero degrees of Collective and they even the outside of the hash mark you’ll notice, there’s two bars on that hash mark you want to set your collective range, so the outside mark is lining with the other outside mark, hopefully that’s showing up, and if you’re wondering what that is. I actually set this up with my wedge pitch gauge, which i go over in my setup and tips ebook, but at full collective we’re producing 12 degrees of positive collective at full, negative, minus 12 degrees of collective pitch.
Now you certainly don’t have to fly with that range. You can fly with a nice tame minus two to plus nine collective range for general or scale flight. If you want to fly light, acro maybe run minus 10 to plus 10 collective range. Of course, if you want to run 3d run the full plus minus 12 degrees of collective and at midpoint on the pitch curve, servo arms are centered, swash plate is nice and level. Washout arms are level and we’re producing zero degrees of collective and then just confirming our cyclic is working forward. Cyclic rearward right left going low rates. You can see much tamer output on cyclic compared to high rates, so lots of ways to set up a heli to suit your flying style and speaking of flying let’s get outside okay, so we’re going to try to show all three setups that i’ve got here. This is my tame setup, minus one to plus nine collective range, fifty percent on dual rates. This is maximum, stick, throw on cyclic that’s how tame it is can’t get into too much trouble. There do tail, rotor, there’s the yar rate at 50 percent on tail Applause. So you can certainly fly it, nice and gentle if you want to – and this is in 3d mode, just the three gyros turned on none of that self level. Crap turned on get a nice fluid feel for the machine, and even this color is hard to see.
I just don’t understand why manufacturers on small helicopters don’t give us nice bright, contrasting colors, yellows oranges, fluorescents. This is certainly better than the k130. It flies better it’s not as nervous and that color is way better than the red and black or red and blue. But even this is difficult to see. I don’t know if you can see this on camera tail rotors a little bit nervous here, just a little bit, but its hold is good. It’S not blowing out, of course, we’re in tame mode let’s go to idle up one here’s, plus minus 10 collective and 90 percent on cyclic dual rate, quite a bit more reactive. On cyclic. This is 90 dual rate. Tail i’ve got 75 percent dual rate, so there’s. The yaw rate at 75. do some pitch pumps here: can’t get that tail to blow out it’s fighting hard, but can’t do it do some gentle loops quite nice forward. Quite nice timing on micros is critical. Roll wasn’t, bad and now we’ll go into full 3d. So i’m running a hundred percent power, oh in the uh, my idle up one. I was running eighty percent power, so here’s a hundred percent hundred percent dual rates there’s our yaw rate – a hundred percent oh and collect this responsive and i’m running plus minus 12 degrees of collective here. Do some pitch pumps, yeah too hot for me, but can’t get the tail to blow out and there’s a hundred percent on our cyclic rate, so you can see it’s just crazy, try to do a loopy here.
Collective management is critical and it’s just too aggressive. For me, at plus minus 12., there was super. I thought i could get the tail to blow out there, but not a chance so that’s too hot. For me, i, like my idle up one settings of plus minus 10 degrees, collective and 90. On dual rate. I find this is a nice sport, setup, Music and, of course, nice and tame is even better. So we will go in taking the battery a little lower than i’d like to here and give you some final thoughts. Oh and out of the box, set up pretty nice um. Let me just get it into a hover here: we’ve got a bit of a breeze, actually quite a strong breeze kicking up right now, but that is hands off yeah wind’s pushing us all over, but not bad for a little micro Applause. I’Ll give you my final thoughts on this thing, pros and cons that type of thing, Music, right, let’s, wrap this up. The eachine e160 is a great flying little micro, heli, certainly better than the k130. The improved tail hold performance alone makes it better considering the e160 is only around 30 dollars more than the k130, and for that you are getting a proper brushless tail motor metal gear, servos, stronger, landing, struts, better main motor anecdotally, no blade grip bearing preload issues and Subjectively easier color scheme to see, but not by much, i really think, it’s a no brainer.
This is a better value machine out of the two, as we saw, the e160 was mechanically well set up out of the box. It had more than enough power and it flew well with tame to insane settings. Tail hold was impressive with an acceptable amount of acceleration and deceleration thrust delay. You know it’s not as good as some higher end brushless tail motor helis like the omp, but certainly not bad. My e160, as you may have seen, had light tail shivering, but not overly noticeable, and it was not that apparent when running at higher head speeds. As you can see, there’s still no slop in the linkages or servos after a dozen or so flights i’ve put on it. If you’re curious about the flight times, i was getting out of the packs i’m, not taking them any lower than an 80 percent discharge. State, of course, my tame normal flying setup is giving a solid seven minutes, which is very good on a 2s powered heli of this size running 700 milliamp hour packs, so the e160 must have a fairly efficient power system. My mild sport flying setup gives a solid five minutes of flying time and my full 3d 100 power setup gives a solid three minutes of flying time. I noticed, after all those flights, the main brushless motor wasn’t that warm at all and the brushless tail motor barely gets warm again pointing toward an efficient power setup. So the only main complaint i have with the e160.
You know not taking the condition of the box and shipping time into account, because those are both no doubt due to the pandemic chaos, but the biggest letdown is the poor performance of the included usb charger, as we saw it overcharged. Both cells uh by a fair amount, definitely enough to shorten their lifespan and they weren’t even balanced. You know, i would think most people who are getting a heli like this already have a good computerized charger. But if you don’t uh, they are a must have item in this hobby sooner or later, and now maybe a good time to pick one up while tossing the eachine one where it belongs in the garbage. That, of course, is anecdotal to the usb charger i got, but more times than not i’ve found these usb lipo chargers to be completely hit and miss uh feel free to leave a comment below on your usb chargers. Performance. If you get an e 160 be interesting to know if they all overcharge or again, if it’s just hit and miss, i would of course like to see a much brighter color scheme for a better visual presence, because micro, size, helis get small fast, but that’s a Subjective point all in all very impressed with the e160, and i expect it will become one of my favorite yard flyers.