BMR-X 1/24 RWD Drift RC | Test Drive & Building Tips
This is just a short review and building tips. I want to spend more time with it and make sure that my fix will hold up, so the full review will come later now. Let’S start with some driving footage, Applause, Applause, so so Applause. So i like this car a lot. It is the second best out of the box handling for me. You can just build it according to the manual and it’ll work. It is so controllable and easy to hold the slide in case. You are wondering what is my number one? It is the xrxdpa ranking aside. This bmr is a great car with very interesting design. It is the only one 224 scale car with front motor layout. At this moment, this car seems to be designed with perfect tolerance in mind i’m, sure that they have tested it in a cad software or in a simulation, but that is never going to happen in the real world where we are living in. I suggest you prepare some m2 screws and washers before building it, and these are some building tips. I can give you first make sure the steering can move freely. For example, i have a problem with this tube. It is supposed to fit in here with the top sticking out a bit like this, so when i tighten the screw down, the arm can swing freely. Unfortunately, the tolerance was not perfect when they machine it. So, on the left side, the tube just dropped through the hole and if i tighten the screw down it lock this arm and it can’t move.
So i had to replace the screw with a longer one. So the arm can move next. The steering pole can come loose very easily, so i suggest you use a tiny bit of thread lock to secure it next check the clearance on the servo arm. If this pole rubs against the top plate, then you’ll need to insert some m2 washers on the bulkhead under the top plate. Otherwise the servo will get stuck and you can potentially break it. You’Ll need to tap all bow every linkage for that. You’Ll need m2 and m1.6 tapping heads. If you don’t have the linkages, they can form a correct line like this and they will break eventually. The final drive ratio is higher than other cars, so you’ll need a fast motor. I recommend you to start at 5500 kv. The gear mesh is difficult to set because you’ll have to take the whole motor mount out to tighten the motor without the spur gear attached to it. So try and remember the motor position before you take it out to tighten the motor down. If you don’t have m3 washers or shims with three millimeter inner diameter do not make the wheels the lowest offset, they won’t work either at the front or at the back, because the wheels will rub against the steering arms and the ball caps. I made this mistake at the front, so i have to use thicker bearings and a lot of shims to push the wheels out more than one millimeter.
The middle one is the lowest offset you can do without using any shims. The main weak point of this car is the rear axle the drive cuffs can break if they are under stress or being pushed out from the inside. So first you’ll need to adjust the dial stopper on each side, so the right height isn’t too high. I also cover it with shrink, tube and glue it in to hold it together. This is a five millimeter string tube and the glue is the yellow. Yoohoo glue apply the glue lightly, so it doesn’t rip and go into other parts of the car. You can use any tube with six millimeter inner diameter to cover the drive cups, so they won’t break. I choose to use string tube because it is what i have and because it is light, so it won’t stress out the gearbox and i’ll wait and see if this can prevent the rear axle from breaking. Finally, this car is wide, so choose a body that is wide enough for it. Something with a wide body kit or a fender should be fine, as you can see here, my skyline is much too narrow for it, but i’ll try and make it work. So this should be fun and that’s pretty much it before i go.