Rc hammer jaw performance rock crawler, build project. Now this project has been in the works for almost two years. Now and it’s winter outside right now, so it gave me a good time to finish different bits off and i just finished painting the brand new body for it. So it’s ready to go so i’m going to go through everything that i’ve done to this vehicle over the past two years, so without further ado, let’s get right into it: okay, so to start off just with the aesthetic body i’m going to do that. First. That way, i can take it off and show you different elements, because it’s going to be going back and forth i’m, not exactly going front to back anyway, starting off with the body. It is a clear force, rc hammer jaw body with tamiya paint, so it’s got gunmetal gray, backed with black. Then it’s got black with a spastics dull coat over it, and it also has a hint of red, backed with white, so that combination of colors came out really well, it looks fantastic and then in the interior. This is an rgt interior panel, which is the exact same panel i’ve, just a different color i’ve painted the seats white. This is tested flat, white and then testers gloss red for these back supports and their gloves i’ve gone in as well and put in a axial scale steering wheel painted that white as well and i’ve. Also, given it an axial scale, shift, stick setup and i’ve used a white paint marker on that moving around the back.
This is axial gloss silver, and these are the axial scale, uh bins that come in an scx, 10 2 kit and i’ve just painted them red. So that’s all the main things about the body. I did use some duct tape here to kind of make it look like the wrap that real rock bouncers use, but anyway, let’s move on to the chassis and the rig itself, all right. So, with the body off, there is quite a lot going on so i’m, just gon na go kind of in order from what i put on at the beginning. So, as i said, it’s a force rc hammer jaw. However, i bought it under the rgt brand. So this is technically officially called an rgt rock hammer, however it’s the exact same chassis, exact, same design as the force rc hammer johnsons i’m, using the force rc body that’s. Why i’ve called it that and there’s? Really no rgt specific stuff left on it. So the first thing i did was put in an rc4 wheel, drive light kit. So that gives you headlights right here and tail lights right here and then it also has a little control box, that’s hidden in here and a little button that can control the headlights or turn all of them off a great kit, inexpensive and very nice to have So moving on the next thing i did was upgrade the center shafts because i don’t like plastic center shafts. So if we flip it on inside here, these are hot racing: aluminum slider shafts.
These are meant for an axial scx, 10 ii, but they are also work with a wraith, and so the length fits just fine. For those of you wondering this, isn’t overextended it’s still got quite a bit left in the and these definitely up in durability, and i have never, you know even had a risk of breaking these, so very, very good drive shafts. The next thing on the list is the homes, hobby, crawl, master expert. Now technically i put this in last, but that was because i was doing another project there. It is right there, homes, hobby, crawl, master expert, 13, turn 540, fully rebuildable motor. It is a fantastic motor, extremely smooth. Five slot skewed armature definitely recommend this, while we’re talking about electronics might as well go through the rest of them. This is a hobby wing, a quick run, 1080 crawler esc, a fantastic esc can do 3ds, brushed nothing bad to say about fully programmable. You get a program program card with it, yeah very, very good, esc right in there. That is a pro tech glitch buster. I did a video about that recently. That is to help with my four wheel steer just because they are high voltage servos and they can take up a lot of power. Speaking of the servos, they are high, wonder 20 kg steering servos. They are high voltage with an operating voltage of 7.4 volts or 6.6 volts full metal geared a decent speed, obviously 20 kilograms per centimeter of torque.
I absolutely love these servos. I have never broken one. I actually use this same exact servo in this axial cx 103 and in this axial unimog, so very, very good servos. They even work great with these very big 2.2 tires for receiver it’s, a spectrum srs 6000 receiver avc compatible. I don’t use the abc, obviously because this is a rock crawler, but it is six channels which is great for all the lights that i’m running on here, and it binds up to my spectrum dx5c just moving right along these are not the stock axles um. For those of you with the key, and i you will notice, these are axial rate 2.2 axles much much better than the stock axles. The stock axles on the force, rc hammer jaw are pretty awful uh. The grade of the axle shafts is pretty bad, and on top of that, the axles break right at the steering knuckle all the time and the parts aren’t exactly easy to get to. So i swapped over to wraith axles, front and rear. Since i am doing the four wheel steer and they have worked beautifully for me and since it’s, actually you get plenty of extra parts, you get an extra bit of width out of it as well. So this is slightly wider than the standard force rc version, but they work absolutely fantastic. Moving over from the axles the tires these are proline. Hyrax 2.2 tires in g8 compound.
They have the prone line: do 2.2, xl, dual stage: foams in them, so they’re rock hard on the side, but then they’ve still got some squish on top and then these are some cheap chinese b locks that i found. I think they’re knockoff ssd deluxe, but i cannot be sure, but i think you can find them on amazon by rc lions, but absolutely lovely rims. They work just fine full aluminum come with these. Nice little covers for the wheel nut and they are, you know: full bead locks with stainless steel hardware, so very very nice setup here, the high racks, obviously very very nice, tire tons of grip and they won’t ever wear on you to steer these big tires. I had to upgrade the steering arm because the plastic steering arm just wasn’t doing the trick. So this is the hot racing aluminum steering arm. This is actually the one that comes in a big kit that has like a bunch of diff covers and stuff. I didn’t get that i bought this off of a friend that didn’t need the steering arm and that’s front and rear in the rear. I’Ve got a red one, just because i couldn’t find another black one and i think the red looks cool and it kind of gives you that taillight esque look so now onto some of the lights that i’m, bringing i know, i’m bouncing around everywhere, but it’s. Just how i have it written down so right in here i’ve got these little uh.
I think they’re supposed to be headlights they’re by g made, but i’ve rigged them up to be underglow lights, uh, so four or two on each front and back and then i’ve got them rigged up to this little tamiya on off switch uh, so that i can Turn them on and off just because in the daytime they don’t really make sense to be on and, in my opinion, that’s just wasting battery. This thing gets great battery life by the way i’ve gone three hour crawling sessions without them dying before so absolutely fantastic battery life yeah, those are those lights and then on the body. I have this little wire rigged up here and those go into lights in the roof, and so it lights up the interior and that just plugs into a little thing. That’S right there, so yeah that’s a fun little addition to the lights on this moving over. Here. These are some aluminum shocks. I found off of amazon since i needed such big shocks. I didn’t really want to spend the extra money for like proline shocks, so these are by yeah racing. They haven’t had any issues with them: they’re 110 millimeter shocks, uh, yeah, no leaking problems and i’m running uh traxxas emax springs, sorry with the same seat, cups and yeah, and then i drilled a new hole in the chassis to mount them just because of the way I’Ve got my suspension set up. I want it nice and angled to get some serious suspension flex moving right along um on the front.
I’Ve got some axial scale d hooks got these off front they’re, just the plastic ones, they’re, not the nice, aluminum ones, but that’s. All right for something that you know, gets scraped up and then i’ve got a little liquid, rubber and metallic red spray paint on them just to make them look a little bit extra nice and then moving into the transmission. This is an rgt transmission. However, the axial gears fit into it so i’ve put in the axial scx 10 uh steel transmission, gears all three gears and then i’m also running a rp or a robinson racing uh steel pinion gear, because the stock brass one broke or like stripped, which yeah that’s. Why you you go steal for the pinion gear, so now, if we move in here, hopefully you guys can kind of see right in here. Those are the axial steel, cvd drive, chests i’ve got those front and rear to replace the dog bones, um, not as much as a boost in durability, even though these are beefier much better boost in performance, though just at those sharp turning angles. It’S nice to have those cvds working for you and then right up front here. This is a dsm, integrated off road recovery system, so i’ve cut a hole in the bumper and i’ve got the hook coming through here, so it pulls out and it’s this bungee cord. So it pulls out and it rigs. So it goes down here down the middle, and then it goes all the way through and around here, it’s, very, very interesting design, and it works very well if you don’t want to use a winch, especially because i’ve got all these other electronics and i couldn’t really Fit a winch on this rig, so the dsm integrator recovery kit worked very well now.
You may have noticed this really cool license plate that i’ve got here. This is by rc plate shop and you can get them in any text. You want any format you want. I’Ve got mine in idaho, um yeah and you can get them in different sizes. You get them in tenth scale and in the tentacle ones. You can get them in metal as well, and then in plastic. You can get eighth scale 24th scale up to fifth scale. I believe so very nice they’re pretty inexpensive right there and then over that i’ve got this 3d printed uh plate cover just to make it look a little bit nicer. I designed that i didn’t really buy it from anywhere moving over to the back real, quick uh. The stock um i don’t even know what you’d call it separator. I guess was pretty weak, so i put in an axial scx 102 one. This is from a unimog kit. So just did that to add a little bit of extra durability, because the old one wasn’t that great now right here these are the ssd aluminum lower link mounts for the axial wraith they’ve got two extra mounting points up here that i’m, not using they’re fantastic mounts And i’ve got them on all four spots and then right next to them, i’ve got the ssd aluminum upper mounts, so you may be able to see right. There i’ve got this on both axles. You can kind of see in there.
That is the aluminum upper mount. Much stronger and a little bit lighter weight as well, and that helps you know the servo mount bolt in and now i’ve got all my links connected to a metal, uh piece which makes it much much nicer and then right here you may be able to see In there slightly there’s a little disc break in there, this is by race, star or a track star. Sorry, they’re, 12 millimeter hexes that have these little scale disc brakes and they bring the wheelbase in a little bit. Just because i didn’t like how it was like extremely wide, then moving over underneath i’ve got this axial scx 102 skid plate reason being it’s got a bunch of crevices um on the other side that you can fill with liquid gravity, and i did that conversion to Bring some weight lower down, saw that trick on a main hobbies. Very nice trick helps bring. The center of gravity under here might as well. Take a look. These are some steel skid plates that i found don’t know what brand they are. I think they’re again knock off ssd, but they look amazing and they protect all of this area underneath the axle and gives it a flat edge. So the whole point of this, as you saw, i bent these links to give it higher ground clearance. The idea is so this can slide over things a lot better and obviously i haven’t taken out yet they’re still perfectly unscratched and then also, as you can see, stainless steel screws on almost everything up here.
I didn’t bother because those aren’t going to really be in the water, but this is the rc screws, stainless steel kit for the axial wraith, so very, very nice setup. I love the stainless steel screws, they’re, absolutely fantastic! Then the last thing that i did are these ck auto 7 gram, steel, wheel, weights, so they’re seven grams, each one quarter of an ounce and you can stick them on pretty much everywhere. These little cubes, so i’ve put in a couple up in the front and like in the skid plates just to bring some more weight down low, especially because this rig has such a heavy roll cage. I wanted to make sure that as much weight as possible was lower as low down as possible, because this is a rig that’s focused mainly on performance, um and then one more thing i wanted to point out. I’Ve got these bungee cords that are wrapped around. This is kind of like what exo cage darcy did with the dsm uh recovery strap on the capra. These are like outpost, camping, uh, bungee cords, just like general purpose. Camping bungees and i’ve got one wrapped around and a little bolt to keep them underneath the servo and that just helps lower the suspension a little bit and it makes the handling surprisingly nice um. Other things to note. I cut down the battery tray. This used to be a full length battery tray, and then i cut it down so that it accommodated a shorty pack.
I moved these mounts these used to be on the inside move them to the outside, so that the servo can fit through just fine. I already mentioned i drilled new shock mounting holes, and i also brought this forward quite a bit. There used to be maybe an inch and a half of space between this tray and the spur gear, and i brought all of that in so that this servo had extra room to move so i’m going to plug in a battery and show you how all the Lights, work all right, so i’ve turned off all of the set lights and stuff. So here the rc4 will drive headlights. So you can see you got two in the front and you got the two in the rear for taillights. So now, if i switch onto this tamiya on off switch now i’ve got the underglow lights, so these two are on lighting up this axle they’re, not really as functional as much as they just look cool, and you know they light up the axle a little bit. So here’s the front so very nice. Looking so now, let’s take the body plug that in i’ll. Show you how the interior lights look all right. So, with the interior lights plugged in via that little wire, you can see it lights up the inside where the drivers are, and i think that just looks cool. You know it just adds a little bit of extra nice detail and you know all together when it’s you know at night.
It does look very awesome all right so before we sign off. I just wanted to show one last thing: one mod that i did to the body you see right here in the roll cage, i’ve put in three allen keys, that is a 2.5 2 and 1.5 millimeter hex driver and then hidden up in here. I’Ve also got a t wrench, and this is just kind of emergency trail tools, um, because you know sometimes you’re away from your car or if you didn’t, bring any tools at all i’ve had that happen to me before i went out. One time got all the way to the crawling spot and then found out that my pinion gear was loose. Couldn’T go back to fix it, so i i was stuck you know, without being without being able to crawl that day, which is a bit of bummer. So it’s nice to have those emergency tools right there anyway, guys that’s gon na, do it for the video. Hopefully you enjoyed.