Now i know on the m9a959 that there’s no oil in them, but you can they’ve got seals in so you just add oil and you’ve you’ve got oil fill shock. It does come out. It does leak out over a period of time, but it’s not much of a hassle to keep topping them up no problem at all. Now i had these apart initially to do the same and there is no oil seals in them at all and just like some little um nylon, uh washers bushes, so hopefully, Aujourd’hui, i’ve managed to get hold of some very tiny little o rings and we’re going to Try and convert them to be oil filled, so hopefully, by the end of the video won’t. Have any of that nonsense anymore. Droite. Premières choses: first i’m going to get the shocks out now on the 429. This is dead, easy you can get to both sets of pins that hold the bin there’s one at the top there, and one at the bottom, so i’m going to go ahead and remove those pins and take these shocks out. d'accord, slight: slight change of plan i’m. Going to do them one at a time because then uh, the rear of the truck, is still supported. One of the shocks so we’ll do them one at a time now to get them apart. All you have to do is just compress the spring. Take this bottom eyelet collar off spring comes off like that undo, the top now these are generally sometimes quite tight, and this one was – and that gives us access then to the shock body and the little plunger inside now.
We need to take this eyelet off the bottom, so gently um. Normalement, you can use a little bit of yet leather belt or something like that, si vous, if you hold them reasonably firm but not too firm, you won’t mark the actual stanchion itself and because they’re not on very tight anyway. We need to take this eyelet off and that’ll. Allow us to withdraw the actual stanchion itself. Now the bottom bit comes off, which we’ll need to do. He says: take that out that’s the actual damper rod. Oh, my goodness me that’s it needlessly tight. That was now inside it’s, like a plastic nylon, washer um, and that is what we’re going to be replacing with our o ring now then, and that will obviously seal the bottom portion of the shock, it’ll seal, the stanchion. So hopefully it’ll stop the oil coming past. Il, quand c’est, once it’s, filled up okay. Now i did make a note of the sizes of the o rings as best i could, pour vous les gars, the larger one and it doesn’t matter if it’s, a flat, washer or a grommet. As long as the outer diameter is approximately nine millimeters and the thickness sort of a millimeter or less that will seal, where is it that will seal the top uh cap on the shock body and the little o ring? As far as i could tell, the od outer diameter is five mil, and the inner diameter is roughly two millimeters and the thickness again is approximately a millimeter.
Donc, j’espère, that one is going to go on the bottom of our damper rod uh. The first job is to install the smaller o ring into the body of the shock, and to do this, all i’ve done is uh push the damper rod back in slid the smaller o ring over the damper rod and very gently push it in. So it seats right at the bottom of the shoulder that’s in the shock body. Now on the wltoys 12 429. You get like these little plastic nylon washers that fit inside uh, but what we’ve got to do they need to fit. I don’t know if you can see they’re flush with the top of the threaded part of the body of the shock, so what we’ve got to do is with a bit of sandpaper we’ve got to sand this little washer down until, comme je le dis, it’s flush with The top of that so i’ll go ahead and do that and i’ll see in a minute: d'accord, that’s that little nylon, uh washer file down so now, as you can see it sort of fits flush with the top of the shock body, and this allows the bottom Cap to be screwed on like so so now, um we’ve got an o ring in there. What i’ll do reattach the bottom eyelet? We can actually put um the spring on in a minute, but what we’ll do is we’ll fill it up with oil. I’Ve still got some of this thousand uh weight stuff that i used on a few of the other projects that we’ve covered in some of the other videos, and what we want to do is get all the pump.
The damper rod a few times because we want to remove all the air out of it as best we can there’s, no more air coming out, so we’ll top it up just so it’s approximately flush with the top of the shock body. Now we get our larger o ring place it on top, and now we can put our cap on now. I did drop a bit of a rick in the fact that i should have pushed the o ring into the top of the cap. Première, before i tried to do it after because you can’t and there’s a larger o ring inside the top of the cap, get the shock body screw it on there we go, and hopefully we should have a shock with some damping in it now and hopefully no Terrible leaks so reinstall the spring put the bottom of the spring collar back on and there we go i’ll repeat the process for the other side and then we’ll do the front. d'accord, both shocks back in uh rebuilt with o rings with a drop of oil in them, and check this out guys damping, tough to bits with that. Absolutely fantastic uh let’s move on to the front now to get to the front on one of these you’ve got to undo these four screws here and once they’re undone, you can lift the body shell off and get to them underneath so that’s. What we’re going to do now so, when you’ve finished taking those screws out for the body, we have that sort of an arrangement and we need to undo that screw and that screw and then you can take the shocks out simple.
As that now the front shocks only differ from the rears in the fact that they’re, shorter and the disassembly is basically the same as for the rear, and hopefully they look about the same size. So the o rings that were required for the rear uh should fit in these as well so i’ll get these stripped. Put some oil in them and we’ll see what the front ones are like: d'accord, everything’s back together, all the shocks are in. What do we think? Bien, Je suis: gon na chalk that up to a win, no more bouncy bouncy, look at that fantastic got bags of damping. Now i’ve used a thousand cst uh four coil i mean. Obviously you can um experiment with lots of different ones. I’Ll just give you the dimensions of those o rings again, so the large one for the cap, the outer diameter, is nine millimeters and thickness is about a mil um. You don’t need any diameter for that. One uh because obviously it’s just got to seal the top of the rim, but the uh one for the stanchion uh was outer diameter, five mil in a diameter, two mil and um roughly about a mil thickness, and that should do it. Mais comme vous pouvez le voir, that’s a cheap upgrade, if ever i saw one anyway, um je suis, not going to try it at the moment, but there’s going to be some up and coming trail videos with this thing so we’ll give it a burn.
Then um i can’t, Aller, try it at the moment, because it’s pitch black and b it’s, absolutely holding it down so uh when it gets a slightly drier day. Nous allons. Take it out for a run. Um i’ll try and find some nice mud for it. Réellement. From from honest, we’ll try and find a damp patch somewhere anyway, if you’ve enjoyed this video – and you found it of some use and interests, give it a thumbs up at the bottom and feeling that incline subscribe to the channel for more similar content in the future.