In my opinion, it is an excellent remote control for RC. It can perfectly fit many vehicles. I personally tested it on BUGGY, CRAWLER, MONSTER TRUCK and DRIFT CAR. I was very satisfied with all the RC vehicles, in which I put it to the test for the possible adjustments it can offer us lets see it together. Lets start with the binding with the receiver. This model uses the AFHDS 2A communication system. Therefore, it will be possible to use only receivers compatible with this firmware. In my opinion, the most suitable receiver is FSBS6. It has 6 channels and an internal gyroscope to do the bind. We have to insert this connector in the appropriate channel with the wording bind after which we have to feed our receiver. I will now use an ESC connected to a battery to give current, but we can also use a compatible battery to insert the channels we have available when powering up the receiver will start flashing red. In this way, the receiver has entered the binding mode, so lets take our remote control. We turn on our remote control by holding down the bind button and when we turned it on the receiver remained solid red. This means that our model has been correctly linked to our remote control. For example, I have this receiver, which at this moment is not communicating with the remote control I removed the bind to show you, then I turn it off and enter this PIN, which is supplied with the receiver in the channel, marked, bind and power.

My device in this way the led is flashing when the remote control is off. I press the bind button and I turn on the remote control. Now the radio has the binding when the battery reaches too low a voltage, the remote control, flashes and vibrates. In this case, we have to change the batteries. This remote control uses 4 simple AA batteries. For this reason, it is very convenient now that we have inserted the charged batteries lets see the settings by moving the wheel. We switch from the battery voltage to the model name until we have the parameters of our sticks. We have 6 channels in total channel 3 … channel 4 …, which has a 3 position switch and two potentiometers at the top channel 6 and channel 5 …. The other channels can be linked here. As you can see, ch3 ch4 … correspond to the channels we have seen before. Then we can connect various servos or other tools that could be useful to us, maybe on other vehicles. This is a drift car. So now we will see the commands that this table offers us and how to set up the gyro. This is the model name, so lets go to model1, which corresponds to this car. Here we select the model name here we decide how to set our commands. In this case, I have the steering that goes the other way around. So, instead of making a change on the machine, we can simply go to the table where it says REV.

On channel 1, which represents the steering select and instead of Normal, we put Reverse. We always confirm with the wheel, and at this moment the steering moves correctly. We check if the accelerator matches. If not, we reverse that too click on back and go to EPA. The EPAs are the END POINTS we can decide how many degrees our steering has. This indicates the rotation to the right. This indicates the rotation to the left, because we can decide the end points of our steering … of our gas of our channel 3 and so on. In this case, being a drift car. I have already made some structural changes to obtain a greater opening of the steering and thanks to the remote control, I can open the steering more bringing it to 120 degrees. We see that the wheels have a greater steering left is still 100. I will bring it to 120, so I slightly increased the steering. We also increase the gas to obtain a greater proportional effect, so we will be able to manage acceleration better. Here we are on channel 2. Acceleration 120 lets put the acceleration to 120. Here we have SUB TRIMs, which arent really TRIMs. They are used to make micro adjustments at the trim level. In this case, I see that my wheels turn slightly to the left. Then we go to channel 1 of the SUB TRIM, as you can see. If I turn it completely, the wheels will go to the right.

I will correct the direction until the wheels are straightened. In my case, it takes very little now lets check the gas. I increase it until I have a signal on the esc as long as the machine will go on by itself up to 62 of forward. In this way, I get a much more precise trigger response. Channel 3 is not set, so I leave it like this. After adjusting the gas, we turn off everything and turn it back on to see if the adjustments have been made correctly if the engine starts well, the SUB TRIMs are the main adjustments to be made on the trim. These are the RATE. The response quantity of the GAS if we want to limit RC vehicles, for example, if I give the car to a child – and I wouldnt – want him to destroy it, so we are 100 GAS. If I go down, the throttle goes down too now, Im at full throttle and, as you can hear, it goes much slower. I recommend not to change the EXPO because it softens the proportional curve and as regards the steering, you could perceive a hole in the maneuver. As for the gas, you can get more or less I dont like it, so I havent changed it. Lets set the ABS to ON guarantees us braking when cornering. So if I brake and I am taking a bend, it does not completely block all the wheels but continues to swerve a little.

So if I want to brake in front of an obstacle, I have the possibility to do so in the ABS. There are also other adjustments: the braking power … daily and cyc. You dont need to change them because thats okay, to make the TRIMs work correctly with the gyro. We leave them at 0. We can adjust all the TRIMs up to channel 4. We leave everything at 0. This receiver is also equipped with a FAIL SAFE. We can decide where to regulate it and how this is a drift car, but on CRAWLER vehicles we have a mode that allows us to rotate the wheels as we want. So the rear axle turns so all 4 wheels turn and so all 4 turn in the opposite way. We need it off, we dont need it in a drift car. We will need the gyroscope which is represented by SVC when it is OFF the wheels, have no reaction when they perceive movement lets set it to ON, and so we turned it on the wheels move by themselves. They react to movement, lets, select the calibration and we wait for the gyroscope to calibrate itself. According to the position in which we put the receiver because we can mount this receiver in multiple positions when calibrating the 0 position is perceived and the movement is calculated correctly, here too, we have the Reverse option. We can decide whether to make the movement normal or to reverse it.

If I invert it, the wheels will turn in reverse. I need it. Normal ST GAIN stands for steering how much the gyro affects the steering with this type of toy car at 42. We get the best steering and reaction TROTTLE GAIN. This gyro also has a feature on the accelerator for the drfit. It is not needed, so we set it to 0. The priority corresponds to how much our steering affects the gyroscope to get a better response. We set it to 70, so if I tell him to change direction when he steers the command is perceived, the drift is always perceived, but my movement is read by the remote control correctly, so thats all guys. I hope this video was helpful if you liked it sign up and leave me a LIKE, also activate the bell.