Here we have the ftx outback xc, much like the rest of the outback range it’s, a rebadged rgt, in this case the rgt136161 catchy name. But if you’re in the uk, you might as well just get the ftx as cost wise it’s, not too much more and is usually available with next day delivery. So the outback and the outback 2 are 1 10 scale. The outback minis are 1 24 scale, and this one is somewhere in between at 1 16 scale. In theory, it should be somewhere near the same size as the wpl tracks. I bet there’s somebody ftx that really wish that they called the 124th outback, the micro instead of the mini. It would have made it easier to separate the sizes with micro mini and the full size outback, rather than sticking xc right in the middle. A quick look at the vitals before we open it up most of it’s, just what you would expect for a scale truck it’s ready to run, of course, which has its pros and cons. There’S, an all metal gear reduction between the motor and the center gearbox, which is nice but i’m, not sure if the rest of the gears are metal, though we’ve got oil filled, dampers, which is rather good to see. It comes with a 7.2 volt 9mi, which will be enough to get you going and a proper little hobbywing esc, which is great other than the lights. The rest of the list is really just filler it’s, exactly what you’d expect from a 1 16 scale truck and on the other side, there’s some nice pictures and details all really good stuff for a retail store, there’s plenty to get your attention all of that isn’t.

What we’re really here, for, though we want to see the track and well, it looks like a track actually it’s. Quite a good looking almost land rover just far enough away to avoid legal issues, but we’ll have a closer look at that in a minute. The radio isn’t too bad, my only real gripe is the wheels are hard plastic which just doesn’t feel very nice, i’m thinking with wet cold hands. It might be a bit of a struggle. Maybe we can 3d print a new wheel and use a foam tire. Otherwise, it’s a bit more than your basic transmitter, because it’s got four channels, so we can operate the lights very nice for power. It needs four double a’s, which of course, aren’t included, but that’s. Okay, because you can pick up a set just about in any shop with the truck removed from the cardboard we’ve got one more accessory to look at the usb charger, which i’m sure would work. Okay, but i’d really suggest not bothering with it if you’re into rc. For more than just the one truck a proper hobby, charger is definitely the way to go. If nothing else, the website suggests it’s going to take 180 minutes to charge the battery from flat, which really isn’t going to be any fun. I was recently asked which charger to get and while things change all the time with what’s available i’d suggest a good old four button charger with mains and 12 volt input that can charge ny and lipo, something like the overlander vsr mini.

If you’re in the uk it’ll do everything you need for typical crawlers and even some speedy tracks, but only up to a point, i’ll have to do another charger. Video at some point, as my last one is a little bit out of date being pre lipo anyway enough on the charger let’s look at the truck the body is your standard lexan type, shell, with plastic bits attached, it’s, very close to looking like a scale defender. Pickup, but just far enough, jlr won’t come after them it’s attached with four body clips, and if we lift the shell lots of wires, it could really do with a tidy up, but it’s got the indicators and headlights all wired up ready to go moving the camera. A bit we can look at all the bits: we’ve got a nice little hobby wing esc, which has a dean’s connector, not an oddball non standard, one which is good. I think i’d rather have an xt 30 or an xt60 to match my other tracks. But dean’s is far better than you might usually expect. The battery is an eleven hundred milliamp hour. Six cell nimo – not great but it’ll, do what we need it to i’d, rather have a lipo in there, but i think ny is probably a bit safer for the target market. So it’s fair enough. On the other side of the chassis, we have the receiver, which at one end, has your usual servo connections.

On the other end, though, is another bank of two pin connections for the lights. You see the receiver has a basic built in light controller, which is great to see. Not all of them are used on this setup, but it’s got your headlights, tail lights and reverse among others. If you want to wire them up, we’ll have to see what the limitations are, but i really like it as a solution for rc lighting, so that’s. The basic first impression bit done: let’s, have a quick look at the paperwork and turn everything on first out, the bag we’ve got a little bag with some extra body clips, which is nice and some spacers for the dampers. Also, nice we’ve got the long body posts for the non pickup version of the body which is good to have, and then we have the manual for the transmitter now i’m guessing from the slightly odd english it’s from the oem, rather than ftx it’s, one of those Where you have to read it three times to get the gist of what you’re supposed to be doing? Interestingly, it’s far more of a radio than you’d think just by looking at it as mentioned it’s four channel, but it’s also got a menu system to set up other things too. I should think it’s, probably preset for the model so i’m not going to dive in just yet but it’s good to see a radio with a bit more to it than your typical rtr2 channel.

Moving on to the ftx manual, we find lots of detail and lovely diagrams. Now i must say all the ftx trucks i’ve come across recently have had really good manuals. Every so often an odd translation leaks through, but overall they’re very clear and have enough detail to sort most issues if you’re not confident on your own, but here at rc mojo we don’t read manual unless we really need to so let’s do what most people are Going to do and turn it on and hope the transmitter uses four double a’s, which go in at the bottom. At the top there’s a sliding power switch, which we need to turn on before the track on the track itself. We need to plug in the deans on the battery into the esc pop the body on now. If we’re going to go and actually run it we’d clip the body clips back in too and then turn on the switch and there we go. We get some beeps. So it’s doing something and at the front well, the headlights are flashing, but the track seems to be working. We’Ve got the steering which also turns on the indicators the throttle works, but reverse does seem a little bit sensitive at the rear. Oddly, the two leds are the indicators i really would have thought they would have wired them up to the brake lights, but there you go it’s still far more of an interactive setup of lights than you get with most other tracks.

As for the flashing headlights, i completely miss there’s, a three position switch at the top of the grip, a quick look in the ftx manual and the penny dropped. Sometimes they are useful in the leftmost position. The headlights are off in the middle. They flash and right keeps them on solid, very nice. The channel 3 button simply toggles the hazards on and off, very cool driving. The truck up and down the bench is quite promising. The gear train sounds very nice and smooth, but that reverse is definitely a bit sharp there’s one more thing to sort out quickly, while we’ve got it all powered up now, it’s critical to set up the steering end points. If you don’t there’s a fair chance, the steering servo’s going to give up pretty quickly under the cover on the transmitter, there’s four knobs, the bottom left is the steering end point adjustment or epa, as the name suggests it’s there to limit how far the steering servo Can move right now at full, lock the poor little servo is moving the wheels all the way, then bending the front of the chassis it’s nice it’s got the torque to do it, but it’s not really healthy. We need to turn the epa down until the servo. Just moves the wheels end to end without stressing it’s a simple thing, but quite often overlooked. It comes up with just about every rtr truck, even the likes of traxxas need checking.

So there we go that’s a quick look at what you’re getting into with the outback. Rc or rgt136161 before we go, though let’s compare it to some other trucks just to get a feel for the size. First, of course, is a wpl wpl being the king of cheap and cheerful it’s, 1 16 like the ftx, so it should be quite similar. Now the body is a bit smaller, but not far off. As far as a chassis goes, the width is almost exactly the same, which is good. But if we compare the wheelbase, it is slightly longer not a bad thing as such, but it is going to make swapping the body on the ftx a little bit more tricky than it really should be. Next, since i reckon people with the outback minions, similar looking to get a bigger truck, might be going for an xc let’s, compare sliding the mini in so it’s, lined up with the back of the xc there’s, quite a size difference to be almost exact. The xc is about one and a half minis in length, which is odd, as i think, if the 124 scale of the minis was accurate, surely the xc would be 1 12.. If nothing else, it just shows how inconsistent the scales of rc trucks are. They’Re. Always all over the place and now to round things off, we’ll compare with the traxxas trx4, which is of course, one tenth scale, although a slightly longer wheelbase at 324 millimeters rather than the typical 313 again, the scale doesn’t quite add up.

But what can you do? The only real, accurate thing we can do is say the xc plus two sideways minis equals one trx4. The important thing, though, is that the xc is more or less right in between a typical 1 10 and 1 24 scale truck now. Why is that important? Well, it makes the trails and obstacles fun again. I like to think of the different scales as changing the size of the world, rather than the truck that obstacle, which might just be a tree root, is no problem for the trx4. The xc might need a bit more thought to get through and, of course, with the mini, the route is probably going to be half the height of the truck. Having the different sized trucks keeps things fresh and interesting, especially right now, when we’re not really supposed to be traveling around, it really makes you have to relearn all the lines and paths now normally i’d move on to some outside footage for a full test run, but I’M still a bit short on content so i’m going to save that for next week. This clip, though, will have to do for the time being so think of it as a teaser.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_chQ1WSY5XE