Garage RC presents …..Hammer toys HT1 RWD MINI RC DRIFT CAR REVIEW 1/24 scale Skyline r32
Hd one hammer: toys hd1, so this is a rear. Wheel, drive drift car that has been supplied to me by chan rc. Thank you. Chad always looking after me, very happy to be dealing with you. This car i got on. I was kind of bored almost for the choices i had. I built the drift art too, so chan uh kindly suggested. I try out the uh ht one hammer hd one. So this is the car assembled. Now i think the wheelbase on this now is i’ll show you, i think, we’re about 108 millimeters yeah about 108 that’s an approximation, but you can fully adjust the wheelbase on this. I’Ll show that in a moment this is my veilside. R32 124 scale gtr shell, which i haven’t quite finished yet, but it needs a good polish up, but on the whole i’m pretty happy with it. It could have been better but, like i said, i’m pretty happy with it, it looks pretty cool it’s got some. Nice features on him: okay, let’s get to the chassis first we’ll talk about the shell afterwards, so, as you can see, it’s been set up with magnetic mounts, so let’s talk about the car itself. First, before we discuss how it handles i’ll talk about the build the various issues i’ve had: okay, so it’s a double deck chassis, as you can probably see there. The arrangements make it quite neat to set up at the moment i’m laying the battery across, but i think, if you make the wheelbase long enough, you can lay it lengthwise, but it seems to be working for me: it’s a fully adjustable chassis, so you can slide And do some screws and slide it backwards and forwards to get the wheelbase wheels exactly in the wheel.
Arches of the show you’re, using which i always prefer to the options where you have set screw sizes and although it makes it easier to set it up for a particular size, it makes it difficult to fine tune so that’s good it’s, mainly carbon fiber. As you can see here, the plastic parts, although look not too good, are not bad. You know they’re fairly tough, so i didn’t strip any screws or anything like that or stripping the plastic parts during the assembly. The instructions themselves i’ll get to in a second but let’s just go through some more of the features of the car, so double wishbone suspension front to rear steering angle is pretty good. Let’S see if i can’t get this laid down flat, so you can see it better, but you can get a pretty much a full lock on it. So one of the issues with this car which i’ll go through a second, is the rear, drive shaft. But so you get a good, lock. Okay, the suspension itself is a spring shocks, front and rear, which are very easy to set up quite loose, and i think that really does help in the handling very free, very easy. I didn’t have to do much adjusting there at all, so that’s a plus point same for the rear. These are similar to the shocks that you get on the drift art too again very loose, very easy to set up now. The gearbox itself leaves a lot to be desired, but it’s functional let’s just leave it at that.
Shall we it’s functional. I don’t particularly like the gears i don’t know the way it was built but it’s functional and it works so we’ll. Let it off the uh front. Suspension also allows for a really good camber adjustments. Now i don’t know if you can see this here, i’ll try and zoom in and show you as i always do screw there. You undo that, and you can slide this arm forwards and back as much as you like so within this runner here. That is fantastic. That is a very good setting on this car that i really appreciate the brass brass. Looking parts here, you can rotate in and out to extend the arms. Equally, you can also unscrew. The plastic ball end here out of the arm. Now this was a real hate of mine. During the build of this, these plastic arms the way they you have to almost thread them in so this has to go over. The plastic arm, put a thread onto it. If you over twist these at any point they can break so i tend to adjust them from this area here rather than here, but this is something that can be improved upon quite easily by using a metal rod inside like the drift art too, but that’s for Another video, okay, what else so that’s the front suspension and the front camber adjustment, the toe in and out, is relatively easy. Just like any other car, you pop the ball ends off twist it accordingly and there is no ride height adjustment on this.
Everything has to be done from the shock tension, which again is something i don’t like. That would be a lot better if you had actual screws to set the ride height, but there are a few cars that are like that. What sets this car apart at the moment is the active rear turn i don’t know if i’m describing that correctly. But what that means is that as the arm moves up and down, if i push the arm all the way up, you can see the wheel almost toes out. It does toe out not almost and as i lower it down, it goes back to the straight. So if you set the weighting up on the car correctly, you can have the toe parallel, but as it slides and leans on one arm the toe changes, and this actually helps the stability of the drifting so that’s. Quite a good feature which i wasn’t sure like at first and does make setting up very difficult, but once set up, i think it actually gives the car a lot of stability and character. So that’s a good thing, albeit tricky, so the build itself was virtually impossible because the instructions weren’t in language i could understand, and even then there was no indication of screw sizes or anything like that. I could make out. Thankfully, the car was relatively simple to build. So it wasn’t too much of a problem but uh. Yes, that could have made things easier, as you can see i’m using everyone’s favorite server.
At the moment. The uh a11 cls let’s see if i can get that in there also i’m, using the electronics out of one of my xrx’s dpa sport and the generation 3 gyro and that’s mated to a fly sky, mb4 receiver. So there you have the setup now. This is similar to the drift art ii there’s, a direct link from the servo to the steering arms, which gives very good steering only this time the servo is upside down, but i do like the way they’ve incorporated it into the frame of the chassis. This i do like so that is quite clever, so there’s some clever ideas on this car, but i think uh things that could be improved greatly. So let’s talk a bit more about problems so i’m going to go over to the parts bin here. So this is one of the problems i encountered. As you can see here. The cup has broken off this rear gear, which is a fixed rear, diff. So sorry to mention guys fix rear diff on this car. Now, thankfully, uh chan had the foresight to uh. Send me extras, so i had some spares. Thank you again very nice of you and enabled me to still put the car together. This car does come with two sets of drive, shafts different sizes for different widths. Now the problem i’ve got at the moment is using the drive shafts that come with the set the moment you pick the car up off the ground.
Can you see how the drive shaft is now dislodged? So when you put the car back down, you have to rotate and make sure the driveshaft is in now if it had ride adjustment. That would keep the wheels in place, but, as you can see, boom drive shaft is out. If you then try and drive it by putting it down that’s how this happens, it breaks him. So this is a feature that i think with a bit of adjusting with different drive, shaft spaces and whatnot. I think i can improve this, and certainly i’ll come back to that. So that was a flaw for me. Definitely that needs looking at another problem. I found with this car, which again i don’t want to take away from its handling. I will go through that in a moment. It is good. I had to make my own stoppers here so that the steering didn’t lock if it went past a certain point now the dpa sports, i think diaz version, two, the um drift art ii. They all have these stoppers, but i think the gld doesn’t yes, so this is a pet hate of mine. I think they should have this in standard on any rear. Wheel drive drift car. You should have stoppers to stop the wheels locking how i’ve made this is. I used a servo horn, the end of a servo horn, which i cut off. I use a grub screw, i think it’s a m2 rub screw and then a small screw to secure it to the second hole that was free on the knuckle.
So that worked out quite well and with that i’ve been able to make these are adjustable by the way i can swivel them, as i want to change the locking position but that’s the position that works so with this setup now. Oh one final thing to mention: i think, which is worth a note: the actual track of this car, the width so set up as it is. This is with zero, offset okay, the rear track about 77 78 millimeters. Now that is something that you could say: isn’t a problem per se for most of the shells, but with this 124th scale i struggled to find wheels that would fit so i had to use zero offset dual racing wheels and it just about fits in and that’s At the minimum setting, so what i mean by that is i’ve actually turned these all the way. In close as i can and that’s the minimum width, i could do so that’s fine, if you’re using a camaro shell zr1 audio r8, any of the wider shells. But when you get into sort of the more skyline type shells, then it’s going to be an issue. Although i think it’s worth mentioning this car does not come with an adapter to fit a mini z, mount at the front or side mounts so you’re limited in what you can use on this car. Unless you’ve got magnetic mounts, the wheelbase is adjustable from 90. I think up to 130 millimeters, but you’re gon na need magnetic mounts that does eliminate a lot of the issues, but okay here’s a quality control issue.
Already the uh ball joints d clipping: okay, let’s go back in let’s carry on so i think with this. What you’ve got to remember is that the front width is more standard, so i’ve got two offset wheels on the front and we’re measuring about see yeah about 75 millimeters that’s set for the car i’m using at the moment, but the rear was very wide. So if you intend on using say a skyline shell, like a 94 millimeter skyline shell, an r32 r34 r33 you’re gon na have to do something to make this shorter to be able to fit in, maybe use, i don’t know get trying to eliminate the brush joining Between bring the wheels in a bit more use, shorter drive, shafts that’s, something i’ll address in another video, but it’s. The only downside i can see here so again. This card does not have any mounting system for a mini zed. You have to use magnets to mount shells that’s why i use the 124th scale self shut off the bat, because i was quite happy to fit the magnets on that anyway, right so, overall, what have we got here? Let’S in summary, fully adjustable wheelbase out the box. You have to provide your own electronics. Gearbox is not the best steering is good and efficient. Uh servo to use is the a11 magnetic mounts needed fairly lightweight. I think the weight of this car is let’s. Have a quick look 113 with the battery 130 grams, which is, i think, similar to the drift r2.
I can’t remember now off the top of my head. Look at the last video handling wise the car handles like a dream. So, despite all its flaws and i’m not recommending you rush out and buy this car guys, it was a headache to build okay. It was a headache to build, and i can see floors of this car will frustrate other people so i’m, not going to say it’s a good buy, but it was a cheap buy for definite. It was way cheaper than the other cars and it does handle. So if you’re, looking at a cheap, 124 scale, you’re fairly uh adaptable and know how to deal with the issues, this car is gon na present, once you’ve got it set up, and you know what you’re doing this actually handles very nicely on par with the drift Art team and i think, that’s rear active toe, really makes a difference. It makes it kind of sweet, so that’s what i think of the car overall um yeah i’m i’m, viewing this car more as a project. I love cars like this, because the floors are what make me excited. I know what i can do with parts of this car that i can improve and that’s what i intend to do so guys uh i’m, going to leave you with some footage of the car. Drifting now and see what you think so guys i’ve had to turn the engine sound off for the car, because it’s so noisy.
This is by far one of the noisiest cars i’ve run and uh apologies for that. My wife got in the video so there’s. Even this drifting footage right now, isn’t as i wanted it to be, i had to edit her out, but she was complaining about the noise the car was making. It was very noisy, coupled with the 124th scale. Shell. I think the gears are uncovered. It made a real echoey, grindy sound, so for that reason it wasn’t favorable for uh home use, but otherwise, as you can see here, it does turn beautifully and it does change direction really easily really floats around and what i’m doing here, literally weaving backwards and forward To show you, even with this long long chassis, you know 108 millimeters and with a long, skyline, 124 scale, shell, it moves and i’ve done a top down view here. Just so, you can see the kind of fun i was having with it, but it really did dance very, very good. So, despite my misgivings about the build quality, the difficulty of the build all the problems, this is a very good handling car and i think, with a bit of work. I could make this really good. So, as you can see there, literally just wherever i want to change direction, it will change direction, even if it’s in mid slide, it will just stop and go the other way and i’ve not used any counterweights in this car.
This is just set up, as is with the shell, on top back to the front angle. Here, just try to show you how control that rear tail is. You can see i’m. Actually, you know i’m, not purposely stuttering, i’m. Just changing throttling the steering angle just to make it swing and stop swinging. It really does balance well very impressed with this car it’s a bit faster than the drift arc ii definitely got more pace and i think that’s, because it hasn’t got the uh belt. Drive i’m using a three and a half thousand kv motor and it is quicker than the drift arc ii, not as quick as say a dpa sport it’s. It feels light very light very similar to the drift r2 it’s it’s comparable, and i think the rear, active toe is something really special on this car it’s uh. I think the tlc has something similar, but i haven’t driven that car yet and i haven’t tested it, but this one very sweet. I could do long, slides short, slides, very controllable and yeah overall to drive beautiful, so that’s.