in today’s episode, i’m going to give you a short update about the gap, rc cinequeen 4k fpv drone. I did some modifications on the drone to reduce weights to increase the range and other stuff and i’m gon na guide you through all the mods i did on the quad. First of all, i have to give you an information about vtx in my first review about this drone. I mentioned that the vtx is running on 500 milliwatts permanently and you cannot change the output power, but this is wrong. It has pit mode 25, milliwatts, 100, 200. 400 and 500 milliwatts. The reason why i thought that you cannot change the vtx output power is that the programming button didn’t react to the programming i did and the reason for this is that the stock setup – this is a bind flight drone, so everything is installed and programmed from the Factory and the stock programming of the vtx is on better flight, so that means you can change the settings of the vtx through better flight, but this means that you cannot use this button to program your vtx. If you want to change the settings, the band, the channel and the output power, with this button, you have to disable the programming function in betaflight to program your vtx to ufc on betaflight. This is on the ports table on peripherals. There is, i think, vtx set, and you have to set this setting to disable and save the settings, and after this you are able to program your vtx in the usual way over the programming button of the vtx, then let’s talk about prop cards.
The prop cards are a new thing to me. I didn’t have a quad before with prop guards, and the idea is pretty simple: if you hit an obstacle, you don’t damage your props. The downside of these prop guards was that in stock condition i wasn’t able to do a forest setup with 650 billion power batteries under 250 grams. So i tried to do some modifications on the quad to reach a setup under 250 grams, including the prop guards, and the modification on the prop guards is pretty obvious. I just cut out this piece of the guard, which is more or less useless in case of protecting your propellers, because it’s only the inside of the guard, which doesn’t really help to protect your propeller. So i cut this stuff out. This reduces, i think, about three grams or something it’s all guards together are then around 22 grams, with cutting out this piece and the more important advantage you get with cutting out this piece of the prop cards that you have access to. The usb connector of the fc to the usb connector of the categor cam, and also to the micro sd card slot, which makes the handling of the quad. If you want to program it. If you want to change your sd card or remove your sd card, it makes all the handling way simpler and also, on the other side, the buttons of the stars here which are under the velcro here, you can reach all that stuff way better than if you Have the stock shape of the prop guards? So the setup like this on forest 650 milliamp hour, china hobby line batteries, is at 245 grams without the prop guards i’m, even down to 223 grams.
A downside on the prop guards i figured out so far is that the flight characteristics are a bit affected in a negative way. So in windy conditions, the quad reacts more to the wind and is more shaky in the air and your footage from the catholic stars. Here is less smooth just because it’s not stabilized what you get from the tarsier. So it is very important that your quad fly as smooth as possible to get nice 4k footage out of your catholic stars here, and these prop guards don’t help to get your quad flying smooth, so that’s a problem, and i think i will fly it without prop Guards just to have less weight just to avoid the problems with windy conditions, all that stuff. Another little downside i didn’t have a lot of crashes, but, as you can see, one of the pro cards already broke. The question for me is what it’s really good for because it doesn’t matter if i have to replace a prop card – or i have to replace a prop – i have to spend some money. Anyways for prop cards are around six dollars. 12 emacs upon mini props are around 12. So if you have to replace one prop it’s around one dollar, if you have to replace one prop card it’s around 1.50, so for me there are some reasons for using the prop guards, especially if you can damage obstacles or if you can hurt people in the Area you fly, you want to do your footage, then, for sure use these prop guards to avoid getting in trouble with hurting people or damage obstacles, but it’s only for slow flying.
In my opinion, the prop guards as soon as you want to go fly fast and in windy conditions and all that stuff they break too fast and they affect the flight characteristics in a negative way. So for me, they don’t make too much sense. So i will remove them. I just wanted to show you the solution of the access of all the stacks and how this looks like with the modification, but i will remove them and fly the quad as usual without prop guards, then i also change the position of the rc receiver. Is the rxsr receiver from freesky which is installed in this binary flight drone? The stock position is on top of the kadek stars here stack and the antennas are mounted on these little holes with some zip ties. This is not the perfect solution for maximum range, so i moved the rc receiver into the back in this 3d printed part and the antennas are also stock setup with the tubes and like this, you have higher antennas. You have the antennas more away from your frame. So like this, you will get better range to do this modification. I had to take off the rc receiver from the stack of the catholic stars here then, i was able to lower the stack of the catholic stars here to the bottom plate, because the rc receiver was sitting underneath. The catholic stars here stack remove the antennas, the stock antennas. I also removed the stock led.
There are two leds in the back side of the frame and i removed this led just to get enough space for the receiver. To put it back in there on the receiver itself, i had to remove the connector just to make the rc receiver smaller and soldered. The cables directly onto the receiver put the fresh ring tube on it and put the receiver into the back of the frame. Another little advantage of this position, i think, is that it’s as far as possible away from all the electronics, so in case of interferences, i think this is the best place for the rc receiver. What i removed from the frame are these two stack supports. These are mounted originally on top of the gap, rc stack and on the bottom side of the categories here just to mount the rc receiver in the stock position. So there is no more need for these two pieces after the modifications, so you can simply reduce a little bit of weight. The velcro you can see around the cutting stars here stack. This is just to avoid losing the micro sd card in case of crashes. If you don’t have this velcro around your stack hit on the quad can release the sd card and you will never found your sd card out in the field or wherever you fly. So this simple solution with the velcro helps to keep your micro sd card in place. The only thing you have to be aware of don’t pull the strap tight because, as you can see, i can move it around.
This is because, on the other side of the stack of the cutting stars here, you have these two buttons and if you tighten up your velcro, you will push these buttons permanently and if you push these buttons permanently, your cutting stars here, won’t work anymore. So just put it around don’t tighten it up and like this you it cannot go anywhere, but it also doesn’t push on the cutting star c programming buttons to reduce the weight of the setup. A little more i just reduced to one battery strap instead of two. These are really strong battery strap with metal rings and they’re super strong and the batteries are only around 90 grams, so one strap is definitely enough and with only using one strap, you can simply reduce the weight of your build after the first few flights of this Drone, i was disappointed about the picture quality of the kadik stars here. This is not my first galaxy it’s, the third camera. I have the third cutting stars here. It was the first one which had color issues, so it depends in what direction you look to the sun and all the colors went totally purple. I didn’t have this issue in the past with the other catholic stars here camps and i tried different things. First, i thought these were nd filters, but the nd filters didn’t affect the result and i changed the lenses, but the lenses also weren’t the problem. Then i took another cutting stars here.
The blue one is the one which was installed in this frame with the color issues and the red one is another one. I just changed the front part, not the whole electronics of the camera, but the front part with the sensors and the electronics plate of the sensors. The first test i did at sunlight, not flying but just moving the quad around and recording at sunlight – looks promising with the other camera. So it seems that this camera front part of the camera with the sensors built in have any kind of issue. I don’t know exactly what, but i hope that the solution is to change the front part of the camera. I will do some test flights soon and will come up with some videos, and i hope this is the solution for this camera, because i didn’t know about this issue with the other two torsos i had so far. So i think this particular camera has a problem.