HOW TO INSTALL REMOTE START AND ALARM CHEVY TAHOE 1995 1996 1997
This should be able to work for a 95, 96 and 97 from what the instructions are showing me. So let’s go set this up for it first off things that you need to know is that an automatic, if so, and of course, we’re going to have to do a loop cut, is you’re going to see right here. The other thing is we’re going to have to know a couple other things, but we’ll get to those when we get to them. Second of all, you might want to take apart the first I’m going to be showing that secondary, because I read you know what’s under the dash in this vehicle. But the reason why I say that is if there is an aftermarket immobilizer alarm in there it’s going to make your job easier, but it’s always nice to know if there is because then you can usually splice off of it. Um next thing you need to know is: are you doing a auto start or just alarm? Yeah tell you the truth doing an auto start on this is pretty simple. There is a few more wires you have to hit, but I’ll tell you which wire’s you have to do and what not. But if you’re already doing or buying a alarm, then you might as well. If you want buy starter as well, because it’s always nice to have in the winter, okay give me one sec here, and I will show you certain things.
We have to do you’re going to see this green little loop to get this door off pretty easy. You just squish down on here slide off once you do take a pair of snips. Now again, this is, if it’s, a automatic you’re going to want to cut this loop. If not, this is majorly going to be a video for automatic because I’m not going to show you how to get onto your clutch wire and stuff, but just cut that loop like so, and I might not have cut it all the way through no a4 snips Um just cut that out and then you’re gon na literally bend these away from each other. You don’t want that loop to touch what this does is. If that loops together it thinks it’s a manual, so it will make you have certain wires hooked up. Otherwise, won’t start so that way, if you start it and it’s in gear, it doesn’t roll the car right into the house if it’s a manual. So if you have an auto cut that and then I’ll show you something about these jumpers later, these jumpers they’re going to be part of what we do on the back side. Here, it’s going to tell us how to set up for a door trigger polarity and all that fun stuff for if you have locks and whatnot. But and of course, if your door is going to be coming off of a or your door triggers are coming off of a dome light, it might be a positive door trigger and say.
If you have a door, pin it’ll be a negative trigger because it’ll ground and then, if it the ground, releases and it’s no longer grounded, then that would set it off so that’s a negative door trigger anyways I’ll show you that all in a second okay! So if you take a look here, this is what you’re going to want to hook up so you’re gon na have to pre wire this for all of this, so that’s. What I’ve done is I had to wire a second ignition, so if you’re looking at this you’re going to see that second constant wire, which is red white, all you do, is you actually wire together the red and the red white, as I’ve done here and after You’Ve wired, the red white there, you’re gon na see you have another relay, which is right here after that you’re going to have a blue wire, which is going to be your second ignition and then you’re going to have a purple well that purple wire that’s coming Off of the other side of the relay you’re going to want to hook that one up to your second ignition, so that way when it fires the second nishan it’s going to fire that wire off after that other wires. Of course, you gon na have to make sure you wire in is your brake switch and you’re gon na want a trunk? Pin some people just decide not to all the trunk.
Pin basically does are not the trunk pansori. Your hood pin the hood pin. Basically, if you’re working on your vehicle – and you lean on your keys, it won’t auto start your vehicle because it will not be grounded so we’re going to be putting it in a hood pin. So that way lean on the keys. Anything like that yeah it doesn’t, remove your fingers, so we’re gon na put that in there and then ours does have a factory disarm so you’re going to see a disarm wire you’re going to take that just basically go down here and if you go down the Back of your alarm, it’s going to have it all listed, so just match them up and then all the wires that you’re not using just cut cut them at about that much length and then tape them up. So pull this bolt. Pull this bolt and pull the bolts along the bottom all the way to here there isn’t anything up here and then you’re, just going pull and pop out the whole top end. Now one thing is this: one: had the old factory immobilizer look at this it’s a little chip one. I really didn’t, like those so we’re, going to take this oh I’m, going to be taking this old one out which is going to help a little bit, but next I have to after you get. This poured you’ve got HVAC. We have to remove this HVAC piece right here looks like it’s.
Just a couple of barbed clips that we’ll have to squeeze in it should release already got that side out there and then now you got your trunk release right here. You just turn it sideways grab and turn and then it’s released wide have to release it from the handle, but ah let’s take a look here. Live action, demo might be a screw or something or quick release on the handle. Alright see those two little barbs on the handle squeeze this in and squeeze in the other side on both sides might need a pair of pliers, but if you squeeze out this handle will let go and then this whole piece will be free to let go next Thing to do to make your life easier pop off this kick panel, so 10 mils all around looks like this is the same size as the other one, which I think I’m, using a half inch or 7 mil right at 7 mil. So if we go under the dash, you’ll see this now this is a mighty tap. What are the idiots that wired this thing put that in there and they cut the starter wire right here so since they did rather than go and try – and you know, solve this back together and go off another one – I went off the wire right here now. You can also see there’s a red wire here. Obviously, this guy’s grabbing power from right here I’d rather go a little bit farther up the column.
I think so, I’m, probably going to just take apart this column right here and I’m, going to run all my ignition wires right up to there. So first things first let’s pop off the column, probably going to be three screws or two screws right here and the whole bottom inch just pop right off all right. So if you grab right here, pull this out is like a little key, don’t lose it and then after you loosen the two Torx screws right here. Grab this wiggle pull down, go to the other side, make sure she Wiggles free, perfect and it looks like I’ve got the screw not completely out so give me one sec here. So good thing to do. First is, of course, ground your alarm. You can just put a ring if you want and then just self tap a screw right here I checked and it clears you can go and do that or what you can do, of course, is just dig around and look for a grounding bolt or any bolt Where it’s already got a ring and it’s been bolted and you can just solder onto there, but I like to ground my alarm first before I start hooking up like the power so now that I’ve grounded it next thing I want to do is I’ve got all My wires right here, these are all my ignition wires up here on the column we’re, going to probably have to tap into one of these for our lights, because we’re going to need our parking lights and fun stuff, like that, the other place that it might be, Which is right here – this is our parking lights over here, so our green white right here should be going up and over there and then we’ll put that up onto the parking lights up, oh and over here.
So that way, our parking lights flicker when you are more disarmed. So I tested the red wire with my meter right here and my meter said: yes, it is 12 volt, so I’m, now off of there. Now, if you’re going to do your starter wire and not down there only reason why I did. That is because it was cut down there. This would be your starter wire right here, which is your yellow wire, so next I’m going to jump on to our ignition, which is pink so make sure you can distinguish between that red one. And this pink one right here and you can tell because it’s, nice and pink and again to test this, how you would do it is just put your key in the ignition switch it to ignition and check for 12 volts turn off the ignition if it loses 12 volts, you know, that’s your ignition wire, so to get to our parking lights, which is, of course, our green white wire right here, just grab the side of the dash. You can work it off a little bit. I’Ll be careful, you don’t break the dash, but you should be able to get enough room that you can either. If you want to, you, can disconnect this right from here. You can just unplug it or you could test your wiring or do whichever way you want to do it just we’re going to have to test wires first or I’ll, test the wires and I’ll.
Let you know and make sure it is that wire, but again make sure you test your own wires if you want to double make double sure. So, if you’re looking at the clip this way see that brown wire right there, that is your parking lights, I tested it yeah, okay, I’m, going to plug that back in and sync that in so it’s up to you, where you want to put it, I put The antenna right here, the thing is with this antenna it’s actually got an LED already built inside of it now some of them don’t. So you have to mount an LED in the dash so it’s up to you, where you want to mount it. You can mount it right here because you can easily reach it or reach around. So if you drilled a hole, then you can pop the LED out and put it in there for me, I’m just going to put it right here because well, like I said I press this button, see that we’ve got a blue light. So got that already, just and all I did is I tucked it in along here. Alright guys so let’s go over this green wire is going to go or well. Our green wire or pink wire is, I should say, is our first ignition. Our white wire is our second ignition. Our brown wire is our third ignition, our red white here, our our red, our 12 volt constants um orange, is our accessory and yeah.
That should take care of all your big wires and then, of course, if you’re doing the other one up here, this yellow wire, the light yellow one. That is your starter wire, which you’ll cut in half and then solder on one side of the relay and then the other wire. So there should be maybe yellow and yellow black you’ll solder, those two one onto each side, so yellow here and then yellow black to the other side. So that way, it separates it because that’s going to be a remote eliezer under the hood from here you’re going to mount your siren in a spot which is of your choosing. You can mount it up here. If you wanted completely up to you, you might have to drill through the firewall that’s right into that round circle. You can drill anywhere on that round. You can see. I have wires coming through see my shadow finger, pointing at this big round circle. Yes, so drill through anything a drill hole through there it’ll come through on the inside over here and if you look where I pulled the carpet back let’s see. If I can show you right, there see those wires going through there. You pull the carpet back at the very top along that orange edge is where your holes going to come out, and then you can pop in either a plastic grommet or just deburr the hole to make sure it doesn’t scratch anything and then you’re gon na pop.
Your siren wire, your hood, pin wire and your tack wire out through that hole. If you’re going to be hooking up a horn, it will be the black wire you’ll, see the. Of course. The steering will go over here with all the little wires and it’s. The only black wire over there and make sure you test it because you don’t want it to be an airbag, but it didn’t come off as an airbag. So when I tested the horn by honking it, the black wire was the right one. All right guys, you’re gon na see something that looks like a CPU heatsink right here. This is under the hood. This is where you gon na put on your tack wire. So just solder it on here tape it up now. What I would suggest you do is throw some loom across here all the way to the grommet so that way in the engine he doesn’t affect that wire. Once that’s done, the next thing, we’re going to quickly do is put a hood pin on and what, if you guys take a look? We’Ve got the siren on here. You can either mount it up here or you can do that. I put the ground on here and then, of course we have our brown wire, which goes to the siren, so just tuck your brown wire up to there might have to extend it now. The next thing is now that we’ve got the coil the siren done.
Next, we have to do this, so, as you see, I just reamed out a hole now we’re going to put our hood pin through now. All hood pins attach differently, but just do it so the crush washers on top like so and tighten the bolt so it’s nice and tight, and then you need to do the height of the hood. Pin you just got to make sure that it pushes it away, because if this is grounded, then you’re like see how those are too touching. If that’s touching then there’s no way your car will start, it has to be separated. What’S also cool is, if you set this up right, then your alarm will go off. Somebody tries to pop your hood and silly performance upgrades yay alright, so if you guys are looking for the brake switch, if you look you’re going to see this box right here to read above the brake pedal and there you’ll see little white wire there’s, a big Fat white wire and then there’s a little or white wire – I tested it, and that is the brake switch wire gon na need that to remote start after you put this in after you’ve got all the wires done. That I’ve shown you so far. We’Re going to test the remote start out, so first thing you want to do is put your key in flick. It five times, one two, three, four: five after you do that you need to press the lock button on here.
You’Ll see the truck will blink once that means you’ve successfully registered your remote, and this is only for copy star Arctic start for Nordic. You know that actually look like this remoter. It’Ll say compy star on the remote, but anything along those lines are the CM line of brains like the one I’m, putting in that’s how you would program the remote and then, of course, after you click the lock button on this one. Then, if you have a secondary remote, you click the lock button on that one. It would sync up after you done turn the vitor turn the ignition off done, then, to start to program, your remote start. You need to first take your key put it. In start. The vehicle like so start it after it’s started, give it five seconds: let it if it’s going to drop down, let it drop down and do its thing. This see how the idle just dropped perfect from here click this button and hold it you’ll hear your parking lights flicker, once you’ve released turn off your vehicle now, I’m, going to step outside the vehicle, close the door go to your remote, go outside click. This and click until it blinks boom. She started good thing right now: we’re going to unlock our vehicle after we’ve unlocked open the door now we’re going to test the brake pedal. Yeah brake switch works. Now, if you’re like wait, why did that happen? Now? Am I going to do I have to restart my vehicle? If I you know every time know what you’re going to do is if you’re getting into your vehicle, you need to make sure that you first hop into the vehicle and then put your key in and then put it to ACC don’t try to crank the engine.
Just put it into the on position and then from there you can put your foot on the brake and shift it into gear. It’Ll be fine, it won’t stop the engine that’s, basically, because if somebody smashes your window and jumps into your vehicle, you don’t want them to be at the brake, switch and put into gear. Okay, so let’s get the last bit of the alarm portion done, which is just basically from this point. We got to hook up our door switch alright guys. So if you take a look here, white wire, I ended up putting the door pins off of here and the reason why is I couldn’t get a proper reading out of the door pin here and when I did get a proper reading out of it? I was pretty sure I need a diode or a resistor, now there’s a couple different things. I why I went off of here one this also controls the truck gate, and by doing this, if you pop the tailgate, this goes off um now the only downfall to it is. You have to have a manual because we’re going to have to program for an extended, because this dome light stays on, gives you 1520 seconds after you lock the vehicle. So what we’re going to do is just program the module after we’re done so I’m, just going to start this one up and then from there I’ll do the programming once I’ve tacked on the rest of my wires.
Actually, this is probably near the last wire. I do for now these ones that I’ve left right here are all for doing a trunk pop and stuff like that, so just going to get the soldered up after you have that technically your alarm and start now work. If you press, lock and stuff, we just have to program for that extra dome, light delay and we’re good. If you want to have trunk pin, then we want that again. This will take care of our Trump or sorry. This will take care of our trunk pin. So we won’t need that wire now. But if you want trunk pop which is off of the trunk button, then we would need to, of course create a relay module for this one because it’s a positive trunk pop – and this is negative. So, since it’s a positive trunk pop, we want to make a relay pack, and since we have positive trigger locks, we actually have to make a positive pack, which I’ll probably do here in a second alright guys so to quickly show you how I’ve made our positive Trunk pin and door lock relay so the problem is, is our brain puts out negative triggers and we need positive how we fix this. As you can see here, we have number 30s on the bottom. I sit I’m just saying the number 30 on here, because that’s what your relay pin should be on the bottom, so 30, 30, 30 and all you’re doing is you’re putting positive 230, which is right here and 86.
So just do this and then this we’re going to wire to a constant wire inside vehicle, so basically just a 12 volt. If you remember in the ignition there was one that was red white, that one right there was a constant I’m just going to attach this and it’ll be a red white red white, and then these three wires that you see off of here are going to be Our positive triggers so now what we need to do is let’s say for the door pin, for example, or the trunk pop. The trunk pop is a positive pop, so I’m, going to take the negative trunk pop from my brain. Put it on here and I’m going to take this one and I’ll put going to put it on the wire that goes to the trunk pop switch. So you, if you go with your meter and I’ll, show you in the car there’s going to be a positive pop and if you hit it with 12 volts it’s going to pop the trunk lid, so we’re going to attach that there and then, of course same Here negative door lock unlock wire this to the unlock on the unlock, keyless, brain and so on so forth. Just get one of these packs made for yourself, like it’s, really easy to put together, it’s just three relays and then bring it to the vehicle and let’s wire it up. So this is your trunk switch right here.
I just pop the dashboards and then I pushed forward on the switches pretty easy to get them on plug they’re all the same barb you just unplug that Barb and that barb strip back the black wire off of here, just solder that on and then we’ll go Down to the door locks both the door locks are on a pedal down there or not them they’re, not on the pedal they’re right beside the brake pedal, it’s kind of like a relay pack that’s attached to the brake pedal. So next thing to do is just to add that red white to the red white under the column, solder tape it in. And if you take your remote after that, and you hold that trunk button for three seconds, you hear that solenoid pop in the back and you should be able to flip it up now. All we have to do is quickly hook up our door locks now, both of those, as I said, are underneath um. Just let me get a better angle and solder mine on and I’ll show you exactly where they both are. So if you look at the accelerate pedal – and you look above you’ll – see that it’s going to be barbed on this little relay box, this is your keyless entry light blue. Is your lock wire white wire? Is your unlock so take the two remember how I showed you and just like we did with the trunk switch and you’re gon na.
Have those negatives so negative goes there there, as you can see, light blue it there on the opposite ends and how you know you’ve got the right ones will hit the lock. Yep solenoid went down unlocks all and it goes up. We’Re good, alright, let’s.
Can u explain what the “second starter” wire is all about? Thanks! Great vid.
What if i want to remove the auto start.
Fuck everyone in her trying to install this and the truck I have has this and I want it gone
Tryin to hook up a viper 5305v alarm remote start on my 1998 chevy truck but you lost me with the relays. Can you help?
I had my viper alarm system installed like 2 weeks ago and now every time my key goes back from the off position the truck tries to crank over, but never turns on just a constant crank noise.
How manny relays do i need
Your video sucks
I swear got a 1994 Chevy and it turns out old owner wired one of these alarms into my truck and wired the door lock into it but what a surprise they gave up and didn’t power the alarm so the fix was so simple and I didn’t know it was there for years
The way he’s got it if you hit the dome over ride the alarm won’t work
Does this work for 99 suburban?
Will this work if it different car and different car alarm?
What wires are going into and coming out of the first relay you set up? The ignition ones.
So i would like to install a remote start into my 1996 Tahoe and was wondering what wires do i need to put relays or anything of the sort onto? Thanks!
Can remote start work on a 1994 Chevy truck ?
Looking to put something similar in my 91 Chevy truck. How close are the column and brake wiring to the vehicle you just did this install? I'm not worried about the door and hood pins. Just the remote start and keyless entry. Thanks! Nice video!!
How do you hook up the relay?
What is the tachometer wire for?
thanks for stating what kind of vehicle your working on , lots of vids dont ! 👍😃
1996 s10. Do I have to change the polarity for the door locks? Would I use one or two relays?
the tachometer cable connects the same in a 97 Chevy blazer
I was just curious as to why you needed that relay? I'm installing a viper alarm with remote start in a 96 Silverado and I'm not sure if I need the relay as well. Thanks
I have a 1994 full size blazer which has the old school dashboard since they did the interior refresh in 95. It has a viper 1-way alarm right now with 3 button remote (lock, unlock, and aux which I hold down and it opens my rear window.) Do you think that it would be easier to install a new Viper/DEI alarm w/remote start since I already have a viper alarm (albeit old). I am mildly experienced with wiring in vehicles. I have installed numerous stereos, ive installed fog lights, hid's, as well as a couple sets of subwoofers and amplifiers. I have never worked on anything with as many wires as an alarm so whenever I see the pigtail for an alarm I basically shudder.
can u tell me how much the alrm system u got was and where can i find it
hows is the remote start holding up? id like to put this on my 95 sierra. but i already have an alarm on it. you know if i would be able to add this or would u have to remove that alarm?
Love me some compustar! Well not this unit so much but their CM7200 is my go to for my customers!
Where did you get vehicle wiring sheets from