So it’s got the front and rear opening diffs, along with a two speed: transmission we’re powered by a hobby wing, ax, 550 300 kv motor, so it’s the highest capacity motor they’ve got extremely powerful and very fast. This actually tops out at 45 kilometers an hour believe it or not on second gear, not that i actually drive it uh that fast all the time, uh in fact very seldomly. Do i do that because well it’s not made for that it’s not really made to to travel fast uh. This in scale representation is a crawler as well, but it’s more an over landing crawler and for the better part for the past year. It’S actually served me extremely well, so at the moment i am running it on front and rear diff locks activated, so they are locked. Međutim, you can run it without the diff locks locked. It just means you get better turning circle and, if you’re not climbing on anything um in fact, that’s probably the best way to drive it because it’s so so, smooth and linear uh. The difference between this and the rc4 drive crawlers i’ve got is chalk and cheese night and day. I prefer driving this in terms of um scale driving over and above darcy four drive products, because this just has such a better turning circle, and it is an excellent rig to actually start on. Zapravo, this is what this was. My first rig it’s now been heavily modified, kao što možete vidjeti, the remnants of what it used to be, which was a yellow 110 defender, is no longer and and, kao što možete vidjeti, it’s now, sporting, the killer body lc70 hard body.
So this is not a vehicle that you want to roll, because you will end up cracking the body and breaking a lot of things. So you’ve got to drive very very carefully as opposed to what it used to be capable of which you could actually roll. The trx4 multiple times very fast, without actually doing much damage to it, but as time progressed, i got um. I didn’t get sick of the lex and body. I just thought that i wanted to progress through the scale hard body setups, which this is so underneath. I haven’t really upgraded the diffs or anything like that. There’S really not much. You can do to traxxas trx4s. They are very much well um well, designed as they are out of the box, so you don’t really need to do much to them to actually get them to perform um very nicely. Očito, the tyres and wheels are upgraded. I am using the pitbull brave and berserker 4.35 outer diameter tyres on 1.9 Skala, 5 lug stamped bead lock wheels from rc4 drive, which is a scale representation of toyota. Uh four wheel drives. I think the land cruiser does have five lugs, not six. So correct me. If i’m wrong, there guys but i’m, not an expert at them, but i was told they are actually a five lug. So the only thing this doesn’t actually have is a winch. Međutim, it does have the fairlead there. I did take the winch out because it broke so it’s winchless at the moment, but everything else is there.
So the arb license bull bar from cc hand, also the cc hand rear um rear rack, which is the Music tub. Rack and i’ve got the the tent on top as well, which is not a functioning tent. It is just a homemade tent, but it is a represent representation of a tent so to make it look a little bit better. Također, the toolbox, you see there is also a homemade box, To je, basically there to house the 2s lipo battery that i’m using yes, i do use a 2s on this, not a 3s reason being is. Kao što sam rekao, i don’t need that much power. I don’t need the pop that a 3s actually gives, but on 2s it drives a lot more scale suspension wise i’m using at the front i’m using coilover, proline pro scalers and then at the back, cheap team, rafiko 70 mil uh coils and i went 70 mil Coils because i actually decided to ditch the cantilever setup, kao što možete vidjeti, i’m no longer using the cantilever setup that i used to have on there with the 90mm proline big ball reason being. Is it just it wasn’t a scale, uh wasn’t scale enough uh, you don’t really see cantilever setups in real vehicles, especially from out of the factory, and the other thing is. It was just too soft. It just didn’t have enough resistance there in terms of suspension um. Dakle, u osnovi, it was very, very soft at the back doesn’t matter.
What i did i actually ended up, putting the hardest springs that i could find and it still didn’t do anything it’s, just the way cantilevers are set up. I think there are a few ways you can actually mount cantilevers. You can mount them, they do have to obviously be diagonal. Uh, certainly not diagonal. They have to be um horizontal in mounting the uh shock itself. You can mount it towards the rear of the bumper uh so facing the rear bumper or you can mount it facing the front. Bumper people have had luck facing it through to the towards the front bumper, but i didn’t even bother trying. So i went a diagonal setup instead with the 70 mil team, rafiko uh shocks and as you can see it, um actually does well, as it is very well, in fact, the tyres. I could not ask for a better better set of tyres. The pitbull, brave and berserkers out of the box are just phenomenal. Zapravo, i rate them higher than pro lines. The pro lines for me, the foams that the pro lines come with, are just way too soft. I think they need to either ship them with dual stage: foams out of the box and being that the pro lines i normally use are class 1 nines it’s very hard to find foams that actually fit them. So with the brav and berserkers, they came with these foams out of the box and, kao što možete vidjeti, they’re holding up very well so the side wall is very firm but at the same time it gives enough elasticity there to climb over objects when it needs To and everything’s functioning well the only thing that really annoys me about the hobby wing quick run.
No sorry, not the quick one. The axe is the fan you don’t have to install the fan, but i uh tend to run a lot of my crawlers, not too hot, but they do get warm and i guess if it’s there, you may as well use it if it’s a protection um if It’S to protect a 500 motor, why not? You know it’s there they came with it, might as well connect it uh. You can – and i have run this without the motor without the fan before. Obviously it was a lot quieter. Međutim, it did heat up a little bit more than what it normally does with the fan on there. So uh just bear that in mind for those that buy the older version, hubby wing x550. I don’t know about the new version. I bought the this version back in may 2020 and that was at the first start point of covert lockdowns, where you couldn’t get anything in stock. So this was the last one that um hobby man in around my area actually had, and i decided to just take it off their hands, but it was a very expensive motor. It was 500 australian dollars which is roughly 300 usd or 350 usd, so it wasn’t cheap. So this rig actually happens to be my most expensive wine in terms of setup, because i’ve purchased a lot of items for this that were mistakes, na primjer, i’ve gone through. I think six set sets of shock absorbers now until i settled on the um team, rafiko 70 mils at the rear and the um pro scalar fronts, 90 millimeter fronts, but before that actually had a set of big bore pro lines, which were by themselves 250 dollars And also had a set of uh pro scalers, then uh.
I think a couple of sets of uh different, numerous ones as well, that’s just the shocks, and then i went through my wheel and tire period where i went through pro line: shooters proline 4.19. Pro line 4.75, so i went through um. You know a lot of tires a lot of wheels until i settled on this setup here, uh cosmetically the bull bar is fairly expensive. On this around about 150 australian dollars, then you’ve got the rear rack, which is another 150. Then you’ve got the the roof rack as well that’s another i think seventy dollars and then the rear bumper, which is the metal bumper that’s, another again eighty dollars so um. Then you got ta factor in the rc. These are actually genuine, rc4 drive, wheels, um and i did actually buy these uh and they set me back. Mislim 110 dollars are set shipped and then you’ve got the the tyres that are on it as well. Then i’ve got the full under body protection as well, so all the metal uh items on the bottom of the chassis to protect all the plastic stuff and that’s. The only thing about traxxas, i guess, is the fact that there’s, a lot of plastic compare in compare in comparison to the rc4 drive products which are all metal. These have plastic upgradeable, Iako, so they are plastic, diffs and plastic axles. Međutim, you can upgrade them to alloy, Mislim, or metal, but you’ll be spending a lot of money just to do that and that’s just basically for bling and cosmetics.
So i didn’t just i couldn’t – justify spending 150 dollars on you know just a set of or a pair of axles that are identical to what i’ve got. Apart from the fact that they’re metal on the upgraded versions – and they add a little bit of weight – which you can add yourself by buying 10 sets of um of lead, lead strips from your local tire center that you can just stick on um if it’s a Showcase vehicle like if it’s a mantle vehicle that you’re gon na keep on your mantel – i guess it’s one thing you can do, but i decided not to opt for the metal bling on the bottom because it’s just for me, it’s no point. I actually do drive this rig and i don’t abuse it, but i do actually scratch it. So if you’re just going to spend 150 Ili 200 for a pair of axles that you’re just going to scratch the crap out of i guess for me, i just couldn’t justify that, whereas the rc4 drive products came standard with metal, um like the o2s are actually Metal to begin with, so you know you don’t have a choice but them and when you scratch them they do. It does hurt for the first, the first couple of scratches, but after that you get used to it on the yoda twos. But i am very proud of this vehicle. It was the first one i built.
It was the first scale rig that i actually did, and it does bring me pride because it took me a long time to actually get it to the way it is now it’s. Not perfect, it does still have its few flaws, but out of all of my crawlers it is the most capable. You know when i say capable, i mean it’s, an all rounder. You can take this thing everywhere and have fun. You can actually bash it around. If you want and drive it fast, as i said, it’s got a top speed of roughly 45k an hour, the way it’s set up and that’s. If you set the hobbywing bluetooth systems all to 100 forward speed and 100 everything uh, i don’t do that, though i keep it on 40 forward speed, Mislim, Ili 50 forward speed and 30 reverse so it’s top speed. Za mene, right now is around about 10k, which is roughly seven miles per hour six miles per hour, which is enough. I mean it’s, a crawler it’s, not um. Za mene, i don’t use this as a basher. I don’t use it as a race car. It actually is uh to crawl and to um represent scale over landing, but um i’ve done this course with full diff locks, activated front and rear. Kao što sam rekao, i have actually done this course without actually activating any diff locks and i’ve also done it with just the rear. Diflux activated look it’s either way, i think it’s just a matter of um driving it um.
You know carefully and, and the way you drive has obviously got a lot to do with if it’s gon na climb everything without needing to you know double up on on any lines that you do. What i mean doubling up is obviously having to reverse out of a line that you’ve uh you’ve committed to which, kao što možete vidjeti, i haven’t yet reversed out of anything everything’s just being forward speed, but um that’s, because i’ve got both diff locks on, which is A little bit cheating um, but i have to do that because i’m talking driving and you know watching at the same time. So if i wasn’t actually recording i’d be doing this without any diff locks to see how far i could get with before i’d have to activate the diff locks just to see, you know and i’ve done that before. Kao što sam rekao, i have completed this course without any difflox on and this rig is capable of it so side healing on this vehicle. Funnily enough, even though it’s coil sprung is fairly good, um it’s fairly decent, you get roughly 28 Stupnjeva, Mislim, of side hill. Before it tips over um that’s, because it’s it’s, basically just um almost zero weight at the back, because it’s just a tray or a tub but um as you can see just yeah, To je, wonderful too, to crawl with and that’s the beauty about, traxxas it’s, um it’s. One it’s a rig that i would highly recommend to first timers.
It is not cheap uh. I think the cheapest rig that you can buy with the opening and closing diff locks is a builder’s kit without a body on it. So without the lexan body – and it goes for around about 700 Ili 800 australian dollars – then if you buy say the land rover defender or the bronco or the k5 blazer they go for around about 1 000, give or take a few dollars retail you can buy Them second hand, but a lot of the ones you find second hand you’d find are fairly beat up. I mean my chassis, i wouldn’t call beat up but it’s, not a lot it’s, no um it’s, no new chassis. Očito, everything is scratched up underneath because of the way uh, these things are driven. So in fact, this doesn’t really retain much of the stock vehicle anymore everything’s been disassembled and – and you know, new things put in their place, but that basically concludes this um crawl. I do thank you. Thank you guys for joining me once again. If there are any questions, kao i uvijek, please feel free to ask i’m always available to answer any of your questions. I do want to thank you all personally, especially the loyal fans out there that watch all the videos. Every time i release one i’ve been very busy with the fj40 build for the last couple of months, so i haven’t been able to document or or actually do any new videos.
Apart from the latest crawl video, i did or the test video in the backyard of the fj40, so i hope you’ve enjoyed this one and yes until the next video guys.