What are we doing in the kitchen? We'Re, not cooking anything today. What we're gon na do is build a kit, so we're gon na start a new series called in the kitchen with derek where we build the stuff on my kitchen table so welcome. I don't know where to look in the air there there, but let's grab a beer and get to work Music. To be fair. I hate unbox videos because all you do is unbox stuff and i get that's the name of the video. But today this is what we're building the tamiya formula e gen 2 car that's, what it says not a very weird name but it's, a tco1 chassis, shaft, driven with cantilever suspension, so let's do a terrible, unboxing video for a second, because it's just gon na be Some parts all right, first things: first here, let's get uh, that's, what's, important and let's. Look at this box kits are never really fun to look at because inside is really just a bunch of bags with parts together, tamiya likes to use, parched trees and lots of them. In fact, you'll get some extra parts for some other cars that you may not ever have known about, or will never own but they're in there, not too many of them. Some extra body mounts – maybe some weird plastic pieces that just don't make any sense in this kit, but anyway take everything out and organize it. A little bit stickers for the body.
The body on tamiya can be another project in itself, which is why we're not gon na do it in this video. But this is a multi piece body that requires a few paint colors and a lot of stickers and a lot of patience to make. It look. Good here i am just organizing everything, just kind of like spreading it out a little bit and it's kind of boring. This is why we don't do unbox videos and you're. Just gon na hear me babble in the background, but uh spread everything out. Look at the trees kind of get used to it, get the instructions set up and then get to work. You can trim all the pieces off, but that would be dumb because they're labeled a tree b tree d tree with letters and numbers and all that stuff. Just to help you, the tamiya instructions are pretty easy to go by very easy to look at very simple, to follow nothing crazy. On those i like to use a plate to put all my screws on this way when i knock it off, it, doesn't knock them around. They don't go flying and just a better contrast on white for me, and i just go through each of the bags. As you can see, i made everything go flying had to find some eclipse don't lose everything i like to get everything open with screws. The tamiya kit does have a lot of same size screws with the same millimeter, so six millimeter, eight millimeter 10 millimeter cap head screw phillips head button head, so just pay attention.
I had to run and get some thread lock. It wasn't included in this kit, which is odd because, usually to me, it includes a little kit. You'Ll see me fight to open it for about an hour, but i edit the video we get rolling here, it's, pretty easy. One of the things with this kit is that there's, a lot of parts and some of the hinge pin supports, require you to put a screw in the chassis and then a screw through a like three parts. It was a little bit of pain in the ass, but once you figured out how to balance it, which you'll see quickly in this video later um, you get the hang of it it's pretty easy. The car is symmetrical. So all the front – and back of this are the same arms are the same, so you don't have to worry about front and rear, just left and right, easy stuff, not a problem. This isn't a build video, so i'm not going to go through all the steps that i stumbled on, but i will point some out uh here, you're gon na see me mess with this hinge, pin for quite a while. So i do look stupid, but hey that's part of the video. I don't really edit me to me to look smarter or better take some patience and figuring out what you're doing wrong of having every piece fall off 10 times on all four corners, but that's me.
So i built maybe more than one kit in my life, but i haven't built one in a while we're full of ready to runs nowadays and a kid's kind of rare, so my tool game kind of sucks. So i had to run around to find the right tool, so one of the important tips, if you're new to building kits or you're, building kits for the millionth time, but haven't built it in years, get the right tools because it really sucks to have to walk Around your house and try to find some needle nose and the right uh, 1.5. 2 millimeter. I mean i got this fancy dancy makita here i don't even have the right bit so i'm, using old fashioned uh elbow grease and i'm gon na tamiya phillips head this thing up, but uh just wanted to pop back in and tell you how i thought in The beginning of building a kit goes really slow. You'Re trying to figure everything out, get your bearings look at the instructions start snapping together. Once you get past the first few pages so i'm on page one bag, one we're, not at the d bag. Yet charlie. You know who i'm talking about, but we'll get to the d bag. The most important, all one a little taken, speed, control action screw these things together, all right! Welcome back to the kitchen and we're cooking right now, because uh we're on page two and what that means is, i got the suspension.
Arms installed a little free, a little pain in the butt, because you got to put a little screw on the bottom and wiggle in there. You need little fingers and here's one of the things i don't like about building kits. Sometimes they make you put the electronics in before you're even close to electronics, and i wasn't really thinking about them other than putting this baby in there. So uh we're putting the super duper teakin that's a servo. I was gon na, say, speed control because you don't know uh that's, not common to say, but they do make amazing servos programmable. You don't need to center it it's a centered by electronic stop. So there's. No physical stop, which is awesome and also it has a metal horn i'm, not going to use that cheap, crappy piece of garbage servo saver. That comes in this kit, sorry to me, but that's it's junk. So this will make the steering and handling a lot better. So use quality, electronics, look into my eyes: don't use cheap, so here's, another tip. When you're building the kit, you probably have to read what electronics you need, because i just tried installing this sweet full size teakin on a car that wants a low profile servo. So i'm gon na skip the servo installation until the end instead of in the beginning – and hopefully i don't have to take the car apart, because i don't have a low profile servo right now, and i want to be honest with you.
Why are servos still this big, because we have like 9 000 inch, ounces put 5 pound feet, slugs or whatever and it's still this tall from 1972? So how about we just go all slim and then i don't have to run into this stupid problem yeah! No one of my favorite things about building tamiya kits is that tamiya files are insane and they'll look for everything i screw up every word. I miss every step i screw up and the stupidity of my videos, which is again part of the fun that i like to put in there. Just so people can say stuff, and you know we can argue it's fun, online um but it's difficult, because sometimes you're building and doing the video at the same time it's just not as easy as it seems. If i was sitting alone doing this, i would never tell you i screwed up, it would just come out and even though, when i burnt my fingers, soldering the wires in – and i forget, didn't put all the electronics in put it all together. But in the end, one of the smart things to do is make sure you have your electronics lined up motor speed control, know what you're going to run. I didn't really know what class they run on this and the local track is running 17. Fives. No timing and all that stuff, so putting the electronics in later is better for me because i wasn't sure, but it just creates extra steps in the future.
Through every kit, this kit uses a center spur gear, not a diff, so it's a full time. Four wheel drive and you have to put whatever diff weight you want in the front. It comes with shock oil, which they say they put in there. But realistically you should probably put something thicker in the front thinner in the rear just to tune this but suspension right and go on the forums. One of the things i didn't like about this was the diffs that's, a plastic tee in the middle and all the gears were on a tree. It seemed smooth, but to be honest with you, you can get a better quality, diff and i'm sure they sell an optional one. I know i saw a spool and a one way which could work in certain tracks. Here i am again fumbling to get the little pin through the coupler it's, paying the butt, but if you're smarter than the pin, eventually it works. Just like, i was smarter eventually, and it was edited for time because it probably took me much longer than you see here again kind of fun skipped all the fluids again and back to the guy behind the camera. Just so you know, i recorded a whole bit about me yelling about these diffs, but we're gon na go over it again still in the kitchen it's day, two i'm wearing the same shirt, so it looks like it's not day, two, so uh gopro beeping.
In the background diffs aren't, my favorite, they got plastic gears they're on a tree. You got to sand down all the little bits to make sure it's smooth doesn't come with the right oil. It says, use shock oil. No, we need the right oil, so i have to go to hobby shop tomorrow, uh to fill these so to the right. So when i go to the track and race that i have the right, diff action, also progress on the chassis got. The steering set up here comes with metal bushings, not plastic, uh, but metal. But why not just include all the bearings there's a come on. Give me charge me two dollars more for all the bearings tell me why just put them in there, but we're almost there got cantilever suspension going all this fun stuff, so uh, just like i just said i'm, not on camera or being recorded uh let's, get back To the uh overhead dingleberry view here and uh we'll check back into my thoughts while i'm building it. So the drivetrain is pretty smooth, despite kind of being three pieces and no slipper at all in the center. So remember that when you're going to run bigger motors and pretty simple stuff moving on to the shocks, they are plastic body plastic everything you kind of want to get better ones. But again, this is a tamiya kit and you know uh people will make fun of traxxas all day long for including plastic shocks, but it's pretty common in a lot of things.
Hey. This is an upgrade culture. We don't want to have all the options out of the box. You want to have some joy of hey. I have better stuff than you and if it all came in the box, we wouldn't have uh better stuff than your buddy, but these are straightforward. Uh shocks with again plastic body: uh, you get piston options. I think i use the two piston and both and then it will be 35 weight and all four the odd things about these shocks is: it has to clear the cantilever and fit under the body, so they are lay down style and you have to put a Big spacer on the shock shaft, because you're not actually using off road, throw in the shocks, you're going to be using very minimal and it just got to fit through everything which you'll see later. In the end, i did put a tkin, 17.5 and that's. What we're going to be using locally when we race a spec class that they set up i'm, not sure what tires yet. I don't ask all the questions at the right times, but i will get to them uh once you got all the shocks on and started. Screwing everything together kind of at the end, and it starts to look like a car. The bad news is that i have to take it all apart and put the electronics back in. But this is what we do when we're in the kitchen and trying to make a video and not actually get things done in the smart way.
But in order to make a video that makes sense so again back to that ugly, ass guy in the green shirt, let him talk, he kind of sounds the same as me: there's, something in movies, called continuity and watch a movie and see that it takes place In a day – but you know they filmed it over three months and the guy always has the same beard, you know the hairs are always in place. The scar, the makeup, the boogers, whatever until you notice, like a bag of chips and game of thrones, some starbucks cups and all that stuff that's when the continuity goes out the window, if you're watching this you're in my kitchen and i've been building. This make sure i have the right name here: tc01 it's, the formula e car from tamiya, and normally you could sit down and probably pop this baby out in, like maybe five hours, if you're good, you know not, including the body that's that's we're, not even touching The body yet, but because i have a job and probably drink some wine and watch some tv basketballs on whatever's on it's. Taking me longer, i tried to wear the same shirt, which is was hard because it sat on this chair. So i kind of looked the same, but this is a different shirt, so, if you're paying attention, this is like the starbucks and game of thrones. Here i am um a couple of thoughts here, since i am going to actually go race.
This i did not put fluids in here because i didn't have the right fluids, nor did they include the fluid for the diff shock oil. I probably could have got away with, but uh called up. My buddy tony and he told me uh – run 35 weight. 500. 000 weight in the front diff and 50 in the rear, which is almost locked in the front, but he said that that's what works! So you know we do what all the racers do put some bubble gum underneath the tires and i'll i'll run that too, because that's the only way it can be fast. Some quick thoughts on the tamiya kit here in traditional tamiya fashion, i feel like they have indentured slaves that only make molds to see how many parts they can actually make to put in a kit. Like you know, we're used to puzzles that were 50 and then you got up to a thousand and then five thousand, and then you kick yourself. This is like a five thousand piece puzzle. Um in to me a fashion there's, some complicated like why couldn't they just make this easier and make it one part, but that's sort of the fun to build uh plastic shocks. We got these big giant uh front extensions, so they reach the cantilever uh. A maddening thing for me is this car uses phillips heads and allen screws and of nine different lengths, so it's, six millimeter, eight millimeter, ten millimeter and then of varying sizes and heads.
I drives me insane so please at some point, just use the same: freaking screws, no more phillips heads. I mean we're, one step away from a flathead screwdriver on that we've graduated. To allen you know, a torx bolt would make more sense than phillips heads, but here we are philip sense. Uh. I did have fun building this because it does look pretty sick uh. I don't i didn't get to the body. Yet the body's gon na be a whole nother video because in typical to me, a fashion their bodies take longer than the build, sometimes because there's 10 000 stickers, which doesn't look too bad to be honest, but usually everything's a sticker. And you have to paint stuff and then re sticker it and sticker the paint and paint the stickers. All this i don't even know, but in the end this is going to be tested on track. So i don't have the electronics in which means i built this car, but i am going to take it all the way apart again, because the diffs, unlike a modern uh car, are not easy access. One, two, three, four, five six. I i really screwed myself by putting them in there, but it's, probably about 30 minutes to get the diffs out on each side. It'S not really a big deal, but it's, not two four screws and the disc pops out and you can tune it motor access. I would say, unless you have a banana as a allen, wrench there's no way to access this and they give you phillips heads for motor screws.
You know again what the hell you know i don't get it, but so to take the motor out. You have to actually take the center out and you are screwing in the plastic, so that means every time you take the center brace out you're kind of screwing the plastic a little bit. So i would recommend not farting around with this too much and figure out what works and leave that in there i'm sure they will make a metal brace in the middle, so eventually that'd be less of a problem, but overall welcome to the kitchen. This is part. One of this build, i will do an update once i wire in all this stuff. I need a shorty servo. I need to somehow jam a speed control on here. It goes right in here some receiver. All the electronics go underneath this stuff it's all hidden. So again, stuff that you can't access once it's in there. I should have put it in first but um, i didn't so uh again, i was figuring out what gear i had and what was actually raced so tamiya tc01. I got to make sure i said that right because there's so many chassis and even though i just built it for three days, i still don't, remember formula e uh car, which i don't know why that's a weird name too. But the full review is going to be in the next issue when i say this next, like you're watching and waiting for an issue to come out.
It'S in the issue of velocity rc cars magazine where i'm going to have the review there'll, be a full video review of the action and how it actually handled, and also the body video back here in the kitchen, maybe i'll, cook a sandwich. You don't even cook sandwiches, but i'll cook, one for you and then come build. I got some exciting stuff coming. I can't release yet but uh. You know it's around me and uh come back velocity, rc cars magazine watch us live on, youtube's run mondays at 5. 30, currently that may change so pay attention. It'S like need the old tv guide to see when we're on we babble a lot and we do a youtube channel, obviously you're on it.