Here now i don’t know if you saw the review video i did of this, but i was mentioning a problem that i’d have with the drive cup, where the dog bone had partially come out and sort of mangled that a bit so i’ve got spare parts here. It’S part f, a 505 b, so i have replaced the mangled drive cut, but it was significantly more difficult than i expected. It did involve a hammer and a mole wrench, which i wasn’t really expecting. So i was thinking this is the sort of thing that a beginner might buy and then, if it goes wrong, they might not know how to fix it, and i say it was a little bit more difficult to do this than i was expecting so let’s have A look so if you have a look in there that’s the one that i have replaced so that’s, the one i haven’t replaced, it doesn’t actually need replacing yet because i don’t think it’s too mangled uh. But the actual issue comes about when this is on full steering and it lands, and i think the wheel and the suspension sort of bends back and then the dog bone can work its way out of there and causes damage to the drive cut. So it’s a little bit of an issue with these not sure. If that’s going to be a worry long term, they do do a universal joint set but that’s quite expensive.

So i’m gon na replace this for now and see how i get on let’s get the wheel off, which is a two and a half mil hex. So it’s a bit unusual. This there’s a screw fixing the wheel on rather than there being an axle with a nut on. So your hub looks like that, and this bit just comes off, so we need to be able to get to the back of this i’m going to take this up right off, which is these two screws, so it’s a two mil hex? Okay. So that is that bit and what you’ve got to do is extract it from the bearing there and also there’s a bearing on the back of it and it’s actually quite tricky to get this out. You’D think you’d just be able to push that through, but the other one took quite a bit of force, and i think this one will do too so no amount of pushing seems to get that out of there. So i’m going to do is bridge it across the jaws of the mold grips here and then i’m going to put this screw back in just part of the way. So i’ve got something to hit now it might be. The nut comes out the back of this before this comes out. Um. We do need to get the nut anyway, so that won’t be a bad thing, but um let’s just see how it goes. Music, okay, so this has come out before the nut has come out of that cup there and i will need to get that nut out of there.

So i’ll do that in a minute. Okay, so you still got that bearing in the upright there and you’ve got the other bearing which is still attached to the cup, and this is equally difficult to remove. So before i get the bearing off i’m just going to get the nut out of there. So i’m, going to do is put the screw in a few turns and then wallop that Music. So you need to get a spanner on the end of that. So what i’m going to do is use the jaws of the mold grip again and put that in there and do it up as tight as i can, without it actually sort of gripping the plastic too much and then to wallop that so the width of the Jaws is only just a bit wider than the depth of this cup, so i’m only going to be able to shift it a little bit, but hopefully that’ll be enough. So you can see that’s moved a little way, but it’s still too difficult to get that off. So i’ve got to be honest. I can’t actually remember what i did at this point when i was doing the first one, but what i’m going to do now is just to support the front of that with another wrench there more space behind it. So i just need something to poke that through the rest of this and use this tamiya wrench Music. Yes, you can see this one’s quite mangled as well.

So i think these are a bit of a weak point really at the front uh, where they’ve got a steer and i think the ones at the back are okay. I will check i might have to look at those universal drive. Shafts first need to get the nut back in here, and it goes in with the rounded end up. So what we’re going to do is put the screw in and use that to put the nut back in Music, so i’m, not sure if that’s, quite seated in there. What you can do is to put this bit on and put the screw in from this side, and then you can pull the nut in right that tight and now you can see that is well seated in there all right. So now we’ve got all the fun of getting the bearings back on here and they won’t just push so we’re going to use the wrench again. So i need to set the jaws at a width where they’re sort of touching the inner ring of the bearing there. So it’s pushing on that bit and not just the outer part of it Music that’s about right right. So we need to get that through there. We’Ve got the same problem that it’s incredibly tight. So i need to sort of put that across the jaws there and hammer it. I don’t want to damage this plastic drive cup, so i’m going to do is use the dog bone instead and put that in there and hammer the top of that Music.

Okay. So, just to make sure that’s gone fully through, as we put this hex piece on again and then use the screw to pull the nut back. So let’s use that to stop that spinning, Music, okay, so that’s nice and snug let’s get it back on the car. So the steering arm just pops on there it’s just lining up the pivot balls with the screw Music. Okay. So there it is now i’ve had a look at the back ones and they look fine. I think it’s, mostly just the steering ones at the front, because they’ve got to work at various different angles and especially if you have a problem like i did, but the dog bone popped out and then that’s all mangled it as it went so i’ll see how That goes, and if i keep having a problem, i’ll have a look at those universal drive. Shafts worth just saying this set does include the nuts the non slip washers there and also you’ve got all the cups for all the way around at both ends. So i’ve got another two of those because they’re the ones for the back, because the back ones are unlikely to wear. Then i’ve got another two for the front should i need them and you also get the cups for the ends of the central drive shaft there.