KYOSHO MP10T NITRO TRUGGY KIT AFTER BUILD AND REVIEW
Now this is the uh. The video i was gon na do a build series, but i made a video. It was about an hour and a half long and it was boring as so really we’re going to leave. That alone i and i built the video – i have footage all the way up to on the center diff and after that, the camera was just in the way trying to manage the camera and uh focus on. What i was doing was just too much going on. It would start taking fun out of what i was doing. So i killed the camera action so right now, we’re going to go over the parts that i the the tools that i use the materials that i use. The oils and uh also we’re going to go over a few parts, we’re going to go over the whole. What i experienced on the build and what i did what i feel is important to talk about so first thing. First, i use my mfps, of course, my speed, my speed drive fits um got ta have a caliber. I use my fourth inch, uh screwdriver drill and the drill. I explained the drill in a minute and um. Of course you got to have a shock shaft uh. We got that my hot racing, one calibers let’s, get to the. Of course, you got your team associated black grease whenever you do any work to to any of these cars, you have to use black grease.
If you don’t, you need to look, you need to research, it um get a little zoom in on this okay uh. I also bought, i was running along green slime, but i couldn’t find it anywhere, so they also had at the hobby shop. They had pro tec uh over in grease. So i used the products i give a try. I used to protect o ring grease and they also had the uh pro tec. Uh uh white friction uh gear grease, so i didn’t use this. I didn’t use this for a simple reason on my gears. I use fast 80’s so and that’s inside the dips and also around uh around where the bearings go. I always also use the grease those two so in this kit this is a bastion set up people. My whole kit, my whole setup, was not for racing at all. I ran 50k in the front shocks. I ran 60k in the rear shocks and my in my front diff. I ran 60k on the front dips, but my shotgun let’s go back there. I ran 50 uh 50 weight in the front and 60 weight in the rear. On my uh front diff, i ran 60k in my front deal for the different. I ran 200k on my center disc and i ran 100k in my rear diff. I just want to give me my maximum, especially for this size, for the a scale truckee it’s going to give my maximum power to the ground.
Of course, you got your snips and uh just regular holders right there that’s the that’s, the wrench that came with that’s. The coyote wrench and uh these are spare parts spray peels we’re gon na i’m gon na go over the car in a minute. It also came with the uh, with the 13 tooth clutch build. It came with the uh flywheel that’s, also in the same bronze aluminum. That the whole kit is in and then it came with the aluminum clutch shoes in the springs. Of course, the booklet booklet was real good. It gave it was really easy to follow two different languages, so you have a problem with that and also has it at the back of it. A nice exploded view for parts and part numbers. So if you ever need parts, you’ll never have problems finding what you need with this booklet. It covers it all all right and we’re going to get into the car. This is the platform people problem real quick. This is my platform, all right, we’re, going to discuss i’m going to go to the to the rift well to the front first we’re going to go to the battlefront. Now this kit came with, of course, like i said, the bronze aluminum spindles front. Spindles came with these coyote shocks beautiful the way they uh the way they had them. It came with uh two different styles of pistons. I just used the original ones with the uh four holes.
Instead of the eight holes inside of the pistons, these uh, there are pills everywhere on this on this kit, everywhere, everything’s fully adjustable that’s. What i notice about this uh this kit, everything is fully adjustable from hit the pills up front on the a block it has. Its peels on a b block, let me give them a little zoom in on that focus. Okay, it has pills on the b block, fully adjustable people, it’s it’s amazing, and how much the adjustability of this kit um. The dips were machined and cut great, especially the uh, the inside gears, the uh already gears to go inside. The diff forgot what they call them, not i’m, not talking about any. Also, of course, the pinion gear connecting to the actual diff, the uh, the girls, the gear itself on the diff great, like i said, with the aluminum of course, the unheard no carbon fiber which it’s aesthetic anyway, but the aluminum was let’s, go over the kit aluminum. You have the a b c and d blocks and aluminum, and if you see those peels fully adjustable, you have the uh aluminum shock tower it’s, all bronze, bronze aluminum and it reads: kyosho on it: um the motor mounts, bronze aluminum even amount to the chassis of Bronze aluminum right there it’s, the bronze aluminum. You have the uh, what they call it ackerman arm bronze aluminum, but even that has three adjustments on it. Everything is adjustable on here.
People, everything front shock, tower bronze aluminum. Of course the uh servo tray bronze aluminum. These are the spacers that go under. It goes under the uh cir. Well, the servos go on top of these spacers center diff. The top of it is the bronze aluminum. The rest of it is plastic. Look at that on that center depth. Look at the brakes! People look at those brake pads front and rear they’re thick it’s all get out get some light on it. Try to show you that’s, even that’s, a worse position where i was at okay. There we go have the rear of it in the front for the center diff, those with those brake pads. These are going to stop on a diamond look how thick they are they’re going to last forever. Now i did all my linkage. Don’T have my servos. Yet the only upgrade parts that i’m going to do aluminum off the back i’m, going to upgrade this, which this plastic is hard, but i always put at least on the back of it i’m going to upgrade that to uh the chassis, the rear chassis brakes up To aluminum um i have to have to get this plastic uh the linkage for the the throttle servo the throttle, uh servo arm this dual arm. I need to get that in aluminum and i’m, not looking for too much aluminum upgrade on that that’s. The best that’s pretty much the major, oh yeah, and also the rear hubs.
They were plastic. I need that little with them and i’m gon na see how the center diff hold up the center diff tower. I’Ll doubt if i have an issue with that and like i said basically even on the rear adjustability for days, they even had adjustable. They even had adjustable uh pills for for the rear hubs, and all of that it just made it was just ridiculous. It took me a while to figure out which one i want to run for a bastion set up with racing. Oh you have to test. You would have to put this card and got these. You have to take put these together, left and right. You have to change these at the track, just to see what will work best for you and how it works with the different degrees and everything to see which one will work better, for which condition you’re running in it can get. It can get out of hand. This is this type of uh platform that you have options a lot of them and you would basically have to test it out just to see what’ll work best for you. This is the uh coyote, mp10t, shruggie, so i’m, pretty sure the boogie, the buggy is made. The same way, i know they’re supposed to be doing some revisions, so, but you know i got ta. Have it they’re supposed to be doing some revision, so i’m gon na wait, sit back and wait and see what they do to it.
Of course, kyosha always have these. I always have a cotter pins, which makes it quick and easy to open stuff up. So just pull the cotter pin out and open it up. I have nothing in there right now: that’s the uh that’s, the receiver tray, and then you have a the battery tray of course right here, oh yeah, one more thing, i’m talking about put this back in here, real quick, all right! One more thing you see this has blank right here, there’s a blank. This is where your switch goes. It comes with one with a switch and it come from one without the switch. So, of course, i don’t run switches on my eight on these eight scales, and so basically i want a blank one man, i really don’t have much else to say about this. This is all beautiful, especially this fuel tank does not have a clunk system. It actually has a uh, i don’t know if you can see in there, it has a system where it’s a tube to go all the way down to the bottom of the tank. As you can see, it hooks up right here, so it’s, basically a tube where i guess the brass fitting goes in there to the bottom and it comes up, so your fuel filter is actually on the outside. That is your filter. So basically, if you flip over upside down – and you had a clunk, you won’t have clunk issues, it’ll work in a different way.
Now i’ve been used this and not or anything so i can’t say how good that system will be, but i’m telling you it’s different than the other ones that’s. What the fuel system tube goes connects to this brass fitting and goes all the way down to the bottom, and it sucks from there once again. It’S the uh kyosho mp10 end of build, as you see i’m. Also, having i’m gon na also also have the video running it’s probably already ran by now of parts of this being built before i just cut it all off and called in the damn day. I only had a few hours here, not even hours, sometimes 30 minutes to work on it sometime hours. Sometime 45 minutes when i got off work depends on how late i got here so once again, i’m be sending the body off. So we ain’t got to worry about that. The body to this kit it’s going to be getting painted so i’m. Not i haven’t done. I haven’t cut it or done anything to it i’m, going to let the paint the painter to deal with that situation. I got ta order servos. I also need servos from other uh eighth scale, my my jq buggy, so i need to order four of those and i need two receivers. So that’ll be a pretty penny and i also got send a few of these engines off. Also yeah, i forgot also the bronze aluminum pieces on the top right there on the wing, not a fan of the wing it’s, pretty pretty plain simple.
I actually like the pro lines better, but i don’t know how easy it is to get that stuff anymore. So we’ll see what i think they call it pro line.