So you sound crazy you’re on video right now, Music. I would greatly appreciate Music. Okay, this is the drive rc supra body run about 70 bucks. Proline just came out with a super body tube, so you have some options, but i saw this one on my friend’s drag rig and i wanted to get one stickers cool license. Plate frame, stickers, you lose smoke. This is awesome. I like this one they’re, pretty close. I want to see uh the pro line, one right up next to the drive rc just to see if you can see any big differences, but these ones look radical. So this, on top of that we’ll see 22. it’s going to be a nice little setup, enjoy the build okay just trying to pick a paint for the super drag car. We have metallic red metallic red, regular, bright, yellow orange, deep, forge, green or racing green. All canada’s big blue light: blue black, regular black sea foam like a mustard yellow, and this one is a two tone like a chameleon, so those are the choices for the color, so let’s pick out a color and we’ll paint this bad boy. I want it to stand out so it’s gon na kill black and green um red’s good, but probably also not gon na stand out there’s. Just these colors see if one would be pretty cool i’m leaning towards yellow that yellow right here i want it to be bright, so let’s take these two off of the table.
Okay, this orange is pretty sweet, though too i’m gon na have to do some spray checks with these guys. So, okay, we’re gon na open up our drive, rc super body and get the sucker painted sticker sheet cool basking stickers and chase the bubbles out for the outer edge. Hello. Welcome to episode two of the low c 22 supra drag build in this episode. We’Re, focusing mostly on this drive rc body. This is a super body. These things are amazing. You can find them on facebook. He does not have a normal retail store, but it is well worth it go ahead and check them out. As you can see, we went with the ps6 tamiya, yellow paint. Let me know what color you would have picked see. I got some little mess up right there, maybe a little too much. I was able to fix that little run by actually adding more paint and letting gravity pull it. The other direction. Okay, a little recap today, so we opened up our low c 22 chassis, this guy here and um. We got the roller kit. You can get the rtr, but we got the roller because we wanted to run the stock class 3300 will get me into 13.5 turn setup that’s. What we’re doing with this guy so pretty pumped on that and we’re going to be drag racing this soon, so that’s tight and then the body? Let me take you over here, so this is the body um.
They don’t come with stickers for the vents on the hood, so i had to tape those off, but basically something like that. All right go ahead and flip that over and uh we’ll be back painting the rest of this video got some more ps, six yellow ps1 white time for paint. Okay, a few cute things when you’re painting, rc bodies, when you take it directly out, do not touch the inside with your oily fingers or anything like that. Get some gloves right away blow it off of some air and get going. You want to use a very light tack, coat to start and be patient. You want to give about 10 minutes between coats of paint, both duratrax and tamiya. Make lexan paint that you’re going to need to use, keep in mind. The tamiya cans are ridiculously small amount and i ended up using three full cans to get this yellow on the body and the wing and one can of white as a base undercoat, you can use different undercoats to get different effects. Black silver white, blue, underneath different colors, the transparency will give different effects. Overall, this paint job went really well with these vents. There were no masking stickers, so i masked it off. You could use a black or a silver. I decided to try a tactic and use both give it like a great effect. So after the yellow goes in and we do, the peel you’ll see the technique i used and the outcome.
It came out. Pretty sweet just stayed patient and came back every 10 minutes with thin layers. Put it up to the light, so you can see with the light where the thin spots are and you’ll be fine. One thing that’s nice is this paint flashes nicely? So if you get some orange peel or even some runs, you can add to that and that paint will flash and settle in together and smooth out. You want to take your time. It was about. At this point. I realized how much paint this body actually needs. This is a 1 8 scale, so if you’re used to painting the little tenth scales like regular tamiyas or hpi cars, this took about twice as much paint so be prepared. So that’s one can right there. Okay, this is coming out good we’re. Just looking for the spots that look blotchy or thin so on the doors there a little around the windshield, mostly on the doors, though, and on the rear, a pillars, or at least on this uh, this side there so that’s what we’re gon na hit this time. The next time i do a light color, i will probably use a dark color for the undercoat. The white worked out. Fine, because i think i have enough of the yellow in there it’s, where it didn’t really have any transparency issues now we’re getting to the good stuff. Here comes unmasking the vents. If you grab the tape inside from the corner edge a little bit and just give it a pull, it’ll pull up a little flap and you can pull it off.
Sometimes, when you go to grab the edge, you scrape the paint line and it’s noticeable and that’s the worst after a really long and good paint job. You don’t want to scratch it. So here i did a very light layer of the silver where it didn’t really cover it. You could still see through and then i took the black and kind of filled that in the back and it came out pretty good you’ll see the effect when the body’s flipped over. Tell me what you guys think set aside a weekend evening, because these paint jobs could take a while okay, so we need to find the wheel well location and center it. So what i did was, i took this rod and i went from ax center of the axle to the center of the axle and then i took another piece. This is just aluminum filler rod for tig welding, but then i was able to bend it up at a 90 degrees and then i can use that to find the center line. For my tires right, there just make sure that those are ninetied up, so we’re gon na make a mark at the very top of the arches and then we’ll be able to center those up right. Along our tires, we can cut them out. One part of this body that was tricky is cutting out the wheel wells there’s, no real, clear line, uh molded into the body for you to follow.
So i used these two methods. Well, a few. I used three methods and those three together allowed me to get a good fitment, but you can see here i’m using the tires themselves, and then i also made that rod tool that gave me the center of the axle. So you can use these tricks or if you have a better way, hey go with that. I ended up using the same size as the front tire and that’s a good thing to cut out the back tire so that the slicks tuck up under there kind of like a tub set up. Because if you cut all the way up to the size of the big slick on the rear, then you’re gon na lose that tucked look. So we left some material over this wheel. Well and then i brought this one down a little. So a little bit of fender over the front wheel and then i’ll trim this up depending on how it looks once i get the body, holes mounted and we’ll expose the tire as much as we want with that side. Tricky careful too, because this pin through the scissors i notice on certain spots, so you can see my finger right. There wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle all the way up right there, yeah that is annoying, so be careful, here’s, the final fitment of the body and getting the body pins and mounts to line up. So i just centered it up.
I used the whole grease trick. Put a dab of grease touched, the body down flip it over where the grease was is where my holes went just be very careful. If you mess up wipe it off and start over, you really want to get the body straight in the holes in one spot. Another cool feature: is they give you these import, tuner style, headlights and tail lights all right? We are ready for the peel. I think so we got ta put some stickers on our body’s all dry, a little bit of touch up on that side, just spray. Another ball up in that wait till the very end when you’re all done cutting and trimming and making marks to peel that outer layer of plastic off that’s your protective layer. Look at that yellow baby money came really good, pumped about that cool. After this peel it’s sticker time and then we’re pretty close to done, i did order some black pinstriping so that i could do the door jamb seals window gaskets all that good stuff to give it contrast, make the body pop. So that might be something you want to look into. I will have the information on that in the next video okay. I hope you guys enjoyed this paint job on the super body for our low c 22 drag car. If you did and you haven’t subscribed, will you please subscribe? It means a lot and if you want to get all the good content, hit the notification bells and throw me a like.