Today, i am working on my losi tenacity, tt pro short course truck i’m going to be installing a couple upgrades that really are just going to make it a little bit more bashable. To be completely honest, the truck doesn’t need a whole lot right out of the box. It’S built super tough, which i’ll kind of go over. Some of the features and uh show a couple of the things that i kind of felt like were maybe some shortcomings. But overall i am super happy with this truck and uh see what we can come up with here, all right, so here’s, the truck and if you’re familiar with the 10 platform, you’ll see that this is based on that. A lot of stuff looks familiar, steering suspension. Very similar one of the things i really like that they did with this truck is that they put the aluminum threaded body shocks on here with aluminum caps, which is nice. They put the aluminum shock towers on it front and rear so that’s a nice little feature. Um biggest thing, i noticed that’s different from uh, like the troiley designs truck that i had is that they put this brace going across the top. I guess this is more of a a basher truck is how they market it, so they don’t want you to tackle your chassis but uh very, very similar um. I really love this platform it’s a great truck, and i mentioned something that i consider kind of a shortcoming of this thing and uh for most people.
I don’t know if i should say most, but for a lot of people. This really wouldn’t make a difference if you’ve never built a factory team kit or uh had a race. You know uh race, built vehicle. You may not even notice this, but one of the things i noticed right away is this. That is a lot of play in the steering one thing that’s kind of annoying about it is a lot of that play comes from the actual servo, so this servo – i have run this thing literally one battery pack through it, so maybe about 20 25 minutes of Run time and that servo already has tons of play in the uh output shaft so i’m going to be changing. That and uh also a thing that i don’t like is that none of the steering has ball bearings in it. It’S got bushings. So let me change that out too, because this drives me nuts. I don’t like that that shouldn’t be otherwise love. The truck um can’t, wait to start upgrading it see, uh see how it turns out all right. So here are the parts that are going on this truck now. What i did to find all of these was i looked at the scte 3.0 team kit manual to get all the part numbers, and i did compare all those part numbers before ordering them with the part numbers listed for the tenacity tt pro, and they were all Different doesn’t mean they’re different parts, necessarily um, like the bell cranks.
For example, i have a feeling these may be the same exact parts that are on the truck so worst case scenario is, i have an extra set um, but i just wanted to make sure i got ones that uh would fit the bearings that i bought, because I don’t know what size bushings are and i didn’t take the truck apart first, so i got those um. This is just a steering rack that has ball bearings in it. Um should help a lot right there. The bearings got the steering posts again, i’m, not sure how different these are. But i do know that this one will absolutely accept those bearings. I don’t know that the one that’s in the tenacity will so i bought it just in case um and then to get rid of that slop in the servo itself. I got a savbox 1258 tg, really really tough servo i’ve used them in four different vehicles. Haven’T broken one, yet it does drain a fair amount of power. So i got a glitch buster uh, so that if this thing drains too much power, you don’t uh temporarily lose connection to your receiver, because nobody wants that and then aluminum steering horn uh, because i do a fair amount of bashing actually more bashing than racing. I got a couple basher upgrades um. This is a mud guard set for the rear, so that’s going to protect the rear, axles and shock shafts from getting mud flung all over them.
I got the rear skid plate just to help protect the chassis a little bit, and then i got an rpm front bumper, and what i like about this bumper is that it eliminates this brace right here, because what this does is when you hit something hard. This transfers a lot of the force into your uh diff housing and it’s a lot of work to replace that diff housing. So we don’t want to break that. The rpm stuff is just made with a little bit more flexible plastic, so that absorbs it rather than transferring it to the chassis. So these are the things i’m about to install, and hopefully we end up with something better than this yeah can’t have that started off with taking the servo out super easy to get out on this thing you just take off the four mounting screws and, of course, The servo horn screw so that’s, just five screws get the servo out next i’m, taking off the steering top plate and the chassis brace, pretty easy, just two screws on the top for the top plate and then two screws on the bottom and that’s going to get Your steering posts off you do have to take off that chassis, brace just a couple screws right on the top holding that on unplug the motor get that stuff out of the way. So once you’ve got your top plate and your chassis brace out of the way you have access to all your steering parts, you can see those bushings right.
There are some of the ones that we’re going to replace and there’s just two bushings in each post. One on the top one on the bottom: you can just pop those right out and put the ball bearings in place of them. You can start putting everything back together. I do recommend using thread lock on the steering posts, because those are constantly moving. You don’t want the screws to start backing out and while it was apart, i threw that metal ball. Bearing steering rack on it that plastic, one with the bushings, can go straight into the garbage. Just get everything tied back up here. Steering upgrades are done, got a lot less play in the wheels this. I would consider normal so i’m. Real happy with that and uh. The new steering, servo, you can see is real fast still got to adjust the end points a little bit, but should be good to go so now i’m just going to do the battery upgrades and we will call it done all right. All done so. Uh pretty happy with the steering upgrade. I did end up having some extra parts that i could have reused. So if you want to do this stuff to your truck um, really all you need is the steering rack here’s, the low c part number that’s got the ball bearings in it and two sets of these bearings and you could just pull your belt cranks off and Your steering posts and reuse them with these bearings and study your bushings, and that would definitely tighten things up a little bit um.
I do recommend getting rid of the stock low c spectrum. Servo um i’m, going to take this one apart and try to figure out. Why it’s got so much play in there? I don’t know maybe there’s some bushings in here.