This kit has some tips and stuff to make it set lower, so we’re gon na look at doing some of that. Today, um he said to get these shocks. These are wpl. Shocks took forever had to get them from china, of course, and um modify him a little bit. Make him work so we’re gon na walk through that he also did kind of a body drop on it and i’m, not sure about that. Yet we’re gon na see what we get um. All his low riders are running his true scale, wheels and tire. I don’t know how these fit comparatively as far as height wise. These are those custom ones i found on ebay, um no link. I know i get asked a gazillion times. The guy said he was going to sell more and he hasn’t listed any so i’m not going to advertise for him, because i didn’t get any discount paid arm and a leg for these. So uh yeah don’t know how it’ll fit, but we do need to get this thing sitting a little lower. I accidentally discovered something here: um the way he body dropped his low rider, the he slid the rear above the rear mounts, and then he made a new mount to raise the front up so it set lower. I slid the rear above the mounts and the front still fits the factory, so we’ve dropped the back here a little bit the body. The bottom edge of the body is now parallel with the frame, but it does stick up in the front a little bit still so that might be an easy free upgrade for some of you guys out there.
If you don’t want to spend any money on this thing just to clarify about that, instead of the body setting on this edge here and just slid it underneath, i had to work the light controller around the interior piece but see it sticks up just a little Bit here with the body back here, it’s, even so that’s, one reason why i hate light kits. So now the body is attached to the chassis. I really don’t want to fool with all that right now, so i’ve got to remove the knock offs. I think i can do the front with the tires still on, but i got to take the rears off. The main issue in the rear is the tire is pretty much on the inner fender already. So i don’t know how much drop we’re gon na gain. We might get three millimeter, but it’s still worth a shot. Every little bit counts, but i’m gon na start up here up front. These shocks have some ridiculous eyelet on it that you do have to trim down so that’s going to be tedious up front. You have to do the top and the bottom in the rear you don’t have to. You, can just do the bottom. Only. It looks like i’m going to start up front because that’s going to be the most labor intensive, we are going to reuse. The stock springs like jeffries did and it’s easy enough to swap out their same diameter, Music, Music, all right guys, so the only thing that sands off easier than chineseium is these stanley pliers got a nice rounded edge on that now um.
Luckily, that stuff’s not very hard jeffrey, said to use a dremel and cut it off and toothpicks, and a bunch of convoluted mess and uh yeah, just put it on the bench grinder and it didn’t take very long at all did get a little hot, even fake Aluminum gets hot when you’re cutting it. The dog got tired. Well, we’ve got quite a bit of drop out of this, but but i’m looking underneath and we still have a quarter inch between the cross member and the ground and we have almost the same amount between the top of the tire and the inner fender. And the only thing i see that’s, limiting, that is the inside of the inner fender. The control arm is resting on that so i’m, going to trim that out a little bit and another mod that he recommended if you’re using stock shocks. But i think if we clear this, we can use that as well, where these arms are linked down below you cut out part of the k member. Basically, so the ball end on this candy lever arm can go all the way to the ground and i think that’ll get us where we need to go so i’m, going to start first i’m going to take about a quarter inch out of the inside of here. Let the control arms come up further we’ll see where that gets us. The shocks and springs are super stiff. Those springs are weights way too stiff we’ll have to see how it bounces it might be good.
It might be way way too stiff. So i’m gon na have to unplug the light kit and take the chassis in there to the dremel, because i do need a dremel for that and we’re gon na grind some of that out. Music, all right guys so that worked um, i don’t know we’re, really not sticking through the bottom of the crossmember, but we did it whatever. The main difference was clearancing the inner fenders. So i got a little rough plastic on there. I need to file off. We got some negative camber going on up front k. Member is on the ground awesome so time to move to the rear, so jeffrey’s video he put these shocks on and he also made a longer servo horn. I don’t really want to deal with the servo horn. I think my tires and wheelers are taller than his, so we may end up having to cut the fenders i’m in the mood to cut tonight. Obviously, we’ve packed this thing up after i swear i wouldn’t so i’m gon na go ahead and swap out the shocks. I’M gon na swap the springs over to the new shocks, put those on and see what that gets us all right. So big problem, we’re hitting the exhaust with our control, arms, our upper control, arms or four link. So easiest solution i see is to move those to the inside of the mount problem is that’s going to screw our pinion angle up even worse, because this is bad as it sits low and as it raises up it stays pretty good, well stays.
Okay, so i got to pull these back tires off. Like i said earlier, i got to get the there. It is little bitty allen, wrench, take these knockoffs off these custom wheels gon na go ahead and swap the shocks and then we’ll, readdress Music. All right guys made some good progress. I got the rear shocks on and it does not set that low, mainly on this side, because the upper control arm is hitting a piece of or molding shape for the differential. You can see here the drive shaft’s, hitting it a little bit and this side only is hitting it’s offset just a hair, so we’re getting a little bit more compression out of one side than the other, but it’s pretty much sitting on the frame rail. On this side and the tire still spins, so unless we’re gon na do a big c notch, there’s not much more room to go so i’m gon na hit this with a dremel see if we can knock a few millimeters off of that, get it to set Level, Music, all right guys got that clearanced. Um really probably should take a little more off but it’s setting pretty level we’re gon na see what we got. We may have to come back and do the servo horns: um yeah bluetooth exhaust. Instead of trying to find links that fit and taking the whole rear suspension apart, i just clipped the tailpipes out you’re, not going to see it in there anyway.
You really don’t see the tailpipes as it is, and the tips don’t look very realistic anyway. So not really worried about that. Um got the space i needed out of it. So put this thing back together and see if it says low enough all right guys so that’s what we’ve got it’s, not enough um the rear. I don’t think it’s going out all the way because the interior piece so i’m gon na pull that out here in a second and try that the front is setting on the crossmember on the ground. The tires are hitting the inner fender, so we’re gon na have to do the body drop thing um the rear. I have underneath the body mount not on top of it like it’s supposed to be so. The rear is kind of already body dropped, i’m. Going to remove the interior we’ll see if that makes it a little bit more. I guess my antennas up – yeah, oh it’s, just the back is still setting high and i think it’s the wheel and tire combo there’s, not much else. We can do sort of grinding into the chassis, so Music, so Music, all right guys that escalated quickly, a couple hours later, a lot of plastic shavings everywhere. So i had to notch the frame rail which i need to clean up a little bit more and i had to cut a hole in between the rear servos to clear the axle housing to come up higher.
So we are pretty much bottomed out, there’s, not much more. We can get um the lower four link. Arms were hitting the chassis, so i had to space those out put on some angled rc4 drive. Rod ends so let’s flip it over and see. If we actually got anything out of all right guys got everything buttoned back up, put all the wire management back on the brace over here um. I had to do a lot of hacking that’s as low as we’re going to get it without going even further and i’ve been working on this for a while, so we’re going to wrap it up here, see we’ve got tire sitting on inner fenders. Just about all the way around um still not gon na lay body just because the tires and wheels are taller, so i have to brainstorm what’s next hindsight i feel kind of bad hacking. This thing all up, but i mean this is the toy um. I wasn’t able to reinstall one of the wire clamps here because we cut that section out for the rear differential. Stick fan, see that there it’s not the cleanest cut, and i did kind of cut the plastic of this servo over here a little bit. But it’s still fine um. I really need to strip it all apart and clean it all up, maybe clearance a little bit more, but not in the mood to unwire. The whole thing now so front i’m, happy with front, is laying excellent, like i said that cross number is right on the ground.
The tires are right in the fenders, so the only thing left to do is to see if this still hops one adverse effect here with these shocks and lowering everything the interior has those two humps in the rear, deck lid or the rear window shelf, and those Are sticking up higher than that now so there’s not really a way around that unless we change the angle of the arms, maybe but there’s not enough room in that interior. So now you can see the shocks in the back window. It is what it is like. I said i’ve i’ve never been a huge fan of lexan. That body is pretty nice but uh. I don’t know. I think this chassis and this setup is destined for greater things down the road as we experiment and destroy it further we’ll find out where that is so i’m going to do a quick test, get the body back on and we’ll see how it hops. Now, with these new shots, all right, so i didn’t make one more change. Um with it powered on the servos do stand up a little bit higher and we’re back at a gap here in the rear, so um needed to adjust the servo horns and instead of ripping all this out, i went ahead and just opened up this hole in Here the shock was hitting it a little bit the edge of it. It was only open here on the front for the shock to come through so we’ve clearanced it back.
I can actually get a tool in there and remove the servo horn we’re going to clock. Those up just a little bit more and that should give us our extra drop to see when it’s powered off and go down a lot further, so i’m going to clock those real, quick turn it back on and uh so made a little bit of progress. A lot of cutting, i got a mess, there’s black plastic everywhere in the shop, but i’ve got the rear to stay down. The servo arms are in the rear window slams to the ground, now not quite as much lift, but i think it’s a little bit more realistic. I guess the battery i’ve been running in there was low because i forgot how well this hopped. Now we got that steering issue fixed too. I did a couple videos ago, still heavy in the back, so it doesn’t want to turn on these hard surfaces, but it’s a lot better than it was. Oh, we see the coke machine, well guys. I’M gon na wrap. This video up spent all night out here last night, having a good time with this and getting back into the groove hacking stuff and all that um. I don’t think i took a good before picture so y’all be the judge. We made a little bit of progress. I think that we really need to do something different with the rear frame, um it’s kind of maxed out with what it is.
So i think there’s going to be a whole re engineer involved. We need different rails, we need servo locations changed. What do we really want to do with this thing? I mean it’s still fun to come out here and hop it. So i don’t know if i’m ready to completely throw the chassis in the parks bin and build something new with it, but it’s coming we’ll get there eventually but appreciate you guys watching um like subscribe and share. If you like, the content um. If you want to support the channel, we’ve got some merchandise available below and follow along on instagram and stuff for sneak peeks of videos to come, but keep your scale i’ll see.