We have a mclan 13.5 v3 motor san juan airtronix rx41, that i’m gon na run on the new m17, some clan pico 100 amp, the older 100 amp speedo. They have their newer one out, but this is what i have right now: a sanwa pgs lh, shorty servo, and then i also have for battery wise i’m running a maclan macklin, 6100 shorty, so uh first thing i did uh different from the kit is shock oil. The kit recommends 500 cst. I went to a 350. just the 500 is super thick um that just i think, is just too much. It was very. I did fill the shocks up with 500. I ran it up and down the street. You know checked them. It was just too stiff, didn’t, wasn’t, very responsive. The next deviation from the kit setup is on all the pills i have him 0.5 down so it’s or 0.5 upside down. So everything is on the blocks a little bit lower, which will give you a little bit more ride height the shock positions are all the same. I have done this where i get a about, i think it’s, an 18 or 20 mil grub screw. I run that into the arm and the position, and then i use a lock nut to hold it on the screws it comes with these larger head captured screws, but those i find they strip out when you’re, using a two and a half or two mil on Them they just strip out, so i like running running these, i run them on every position that i can so on the two wheel.
I run them in the rear you can see. I have them on the rear. Just i think, makes everything simpler and more more reliable. You don’t have to worry about the screw backing out. You have a larger nut so that you can get a five and a half on there. So, on the back just wing buttons, i like the wing buttons over the plaques plastic ones, hubs stock positions. I did raise these up to the one mil position so essentially take the kit ones and you flip them upside down, and then you get the little higher ride, height, transmission or sorry differential inserts. I have them um, it is the one on the bottom three on the top front and rear that’s, going to lower the the differential in the chassis and give you a straight driveline axle when you’re at higher ride heights. So i need to get at the the low shock tower just to get the ride: height i’m, trying to run 20 mil, and i can barely get to 20 mil i’m about 19 19 and a half in the rear. And then i can get to 20 in the front, but again you see you, can you run out of uh shot collar on the stock blue springs? I do have more springs, but i i think the balance is fine with the with the blue and the green, but i don’t have the right height that i would like so um chances are i’ll, get the low rise shock tower, which um has the upper positions? A little bit lower, which gives you more droop and more, will give you more ride height for the same spring, inside nothing special stock oils for the kit, the i’m running 24.
76. I believe it comes with an 80 or an 86, but i had 78 spur 24 i’m gon na be running it on clay this weekend. So i wanted to have something more agreeable. If you saw my previous video, i did cover some camber links information. These were all pretty tight, but i think these are so much better than the older ball cups and ball studs. That serpent was using on the 10th scale. These are super awesome i like them, they do need to wear in, but they are. I think they are an improvement, otherwise it’s. For the most part, everything is stock, as it comes out of the kit stock wing hexes. Everything else is stock. Camber links, camber link length, the positions for the acumen arms, all that so that’s my build. I my impressions of the build, just like all the other kits, i think the gen 3, the two wheel – and this are an improvement on the overall quality of the parts in the kit. They are very tight. Everything fits well, i didn’t have any issues with the assembly there were you know all the screws were in the right bags, all the parts in the right bags. Everything mounted the same sway bars. Everything where it was was exactly as it was on the gen 3 buggy everything fits. So i really like the kit. Build was real easy. Only spare parts i got were for the steering rack and then i believe i got c hubs and uh spindles.
I guess whatever whatever whatever they are. Everything else is pretty simple: if you have the rear, diff stuff, you’re good to go because it’s the same rear gear box as the gen three two wheel drive, if you want, you can run the narrower idler um top shaft. I don’t think you can run the same top shaft, but you can run the the lower one because the top shaft is different. It accommodates the um, the pressure or the uh. I guess your front rear bias. Your it’s, not it doesn’t, come with a lockout, comes with a thrust bearing style, um kind of like a slipper style to transfer the power from the rear to the front. I do like this setup better, where your motor pinion turns the spur gear which is connected straight to your gearbox on the previous one, your pinion turn the spur the spur uh turned the belt, and that belt was connected to the rear transmission, where on here, it’s Connected straight into the gearbox, so now you’re using a belt to transfer the power forward on the gen first srx4 you’re, using a belt to transfer power to the rear and to the front. So in this buggy i think it’s a much better design. You get a lot more room because you don’t have the larger, i guess center shaft or center tower structure that you have running through the middle. So overall, i think this is a better better build on.
One thing is the i: i cannot get the plastic lower shot caps to not leak. I’Ve tried everything green, you know, shock lube o ring grease all kind of stuff. I think these are the best right here. The aluminum shock caps, the lower shock caps. So i only have two sets one set on the jet on my two wheel and a set on this and to leak these leak, the least so that’s. Why i run these? All i do is when i build a set of shocks, is i’ll, get the delrin insert a new one for a new shock, so all i do is swap them the. Whenever i go back to another kit like on here plastics, if if another kit was gon na come out, i would just take the caps off put the new delrin inserts and move them to the new kit. So, overall, i think the the gen 3 srx4 is a much better car. Everything looks a lot more robust feels better feels just as stiff. I think this top this top deck is is a lot better than the fully enclosed belt makes changing your front differential. A lot easier, the rear gear box is just like the gen 3, so it’s real easy. So overall, i think this is an improvement. If you’re running the sdx4, evo or even the azter x4, i recommend getting a hold of one of these trying it. It is smoother this tighter all the parts fit really well good parts interchangeability now, with the two wheel drive now that the rear end is almost exactly the same.
So those are my thoughts if you have any questions, leave them down below and i will give get to them when able.