RC ADVENTURES – PROJECT: BUMBLEBEE-ST PT 2: Suspension & Frustration – Classic RC Build Moments
Past tight new builds are usually really good at staying together as long as it's, not aluminum, on aluminum and you're, not using lock tight. That can actually be very problematic. It will move these out of the way time to get into some of the shocks because I'm going to attach the rear suspension to the well here's. The leaf springs right here: I'm. Just screwing, some of the rod ends on the end of the dampeners. They basically came preassembled. All I did was add a little bit of oil to them made sure there wasn't any air in there and they are spring loaded. So pretty nice I'm, just gon na pop the eyelets in the rod, ends here this. Actually, these little eyelets help the articulation and when the shock is moving, it allows the screw to move so that this shock dampener isn't rigid as the axle moves around all right off camera. I just installed two link: hangers I've only put in the bottom screws. So far, just around the front you can see they're cinched in on either side. Then what I'm gon na do is I've proceeded these lock washers up top lock nuts, I should say and I'm just gon na slide this top suspension hanger there. I guess I should have waited there's there, some advice right there, don't put the washers or lock nuts in place. First, I suppose there we are that's in the way it should be gon na slide these longer screws through to the back cinch them into place.
You'Re. Just getting this other side, all locked up, very nice, not too tight, no one know I'm, not over tightening it. That looks really really good. I'M. Actually, really surprised that looks fantastic, okay, so off camera I've been working, just kind of figuring, some things out and I figured I'd stop and give you an update right away. So here are the leaf springs that I have for the back. I already went ahead and installed one side of the leaf springs. Now you might be wondering why the heck does this have such a long axle on it, but remember this truck is actually a dually, so it's gon na have dual tires in the back on either side. Now the inside dampener has been attached already. I want to make sure that directionally I was following the the book. Did I get this right? I believe I did excellent moving past this I'm actually going to install one here in just a moment to show you so it's, actually quite simple, the dampener itself, you'll notice is actually on the inside of the axle pointing up towards the middle. This is how it's going to be installed when we're finished. I believe, as long as I did that right over here, I actually decided to go with aluminum shocks that I already had. Yes, these are axial shocks, but I actually like the aluminum reservoir more than the plastic, one that comes with it. Also, I am using the blue springs that came with it, but I'm actually going to use.
Axial Springs that are a little bit softer the Mike Ross. Rc came with nice, soft red springs and I could do red and blue, which I think would look really cool, but for just right now and how cold it is outside. I really like the response rate of the gray spring it's a little bit softer this one's. More of a medium spring – and these blue ones are actually quite firm, so I'm not going to use these because the truck overall will not be that heavy. So here is the front axle that's, where those are gon na go, but first I'm going to I'm. Definitely gon na have to make suspension links, but I want to install these leaf springs. My kit is actually missing two little spacers and I have no idea where the heck they are. I may have dropped them somewhere, I'm sure that's what it is, but I just can't seem to find my but that's. Okay, I don't mind I'll, just cinch it up a little bit tighter, making sure again that I directionally have this proper using a very long screw for the top, and you know what the cross wrench yeah that looks about right. Hopefully, okay, so suspension links need rod, ends, I've already used a drill and pre drilled. The screws into the rod ends I'm, just popping the eyelets out right now and while keeping everything fairly attached, just popping the eyelets into place that way by keeping everything attached.
I actually know where they all where they all are, which is nice for me, when I'm building, I don't have to scramble everywhere all over the desk, just kind of take these and figure out, which ones are the same size. Remember when you're looking in your book, it'll normally tell you the size of the rods that you're looking at that way. You don't go ahead and build the wrong links and then figure out later and then you have to go in backtrack a bit so it's wanting us to use the hooked ones on the end with a spacer. So on goes the spacer and then making sure I have the right rod and just kind of threading that in notice, if you're a first time builder, that I actually use these screws and I threaded them into the rod and not actually into the rod. Because if you do that, this kind of just has unlimited, you can go ahead and screw that thread right in and you'll actually lose the screw. And even if you didn't – and you stopped in time when you go to turn the rod in onto it, it'll just kind of spin so put the screw into the rod in first and then you're pretty much in good shape. Just setting up the three link already pre threaded, this plastic, put that into where it's roughly supposed to go. I can always change the end of the angle of the rod and later now, I'll take that front axle here, line it up its making sure the steering is in front then with the longer.
Let me see here the top one here. This is going to be the center and then these will go on the side like that. Then, of course, these ones are going to go on the outside. If I'm correct I'm gon na have to figure that out yeah on the outside okay, so then I'm gon na need some longer screws. Okay, so I'm, going to turn this around. So the way it's seated against that axle housing is nice and flat thread it through get this rod into place first. Well, that is a snug fit for sure, come on, get it in there. Oh, I had it in and then it slipped out Sammy. You know I'm gon na throw in a one that's what she said there. We are Music, it's slid in so easy now, okay, this on the inside the bottom Lincoln seat. The shock properly here is the servo plate: okay, I'm. Just using a couple of em threes. Eight mils, just kind of cinching up the servo mount itself on the tray and what I'm gon na do is turn this around first time I'm doing this guys so you're, seeing it as well one two three no I'm wrong. This top one here is for the three link mount for my suspension. Now find the right screw there it's number one one, two one one: an 18 mil patience is a virtue, while you're working on your hobby guys remember you're doing it for fun.
So many of us forget, including me when we're working on it. Sometimes you know just to take a break if you're feeling frustrated and walk away. You can see that I'm having a great time with this, come on get out of the way hitting the camera at the tools yeah it's in one of those spots, okay. Well, what if I approached it differently and flipped it up that way? I just have to move it around until it finally does fall into that more than a hole. The reality of the hobby is that I don't have enough film space and YouTube. Doesn'T have enough hard drive space for the amount of time. Some of this stuff takes come on. What took the longest part. Oh just putting in a small, lock nut, took me about four hours only two seconds on camera, though holy Sh come on dude there. Thank you, man, that was painful. Music, do not push it out with the screw, reinforcing it first ooh pretty the drive shafts. Oh, these driveshafts seem alright fairly solid they've, been priests front and back driveshaft you'll notice. The drive shafts are actually two different sizes. If you're building a truck make sure that you're building the right size of driveshaft, if they don't come, pre done for you or else that will end up biting you in the back end real quick. One thing I will mention just because you guys have seen me using red loctite is: I will never use red loctite on a driveshaft, because if you actually end up having a grub screw, get stripped out on you, it can be so hard to get these grub Screws out without having to drill them again, let alone using kind of red loctite blue only on these, or none at all.
Okay. I'M gon na repurpose, one of my older salve ox SW 1210. But is it going to fit interesting? Yes, I think it will fit, but it's that three link in the back right here I kind of figured that was gon na cause me a little bit of an issue plus. I don't have a lot of clearance here for my servo wire mm, hmm and that all cinched up, okay, so now the whole steering on the front needs to be completed and basically it's just a matter of installing the links that were already made. Well, that I've already made so two of these one on top of each other sure, right into the threaded steering horn. Now I always use an aluminum steering horn I've used plastic ones out on the trail before, and I got ta tell you they fail me more often than not, and with a good, strong servo like this Salix I have. I will turn the speed down. So it looks more scale, but it's got a lot of torque, so the plastic splines on the steering spline gear itself can get stripped out on a horn, especially when you're out on the trail, especially if you got lots of really grabby tires and if you have Those grabby tires, of course you don't, want to be trying to replace your servo horn on the trail because it sucks to be quite straightforward. Well, there you are that's, where I'm going to end it today, I've been at it long enough that it's dark outside now, but at least you get a good look at the cross, RCP g4l axles and how I've set up the steering and the suspension.
I have the front steering servo in, I have the drive shafts in everything on the front is functioning and I am able to turn everything without feeling any kind of binding. So that's fantastic same with the back end. Here we've got the axles together the extended axles out the side. This whole suspension setup is ready to be installed as well, but I've got a little bit of work. I still have to make the throw arm for the transmission for this servo, but with the two servos installed already that's fantastic I'm glad. Next, really, I want to see them installed on the truck, and then I really like to look at either putting the tires on, which is like a must – and I think doing this whole body and assembling the light kit and everything it's gon na have to be A video on its own, I don't, even know if you guys want to see a boring video about a light kit being installed, but it's completely up to you guys. Please leave me a little bit of feedback in the the video comment section down below. Like comment. Subscribe, you guys know the deal. Let me know, did you even get this far in the video or did you have to skip ahead? Cuz? You were bored eh. I got a no because for me it's the only way I can make videos that you guys want to see and, of course, I'm inspired by the amount of comments and things and like clicks and feedback.
I get it kind of pushes me forward to do these. Creative builds for you, I can't just throw together any bills. I have to be inspired, you know like and that's exactly it like. This bumble. Beast truck inspires me and – and I know some of you guys are like oh it's. A truck bumble bee should never be a truck, but guys this is what RC is about. Making the dreams you've always had come to reality. It might not be in full size, but it can be in you know, like 110 scale or whatever size you want to build it in a project. Is a project is a project guys. Thank you for tuning in. I hope, you're entertained. We'Ll see you next time.