“PROJECT: JOHNSON” aka “THE BiG ONE” – LESU CAT 374FL EXCAVATOR KiT BUILD PART 2 | RC ADVENTURES
However, this is not the norm and there is no standard requiring this to be the case. Aha, so it has been raining all week and our YouTube goldmine site is flooded right out. We have to bring the waters back, so we can even maneuver the equipment around there. So what I did was I broke out project Johnson mile s, ooh big, huge excavator and all week I have been painting pieces for it. It almost looks like I have an excavator and I butchered out all processed here, look at this, their largest excavator. They offer. I have been painting it all week. I brought in special automotive paint. Everything is looking fantastic look at this, so I decided to go with a red black brass and and chrome. Look. Look at this. Like a stainless steel. Everything has been painted. The details still need to be done. This is just preliminary work, but look at this on all of my parts. I always make sure to do front and back the reason. Why is because you never know when you're gon na open up a door and show the inside, so I always make sure to do all sides of every piece that way when you have a good look. Everything looks like it is straight from the manufacturer. Now I have built a less ooh excavator before, but this is their most giant model to date, so as a helpful tip er trick for anybody that is going to tackle a build like this or any RC build.
What I do is, I always take the hardware and I always lay it out in sequential order according to size like all of these are mice you'll see the one point whatever is on top, then the two point whatever is on the bottom and then three, the Sizes go up in sequential order, then I start laying out all the Associated nuts and bearings that I'm going to need all the way down into the pins and whatever I have left Springs and or whatever. You can always find it and it's quick and easy to get to now. If you're new to my builds are just tuning in, I always suggest using like a gatorade lid or a bottle like that. Just so you can get some blue loctite or thread lock, and the bonus of these kits from les yeux is that you do get your own tools. These are actually fairly decent. Hex drivers right here plus you've, got some nut drivers. An extra 1.5 mil a piece that you can put into your driver handle and then the tiniest little screw driver available. I would say that you would also need a 4.0 nut driver. You want to get yourself some needlenose pliers. You may need a small hammer and a razor blade. Let'S get started so idler wheel, the holder and the tensioner. So this is actually going to be a track tensioning wheel and what we need to do is identify the brass piece, identify the bearings get the spring: the pin the drive, pin and the the actual wheel itself now for viewers that are new to the show.
When I'm doing a complicated build, I like to lay the parts out everything in a row, so you can see how it goes together very easily, so here's the rod. This is actually going to hold the spring, which is going to go through the you bracket. The you brackets gon na have a bushing on either side. This idler wheel is gon na have a bearing on either side that idler wheel will slide into the hanger right here. We'Re also gon na have a pin that goes straight through on either side and it has a set screw on on both sides that are gon na hold it into place. Okay, so first things first, the very first start: I'm gon na take this threaded rod right here that has a flat spot, as you can see, and I'm actually gon na start twisting it into the hanger, and I want to make sure that when ice stop twisting The flat spot is on top and on the bottom. Why? Because I'm gon na run one of these set screws in here and yes, I am running a little bit of Loctite on there. A little thread lock not too much wipe off the excess and I'm. Also gon na put one on the back. A new hobby enthusiast don't know that if you take a small amount of grease, stick it on the inside of one of those Collard bushings. You can slide that into its area and it will stay.
It won't slide out so that's very helpful if you're working on any of those callers, they also have holes in the callers that have to line up with the outside hanger holes. Right here that so a whole set screw can go in once that's completed I'm. Just going to go ahead and slide now, the tolerances are like, within a micro millimeter, look at that slides right into place, and I want to make sure to line the holes up all the way through. So I can stick that pin right where it's supposed to go here's where I'm using a longer grub screw, but I try to use as little thread lock as possible. So here is the spring that goes over the outside. I don't really need that yet, but I'm gon na leave this just as is let's switch over to the carrier. Ah, just look at that beautiful paint I've been letting it cure for days. I know a lot of people are upset with me right now. They wanted me to do the typical cat, yellow and black, but I am anything but typical. I love entertaining people with all different types of radio control, hobby equipment and if I can make something, look extra cool with a serious paint job, especially with heavy duty equipment. I'M gon na do that over here I will need some track carriers. I also need the track. Rollers, which means I'm also gon na need an m3 eight, but a counter sunk screw so I'll need those yeah.
I don't need some of these bearings and some of these bearings notice that what I'm gon na do here is put in some waterproof grease. Why am i doing that? It'S not required it doesn't say to do that in the in the actual manual. But, like I said you never know what kind of weather your excavator is gon na, be in so I'd rather have those bearings protected ten by six by three and then this one slides in the same way. But it goes in too easy. You almost think it's the wrong one, but all you need to do is just kind of countersink it in there and then, of course, what I'll do is I'll put some grease on the outside of these bearings as well, just to make sure that they're always maintained And lubricated well, a lot of people may say: hey you're gon na get grit on the inside of that, bearing you know, it's gon na wear it away but I'd rather have that chance than to have one kind of just rust up on me and seize, and Then one two three, these pieces are going to go in where it is countersunk on one side, so pretty straightforward, just push it through you'll see that it's a beautiful flush fit right there and any kind of grease poking out the other side. I just kind of wipe it off then I'm, going to be using the m3 number, eight countersunk screw and I'm gon na just start introducing it to this roller and the reason.
Why is because it becomes quite a challenge, especially with everything is slippery and there's a bearing in there that it starts to spin. So I found it was best to use a cloth on one side to hold it nice and tight. That way, you could snug up that roller and then ensure that it rolls freely. I want to know right now. I know the beginnings of builds are boring for the people that are watching right now. Please make an effort to make a comment down below. Let me know if you're watching at this point in the video, because youtube tells us that people now these build videos after two minutes and then nobody ever actually comments on anything. So if you could do that, for me, that would be awesome enter the bottom rollers beautiful, okay, proper grease on that on either side. All right before any rollers are gon na be installed. I have to put the idler wheel and tensioner in place, so this is going through here through here and then there's a hole in this final one I'm just going to adjust it. So we can get it in place perfect. Then I can put a nut on the end of here and that's actually going to adjust the tension on the track right like if I get a rock or something go inside the track. It'S going to be able to move this idler wheel, so it doesn't break the the actual track itself.
Okay, with all of those ready to go and the track tensioner in place I'm just going to seat all of these, even though they don't sit perfectly flush with the pin. But this kind of gives you an idea of what's going on. These are going to be the bottom guide rollers for the track, I'll open up all these pins. Now every Hobby builder is different and, although I don't suggest using a hammer in the Hobby that often these pins that come are the tolerance is so small that they actually have a very slight problem. I'Ve noticed fitting through the bearing and or not even just the bearing just the outer the carrier right here. So what I'm gon na do is put that roller in there we're gon na use that small ball peen hammer. I have and then get that into place. Problem solve look alike. Look at that, then, on the other side, you can wipe off all the grease that may have come out and attach these all with the Eclipse that were provided all right. So once those Eclipse are in place for the roller make sure that you can actually roll each roller freely and it's time to install the sprocket on the end, this piece is just so beautiful and it's weighted so nicely. You don't have to put together the gears that come inside this actually comes as one unit. It is a brushless motor. As you can see, there are three pins on the end and we're going to be running those wires a little later on.
But as you can see, we are ready to mount this up, so it will be going straight through like that, okay, so m to number eight and they are going to be these silver little fellas 14 holes for the sprocket, so 14 screws that need thread lock. That was easy and to finish off the rollers we're gon na have the top piece like that with four little screws. Now I know you guys came here for YouTube gold today, so I better make this extra special. No one asks for a twelve minute video. You all came here for a longer video than that and I'll tell you what I built the other one off camera let's move on to the main part. Quick little shuffling around here turn these around. So now you can see the sprockets are towards me: beveled motor on the inside on either side making sure that they are both the right direction up. I can go ahead and take this top mount. If you guys remember the unboxing, it's quite heavy, and I can simply attach these down – they've got four screws on either side on each leg and then I can take the swing bearing and the slew ring and attach it up on top so 32 little bolts later. The top part is now attached. I like how they're bolts and they're not actually screws. It just makes the authenticity a little bit more. You know easier to believe.
Okay, so off camera. I did add some oil all the way around the swing bearing and I'm just making sure it can turn this way. You can have a 360 degree rotation on that turret and you never have to worry about losing signal because of how the electronics are set up. Is a ring that makes a connection all the way around now have a good look, there's, four five holes on one side: five holes on the other side. You can see here in the middle of the ring same thing, so you want to line up all these holes with either side, and then you can drop the screws in beautiful, lined it all up on the outside m3 12. You know as I'm tightening these screws. It often occurs to me that there are many people out there. That said, you know they would never even attempt a build like this, and I want you to know it is not as intimidating as you may think. As long as you lay it out, and you can identify your pieces as I've kind of shown as we go along here – have confidence in yourself it's just a step by step process. It truly is okay and, as a side note, I did add some grease to the inside of the teeth of the gear ring there. As you can see, this is just to kind of help. Aid in better smooth operation, maybe deaden the sound of the turret moving left and right.
I know I don't want to add too much because it'll attract a dirt and grime and small rocks over time. I don't want that to chew out the teeth, but for smooth operation I think it's worth it okay now. This is a little bit weird for me because I have wires sticking through for the motors for the actual sprockets on either side, but this doesn't show the wires going anywhere. It just shows them being cut off now in the smaller version. They actually have the wires routed through this plate that go into the track and you don't see any wires at all. But when you come over here and have a look at it, this is very different. It'S, almost like they expected this notch right here. What like hold that in like that, but then it kind of kinks the wire a little bit and then I'm gon na have wire exposed on the outside. I wish they would have run it through. I don't see any way to do that: there's, no holes! All the way around so that's, basically what I'm left to do, hopefully that doesn't damage any of the wire, so I'll have to be very careful if you're building along with me, also be careful okay, something is not making sense about this setup to me because once I was finished this I'm like okay. Well, what about these extra long cables like? Were these supposed to go? Normally, these would have been running in the track.
I don't want them anywhere to be around the rollers, and the only thing I can see here is you know like this small opening, which is not big enough to get. You know two of these through, let alone three and I thought well. Maybe the ends were put on before you know like. Maybe I should I I didn't put these on. These came from the factory, but maybe these should be redone and I wire these straight through and then I looked at this one over here and this one's got a hole behind the track. You can't see it. It is right back there, but it is also too small for the ends to be put on and I'm thinking, ah dang. So what I'm gon na do is because this one is set up differently and I can't actually drill a hole straight through here. Because of this, the the the bearing in there, what I'm gon na do is actually make this hole a little bit hello. What is this hole? Uh huh. Let me see okay I'm taking off the bottom plate as an experiment, because at no point in the instruction book does it show you how to route any of the wires so far but I'm wondering look at that. There is a hole right there, but I don't think it's gon na be definitely not big enough to slide this through I'm gon na have to remove that whole piece now, just to see how it can fit in there or if it can ok.
Now this makes way more sense. Hopefully, if you're going to be buying one of these units you'll end up watching this video first and you'll, see that in here, there's, actually two slots there's a slot on the inside right there and on the other side that's, where you're supposed to route your wires And they actually come out through these holes on either side. These are for your track motors right here. Okay, my table is littered with screws that had to be undone but that's no big deal to get to the right job, it's worth and doing properly, that small area you. If you try really hard, you can get all three of those male connectors through there and what they're supposed to do is come up through here. So you'll see that I've done that now it's behind the wire and it comes up through here which will now be able to connect to the wires over there on the plate and once everything is cinched down, that makes way more sense. I'M glad I stopped and used my brain because I'm like. Why would I have to drill holes that's, never an option well for those that are building along with me. I'M. Sorry, if I led you astray, but this would be a super important part of the instruction book to include that this video will include that the book at the current time does not so here's how that wire will come up through it connects.
It runs underneath and same with the other side. Don'T worry about connecting the wires up in any specific order, as this is a sensorless brushless setup, and you can fix that when you install the original ESC, you don't have to worry about any of the wires. Okay. Now let's push all this back into where it needs to go and reinstall the top plate, and here it is quite a heavy piece all the way around no wires exposed. The bottom plate is now on proper time to get out the tracks and roll them on now. The bonus is, is that, unlike some other kits, these actually come pre done for you, so you don't have to build all the links now. I'Ve decided not to paint these link's, because I actually like the look of the bare metal on them. I did paint my other tracks on the cobble co or Cavell Co or whatever you want to call it, and you know as soon as you start going to across the ground or pavement or you turn sideways. It grinds all the paint off of this anyway. So I think, keeping with the brass and chrome and black and red. I think this goes along perfect, so total track length when all laid out 35 inches all right. So I spun this around, so you guys could see it a little clearly. I did it on the other side and I'm just gon na take this track like I did already take it all the way down.
Remember when we put that track tensioner in here and I'm able to move this idler wheel back and forth well, what we need to do is to take these pieces of track and then compress that idler wheel and then pop a pin in place. At the same time now I wish I'm always transparent with you. This takes a little bit of conviction, make sure that you've got some patience and you can handle your fingers getting pinched if, if that's the case just try to line it up there here's the conviction part, because there I failed fail. There'S, like literally nothing to hold on to, and your timing just has to be just right like that, so wheat, so now that it's in what I got to do is take I'll, lay it on its side. So I got to put the e clip on still like that, and you guys aren't going to be able to see it, but it's gon na go right there back over to the parts area where I could grab the steps. Each one painted black are ready to rock and roll there's four in total. So now, with the beautiful undercarriage, complete that's got quite a heft to it. We can move on to done tada. Why didn't you paint the hydraulic tank. I don't know I kind of like the raw look of it. Look at this tiny little hole on top right. There I'm gon na slide this magnet into place like that, and then I take the very small I can't even keep it in focus it's that that tiny, oh man, I need two hands for this.
No, I don't I'm, a professional I've been doing this for at least three weeks. Now there we are that magnet is now secured in place. What is it for here is the smallest little cap for the tank, which can go on top threads right in now. This entire tank is actually going to get covered by an outer shroud that's. Why I'm not too worried about having this painted or getting hydraulic fluid mixed in with the paint or whatever I'm, just keeping an extra clean tank? I keep getting to go back here. One of these I get to have the door and what other piece this piece right here. This is the tank shroud. Okay, then I need the tiny little hinges and presto change o a few small screws. A few small hinges and you now have yourself a case for the hydraulic tank, but are we done there? Oh no. There are accessories to go on the tank itself and it includes already self chromed ladders and protective rails and look at the assortment all the way across the table. Everything is prepackaged ready to be assembled here's, a really good look at one of the ladder assemblies through that all metal ready to be installed and here's the corner piece on the side. Same thing: all metal ready to be installed. This shroud there's two holes here and two holes here so front and back this shroud will go over the tank like so, and then the door will open to reveal the magnet there's another magnet on top here and then the fill point or overflow point not sure Which one that is yet no! I was supposed to find the hanger for the mirror that looks like it and then the mirror itself right there and then I need a couple of brackets.
It shows right there brackets that's what those two or four and that's. Why there's those four holes in the side of the tank? I was wondering about that. Look at that the screws are actually right in the back of the mirror. How handy is that those two screws are actually going to get threaded into that area and they don't have any any washers, because they screw right into the back of the mirror right on. Ah, no upon closer inspection, they want you to change those out for the little em two by threes, so change the ones that come out toss them. I guess and change them to the smaller version. Just like that, and then these tiny little brackets and it kind of tightens on either side just Bend those two little brackets around and there it is the mirror, is installed now, underneath there are two holes. This is where we're going to introduce our first hydraulic fittings. So here they are, these are M five. Six by fours two of these on the bottom I'm, also going to use some Loctite, the five four five thread sealant for hydraulic fittings. Now a thread lock, remember a dab will do you. It goes a long way and just line it up flat, head screwdriver well with those two installed that completes the hydraulic tank assembly. Look at this a hatch, a proper ladder, that's attached the mirror, that's adjustable the outside guard rails, the hydraulic tank cap.
All of that now complete here is another part of the top that we're gon na have to install a door on, but first it needs its magnets. Now, keep in mind if you are building along. There is two bags of magnets for a reason. There are opposite polarities, so when you screw them in, because they're countersunk on one side make sure not to use the same one or else it'll push away and it won't actually work properly. You know here's the door that's gon na meet up with that magnet small screwdriver ever ah I'm, not used to working with anything, this small, so a few more hinges and small small screws and nuts that magnet already installed now I'm just going to install the other Hinge on this side and then I'll attach it to the inside part here which will close off this Bay. These are 1.2 size, screws and one point two sides, nuts, very, very tiny that looks fantastic. It is going to open easily just like that. The magnet closes it. The last thing I need on this is the guard rail for the top so nicely packaged. Well, when all is said and done there, it is project Johnson is well underway. Oh huge number of steps we got completed on today, and what do you think I want to know in the comment section? Is this something that you would ever attempt to build on your own? Does it look easier now that I've done a video on it, and this is something that you could tackle or have you already built something like this? Let me know also what's your opinion on the color.
Are you disappointed that I didn't go with the typical cat yellow? I don't think I am. I enjoy entertainment. I enjoy lots of different types of construction equipment and man. Oh man, look at this that hydraulic tank assembly looks fantastic this other side. This is gon na, be on the other side of the cab right behind it, a door with an access panel, or, I shouldn't, say a door with an access panel. It is the access panel, but with the steps on the side and the top guardrails everything looking fantastic, my friends so yeah I didn't get together with my buddies on YouTube Gold today, but we're going in the right direction. We'Ll see you in the next episode.