I know you've all been wondering and making huge guesses in my project overkill 2020, which axles I was going to run and you'll see here ba ba ba ba back order out of stock. You know why, because I have mine already here, that's right, but I want to say, let's have a look at this I'm in Canada for the front axle all all the parts to assemble it. Everything is 299 us, so that's 300 USD that means in Canada. For the f9 scx10 to Currie portal axle from vanquish, you are looking at 400. I paid for that front axle plus you're having to look at the back axle, which is not as complicated, thankfully, that is 200, so you're looking at about 280 dollars plus shipping, and on top of that I went with the the cert. The axle mounted servo for the steering, which was about additional there, you go 34.99 on the back, so about 55 dollars, plus shipping altogether over 600. Now this is an insane investment into project overkill 2020, but the original project overkill was also something that evolved over time. Of course, this is my 18 scale. Gmc Topkick body, just currently sitting on 4 RC 4 wheel Drive, tires they're 2.2 size now they're mud slingers. I went over this in the last video discussing that there was no RC four wheel drive on the sidewalls of this to say there were RC, four wheel drive, mud slingers and I thought they were clones.
And so then I went and I looked at my other mud slingers. I have on some of my scale trucks and they also don't, say RC four wheel drive on them, so that was very interesting because I had posted the question. Would you actually pay the money brand name products, or would you go for the less expensive knock offs, and it was very interesting in the comment section in the last video what some of your answers were and what some of the results and the reasoning behind some Of your results and answers, so thank you for participating in that. I would also like you to participate it in today, as well, because I'm, pretty sure I paid top dollar for brand name curry to be on these axles. Plus Vanquish says their products are Bar. None. Some of the bests that are out there I've also had success with the older vanquish products that are out there and I'm looking forward to assembling these. So I might as well start on let's, say the front. One. First, let's have a look at what's inside the bag it's like Christmas morning. Every time I get to do a build with you guys I get to discover new products. Hopefully, you guys do as well, although this product isn't new to market its new to the studio for me and man, oh man, look at that let's see if I can get a little back into that curry shot for you.
I wonder how much they had to pay for licensing fees on that it's, a fairly light axle housing. You can hear the metal there very nice moving on spiral, cut gears spiral cut pinion I like seeing that longevity is what that means for me and more power. Leave that open just off to the side. Fast Eddy bearings welcome back fast, Eddy you're in a lot of my fifth scale, stuff interesting, open race in the back there. I just thought there might have been some of you that didn't know what the race was. The race is that outer wall on a bearing. So you can see these ones are open. I wonder if I can put some grease in there manually or if I even need to, of course, this being a tough truck, it's gon na see some water, so I think I'm gon na do that here's. One of the big bonuses – I love seeing this when companies take the time to actually lay out proper instructions on how to build things instead of having a download link I'm sure they have that as well. It'S, probably on here at vanquish products com, possibly but the right there. I can put it together easy enough. That'S. One thing I noticed about copy brands. Unless it already comes preassembled. You never really know how to put it together, so good to know. Okay, so laid out on the table, so you can see the package contents of the front portal gear from vanquish.
You can see all the bearings from Fast Eddie down here on the bottom got some bushings drive pins, lock, nuts screws the gears for the portal assembly itself with the axles, the 12 millimeter hex adapters. These are bearing holders up to the spindles. These are all very light if you're wanting a lightweight truck like these, you can barely tell they're in your hand, it's like feather light stuff, which is good if you're looking to keep your weight down low or weight ratio low, I should say – and also here is Your 30 tooth spool and your 8 tooth, I like the helical gear spiral cut. Gears are the best, of course, in my opinion, for trail trucks, that's for sure, so, let's get into step one six screws into the spool gear. Now I believe the open race bearings are the one that the ones that go on either side of the spool and once it's packed. Then I introduce the bearing housing just like this on either side now. Don'T get me wrong these these, although these axles were very expensive, they are sold out everywhere, like when I was looking online. These black front ones are incredibly challenging to find right now they must be a very, very popular among the scale trail guys right now, because they are in limited supply. I will tell you what so there we go according to the instructions. I believe that is correct and then what I'm going to do is I'm going to take this, where this is going to mount up and as you can see, it kind of marries itself together as one unit right there, so a pretty brilliant design.
Actually, I love what I'm looking at here and if you guys know me at all, you knew darn. Well, I wasn't going to be able this to not put grease in there that's, just something that's essential for me when I'm building trucks that go in water is to have grease all around the bearings, and you know I try not to pack my gears so tight With grease because then that'll add a lot of resistance, but with the 3300 censored brushless motor that I have in here, it'll still be tons of torque. Even if I packed it full of grease in here which I'll be adding some to the pinion and then of course putting that on nice and greasy, you can hear metal on metal. Those are the teeth of the pinion and the spool gear, and then the housing. Just fit it in like this like a glove and then I'm gon na use this for these little guys, but I am actually gon na use threadlock on here for the blue cuz I'm. Pretty sure we got that right, getting the fourth one locked down here. I got ta say one of the things I really do like about this kit. Already is all the stainless steel screws so I'm, not gon na see a lot of rust right away like I have with other kits. Instead, it'll remain shiny, which is good, and then I poke a bearing down in the end after I added a little bit of grease behind it.
Okay, like most of my tutorials, I will usually assemble one side, so I know exactly what's going on and I've got to give a shout out to vanquish right now, because there's some innovation on this axle that I haven't seen before it's like check this out. This is a steering, throw limiter, it's, basically a screw and a washer if you've never seen one of these axles before and when the whole see hub turns with a steering spindle you'll notice that it bumps right there, we actually it's a steering limiter. We have this on the low c5t, the big 5th scales as well, where it actually stops the throw of the steering isn't that something also the way these screws now normally, when, when we have screws like this in the industry over the last decade, we screw go Into a plastic piece or into an aluminum piece that would basically overtime strip out because over time as this moves back and forth of steering a lot of these screws will work their way loose. Even if you do have thread lock in there. Well, not on these ones. I think and I'll show you exactly why, as we build this one so let's look at this see huh birth, spindle or whatever you want to call it. We'Re gon na take off this one screw that's just sitting there it's a small six mil three by six gon na take off this outer plate. That'S gon na reveal a lot of places where you're gon na have bearings and the actual drive gear itself, and I digress.
Let me get back to basics here, okay, so if we were actually building a portal gear, you're gon na want to start with this shaft right here. This shaft is gon na take a bearing first, then a drive. Pin then the actual drive gear itself then another bearing so I'll show you this assembled okay, so there it is with a greased bearing on it again. I want to make sure to have as much grease on those bearings as possible just to prevent rust, because I know I won't be seeing them again for a while then goes in the drive. Pin then goes in the drive gear. Some of you guys might want to use gloves crazy, Joe calls them bitch mittens. There you go and then the next bearing goes on that goes into place now. Do I have that right? This is supposed to be the six by twelve bearing. I believe I do have that correct we're going to take the plate. We'Re gon na run this straight through, so it sits in the plate, like so tada. Anybody who's built this right now is already fast forwarded through this part, but the people that asked me to build these in detail enjoy these parts. I want you to leave a comment right now, if you're still watching in the video – and you enjoy me putting these together for you, instead of just big updates. Let me know it's always nice, to hear from the from the viewers now a little out of order here, but it doesn't matter I'm.
Just gon na marry these two parts get them lined up properly, give it a good white that's what she said and then I'm gon na add the inserts right now now. This is what makes these so incredible. Look at this small insert. This is basically for the screw to be threaded into so it never strips out and if you do strip it out, for whatever reason, you're able to replace it, which i think is fantastic. So one of these are going to be added to the top and at the bottom, as well as brass brass, bushings I'll show you what I mean have a look brass on top, then the threaded piece on the bottom right here and then I'm going to do The exact opposite on the actual housing itself, I'm gon na put the the threaded piece down here and then the brass bushing up here so they're, basically going to be opposite of each other, allowing the screws to thread into those two pieces of thread. Even at this stage in the game, this is where I figured that I actually used the wrong bearing for the pinion. So if you were building along with me, I'm sorry, hopefully you noticed the very fat bearing that was sitting in the middle of the table. It'S got a very wide race on it, that's the one the pinion shaft was supposed to go through so I've already swapped it out which actually freed up the one that I'm supposed to use.
But first what I have to do is put a bearing got to put this bearing on to this axle stub, so let's get that on properly you'll, see on the inside that I've already greased the joint, so there's. No no need to do that and we'll put the gear on now. This is going to be the drive gear for the the portal axle. This is going to sit above the large gear that we installed earlier, which had the drive, pin on it and I'll just sit that into place like there and you'll see. As I start to twist, the bottom shaft you'll be able to see the top one move around so it's going to be in a reverse like when you're, normally spinning forward it's going to be going backwards with that's what you get when you get two stacked gears. One on top of each other, so for me, I'm, going to either have to install my motor backwards or reverse the motor. Now you kind of have to be patient at this stage. If you don't know where everything's lined up you're gon na have to gently try to wiggle and push it in it's, just that straightforward folks, there it is – and I slide that into position I'm gon na use some thread lock here on this screw that screws. In top and on the bottom now I'm, installing the bump stop for the steering. The six mil almost feels a little bit too long, but I think that's just because it just wants to snug up.
So if you feel it be a little bit tight force it. But not too hard next goes the drive pin, which is pretty easy to threads through and then the twelve mil hex adaptor. And then I can lock that into place where I don't ever have to worry about losing my hex adaptor, because they put that on now. Once I attach the steering horn and put a few of the extra pieces of hardware on there, this is what you are left with. My friends check that out a beautiful, beautiful portal axle all aluminum, seemingly fairly strong we'll, have to test that out and well thought out axle design. The back one is not as difficult because you don't have all the steering components involved: it's, just two portals and rear axle, and maybe I shouldn't say rear axle, I should say rear axle set because it's gon na be two of them of course, but see here At the same opinion and spool, I believe it is yeah and then two axles and then the bearing so basically go through the exact same thing, but without having to put on the steering assembly. But this time I'll be sure to put the right pinion bearing in where it's supposed to go for the output driveshaft six screws into the spool gear. Then pack, the bearings with grease and install put on the two bearing housings screw it on to the pinion, always test it to make sure it fits and works, mounting it directly on to the axle, housing and screwing it down.
Then we're going to take one of these pins and a bearing and over the the actual driveshaft, then we're, gon na, add drive, pin then the drive gear then another bearing and then we're gon na mount that in to the outer plate. Focusing there we've got lots of grease on there, so we can push it through be confident. There is a bearing up top in the plate. Then I installed the 12 mil hex adapter you'll notice. This one is black. It is not gray like the front, bearing goes in the end of the axle housing ready to receive the axle with the portal gear on it so axle. I slid the axle into the axle housing. The end cap just want to make sure it all lines up. There we go I'm gon na clear this grease out of the holes before I put the screws in there with some thread lock with the axle in place. The cover on the drive pin goes through same as the other. One then goes on the hex adapter. Tighten it up and then three screws around the outside. Well, when all is said and done, my friends check this out. It is definitely overkill. This is one of my most favourite projects. To date, I almost installed the rear, pinion carrier upside down. Thankfully, some viewers that had foresight and could see into the future, let me know that that was upside down. It was easy to install upside down, but no problem easy to flip around and make sure that when the video finishes, everybody has a great chance to get everything put together.
The way they need to guys. What do you think is that worth the cost of the vanquished products and having licensed Currie axles on your vehicle? I definitely think so for a project like this that's overkill. It definitely fits the bill. Hopefully you guys have left a like click for this project.