My name is Adam I’ll, be your host and I hope you find this patreon channel of your valuable resource if you’re in a micro RC of any kind. If you wanted the very first 25 subscribers to this channel, you automatically go on to the draw two with this modified Coco car. In this build video we’ll be taking a stock standard. 158 160 full scale, cocaine, Carro. This is about how fast they go stock but we’re going to take out the stock standard, motor and we’re going to replace it with a slightly oversized mater then fits back inside the car, Embora, with a couple. Little mods, basically it’s a straight fit as far as barrel. Size goes it’s, just the link that you have to deal with, but after you do, the modification you’ll find on your first drive that it was definitely well worth the effort. After all, it is probably one of the easier but applications I’ve ever done with the most outstanding results on a standard battery with a standard controller. Além disso, the first two patrons that ask I’ll: send them a free motor, OKEY, let’s get started. First thing you need to do is undo the two retaining screws underneath the car and put them aside, because they are longer than all the other screws in the car just to keep them separate. Then you want to pop the lid off the car. It should be a problem, it shouldn’t, let us completely be loose after that, and then you want to have a look at the component that you’re going to remove and the wires running to it and just see if the wires are filled up anywhere.
Get some tweezers. Nwo, Eu sou., just sort of pull them out a little bit, so they’ve got a bit of room to get in with the cutters. You know chop these in a minute. You can use side cutters to cut these or you can just use like some toenail clippers. You know anything, you want pretty much it’ll cut it small small scissors. Anything then you want to bend the wires out a little bit, so you’ve got access for stripping, tinning and resoling. The next thing you want to do is get a small screwdriver and remove the gearbox retaining screw post and magnetize a screwdriver before you do this, so the screw comes out. If you didn’t, then use some small tweezers to remove the screw. If you want to magnetize your screwdriver, just rub it on the back of a speaker or a needy odium magnet now getting the gearbox cover off just pop one of the plastic clips at the back either one will do you don’t have to bend it or break It just pop it off basically and because the screw is not in the front. Basicamente, they should just pop open like that. Now next thing to do is remove your internal gearbox components, which is the rear, axle kit and also the compound gear and shaft. This is just so that if you turn the car around or flip it upside down, while working on it, these parts don’t fall on the floor.
OKEY, the next thing you want to do is get the motor out of it can easily do this with a flat screwdriver. I tend to use my tweezers for everything so just lever it off the end and push on it, eles são, not actually in very tight and they’re retained by their plastic. When you screw, the gearbox retain it in which we’re going to remove anyway. So take the pinion off the motor they’re easy to get on and off that is to pull on and push on fit and throw the motor away or take it apart. Never look inside if you’re curious – and this is a mobile big thing – it’s ten millimeters longer doesn’t seem like much, but the results speak for themselves. Now we need to take a little piece out of here. This is basically the mod you have to do mainly. This is the thing that stops the motor from sliding back out and we have to cut it away so that that extra two millimeters can poke through that spot. Now my knife is extremely blunt and be sharp and twice already so I’m not going to cut into it, even though it’s fairly malleable plastic, but they’ve accepted means if you’ve got sharp little colors or something like that, you can easily just chop it out. If you take too much it’s not going to be a problem, if anything it’s going to be a little bit, lighter that’s, never a bad thing.
So just take that piece out and after you removed it then maybe use the hobby knife to just clean off any burrs that might have come from the cutting process. Bits and eggs like that left behind, never ever cut towards yourself like this. If you get caught on plastic and a knife comes free, it will slice right through your finger at a heartbeat anyway, stripping the wires now you’ve got to strip the wires 14. I find that by just gently pushing it onto a blade in two places: there’s enough or if you can, you roll the wire on the blade very gently with the finger pressure and I’m yeah just grab your nails in there really tight and strip the sheeting off. Some way you can actually just strip the sheathing without even pre cutting it or whatever. I found it’s easier to put a twist in the wire end by rolling the sheathing side and pinching the wire side. You’Ll need to do the same to both obviously and for ting. You just need to get soldering iron and basically overload the island with a little bit of lead and heat off the wire, so that the flux does its job and the lead starts to stick I’d. Only swipe a little bit to try and leave a bit of extra lead behind depends on the kind of connections I’m doing at the time this one I just did a bend in connection pretty rough.
One of that now most motors will come pretend, but I always like to go over it a little bit more on for an easy, Rápido, quick connection, and sometimes they pretend with a silver basic silver. Então, if using a lead based solder, it’s always good to just go back over it with the lead before you do solder them together. Now the fun part, if you’re going to solder wires together, Assim, you would most in most cases, put some heat shrink on right now as an Ursula to slide back over the connection. Depois, I don’t have any heat shrink. This fine but I’ll show you what to do after this for reinstallation just use tape basically and that’s. It that’s just a really dodgy end to end connection as long as the LEDs there it’s good enough and there’s the tape I was talking about. I normally just use this kind of tape, pretty much for everything human I’ve build micro icees, it just seems to be a little bit more durable and flexible, and all you really need to do. This is a lot voltage system and it runs 1.2 Volts, vertol amperage. In there you just need to get it like one or two one or two coatings of tape on there and you’ll never have a problem. One would be enough, but two just makes a lot easier, just wrap it around there I mean make it look so easy. It’S take so damn long to do, but tapes good enough for this sort of thing, not necessarily, if it’s a lithium job for this sort of thing, Sim, not a drama.
Now I always do a quick test. All electrical connection work on that before I reassemble a vehicle, por isso é, just a quick test. Okay you’ll have to pretend that the motor wires are soldered together, but this is how you put the motor in the gearbox back together. You pretty much just push the motor. All the way home it stops up against the shoulder of the motor anyway, it finds its own position and reverse to how you took it. Apart put your compound gear and shaft back in make sure they don’t have any hair or fluff in there put your rear axle back in and if it looks right, everything’s in place, then just pop the lid back over the top very gently and try this drop. It back on like that and just push down gently. It pays to sort of rotate the wheels at this point when you’re closing it just so. The gears line up a little bit better as you’re, shutting it and make sure that you haven’t got any binding in the gearbox. And if you find that it’s fine put the retaining screw back in always go backwards of these plastics. And till you hear it. Click or feel the threads start and then go forwards. That way, you can take the screws in and out multiple time for that damage and then check again make sure there’s no binding and that at this point, you’d only just turn it on and and far enough.
But yeah a little bit NNE area here, which happened because I lost some footage or deleted footage. I didn’t think I need it until about now so yeah that’s it that’s he gearbox back in now. I found it’s best to just get something on the little end. Cap crimps or whatever they call them and just reposition the motors angle. So the leads are as far away from the wheel as possible and if it’s you know, as it should be, where the wires connected so bend them up a little bit and sort of tuck them in often some tape over the top just to retain those wires Back onto the board now because it says someone’s prize for the 2500 subscriber drop I’m – basically just gluing it in with superglue. It will be permanent and truer that way unless someone really wants to get it out and then just drop the body kit back on the car. Pretty much from there is finished, put the two screws in give it a drive, give it a charge and that’s it away. You go it’s a lot of fun from there, so that’s pretty much it. If you want to see how to finish the car just want to be put two screws and really quickly with the rear, kalloch and that’s it. This car is the prize, as mentioned before, para o 2500 subscriber draw on YouTube. If you’d like to have a click on the link on this patreon site and go there and enter by all means do so, I hope you’ve enjoyed this first.
Espero, a few or many patreon builds that I’ll be doing, and I hope you’ll look out for my videos on YouTube and give comments, ideas and subscribe to patreon. And you know if you’re keen and one of them subscribe, learn a bit about how to have a go at it. Ask questions if you need to.