This is chris here with tgh today, we’re going to go over uh what you get with a sherpa. So when you order a sherpa kit from tgh homes, hobbies or super shafty um, this is this is what you get and and we’re gon na do a quick rundown on on how it assembles so um. The sherpa is available in a few different materials. You can get the sherpa kit and carbon fiber, which is what we have here. So um carbon fiber, three millimeter chassis. You can get it in a sport model which is aluminum and you can get it in a special edition g10 model at the moment. Some other things you get, you can select your choice of transfer case overdrive ratios, so you can either select between 0 E 15. The transfer case has an angled, skid or excuse me, an angle on the bottom of the transfer case and that’s to complement the angled skid. It helps keep the driveline angles proper, so there’s that we’ll be assembling a 15 overdrive and you can tell the difference uh. If you look closely, you can see that the front output, bearing is closer to the input shaft than the rear output, bearing the other thing. You’Ll get is you’ll, get an avid container with all the necessary hardware to assemble the chassis and the mounts and components: Um 67 millimeter anodized spacer, maybe or not the tgh hh ford motor mount. It should come assembled tgh panhard and the tgh dual servo mount.
So with that, oh and one more thing: the tgh v2 delrin skid in the pack with the skid you’ll get four m3 by 12 millimeter screws. Uh cap screws and you’ll get four m 3 Por 20 stainless set screws the tools we’ll need for this operation. I prefer a light or adjustable quick, quick change. Hex driver this particular unit’s set on four that keeps me from over torquing anything. This particular model is bosch. We’Ll need a 1.5 millimeter mip driver with a quarter inch quick chuck. We will need a m2 hex driver and a 2.5 quick chuck m 2.5 Rápido, chuck uh hex wrench as well. So those are the three things we’ll need to assemble. So for me, the first thing i do is i open the skid empty. The screws and i assemble it to my left rail. So when i assemble to the left rail uh, there are three holes in the bottom of the of excuse. Me four holes in the bottom of the belly we’re going to go to the second hole and we’re going to match the second hole up with the front of the skid. You can tell the front of the skid two ways: there’s one single hole in the front and two pairing holes in the rear or the front of the skid is straight across relative or compared to the batwing style at the rear of the skid. Então, novamente, the first thing i do is i line up this front single hole with the second hole in the belly of the skid, and i start an m2 or excuse me, an m3 12 millimeter cap screw and once that started, we can now start the rear.
One from there i moved to the excuse me to the right side of the chassis and i’ll. Do the same. I’Ll repeat the process, the second hole in the belly of the skid get it started just to save time, i’ll go ahead and start by hand. My my rear, rear screw and i’ll snug those down at this point we’ve got our skid bolted to our chassis, so we can go one of two ways. Now we can either install our 67 millimeter spacer or our servo mount and motor mount i’ll elect to use the 67 millimeter spacer. So to do that, i’ll empty this kit of hardware and i’ll separate it. So i have a 5 Por 11 Por 4 millimeter bearing that’s used to lock up the spur. I have a m4 washer. That goes on top of that and i have an m4 nylock nut that’s for my motor motor mount spur gear assembly. Then i have two: you should be able to find two m3 by m3 by sixes cap screws. Those m three by six cap screws are the screws that we will use for our 67 millimeter spacer. For now, until we build out the rest of our truck, i usually just split the holes in the back of the chassis. Então, in the back of the chassis there are a series of six holes, so i usually elect to go right in line with the hh emblem and start my spacer there.
So i put a screw through the chassis. I grab the spacer. Hopefully you can see this and i just turn the spacer by hand until it’s started once i’ve done. That then i’ll go to the other side and i’ll pinch the chassis and start that screw 67 millimeter spacer is installed so from there we’re going to loosely start. We’Re going to loosely start our tgh dual servo mount, so the hardware we will need for that. We will need four m3 by 10 millimeter screws. So here we have them now, when we’re mounting our servo mount, there is a series of three holes on the left side of the chassis that we’re going to pay attention to one here, underneath the shock hoop and then two more up here and those two are: What we will mount our panhard to so we line up the back hole in our servo mount with this hole underneath the shock hoop and we use one of our m3x10s. Then we start that and leave it loose while we’re on this side of the chassis we’ll mount our panhard to mount our panhard. It will sit like this, so we will use one more of those m3 by 10 millimeter cap screws and start it in the dual servo mount. We can then take another m3 by 10 and mount it in the front of the servo mount we’ll flip the chassis over and start the other side. Nwo, on the other side, one m3 by 10 – again underneath the shock hoop, then we will take an m3 by eight millimeter screw and we will put it in the not the very front of the three holes, but the middle hole is where our m3x8 goes.
So once we have that started, we’ll go ahead and tighten those down now. One way you can tell you have the right screws in the right place is: when you look at the servo mount, there should be no more than a half a millimeter of screw sticking through the dsm where the panhard connects and uh two millimeters of screw on The opposite side, where the eight millimeter screw went through all right, so there’s that um the next step is to mount our motor mount. This motor mount can be mirrored and we’ll go over that in another video. So make sure you subscribe to catch that. So when we mount the motor mount, we will line up with the first hole off center of the shock hoop to the rear and then the lowest hole that is in the hoop itself, not in the outer sprocket. So these two holes, one here, hole, number two here and we will use three by eight screws. Two of the three by eight screws, we’ll move it over and we’ll do the same thing to the other side, with two three by eight screws. Now one thing i didn’t show you was assembling the spur gear assembly and we’ll go over that whenever we talk about mirroring the motor plate, why would we mirror the motor plate? Ask? Bem, some axles have opposite offset. Some axles have a left side drop is what i would call it Music and if that’s the case, we may need to move our motor mount to the other side, and we can do that by mirroring the mount all right.
So what you have left in your kit at this point is four m3 by 20 set screws, and that is what you would use to mount your links to the skid we’ll set those aside for now. You have your lock up assembly for your spur gear and a set of spur plates, which i failed to grab for this video. So i apologize. Then we take our transfer case. We have two m3 by 10 countersunk screws and we will take our take one of those screws in the back hole. We will push it up through the bottom. We will line up this hole underneath the front output with that said, screw get it started. This is where we use our m2 driver just loosely start that screw. We will then flip this chassis over and we will line up the opposite or the front mounting hole, make sure it lines up in our skid. So there we have it right there. We’Ll then take our second m3 by 10.. We’Ll loosely start that now i’ve built a few of these. So i would suggest that you start with sliding this sliding the transfer case all the way to the right side of the truck or all the way to the passenger side of the truck before you tighten it down. Then we at that point we can tighten those screws down like such and there you have it. There is the basic assembly of the tgh homes, hobby sherpa, expert kit.