Today I have a very unique build to show off. This is a Roman props, Graflex replica. This is the generation 2. There were a couple of changes made to this newer generation of Graflex and it also features a 78 inch, solos hold blade, holder, Lumina, blade, holder and so there’s a bit of backstory. On this build, I was contacted by master stats last year around the holidays, and he said he was looking to have a build done for the original 1977 Graflex on this install and then he said he also wanted to do a Darth Vader DD 6. So that would be coming in a later video, but this one is now complete. The first of the two sabers he requested and so there’s a pretty unique backstory to this lightsaber build and I’ll go into a little bit of that, and then we’ll jump right in and talk about everything. This saber can do master stats when he started communicating with me. He let me know that he was not going to be able to use these sabers to their fullest capability, and I was shocked to learn that he, in his current condition that he was a quadriplegic and so correct me master stats. If I mess any of this up in the comments – or you know, I’ll corrected or whatever, but the way that I understand it is an evil Sith that was a robber shot him in the neck, and he was you know, paralyzed, and it has been in a Quadriplegic state for over a decade now, so this is kind of more or less his 10 year, anniversary of being in the current condition that he’s in and so when we talked about doing the build and his preferences, and I sent him like you know my questionnaire Sheet that has a couple of pages of preferences and metals and colors and everything he let me know that he wanted to use the Roman numeral X on this to show that he was at his ten year mark so yeah.
I just I got ta say that uh when it when it comes to situations like this, I always have the utmost respect for people to find themselves in these situations. They didn’t ask for you know. Obviously unfairly and master statuses is an amazing guy he’s. A true optimist, a true fan, and so when we first started talking about this, he said you know, I don’t want anything too crazy. Fancy or you know anything super elaborate, and you know after hearing more and more about the situation, I myself have spent lots of time in and out of hospitals. I’M now a three time cancer survivor, and so this particular build really hit home with me, and I wanted to go above and beyond and do something really amazing – and I know some of you guys probably watched my channel and you’re like who is this Jedi arms Dealer guy being cocky with his worlds first and all this stuff and yeah, but you know I’m uh I’m, not a very competitive person or real life, I’m, actually super relaxed and chilled out. But when it comes to creativity and stuff yeah, I like I like really pushing the boundaries in the envelope of electronics and and what’s new and innovative, and especially on lightsabers, and so this is why I do what I do. A situation like this comes along and this business, where I get to do my thing, and so you know, of course I couldn’t build him, just something simple that’s, just not my style that’s, not what I do so.
I think thinking about his situation during the course of this bill. I think we’re around the six week mark really pushed me and in my abilities and the envelope on what I want to do electronically. With this thing, and so this saber does quite a bit and we’re gon na dig into that. But, ironically, I had been researching how to make lightsabers remote control and in the previous video last class Lex video I have the one where I’m able to just control the on and off the blade, activation and deactivation with two buttons on a remote control. Bem, I started digging it a little deeper and I found a remote control that actually will control two different momentary switches and it sounds like this is perfect and you know I let master stats know: hey I’m, pretty sure I can build you, this Graflex, to where Yo, you actually be able to interact and use this saber in your current condition, and so he pretty much. Let me know that he still has use of his index fingers, and so I wanted to you know, take that to the next level, and so this is kind of what I came up with this. Is this the same remote control, that’s in the glass flux, and so here it is, and basically the equivalent of these two buttons is a right here. Is your main activation and deactivation to switch on the red button and B works.
The slide switch a slide tap switch on the Graflex, so we’re going to go through all the functions of what these things can do. You can completely control the saber from top to bottom, with this car remote control and, É claro, you I had to put give you a Graflex keychain. So everybody knows what this is for it doesn’t get confused or lost. So there you go master stats prize number. One okay, I’m, trying to think if there’s anything else before we get started on the fonts, and all this I got ta say it was an absolute pleasure working with master stats. He was a graphic designer for many years, and so was I, and so it was really nice to collaborate with someone on an artistic level and everything that he picked out for them. You know he wanted a lot of brass in here and clear acrylic and you know just I was just loved everything he picked out for this thing and I’m gon na hate to see it go I’ve been just messing with it and you know using it draining The battery down and charging it back up just to make sure you know everything’s good to go in the saber and I’m telling you I’m gon na have to build one myself, because this this is it’s pretty cool. Eu acho que sim. We’Ll see what you guys think so: let’s go ahead and dive in I’m gon na go ahead and talk about the outside of the saber and what we decided to do with some options and the weathering he I always start with the emitter.
So he has a blade plug. He sent me, I believe it’s, the kr sabers, blade plug and so we’ve got the brass button in there with the spring. This is a piece of 78 inch acrylic that I found actually fits in and out of the socket pretty snug and I’ll explain why later that, I just wanted this to be a friction, fit blade plug so it’s in it wasn’t when it’s in the chassis. You can swing it around and will fly out or anything but what’s really unique about this. Is I went ahead and took a tritium core now, if you guys know anything all about tritium. This is something that I used to put in my crystal chambers. A long time ago, when I first started doing this back in around 2006 on eBay, I was making crystal chambers back then, and I used to put these Tripp little pieces of tritium it’s a tritium vial in there, and it has like a stainless steel top on It this one was set up to be like a necklace, and so it has like a hole that goes to the top of it. What’S really crazy about these things, and then what I’ve done is just pretty much filled it with epoxy and so it’s. Almost look like it’s floating in there. I want it to look almost like a liquid cooled emitter with some bubbles in it or something like that, and so, when I first put the epoxy in there.
This was all clear and I was like it’s a shame that you know there’s no bubbles in there to make it kind of look like it’s bubbling from the heat from the 8 from the lightsabre beam coming out of it, and so lo and behold about an Hour into the curing process with the epoxy this expanded because you get the epoxy gets really hot in there, while it’s curing and then it contracted and actually crack the acrylic and suck bubbles into the blade plug and then sure and then cured like that. So this thing is rock solid it’s not going anywhere. You could drop this probably off a 10 story building but um so yeah. This is some epoxy work in there with some stainless steel metal and then a tritium vial in there, and if I cover this up even a little bit of light and see, we get the focus you don’t have to expose this to light or anything it’s its Own it’s almost like a miniature fusion reaction going on inside of there and it puts off a dim blue light for up to 10 years. So there you go master steps, there’s a surprise number one for your your 10 year anniversary, so we’ll go ahead and put this in after I get the chassis out and show you how to use this particular blade plug this thing’s, pretty wild, so we’ll set that Off to the side, for now now, as far as the weathering goes, I asked master stats, Você sabe: do you want to go with something super clean and shiny, or do you want to go with the heavy weathering, medium weathering and at first he said he wanted To go with light weathering, and so what I do is give it like a flat gray wash from top to bottom, and then I go over it with the grain of the Graflex with white steel wool and take it down to where you just have.
You know dirt in the corners and stuff, and so I did one treatment of that and I set him. You know photos from every angle of his graphics and he said you know what let’s go ahead and do a second coat on it. I said: okay well drop a second flat gray coat on it and you know take it down again well in the middle of the second coat after it, dried I’ll, say yeah, you know what I’ll go ahead and send him some progress. Videos on what it looks like kind of as a medium weathering job instead of a light weathering job, and so this is the state that I sent it to him turns out. He really like this. I really liked it too it’s kind of almost like a like a marbling effect, and so you decide you want to leave it this way, and I really like this. I think this came out pretty cool and I think that, like in my mind, the fictitious story behind it would be well. Maybe this is what it looked like. While it was chilling and OB ones chest in the desert in Tatooine, and so when he knew Luke was about to come of age, you know he pulled it out of his chest and swapped out some of the burnt parts from Mustafar put a new bubble strip On it, instead of a circuit card from Anakin saber – and you know, swapped out some of the buttons and the glass eye and started to update it, but hadn’t quite cleaned up the outside, yet from Mustafar, so it’s a little bit dirty before he cleaned it up Before he actually handed it to Luke in his Hut, so in my mind, that’s kind of like the stage that this was in chillin in his chest.
As far as electronic selection goes at first, I was considering doing the prism 5.1. I started thinking hey if Master stats is gon na, be controlling this thing with a remote control, let’s go ahead and use a sound card that currently holds. You know almost the the sound font, a number of fonts record, and that would be the ignitor 3. It holds 16 fonts now you know I realize your teensy savor boards and stuff they go higher than that, but you know that’s that’s, something normally you reserved for neopixels and stuff like that, not always, but most the time, so the nikon card turned out to be The way to go because master stats will not only be able to control this entire saber with the two buttons on the remote it’ll also be able to play. Music i’ve got over three hours worth of different types of music on here or there’s. Three different tracks. Actually and the again, the second track is, like you know: oh the over two and a half hours of the Star Wars original trilogy, and then I got a couple surprises in there that uh. You know what we’ll play real quick when we get towards the end, but let’s go ahead and start from let’s go to start with the fonts and we’ll start from the emitter on the weathering and so yeah. You guys already saw the blade plug. We weathered the ass tip in here see if we get the focus, the bass, the brass springing push button and then you know we weathered the weather the front and the emitter and the bunny ears slide tap switch and then he wanted a smoked glass eye and So what I came up with when I fire this up you’ll see, is this the first time I’ve come up with multiple options: cuz he really likes to shine through as well, but said he wanted it to look.
You know more in the universe type of Graflex, and so he went he opted for the for the blacked out glass eye where no light comes through, so Master sets another surprise what I did I’ve never done this before, but what I did is experimental thing is: When you activate the saber here, we go enfant one. This is what you get now. I don’t think everybody see this on camera I’m gon na see. If I can get it closer yeah, you can barely make it out let’s good and turn it on and see. If we can, this node right here is shine through and it has the Jedi logo shining through. If you want to black it out, you just unscrew the glass eye difficult to do with the gloves are always unscrew the glass eye and then you’re gon na pop. The clear eye out, and then you leave the glass eye in there and then here’s an insert. This is a press fit, and this has the Jedi logo on it and shines through now. If you want to go with the blacked out version, you got one of two ways you can do. This we’ll put the thinner one in so I’ve got a clear one for you. If you want to just do regular shine through with no logo and then there’s a blade plug version or I’m sorry, a blade retention version, that’s taller, that’s blacked out that doesn’t allow any light through, and that could be your blade retention.
There’S. Além disso, a smoked version that cuts the light down it’s about 50, and then you have your full blacked out black version here now. Every one of these discs press fits into this glass eye, and so those those are your options. You’Ve got about five different options, so there we are we’re blacked out now and then you just pop that in there it’s a press fit, and then you screw this in and you’re secure again. So let’s go over some of the fonts while the Sabres assembled and there we are we’re blocked out so because master stats wanted this to be an in universe. Graflex is a blue blue white, tri Cree and then getting down we’ve aged the pins, and I got to give a shout out to Jordan Eugene. He really helped me out a lot with thee. This is my first time doing this solos hold bladeholder. I think I’ve done all the others on the planet, but this one, and so this is what master stat sent me. Was the solos hold 7h inch, accurate, blade, holder and it’s it’s great it’s, it’s amazing, but um originally, when I, when I got this, I started looking at it and it had the kind of like a like a dull matte finish to it, and I was thinking To myself that I can’t decide, if this is, Você sabe, powder coated or anodized, and so it was weird for me. I watched a bunch of videos and googled everything and I didn’t find anywhere where people were talking about just sticking the LED with the heat transfer tape all the way in the back of the blade holder, because it says you know right on on solos holds website That this this has a built in heatsink to it.
It was just I had never put an LED on like a matte black surface and once thinking well, that is strange, I’m used to putting it on raw aluminum to where you know the heats gon na transfer through. So I couldn’t really find anything specific online about you know covering this subject to people to people grind off the coating like stick it to the aluminum. I was like that can’t be so. I contacted Jordan Eugene. He said yeah man, you just stick it on the back of the stick it on the back of the heatsink and it so in heatsink module its own heatsink built into the blade holder. And so he says: hey, Você sabe, it’s anodized and so anodizing is a permanent part of the surface of metal and the heat will transfer through there, which is still strange to me, because if you put a multimeter on anodized aluminum, it doesn’t conduct electricity. Whereas if you put a multimeter on aluminum most of the time, you know it’ll it’ll conduct electricity, so obviously the fact that it won’t that it that it will conduct electricity but not heat, so anyways. Obrigado, Georgie gene. You solved the problem for me and then also I saw on a couple of Jordan Eugene’s videos. He had reused the the either the vintage or the replica hardware inside these holes here and now that was a little challenging because you had to get out the Dremel and cut these down super short.
And so then you can see the electronic hardware in there for syncing things here and here and then you know we went in a weather, didn’t stuff, so yeah the pins are weathered, sync tabs were weathered, and then you got your standard bubble strip from Roman props And so there’s some weathering and grit behind it, but I kind of kept you know, most of it fairly shiny and new. Looking on the outside, but it’s just kind of gritty. On the back side, you got your Romans clamp moving further down. We weathered the grips and then I did some pretty cool things and pretty different things, unique things to the to the d ring and the d ring bracket. É claro, I weathered the end of this. We used some steel wool on the whole saber top to bottom. To get me to get the sheen off of it and then did did the flat gray on it. But what I wanted to do here is you know, with the anewhopeee configuration I always do. The kind of like oval hole under the clamp that you can’t see and then lift it up with a washer and the sound comes out here and here otherwise it’s just super muffled. You can’t really get the sound out of it. So the other thing I did was this is the allen bolt that came with the Romans, the Romans kit. This came assembled and I’ve drilled that out, so that was drilled all the way through to the speaker, and then I put this on the drill press and tried to get the you know the hex tool kind of disappear as much as I could so on display You can barely see that it’s, a hex bolt a hex head bolt and then I put the sander on it and ground this down a little bit to get the lip off of it, and I to look as much like a rivet as it could.
But I still wanted to keep it modular, so you can still put a tool in there and unscrew this if you needed to for it. Whatever reason you know down the road, but all of the sound modifications been done to this and then as far as the orientation goes, what I’ve noticed let’s see when you release the clamp here and you pull this back, look how the sound hole is closed up Or if you rotate the bottom half and the sound holes closed up, so the position I like to put it in just for sound and for looks, is, with the clamp, loosened I like to push it together like this. Now you get extra sound here here and here so the way to look at it is is, if you line up these two holes on the clamp with the beer tab straight line and then a straight line on the grip. This is what I found for the loop for the loudest configuration because the ANU hopes of configuration is really difficult to get. You know loud it’s, they say sound muffled unless you do some pretty serious modifications to get the sound out of this thing. So it came out pretty sweet, either I’m really happy with the how loud it is. So all right that pretty much covers the outside let’s go ahead and fire this up go through some fonts. I did a lot of font work on this. You know again, the ignitor 3 comes with 16 fonts 10 of the fonts.
Are you know the stock fonts right off an igon electronics and then I think 2 of the fonts were fonts, that you know I had in the bank and that you know I built in for master stats 2 to put in the saver and then 4 of The fonts were ones that I created myself and it drove me nuts that nobody had the the training droid seen from a new hope for the NAG on card. So I just went out myself. I downloaded the the audio and cut it up and it came out pretty cool, so met very go master sets you’ve got. I think I believe you’ve got the only knockout electronics version of my version of the training remote droid on the Millennium Falcon when Luke’s training with the sabre, so anyways let’s do font one and uh. You know we’ll go over the function of the saber with with the actual buttons, so here we go font electronic, so incredibly sensitive and then your blasters get back in here with the slide tap switch just like and then walk up, give it a second or two Before you go into lockup mode mode, otherwise I’ll just get daily basis, but and give it a second or two and then push it down and stir it again. So power townhall go to the next font, which I believe this in magan’s flat and so because master stats wanted an in universe Graflex. He didn’t really want the saber to have any quotes from the movie, which I thought was pretty classy.
So he just wanted. Like you know, electronic sounds and noises to designate the different fonts. So over the course, the years I have been able to get ahold of quite a few of samples from Ben Bert’s collection without any music in the background or noises so that’s. What each one of the sixteen sound font boot sounds. Ours is just little pieces of the collection that I’ve done over the years, so let’s see let’s, go to the next font, so there’s the door on the desktop number two I’m, not gon na do all of them in all the you know, let’s go to find Three, I think that one’s from Empire when he comes up when Luke comes up to the floor, and so I picked out myself a little bit of music on there for you. If you wanted to switch it to the second, so I’m, just gon na kind of go through the rest of the boots, I might stop stop out a font that you know I created, but I just want you guys to hear the boot sounds: it’s pretty cool Oops that again, Music Laughter dual phase. Now what I did was, I made a switch from like a really white light to blue light. This is hard to do with the gloves on so let’s see you’ll do the next next one little x wing, foils opening next time. Oh and one other thing I forgot to mention this is also gon na, be the operating manual for master stats and so with the nikon electronics that works different than a lot of the other cards, and, Basicamente, what you have to do is once you hear the Boot sound for each individual font, like the, for instance of this.
If you don’t touch this button again before the sample ends, it’ll stay on that font, so the trick is to advance to the next font, you’re gon na click it and then click it again before it ends and that’s gon na. Take you to the next font. So that’s how you cycle, through the fonts pretty deep start up and on that one next month, South on the noggin love that swing that’s pretty great next came. I believe this is the training remote on the Millennium Falcon. So here today in an igon garden, and so the clash is basically like when the remote enjoyed you know, suits, suits loot from the stairs that raining another boot sound, see Millennium, Falcon, hyperdrive and let’s see it’s get to the one there we go. This is the one I’m super proud of tracking down no music, just a sample that says last tortured ride, which is in herself there you go so almost to the end. Bem. So this lets, you know the air on the last 16 Isto é, the Millennium Falcon hyperdrive. Failing and of course, no lightsaber is complete without also acting as a hydrospanner, as am i doing that right inside the lightsaber. So this is a fault. I just threw a bunch of crazy noises together and you know made it sound. Like I don’t know, maybe one of the droids communicating with the Millennium Falcon’s computer or something so, and so these were some sounds.
I got off of Scott’s site and I got electronic site and download and then mixed them up with a bunch of different mechanics, sound samples. So yeah you get the picture on that one. So we’ll go advance it to the next first phone. Do that common one, and then I want to show you how much your music to play long sample on the way down and there we go: OKEY, OKEY, so we’re back to font, one now master stats! If you want to play your music, if you’re operating the tactile switches on the saber to play music, you’re, basically going to push and hold, and the aux button which is here just do this eat so advanced that song there’s only three tracks on here, but they’re. Really long, I think all the trailers comes out too and then, É claro, you got to two and a half hours of original trilogy. You know just keep back, relax, listen to two and a half hours of your original trilogy collection and then the last one is a surprise. Past life I was a DJ for many years, and so this is like one of my favorite DJ mixes, this Applause. Thirty. Second, sand Applause: Applause turn on the samurai interact with a Balinese, explain: we’ll, be fine without it that advances the track and hold it down. Aplausos, interesting: lá vamos nós, you just have to leave it in the down position and then it’ll go back over two legs.
Yeah let’s go ahead and get this show you how to get this chassis out of here and here’s, where the real fun begins. I also wanted to let you know on the d ring. I do a special trick in the vise that keeps this from rattling it’s. Why I didn’t hear any rattles also did a little trick on the bunny ears, so they don’t rattle. If you miss your rattling, hey you want it to rattle around. You just do this and it goes back to rattle mode. But when it’s in the 90 degree position like this, it stays there and it will not rattle. So there you go there’s that so let’s go ahead and get this guy out of here. Gon na release the clamp, rotate, your lower half go ahead and pull it out, and it is reveal time again now. These are all master stats, preferences on metals and everything. There are some surprises in here for him that he doesn’t know about, but this is a crystal reveal and yes, I went a little crazy on it, so this is kind of how you’ll set it up in display mode like this, and this is when the saber Actually sounds the best I tuned the speaker. I moved it into the chassis just far enough, so that, when you put this on here like this in display mode, a crystal reveal mode. You’Re gon na put the back half on like this just to where this little black stripe is barely showing this the speaker module on the back and then this thing is crazy loud in this mode.
There you go no surprise, mastodons build never done only one who said this: a kind of shoe let’s not start as an amazing artist, a new illness let’s go ahead. Get this thing the rest of the way out super easy. Take the bottom half back off undo, the clamp will get and slowly take this off there we go and then you’re going to do. The only thing you have to do to remove it completely from the hilt is unscrew your glass. I set that off to the side and then this is where you’re always gon na grab it either push it in or pull it out of the hilt right here. This is the strongest part of the saber. Here I mean all this stuff’s in there really secure, but this is the strongest part of the saber down. Aqui. Is this actual speaker module so grab the hilt and you just pull them apart? It’S a super snug fit because I don’t like any rattling. So here we go there, you go and it comes out. So this is your entire reveal and I’ll go ahead and fire it up and do a 360 once over and then I’ll kind of go over every detail of it. So one of the things that I discovered is, I went with the almost like slide. Rocker switch on this and there’s two holes that come pre drilled in the solos hold blade holder here in here to hold this switch into place, and so what I did differently was use two acrylic rods and epoxy to hold this in here.
So when you fire it up, you get extra lighting everywhere. Let me do it 360. You guys can see what all we did with this thing. These are acrylic inserts wire covers here, and here this is etched laser etched stainless steel insert I play here through the slide. Tab switch the slide into and make connection you just touch. This is all your arts. Offense played lockup what’s you’re, seeing right there, as I did my own, take on the plasma gate and the wires that you’re seeing in there are the actual wires that feed dally, deer and a piece of clear acrylic. That goes all the way down to the LED module, and I did the fiber optic mirroring with the acrylic rod again in this build so white, and so what this guy is instead of down talk a little bit more about this section inside the plasma gate area. What this guy is right here is I’m, always picking up crazy. Like LEDs, jewelry LEDs, you know whatever I can find that’ll work in these builds, and this has so, Eu acho, three or four, very small, red and blue LEDs that when you apply power to it, they just flicker like crazy, and it kind of reminded me of, Like the blade effect when you’re in blocked up mode – and I was like you know what I’m gon na want to put heat shrink all over – that and solder positive negative onto it – incorporate it into the system and so that’s.
What happens whenever you do? A blade lock up or flash on clash this. This kind of like goes crazy inside the plasma gate area, just kind of showing that the blade beam is being a you know, disrupted and stuff. So let’s see that pretty much covers the blade holder in the plasma gate section right here. I added a bunch of brass screen and what’s. Underneath this brass screen are the receivers for the remote control. One of these controls the a button one of these controls the B button – and you know likewise, controls the main and the aux. These are there’s miniature antennas in here, and so, when I put the brass screen in, it did diminish the range a little bit cut. It in half but you’re you’re still good to go on plenty of of range and then you know see you’ll get in here a little closer. Let me turn a light on above and see. If we get a little more. Let me set this down Music there. We go now we get in here and check out some serious, grievous, so yeah that’s the plasma gate in there, those the actual wires, my 30 gauge milspec, clear, shielding, silver coated and copper wiring and they wrap around the clear acrylic tube. That mirrors. You know the LED and they’re encased in a glass tube with stainless steel ends on it and thence. Você sabe, we’ve got some greebles. I also incorporated a lot of the leftover Romans parts.
Suppose you see the two silver ones in there that are left over from the the bulb socket assembly that comes out from the original Romans working flash moving further down the build. He wanted all click clear, acrylic discs in here separating things and I’m noticing, as I get more intricate on these disks, I cut more almost gear patterns in here and stuff, with the really thin acrylic it’s, not quite strong enough when we start cutting these gear patterns And on the outside, and so I went with started, started using the thick and then the really thick stuff on the laser cutter, which makes it super strong. Now you can probably like duel with this, maybe a little bit into the end of the medium dueling. But you know I’m able to do more things. If I know this is gon na be a display saver, and so you know that’s why I went pretty nuts on this ones, because I you know I figured master steps was gon na use this for display, and so I did the serviceable lithium ion battery. This is an 18 500 and I’ll explain why did in 18500 and we get further down the build with my magnetic setup and so again in a few years from now, when you need to swap out this lithium ion there’s just two back to back super powerful Neodymium magnets that are held in with these two copper pins for extra security. These will slide up out of the way and then this battery pops out of here.
It also has magnets on this side and then there’s huge soldering pads, underneath to where you can just saw her in a new positive, negative and off. You go again with a new lithium ion, but this battery should treat you well for a few years, at least so we get over here to the actual noggin electronic card covers, and this is something that I did on the laser cutter. I bought small sheets of anodized aluminum in like a gold, color and etched small circuits right into the anodized aluminum, and then, wherever there were some of the larger holes in the circuit, I drilled it out and kind of filed away to make it look like it’s Actual electronics that’s wrapping around the electronics card, then I have brass rods in here that hold all of this down: é, not going anywhere. It is in there secure and if you, if you need to re access the electronics for any reason down the road, you can slide these out one little piece at a time and then you can pull these out and pull this out and get full access to Any part of the card top or bottom by removing the battery or either one of these, so I’ve got a clear, acrylic disc, for a middle support. Rod – and this is all brass brass fittings down through here on the three structural rods that go up into the blade holder, and so this is your power switch here on and off there’s off, then you get a boot sound, you turn it on and then we’ve Got some laser etched aluminum pieces in here for more detail and then master stats? When I asked the question on the form, if he wanted the wiring the show or not show her be hidden, he said he want a combination of both which turned out to be a really good thing, because there’s 13 wires that are coming through this section of The saber right here that disappear through the holes and then come down through the backside of the crystal chamber, pass the fins and come down in here that feed power to the main crystal light.
And then the rotary LED bar graph. A lot of wires are to go into this right here to make this happen because it’s, I think it’s it’s, eight LEDs. Sim, that rotate around and do all kinds of different patterns, because the neon electronics card comes with eight accent, pads and what’s. Cool is in every font that you select. He has preset patterns that do different things: há, like Cylon lights, that go back and forth. You got random lights that are going all over the place: there’s a but there’s, just as many patterns almost as there are fonts stock right on the nikons car, which I love so um. This is the really unique and cool part about this saber that I love and I’m gon na hate to see it go cuz. This is the first time I’ve done something like this now I’ve done a lot of experimenting on these cards, both non electric labs with supplying permanent power to these. So this almost becomes like an appliance in your house. So the way this works is once again. I used my magnetic in 90 degree connector, and this has a really dim green, LED light in it and what you’re gon na do is you can see the USB magnetic connector in there to this on camera and you’re gon na feed it down in there and Then the magnetic part of it will automatically grab this and then you’ll see an orange light.
Come on that orange light is telling you that it’s currently charging the battery and then, when it’s, fully charged. That light will turn blue what’s really cool about this setup. Is that you can set this saver down in the chassis or or do we just with a chassis or in the hilt in display mode like this and so master stats? You can leave it alone, like this forever, all the time you can either have like the front half of of the hill on, and then it will be in reveal mode like this, so you’ll still be able to get to your power switch and the recharge port. Um, so you can have it, you know like this and then the back half on which makes it you know crazy, loud we’re, gon na just slide this up like that and so let’s start getting into the remote control part of this now I kind of got To go into a little bit detail about the charging part of it, because what I’ve discovered is that you can have a USB charger plugged in and whatever mode the sabres in again, if the power is off it doesn’t matter, if the power is on it, doesn’t Matter if you fire the saber up with this charger plugged in that’s, fine too a little bit word word of caution. The LEDs do heat up like all savers in the LED heatsink, and so just as a word of caution, I mean I would keep your runtimes.
What because it’s on display and you’re not really swinging around anything? I keep your runtimes under about 30 Minutos. This will make your LEDs last longer, and the charge circuit has a tendency to get warm also because this is a one amp charge circuit. So when you turn these lights on, it is fighting to get power back into this battery, to keep it charged up and it’s running a full amp recharge, so the little amp circuit in there it gets pretty warm as well, not a jane danger or anything but It’Ll last longer, if you keep your saver sessions between twenty and thirty minutes, that’s kind of the gist of it that’s sort of the nature of the setup. So here we go here. Let’S let’s get this in camera, so you guys can see what I’m doing on the button. So let’s slide this back a little bit so it’s more in picture there we go so a controls. Your main right here B is your ox. So here we go lots of Blinky’s as they’d like to say and there’s a white LED in here in the front side that is near to one of the boil LEDs in the emitter and then there’s another LED that’s joined with add one on your rotating LED. So auxilary zombie and then we get a second pause and then a hold down B and there’s a blade blaster. Como você pode ver, everything mirrors in the crystal chamber, everything there is up here and then shut down now to change fonts again you’re gon na.
Do it the same way you do it with just this slide switch here, the slide tap switch. You can hit B and then hit it again before the phrase ends now you’re on kwantzu and fire it up and then turn on. OKEY, so that’s how you get through all your fonts now, if you want to play music here’s another really unique thing about this saber: do you want to play music? It has to be in the horizontal position just like this, and so, if you want to play music, you hit and hold down the B button, so it’s gon na go into all of the different trailers for the store, with movies, to advance the track. You’Re gon na get B advances then B now get out of music mode. You’Re gon na hit hold B and then it’s gon na go back to lightsaber mode, OKEY, so that’s how yeah that’s, how you kind of toggle between lightsaber mode and music mode. Now the other thing about this saber I want to set up for you, as I want you to be able to hear all of the sounds on here, including clashes and swings. So what you have to do – and you can leave it plugged in is what you would do is you can set it up like this inside the box or you can just leave it plugged in and stand it up vertically. The nikon electronics card has an option on the preferences where you can tell it to where you tella that if the card is facing towards the emitter or towards the pommel, so what I become stocked in the settings saying that it’s facing the pommel.
So I flipped that around in the settings and now it says that the card is facing towards the emitter which it’s really not. But we needed to fool it because when you set it up on end – and I put a little metal feed on the bottom of this, so that you can stand it up, and so what this does is now that it’s in the vertical position you can go Into the different menus and put it in demo mode, so the way you do that is you hit and hold B shape now we’re in saber apps now to roll through the different functions within saber apps you’re gon na continue to hit a until you get to Demo mode, so here we go oops. My bad let’s do that again: OKEY, now we’re back in saber mode, all right so erase that let’s do hold down, be okay and then hit B again to scroll through the menu. I know it’s confusing it does too much stuff right so before it ends the phrase color editor it’s, just like going through the fonts. You want to hit the button again before he stops talking so you’re gon na, say now, we’re in demo mode once it gets to demo mode. You click a and what its gon na do is play every single, sound that’s in the saber, the music, so you’re gon na hear everything your swings, your clashes, your blade lock up. So here we go it’ll boot up the first spot, and this starts demo mode.
You can just kick back and watch the saber do its thing: há, the blue for font, 1 and we’ll, just let it go through the first spot and I’ll show you how to get out of this menu and back into regular saber mode in the vertical position. Remember it’s got to be vertical and go into demo mode, so the state was doing all that our phone and gentlemen okay. So the picture on that just shut us down what we’ll do is hit and hold and see if I remember hit and hold B, OKEY – and it goes back into Sabre apps – then we’re gon na continue to hit B until now when it gets to igniter. That takes you back into igniter 3 mode and then you’re going to hit a and now you’re back in light saver mode, and you can manually control the entire saver with a and B main and ox. So that covers the two different positions: horizontal and vertical. Let’S lay this back down and actually let’s unplug the USB recharge, and then I want to kind of go over the rest of the Sabre, because I know we got interrupted talking about the the recharge function and all the things you do. So we get down to the crystal chamber. I went through all of my aqua, our crystals and pulled out like my favorite three and the one that fit the best was this one. This thing is pretty cool it’s got, Eu acho, close to five or six facets on the tip of it and so it’s a really complex.
Looking crystal did some copper fins did some aging in there, we’ve got copper radiator fins with copper, cooling, tubes and let’s, see we get in super close and then the other thing that was kind of cool is, if you see this sort of gear, with a light Shining through at the tip of the crystal I pulled that out and that actually fit in the hole right away for the top of the crystal, and so when I went to go flip it over. I was like I know: master staffs is talking about wanting the Roman numeral 10 or the X on everything and LUMMA. Bold, look at that. That was a pretty cool coincidence, so there you go. That was even a surprise for me. Bem, so let’s see we’ll give a 360 on the crystal chamber. There we go it’s, focusing and so found lots of brass pins. This is a metal spline gear that went in there to house the crystal, and then these are also the original Graflex pins. The sink pins from from the Romans working flash assembly, so I tried to recycle as many of your parts as I could in all over the chassis and there they are alright covers the crystal chamber. Then we get down into the speaker, module and then again, you’ve got eight LEDs that go down a rotating pattern down here and so in the questions sheet, I asked master steps if he wanted a chrome.
Looking dust cover on his speaker and I decided to go with a flat speaker on this – build because it’s a much higher pitch speaker and is able to pierce through some of the limited sound holes on the anewhopeee configuration and so there’s a 28 millimeter flat speaker In here – and it is in gold – and there is your X on the bottom – master stats – your Roman numeral number X and it is signed, master, maltase, Jedi, arms dealer and what I loved about this is. You can actually see this mirrored acrylic on the bottom and you can actually see through this speaker this. I don’t know how they did this, but this is a transparent gold. Diaphragm on this speaker, so let’s see when we fire it up. It’S gon na be stupid. Loud but let’s see we fired up the lights through the speaker. I did the Train Shh so that pretty much covers the chassis I’m gon na go ahead and pause.