My friend Curtis Landry runs black sheep customs, and so this piece of artwork came up for sale and I said I had to have it. I wanted to put it on the show. Give him a bit of exposure. I'M gon na put his Facebook link in the video description box below so you guys can check out some of his work and some of his upcoming cage builds. But you know I remember I've built or I've not built I've bought cages before I'd love to learn how to braise and get in there, and even folks, like David jr. and some of the other folks we've had on the show they're getting really really good. But Curtis has a certain type of style to his rig that I love really light really low down this one's actually for a wraith transmission plate on the bottom. You can see that you can pretty much put any kind of axle or build your RC around this. Now this might be a little bit on the advanced side for some people, some of the hobbyists that are out there that like to run ready to run vehicles and that's cool too. Even if you have a ready to run vehicle, and just for example, even though this is a custom Wraith, you can get rates that are RTR right, nice, lookin race. I do have a few videos of this one, and this is one of the ones I was thinking about converting this over.

Even though it's a beautiful red, the decals are awesome, but you know our C's are made to be changed and I don't mind doing that. So when I had the chance to get this and to do a show for you guys on upgrading, I thought I would do that and when I found out, I could get curse. Landry'S G made saw back that's what this body actually used to be and a cage built for the this modded bawd hands down. I was in so I picked it up. Cost me, you know quite a bit. Currencies are different, so I hate saying how much it is because, as the world changes, the value of currency always changes, but for kanae I paid about 300 bucks American you're, probably looking at about 220 at the time of this filming and around the world, you guys Can guess whatever it is in your own currencies but that's what I pay for a good piece of artwork so looking at this, I have actually check it out. Look at the headlights just the way he says he gets old bodies and builds those cages and gets his creativity and inspiration from those buds. Just like any good fabricator, hey you've got an idea in your head. You want to get it out to the world or you want to get it out and just let that creativity flow that's why most of us are in the RC hobby. All right first thing I have to do is break down the Wraiths that I am going to use as a sacrificial RC.

Yes, it is quite beautiful, but on the other hand I wouldn't mind to get rid of this Wraith cage it's very heavy on top, and it rolls a lot not saying this new one won't either. But change is good in my last build video series. People are asking me where I got these long bits. The answer is Dave's motors, calm online. So with the motor and transmission plate down I'm going to go ahead and remove the tires, it must be easier to work with these axles and bottom motor plate. If the tires are removed, one, this is a cross wrench it's, quite large. I can't remember which RC I got this with, but you can check for them on eBay, lots of people part out RCS to make money on ebay and ah and it's one of the places I actually go get parts that was my drill on the floor. Tyre number two: now I don't think I'm going to go with these rims and tires with this new cage. The chrome in red, just won't, go with the black you've already passed the Christmas season. Who knows? Maybe they will, but I do have a better tire choice. I think, but we'll see these are Vanquish axles that are on here same with all the links and everything else. Upgraded big bore, proline shocks. These are all things that are good to go and I probably will switch over to an MOA kit eventually, but I wouldn't mind just getting this cage, seeing how it operates, seeing how the role level is on it and if it can handle any speed wheel.

Speed is always essential for me when I'm trying to go out on the trail. The slow crawl is also appreciated as well see here last one. These are the axial ripsaw tires that actually came with the Wraith. They still may come with the Wraith. I just know that that's, the ones that these are and they're quite a very tall tire, which is good, but they can also have quite a bit of a roll to the bottom if you don't, have really good foams in them and these aren't memory foams. These are just the stock. You know run of the mill foam, so you got quite a bit of play in there. That'S no problem. I also like air filled tires, as some of the viewers of the show have seen before you can just basically get bead locks and you can buy them from G made. If you want your inside wheels to be air filled, they actually come with a small area to put a pump into and pump up the pressure or you can get just regular bead locks ones that can accept air and just put a little grommet in there. And you can fill up and pressurize your tire, which is quite helpful. Just removing the hex adapters and the pins got all four right up: okay, just removing the hex adapters and the pins using Mike our C Pitt map, which I got at Cowell RC comm it's magnetic, which is good because it keeps all the screws and everything in Place, which is very helpful, okay, next up, is going to be the suspension links.

Well, not the suspension links, but the actual suspension shocks themselves will get in there and unscrew those which bit. Is it perfect all right? So this is where I'm going to actually make a change. This is running the ballistic setup that's in here and it's cool. It runs well, it does really good. The problem is, is that it makes that damn irritating high pitched noise when I'm operating it, and I hate that in RC I I love a nice good machine and I'm. Not you know sliding any of the other electronics that are out there, but I don't want an irritating nails on a chalkboard squeal as I'm, trying to crawl along so I'm going to pull this system out. Keep it here at the shop. For you know somebody else that comes here that needs it they blow it in the water or whatever, and then they can just have this one. So being a Tekin man I'm going to swap this out for a better system but that's. The next move is for me just to remove these right out of the gate. Very nice screws are getting old part of the reason to switch this. Over anyway, the decal has been ripped up. Quite a bit still looks pretty good, though there we are carefully separating all the wires here, ensuring that we get everything out properly without wrecking anything, so other people can enjoy it at the future. See there we go easy removal, this brushless.

What are we looking at? It is a 13.5 crawler combo, very nice here's, a look at what I'm left with so the front steering assembly everything is complete. This is the bonus of buying a drop in cage. You can kind of take your existing RC and switch it over to something that you like or kind of beef it up. So those are MIP drive shafts. It is an aluminum skid plate on the bottom. The big bore shocks. The links are good to go and the steering setup is also good to go. The only disappointment I have apart from this long, unnecessary screw. I have right there is. I don't have a waterproof servo, oh yeah, I use them all up in my last quarter. Scale build so I've got some on order there, just in transit right now, so we're gon na have to keep that one, but let's go ahead and look at the new black sheep customs cage let's put it on okay, so I'm, just going in with some silicon Spray just to help the two metals come together, a little easier fashion. Yes here's, where it's going to get a little bit on the tedious side. For me trying to place these two together make sure it lines up there. We go that actually wasn't too bad. The silicon spray totally helps that was from cow RC as well. They have a lot of maintenance, stuff that's, where I got the pit mat and you know what that cage dropped right in there.

That was just that easy check it out. Okay, let's bring it in the chair washed. It down see what I got with these longer screws, but I'm s, okay, problem for mod number, one putting the cage on this aluminum plate, the aluminum plate actually has a lip on it right here. This lip to line up with these holes see I bet you. He used a plastic one and either it didn't come with it, where we just simply shaved it off. But that means I'm gon na have to cut this one off so time to go to the vise beautiful, very nice. Okay, now that the floor plate is in and secure I'm going to go ahead and mount up these shocks now I could use the original screws that it came with, but unfortunately the threads paint on my finger. The threads are too aggressive, so I'm going to go ahead and use a longer threaded screw and a lock nut on the other side, because this isn't a plastic cage, of course – and these screws were meant and intended for plastic, so I'm going to go ahead and Have to change up my plan a little bit but that's alright that's part of our seat, make sure to put the spacer on the inside not over. Tighten these perfect line it up, and it goes just put this last one in place long as I can get it threaded through that grommet come on sweet where's that little spacer gone right in front of me, so let's talk about these wheels for a second.

These are the older style, RC four wheel drive out croppers crawling tire. Look at the tread on that: hey pretty awesome, same 12, mil hex adapter on the inside that's. Why I want to do these ones up for sure? Do I have any grub screws in these? I don't think so looks like I'm going to have to do that off camera same with the electronics I've done, electronics on camera, so many times plenty of tutorials out there, so I can just putter along who knows. Maybe I will do it on camera. I don't know you guys can stay tuned if you are subscribed and then that way you won't miss let's go ahead and mount these tires up. Take this one first, making sure the tread pattern is the same, but it's going to be no matter. What one make sure to tighten this up before I move forward? Don'T want to lose the pins out of those hex adapters number to get that lock, nut on there flip it around put in the pin and the 12 mil and the tire tighten it up. A little bit of a Frankenstein truck I like that built from all different types of pieces yeah. So if I bolt it up like he's, cut it and modded it. If I bolt it up in the spots that he has set out and already these screw holes are in the cage, I think it'll look pretty awesome, this color of green really.

I haven't had one of these before and I really dig it. I think it looks good, so I'll try to have these panels in this truly is what a roller is. I know there's a lot of new people to the show all the time daily. In fact, so if you're new to the Hobby – and you keep hearing me say roller and you're, not sure of what I mean see this gear on the inside that's a better view here, get in there and have a good look at it. That is the spur gear. A lot of senior hobbyists already know this. This is actually where the pinion from the motor goes up against and actually turns the transmission for it to roll back and forth, but without a motor and ESC that's. Simply what this machine is. A roller so they're, my I shout out to Curtis Landry, yet at Black Sheep customs bro thanks a lot for letting me buy one of your pieces of artwork here, RC artwork I'm. Glad to have it I'm glad to show it off to the people that are out there yeah. I had to modify my bottom aluminum skid plate, but who cares man? This thing is going to get scratched up like crazy anyway. This is how easy it is to drop in a well built cage on a wraith or another type of vehicle, and now we've got a killer Rock bouncer, so I'm going to have to do some more work on it.

I don't know if I'll do it on camera off camera, but if you guys are subscribed, if you want to, let me know with the light clicks or comments below. If you want me to do that on camera, I can do that for you and make sure to get yourself some RC. Hopefully this is entertained you today and it's.