This is a tamiya kit, 10 scale that you have to assemble. This kit does not come assembled at all and it’s not ready to run as there are some accessories. You need to buy to make this kit fully functional, um very nice kit, though i was very impressed with the build quality and the accuracy of the body looks really nice. You have to paint the body comes in a clear, it’s, a clear shell. You can paint in any color, you want. I know the box when you do buy the tamiya uh, it shows it as a blue and that’s the color. I also chose and you’ll see why, in the later in the video, why i chose to use this color, but i do recommend using hobby paint specifically made for rcs, as it has a flexibility to it, which is nice in case you scratch. I mean in case you hit it against the wall and stuff and the the body flexes for any reason, the paint won’t crack so uh let’s get into the details of this build Music, huh. Okay, now let’s talk about some of the details on this body. Here now the body comes ready to mount, even though it’s not painted it does come ready to mount as it is already pre drilled with the holes for this type of mounting system now i’m, not a big fan of these clip style mounting systems. I have seen people they’ll use the like a magnetic type of mounting system because, as you can see, it’s already pre drilled with the holes as you can see, if you run it up closer, the body starts getting scratched up with the pins constantly rubbing against.
It see here i want to show you the details of the body very nicely detailed body, strong plastic, and now these rc bodies, these clear bodies, they’re meant to be painted from the inside and the kit, comes with masks. You can mask out the windows: pre pre, molded masks for the windows, so you tape those down you spray, the body color. Then you take off the masks and then you spray the windows. Whatever color you want, then you put on the decals all the way around and another on the on the kit there’s, it comes with a lot of decals. I didn’t really like all of the decals. I wanted to keep it simple. I i you know: didn’t really want the mustang up here so much, but it covered. There was like a gap here in the body. Uh looked kind of weird between the window and the body. Didn’T look normal, so i i chose to keep to put that on there, but other than that. I try to keep it as original as the 95 cobra looked and very satisfied with it. Now i do have a video showing how to paint an rc body and in that video i just use your krylon hardware style paint. You know spray paint, i got the nicer one, it was a fusion, it had the paint mixed in with the primer. I don’t really recommend using that. I was in the pinch and i needed something that day so that’s why i chose to use it, but i just don’t think it has the flexibility that you need in an rc style paint.
As you can see, i hit i hit a wall. Actually it was actually my son. He hit the wall not even going that fast, but, as you can see over here by underneath the headlight, this isn’t damaged from the outside this is damaged from the inside. As the paint isn’t flexible enough to sustain that kind of damage, so it chipped off from the inside and the body was prepped it’s, not a matter of prepping see you can see it in there. It wasn’t a matter of prepping it’s, just a matter of the type of paint you use, so i do recommend using the tamiya paint. Okay, now let’s get down to the nitty gritty down to the chassis and what it needs to truly run. Now the kit does not come with a radio. You’Ll have to provide your own radio, controller and receiver, and now these normally come as a combo. You can get the radio when you buy them brand new. You usually get the radio and receiver as a as a combo together open up this battery plugs in right here. So no radio, no receiver, no battery, and what really annoyed me the most was it does not come with a servo. Then this servo is what steers the wheels see that now. I really thought it should have came with the servo for the simple fact that you have to remove a lot in order to get the servo here. So if you complete the complete, build minusing all the parts to make it remote leak, controlled you’ll have to take some stuff apart in order to install a servo.
Now the receiver just tapes right on top of the servo, the battery can be plugged right in and obviously the remote’s going to be in your hand, so i really thought they should have included a servo. This servo that i installed in here is a really cheap. 15 dollar servo: it comes with all the adapters that you need to install pretty much any type of servo a cheap or an expensive one. It comes with all the adapters for that, so that was good. I did like that now. I want to talk about the motor i have the cover on, so you can’t really see it, but it’s a 540 motor it’s, a torque tuned motor. You can opt out for a different motor, a sport tuned motor, oh and you can go brushless now. The cool another cool thing here is that the esc that it comes in the kit is a brushless compatible esc. So you can use a brushless motor for higher performance and what you would do if you’re not going to use a brushless motor you don’t have to connect the extra wire you just connect. The two. A brushed motor only comes with the two two wires, so you would just follow the instructions and plug in the wires. Accordingly, keep the extra one unplugged. Unless you’re going to run brushless, you have the on and off switch on the bottom of the vehicle. You don’t have to take the body off to turn the car on and off, and i say that because i have some traxxas off road vehicles that you literally have to take the body off to turn the dang thing on.
So i did like this. You can switch it on and off without having to remove the body there’s, the on and off switch underneath. So let’s talk about the chassis now this is on the tamiya. Tt01 chassis type e i’m, not sure what the type e signifies for, but this is a four wheel. Drive chassis, all wheel, drive chassis, it comes with differentials and again, this is all something that you build. The differential would be in there for the rear and it would be there’s the front differential. Now the motor attaches to the rear differentials via a spur gear. The actual differential little gears on the inside are all metal. The the spur gear is plastic. You can, you can buy upgrades for that limited slip, actually like a slip differential. The front wheels don’t move when everything is in traction, there’s, a an axle connecting the rear to the front and the car’s got traction it’s going to power all four wheels: it’s, an independent, all wheel, independent suspension, uh the shocks are not liquid filled shocks. These are just plastic housings with a spring in the middle, so maybe effectively not really even having any shocks. It is pretty bouncy, as you can see, no liquid in those shocks at all, so pretty much spring. You can upgrade it while building it again to me. It has a parts list of all the upgrade pieces that you can do to it, which are optional.
The main upgrade that you would want to do is this kit only comes with plastic bearings. A lot of these bearings there’s about 20 bearings in here, and they are all plastic in the optional parts list that comes with the kit. That gives you the part number for the bearing kit. If you’re going to be running this a lot, if you’re going to be using it a lot and you’re going to be using high speeds, i do recommend getting the metal bearings now. As far the motor goes, i was going to look into a higher performance motor, possibly in a brushed format. There was really only one other one that that stuck out there was a sport tuned and then i think, a super sport tuned. But i looked at the specs and i saw other people running tests on them and there wasn’t a significant amount difference. So if you’re going to run this brushed motor or brushed setup, this motor is going to be just fine. It does average about 20 miles per hour. I tested it with a lightweight um 2s lipo battery. It does call for the battery that they want you to use. Is a nicad at a 7.2 volts, see that that’s what it calls for there. All 2s batteries are 7.4 volts lipo, so i popped that in there gave it a little extra juice and i did achieve about 20 miles per hour on average and i kept the battery lightweight on purpose.
I don’t run it that much it’s a small battery but you’re also using less weight. So that was the advantage of using this battery here it doesn’t plug in so you will have to buy an adapter. If you don’t, buy a tamiya battery or to me a compatible battery an aftermarket one or say then you’re going to have to use, get an adapter to plug it in or you can use the tamiya battery. But it is big, it is bulky and you won’t achieve the same speeds since it’s heavier and slightly less power. Now. One thing i didn’t like is that it comes with these post style mounts. I think this is going to be the this, and the servo were my two biggest annoyances on this kit. I don’t like how this was set up. You have to put a pin underneath the underneath the body, so when you slide the body on it, those pins are the basically the height that you would pick where the body would stop see as it has holes, see that so then you would put the pin In the respective hole, whether you want it lower to the wheel or higher up now, there’s, not really much legroom when it comes to this style, so there’s really really one hole that you can really use it’s, either too low or too high. As you can see, those holes are spaced pretty far apart, but with using this concept, this pin concept you’re gon na damage your body as it’s gon na scrape.
As you can see, i put a piece of tape in here, so the pin rubs against the tape. Instead of the paint, because if it rubs against that paint, it’s gon na effectively chisel that paint right off once you get the desired location of your pin, then you have the post is like this high. Then you have to cut the post and it really looks ugly. I think i think it really ruins the style so yeah. So i just didn’t like how the these stick out and you need them to stick out that much so you can achieve that hole there to be able to put the pin into see that now. I suppose you could shave it off a little bit more, but i just i just didn’t like how that looked, so they can work on the mounting of the body. That might be something that you can custom do i’m sure that’s, something that you can customize and and fix. Maybe before you paint it even make it look a little nicer work on the mounting. If you’re gon na buy a separate radio with receiver, a servo and a battery pack to make this uh tamiya kit run it’s gon na cost you a little bit of money, and it didn’t really make sense to me to do that. A decent radio is easy. You need a two channel radio. By the way these are going to cost you a nice one.
Anyways 100 bucks easy. You know a decent battery 30, a decent servo as well 30., so you’re looking at 160 dollars just to get this kit to run, which i’m not saying it’s, not worth it. It just seemed like a lot of money to me. What i ended up doing is. I bought a second rc that was ready to run. This is a ford truck it’s, a cr 12 ford truck from team associated. It comes with a the remote. This is the remote i’m using for the tamiya. It comes with the remote. It comes with the servo and it comes with the battery. I bought the kit, it was on sale. I believe i got it for like 100 and a half at 150., so it made more sense to me to buy an rc that has everything for a cheaper price that you would buy the accessories needed to make this run, because at the end of the day, Once you take out the servo, the battery and the remote and you install them into your tamiya, you still have two fully functional um rc’s that you can switch in between and you know i chose to go with the truck, because some days i feel like off. Roading and some days i feel like going fast so to me that just made a little bit more sense, i did it that way. You don’t have to doing it. This way you will get lower quality in general, like i told you that servo is fine, but it is like a 15 servo, so don’t expect anything crazy.
It comes with a smaller battery. You know, but again, lightweight radio is actually pretty decent. I i do actually like the radio, because it does have some customizations up here, for your trim. Your throttle trim. Your steering trim, you can set those you can even reverse them, so forward is backwards backwards. Forwards left is right, right is right. You know that kind of stuff, so it does actually come with a pretty decent radio and receiver. So to me, just that was worth it again battery and servo. Just to get you just to get this bad boy running, you know, plus you have a whole extra rc that you can. You can play with or you can you know, take apart and run any other time you want. So all right, let’s go get this thing fired up and running Applause. I just wanted to mention that this esc also has a braking feature, so you can use the reverse for braking. It all depends on how you set it up uh. The manual explains it all for you, Applause that’s, actually pretty good for drifting, because it’s an all wheel drive since it applies so much power. With that 3s battery. You can use it for drifting, no problem, um it’s really fast, so you probably have to take it somewhere to really experience and enjoy it Applause. I have a 98 cobra, as you can see here in the background that’s, why i chose to keep this car this color.