Oh did i actually crack that? No, i don’t think so. Something fell off. Camtech motorsport sponsors rc kicks Music hi. Welcome to rc kicks yes on today, we’re doing something a little bit different for rc kicks we’re, building a full on banger that has these really hard bodies so that when you drive it around, you can crash them into each other, and things like that now, if You haven’t heard of cam tech. You might recognize this from a previous episode. This is a camtech car that i bought myself and i’ve built up mainly to suit what i was looking for really, but you can put a banger body on this chassis, so uh camtech were kind enough to send me over this kit so that i could show You guys what it’s all about now. This is totally new for me, and one thing i was really surprised at is just how hard these bodies are. So cutting them out is going to be a bit of a challenge. So what we’re going to do is we’re going to open up the box, see what you get inside and then we’ll build it up, and then i will paint up some of the bodies now. Obviously, you’ll paint them up from the outside, so i could probably use car paint and some lacquer and stuff like that. I have got some decals as well, which are in the box that i have picked up, that i’ll be putting on them like bang a proper banger, decals i’ll put a picture up here.
What they look like um, so yeah it’s, going to be interesting, so let’s check out what you get in the box. So the first thing is: they have loads of different bottles. Bodies that you can choose from. This is a jag which is a s type jag. Then there’s an old granada body, but they do loads from beetles to all kinds of things. So you can pick and choose what you want. They even do long, limo ones and small little tiny ones, there’s loads of options for these bodies. Cutting it out, i think, is going to be a bit of a challenge and a bit new for me. But i’ve got a few ideas of how i’m going to deal with that. So right, let’s have a look and see what you get in the box. So here’s all the decals that i actually picked up um these didn’t come from kantec. These come from a guy on facebook. Um i’ll put a link below to his website if you’re looking for stickers, so he did some for rc kicks as well as he did. Some from cam tech as well he’s got uh quite a few at a range um ktek signs, his his name and i’ll put a link in the description, everything and a massive thanks to him, because he just sent these to me to stick on the car um. So it should be quite cool because you can paint it up and then put all these bangers style stickers on it.
So i look forward to that. So this one’s gon na be a bit of an interesting one for me and it should be a bit of a laugh right. Let’S have a look, so we got a manual then. What have we got in here? We’Ve got some like little numbers that go on the top that you fit them on. You stick your banger number on it. That’S pretty cool, got a couple of those and tires now. This kit has got quite a few bits and pieces in it, so you can obviously option a lot of these parts, and this is what camtech sells. So they sent me a few sets of different tyres, some really cool, chrome ones. Then you’ve got some other kit ties as well: we’ve got a silver. Can camtech motor we’ve got? What else have we got? We’Ve got a couple of uh futaba, uh s3003 standard size. Servos got two of those and a mechanical speed controller. So that’ll be cool that’s. Something very different for me: um and then what else we’ve got metal massive metal plate. So this is really designed for taking some abuse, uh cottage that is pretty thick uh and then what else we got we’ve got things we’ve seen before in my other one, which is like the back housing and i’ve got a rear, shaft servo saver uh a few Bits that i haven’t had be previously of some sort of bulkhead or something um i’m, not quite sure what that is, some turnbuckles, some arms and uh another upright so slightly different uprights for this kit and bearings comes with bearings as well.
So there’s bearings in the kit right i’ll cut to a montage. You can take a look at it all and then we’ll come back and we’ll build it shouldn’t. Take me very long should be pretty easy and looking forward to the bodies of what really interests me, because they’re so different and uh yeah i’ve got some car paints. So i’ll see if i can come up with some funky ideas to paint it after painting some polycarbonates from the inside. It makes a change to do one from the outside. I’Ll, probably end up picking up another kit, because i think these could be really good for someone. Who’S got younger kids. I didn’t realize just how bashy they were so um. It could be quite a nice way for someone who has got a youngster doesn’t really want to go down the road of picking up a kit like this, because they’re a bit more fragile but likes the idea of giving a a very simple rc car to youngsters. So they can bash them into each other and they’re quite easy to build. So i think that could be a potentially a good, a good thing for someone with younger children that you wouldn’t worry about these right anyway. That’S enough waffling let’s take a look at what you get in the box right while you’re watching that i laid out everything ready to start building. One thing i noticed: oh my god, look how thick the chassis plate is that’s.
The sort of thing you see on kevin tolbert’s channel when he’s jumping it on 6s, so yeah. This is built to take a bit of a pounding. I think, and also i’ve got a few options that i’ve been throwing here different types of tyres and wheels. You can pick and choose as well as all the bodies, so you can really personalize. This we’ve got some kind of cool old, retro hubcaps, as well as some um sort of more alloy wheel style. So you can pick and choose those i’m, not sure what which ones i use yet i’ll have to see another thing: we’ve got the mechanical speed controller, which is very different to what i’m used to with tamiya. You actually put the servo up inside and uh through the hole and then the top goes on there and then that’s what rotates now i’m guessing that what they do with this is because it’s more rugged, because this is going to take a hell of a beating That they went with this plus i’m guessing it’s, not quite as precise as having an electronic speed controller, so it makes it a little bit more of a challenge when you’re trying to bash and drive around the track and stuff like that, i will fit this in The car and just to try it and see if i’m, if i get on with it, i’ll leave it. If not maybe i’ll put an electronic speed controller in it.
I honestly don’t know it’s got a dean’s connector on the end of it so i’m. Guessing you can run uh 2s lipo through it that’d be cool um, so yeah that’ll be good, um other things you can do. You can pimp it a little bit if you want to put a uh diff in the back of it. Instead of a fixed axle. Um they do do an option. It’S a shoemaker option that you can do in a little car like this is it’s not going to be making much of a difference, it’s purely for a bit of fun and to pimp it out a little bit. I’Ve done it on my other one it’s, not that inexpensive option um. So there you go right. That’S enough, waffling let’s go and build the chassis Music Applause Music. Now you have to drill out the server saver to fit the ball. Joints, be careful if you’re doing this or if you prefer just change to a different servo saver. Music don’t forget to center your steering servo before you fit the servo mount and mount it in the car. If you don’t it’s, not the end of the world, it is possible to adjust it without having to remove it from the chassis, Music, Music, Music. So Music. Now i made a little mistake here: the tie rod is connecting to the upright and the ball joint is on the longest part of the arm, so the tie rod is tilting back slightly.
It should be on the inside point so that they sit straight across from the server saver to the uprights. As you can see, the tie rods are angling backwards slightly. This is incorrect. Music before you fit the motor cage to the chassis, make sure you put the nuts in position six and attach part nine. If you don’t you’ll, be taking the cage off to put the bolts back in, like i did: Music, Music, Music, so Music, Music Applause, Applause, Music, Music, hi, i Music Applause, Music – am Applause Music. As you can see, the kit goes together really easily and everything lines up, just as it should there’s no real fighting this kit at all, so top marks for precision Music after a couple of hours, work, it’s, all done nice and easy, and a real joy to Build Music and there you go, the little fella is done bit different to the other one that i built. Precision wise, no different whatsoever. Quality of parts is great. Everything goes in really easy. The only negatives is still i’d say the manual, but i know the guys over there are working on improving the manual just refining it. To give you a little bit more detail, there’s also, when you get the whole thing, there’s lots of little bits to it. You’Ve got the mechanical speed controller, whether you get the mechanical speed controller or not. I mean this is so. It fits in with the rules of racing for banger racing.
But if you’re going to be blasting this around out in the street or you’re going to give it to a younger person to bash around and things you’ll probably end up just sticking in a very standard electronic speed, controller and there’s plenty of room for it. So it’s super easy to fit this, so no difference that but i’ll do it as per the um racing rules. So we can see what that’s like first, because it’s a bit of fun and i’ve never played with a mechanical speed controller like that before um right. One other thing: the batteries now the kind of batteries that i’d like to see in it are these kind of things. The standard tamiya batteries. You know, you’ve got your two 2s lipo and then you’ve got your standard um 7.2. Now they they do fit into the chassis. No problems at all they would go in. The main issue is that there’s no way of actually mounting them so that they don’t slide out. So hopefully, what all you need is a set of little mounts to to go over from the chassis down. The chassis is actually perfectly wide enough um to take both so running. That on 2s would be super fun um, so it just needs some mounts, but that’s easily done with this top plate. You could just have another hole, there another hole there and then just a bracket, so i don’t know whether they’ll do that or not.
But what i’ll probably do is just use a bit of tape for now put a bit of tape around there just so i can actually drive it on 2s and just to see how fast it goes. Um, no issues building it all goes together. Super smooth um. I went with the standard motor um that was in the kit just so we can see what it’s like as stock the other one that’s got a sports tune, motor in it, but we’ll go completely stock to start with and then whether i’ll change it out for Something a little bit hotter or not. I honestly don’t know i’m guessing that’s a standard silver can, but i just don’t know right: i’ll fire it up, for you it’s a little bit lively with the mechanical speed controller. So what i’m going to do? I use these other because for some reason it uh it decides it wants off the second i plug it in and then it settles down uh for some reason, which is a bit strange. So here we go there, you go it’s all it’s, very uh. The mechanical speed controller is very on or off you’ve got on and on there’s no let’s just go and go and you get two speeds, but it was really easy to fear and it was to calibrate that was pretty straightforward, stuff. So it’s very simple works really. Well, so there you go so we’ll, take it out for a spin as soon as we can what’s.
Next now, we’ve got to build the body. Now i’ve decided i’m going to go with the jag, so that’s next, what we’re gon na do is trim it out. I’M, not sure whether i will cut the windows out or paint them black. I honestly don’t know um i’m, not sure i’ll think about it, but what’s. First right we got to cut it out first, i guess and then mount the holes and stuff like that right.