So today, we’re gon na go over my year end thoughts on my drag build um. If you watched my last few videos on this car, you would have seen my initial build video uh, where i went around the whole build, and i explained everything that i put into the car and also the video. After that, you would have seen some test hits and my my first impression of the build. Now, since then, there has been some changes, um and i just want to go over those changes and how they affected the cars performance and how that led to me winning the king of the streets in in our region. You can also watch that video i’ll send a link down below for that tournament, and you can watch the full thing so let’s dive right in Music. Thank you. The first thing that we’ll talk about is the controller. This was the first thing that i swapped out. Um i was using the fly sky fs gt5. Now that is probably my favorite remote for the money. I actually like it better than this it’s. A lot easier to use. It’S got a lot of features that these high end remotes offer at literally a fraction of the cost, so that is my go to, but i was having reception issues in the lot that we normally run in now. I switched this remote in hopes that i would fix that problem, but unfortunately, i’m still stuck with the same reception issue.
Thankfully, i’m, having the problems past the 132 foot line, so it’s, not that big of a deal, but it is a little bit sketchy when you’re trying to hit the brakes after the line and the car is not responding. So i mean it is what it is. The only controllers that that i’ve seen that are not having an issue there are the tqi traxxas remotes and the futaba’s but i’m, not gon na go out and swap everything again. The car is working the way it is so it’s gon na stay like that. Now that we got that out of the way, i i guess the biggest thing that’s going to catch your eye from my last video to this video, this is probably the biggest change that you’re going to notice. Uh that’s, the wheelie bar. So this, unfortunately, with the interg transmission case, options for wheelie bars are limited, so i had to kind of go through a couple of prototypes before i ended up with this it’s been working well, it’s, very basic it’s, just a flat piece of aluminum that i drilled Into the chassis in the back here and then i also drilled a couple of holes there to mount this aluminum block to the block. I mounted some links that i had from a crawler and this link is mounted to the transmission housing. This link actually serves a couple of purposes: one obviously it’s it’s mounting the top section of the the wheelie bar to the transmission housing, but it’s also used to adjust the wheelie bar height uh.
It works very well there’s, no pre drilled notches. So it’s, not oh. This notch is too low. This notch is too high. You can get to the millimeter of adjustment with this, which is why i love it. It’S been working really well it’s a little bit of an oddball of a setup, because this is not it’s, not secured 100. So up and down she doesn’t move at all, but it’s got a lot of roll side to side. I actually think this is helping me because in case the car does want to take off on an angle the wheels still stay planted. So this is obviously an exaggeration you’re, never going to lift these back wheels off the ground on the launch, but it’s just to show you that this kind of adapts to the road, depending on which way the car is angled on the launch. So i actually think this is working very well i’m going to leave this the way it is because it’s worked all season so that’s that so the next thing that we changed on this setup um or not changed but added, i did add a cat pack. I was getting a little bit of uh excessive ripple. I was at the limit, so i decided to build a cat pack. For this thing, i integrated a voltage gauge to the cat pack just to keep an eye on the battery, because i did lower the voltage shut off on the esc, just to avoid any uh rendered performance due to battery voltage dipping too low.
So it helped didn’t solve the problem 100, but it is working. The next thing that wasn’t in on the car in my last video is this flex and plate over here with the wheel weights mounted uh. You would have heard me explaining how i wanted to do this. It just wasn’t installed at the time, so i did exactly what i wanted. I pre drilled the holes in the bumper and i mounted this lexan plate so that i had something flat to mount these wheel weights on. So i i tested a lot with more weight with less weight, it’s, actually helping with stability, uh it’s. Helping keep the front end down, which is important, because once you have that front end up in the air, you lose all your steering, which is not fun. So i know a lot of guys are against adding weight, but this vehicle wasn’t built with weight savings in mind. You would have seen this in the last video as well. Everything is aluminum on this thing, so it is heavy compared to a normal slash. It is a heavy, it is a heavy car, especially with all this aluminum in the back. So i actually think the weight is helping with stability. I think it’s keeping it planted it’s a lot harder for it to take flight, so we’re going to continue going with this car exactly the way it is um. I do have another build coming up for next season.
You guys are going to see that build. Also that’s going to be the complete opposite of this it’s, going to be super light and a lot of carbon fiber, so stay tuned for that that’s coming up shortly. The last minor thing that has been changed is the servo horn. Here i got rid of the servo saver because i was getting a little bit of memory steer as soon as i got rid of that. I just went to a straight circle. Horn completely solved all those issues so as far as parts being replaced or added that’s that’s it from the initial video. So i guess the biggest question is: is how do we build a car that is at the competitive level? I’Ll say this: you don’t have to go deep into your pockets and buy the most expensive stuff and throw all the expensive stuff at the car. It doesn’t even have to be the fastest car out there. The key that i’ve learned is consistency once you’ve achieved that i think you’re having a lot better time. Winning races and you’re gon na be a lot more confident going in there at the line before you pull that trigger. You know that car is gon na go straight and that’s what’s important when it comes to winning races, um what’s involved in that really it doesn’t cost any money it’s just time time and and experience so you’re going to have to mess around a lot.
But the biggest things there’s three big things: there’s there’s suspension, tuning there’s alignment and there’s esc tuning there’s, so many different ways that people like to set their cars up belted tires non belted tires: 2 pole motors 4 pole motors different esc’s different brands, that’s all up To your preference, this has been working well for me, it’s and and it’s it’s, a very basic setup, like i said, it’s just off the shelf castle setup. So once you’ve got your car dialed, then you can start adding the power. So if you guys have problems setting up your car, if you’re wondering why it’s hooking left or hooking right every time – and you can never get it to go straight – there’s – always something that you can adjust that’ll help that um. If you want throw me a message, i can try to help you all as much as i can, but those are the three things that you want to look for and that’s what i spent most of the time on this season. Dialing, in is those three things now as far as changes for next year. Everything on this car is going to stay the same um but the esc. I spoke to a rep at castle. I was having some issues with the with the car. I can’t add all the timing that that it has available in the castle link. So what i was experiencing was bogging once a car caught, some traction, it would bog and i’d use uh power for a short second.
Then it picked back up. So what i found was when i did a data log. The voltage was actually dipping below the low voltage cutoff line, which in turn it was pulling power out of the car to avoid damaging the esc and then once it picked back up, then it would give you full jam again. Obviously, that’s hurting the performance of the car um, so these speed controllers are only rated for 90 apps i’m, surpassing that by a mile. So it is time for an upgrade i’m gon na go with something bigger i’m gon na probably stick with castle because i’m comfortable with their system. I, like their tuning software. I, like their data logging that’s what i became comfortable with so i’m, going to stick with what i know: teach their own right so i’m, just going to put a bigger esc in for next year and and we’ll see how it goes. I’M, hoping i can get another 10th or two i’m gon na keep this 5700 censored motor in there it’s been doing well, but other than that i’m super happy with the way the car turned out all right, guys that pretty much wraps this video up. It was a good season. For me it was a good season for the bso crew, which is our home crew. The bolton street outlaws stay tuned because another build video coming up for the 2021 drag season. Music, so you’ll catch that in a video shortly, if there’s, something else that i didn’t cover or there’s.
Another topic that you would like me to cover just drop me, a message in the comments below and i’ll try my best to get those topics covered for you once again guys, thanks for watching don’t, forget to hit that like button subscribe.