It is today, and if you haven’t been watching, then i would definitely recommend checking out some of those other videos to get caught up. So in today’s, video i’ve got two more upgrades to put on this thing, to make it even faster i’m going to be replacing the stock bushings with a set of ball bearings, to make the car faster and to get rid of the wheel, wobble and i’m. Also going to be putting on a new battery tray, which is custom designed for me by cam, drive rc once we’ve done. That we’re also going to take this thing out and give it its first test on the 3s life and see how fast we can get it to go enjoy. So for the past few videos. With this thing, my goal has been to try and get it to be able to run this 3s lipo right here and in the last video we got super close to doing that. In fact, there was just one more issue that was holding us back, so that issue was the wheel. Wobble like just have a look in here. You can see that wheel is able to wiggle around a ton, and so is this one. Now i talked about this in my last video, but basically what that does is it creates tons of excess drag on the car and it also makes an uneven load, which is really bad for everything. So i didn’t want to run it on 3s, because i was worried that it would break something so the reason the wheels wobble right now is because they have bushings instead of bearings and those bushings are starting to get super worn down so to fix it.
I’Ve got these bearings right here. See things are brand new and they’re, not worn down so they’ll fit nice and snug, and they won’t wobble around a bunch plus since they’re bearings they’ll be able to spin a lot more smoothly than the bushings. Even when they’re worn down so with these things on, we should be able to run the 3s lipo because it won’t have the wheel. Wobble and the car should just go faster in general because it won’t have the bushings creating excess drag, so let’s put them on. So putting these on is fairly simple step. One is just to take off. The wheel sometimes does need a little bit of persuasion to get off, though there you go all right, so the wheel comes off it’s a pretty tight fit right here, so it doesn’t always want to come off. So your next step is going to be taking off this screw here and this screw here or on the back there’s. Just this one screw right there all right, so you should have it like this sort of hanging off. So then the next step is going to be get a flathead screwdriver, stick it under this hex and then pry it off all right. So once you have that off, you can see, got this little axle sticking out through the bushings and you can see there’s a fairly large gap between the bushings and the axles, so that’s. Why it’s able to wiggle around so much so next? You just want to slide it out backwards like that, and then you just get a tool in there and push the bushings out much fiddling later.
All right that was really difficult. These things are just so small and fiddly, and i am definitely not excited to have to do that three more times but anyway, once you got that out, then you can just put in the bearings, so they go in same spot as a bushing just put one In there push it in take another one in there, nice, oh wow, that was a very loud click. No wonder that other one was so hard to get out so then you just have to do the other steps in reverse. Now. For me, this little bit popped off while i was doing it, but the good news is that just pops right back on there, just some squeezing then i’ll take this little thing slide it on back through. Take the hex. Stick it back onto there all right. So then you just stick it back on here and make sure that little drive shaft goes back in this can be a little bit fiddly, and then you screw those two screws back in on the top and one on the bottom. Then you can stick your wheel back on and then just screw it back in all right. So we’ve got one of the wheels done, so i will do the rest of them off. Camera and i’ll see you all in a minute all right. So we got our bearings in, and these make a huge difference like even just feeling it with my hands right now is just so much smoother and check this out.
Look how long that spins for that’s insane so i’ll show a comparison on the screen right now of this, with the bearings versus before with the bushings, so you can see just how much of a difference. This is because it’s pretty ridiculous. As for the wheel, wobble look it’s pretty much gone. The wheels do still wiggle a bit, but if you look, you can see that’s just them. Moving with the steering they’re not moving independently, so it’s completely normal and not a problem, hey guys. I knew that the bearings would make a difference, but i really did not think it would be anything like this like for sure this is definitely a must have upgrade for the sandy lane and i really wish i’d done it sooner. So our next upgrade is actually a special one because it was sent in by one of you guys who watches these videos. This upgrade is a new battery hold down at the moment. We’Ve got this velcro battery hold down, which works pretty well, but it does have some issues, so you can see when the battery is in. It is held right over that servo horn, so the servo has to push into it, which is not good for it. Also, the battery hangs sort of over the side, so it’s more vulnerable to getting hit by stuff, and also it makes a shell bulge, so cam drive rc has sent in the 3d printable file for this thing right here, and this is a new battery tray.
So what it’ll let us do is it’ll. Let it stick in the battery vertically like this and then stick it in there. So when the battery’s in vertically it won’t block the servo and it also won’t, hang over the side plus it’ll, look a lot cleaner when it’s in this tray. Also, the tray says cheeseburger rc, which is super awesome, so huge shout out and huge. Thank you to camdra rc for designing this thing. There will be some links to him in the description if you want to check out his channel and also, if you want to download this thing so with that let’s put it on all right, so we got the new battery tray and it looks really good. So, as you can see, we’ve got these two elastic bands in here to let us hold the batteries. So these bands are tight enough that we can fit in the 2s lipo and it won’t shake around too much but they’re also elastic. So they will stretch out to fit the 3s one. Now the batteries are still held over the servo horn, but now they’re high enough that it doesn’t run into them so we’re good there. Now this battery tray does still hang over the side a little bit and unfortunately there’s nothing. We can do about that because it has to be wide enough to fit the 3s lipo, but this is still better than the velcro, because now the battery has a layer of plastic protecting it.
So it’s, not just a bare battery hanging over the side. So again, huge thank you and a huge shout out to cam driver receiver, designing this thing for me all right, so we got all our upgrades on and we’re just about ready to take this thing out and give it a test. So here it is with the 2s lipo whoa wait. Wait guys check that out check that out. Look the wheels are actually expanding on to us that’s, pretty crazy. All right, let’s try out the 3s look at that. That has got some power now so for our first one, with this thing, i’m going to be running it on the 2s, just to make sure that i’ve installed everything correctly and then once we know that it works we’ll put in the 3s and see how fast We can really get this to go Applause, please! Oh all! Right! 3S, oh wow, wow, jeez Applause thanks! Oh that’s, not good, all right! So there it is our first test of the 3s lipo with the sandy land, and that was a bit ridiculous. I mean, as you can see there pretty much every time we got above half throttle the sandy land just peeled out and completely lost control. Now, fortunately, we did manage to get a few. Decent speed runs out of it and when we did, it was just ridiculously fast now you did see at the end, how it sort of took off and just flung the battery out, and unfortunately, it took the tray out with it, and it also knocked this wire Out of our connector, so we’re gon na need to re solder that we’re gon na need to stick this tray back in before we can use it again.
But for sure, if you’re going for speed with your sandy land, then a set of bearings and a 3s lifo should do the trick. So now that we’ve seen how fast this thing is able to go on the 3s lipo, there are a few more upgrades. I think we’re going to need mainly we need a receiver with a gyro, so basically, what a gyro does is it keeps the wheels facing forward. So when the car starts to slip, it’s able to recover it doesn’t just completely peel out and lose control. Most nice radio systems come with those now, so i think that’s definitely something we should do also. I want to do some durability, upgrades i’m thinking, i’ll put on some more metal parts and possibly even a roll cage. In addition to that, i also want to take this thing out and drive it around for some fun, because it’s just amazing to see how fast it goes on 3s lipo, so stay tuned for that subscribe, so you don’t, miss it and i’ll, see you all then, And don’t worry, i will try and get the sandyland fixed as soon as possible.