I want to give you guys my thoughts on this. I want this to be a faster video. If you guys want more details, i have at least five to seven videos about the drz going in depth about this. I also have a review out on the xrx and i have a full build video of this. I built the whole thing on camera. So if you guys have any questions – or you want a little bit more detail, refer back to those videos, i want this to be a little bit quicker for people who are just kind of you know really wetting their feet with the rear. Wheel drive drift community and you know just trying to get a little bit of research information before we start talking about these chassis. I want to give a couple honorable mentions number one is the mj modify by my name? Is mj so it’s a k989 rear wheel, drive drift conversion kit for those cars and uh. They look like a really really nice kit and the cool thing, and the reason why i want to mention this is because mj will build it for you. If you are brand new to rear wheel, drive drifting and you don’t have the skills to build a car at all, or it just seems too daunting. Mj can do it for you, i’m, pretty sure he can send you a ready to run chassis as far as what i know – i’m, not 100 sure on that.
But at least it’ll be nearly complete, it’ll be fully assembled and you just need to throw a receiver on it and you should be good to go from there. So so the mj modify is the chassis i want to shout out and also the drift art version. 2 is a beautiful chassis, carbon fiber, it looks fantastic, but the thing with the drift art chassis is they seem like they’re, a really complex, build number one and number two. It seems like the setups, for them seems a little bit more complex, too i’m gon na go ahead and say that’s more of an intermediate level build or an expert level build just because of the fact that the drift art is a belt driven chassis and the Adjustment settings for it seems like they slide around a little bit, so it just to me seems like it’s, a more advanced chassis and then. Finally, i want to also give a shout out to the gld, the gl racing drift chassis, it’s very similar to the xrx. So i’m going to go ahead and say: the xrx is the better chassis because all the aluminum and ease of build the fact. A lot of these parts are pre assembled for you, so i’m going to say the xrx and gld are very comparable, but the xrx edges it out slightly. So now that i have that out of the way. I also want to preface this by saying that all drift chassis are roughly equivalent as far as rear wheel drive chassis as far as this chassis and this one or if there was an mj modify or if there was a super skeeter out here or a bmrx.
It doesn’t matter what it is guys they’re, all very, very comparable. The thing is: is you need to spend the time tuning your suspension tuning? All of your settings, your camber, your tow, your motors, your tire compounds. All that kind of stuff is critical for real world drive drift setups. Also your gyro having dual epa settings. All that stuff is really really critical and if you have all that dialed in um, like once, i get this chassis fully built it’s, going to be roughly equivalent to my drz so i’m going to go ahead and say that it’s, not necessarily that one chassis is Going to be better than the other it’s just they’re going to have slight differences in between them and things to note so starting off in the front. I want to talk about the xrx’s steering package, so this has an aluminum steering rack. You can see it in there and it’s sliding on bulb bearings. So this is a super, solid steering system and honestly i’m going to say that it’s a little bit more stable than the drz. So the drz has this post system in here and then you have a bell crank and the fact that your sliding rack over here is sandwiched between bearings it’s, literally there’s, a bearing in the front and then two in the back and it’s, crushing it in between. Not crushing, but you know what i mean, making it so there’s, no wobble, so theoretically, i’m gon na say that this front end is a little bit better.
Just because of the fact that you know it’s not going to wobble as much but saying that the drz has a very, very good system up here. There’S still ball bearings in this steering system, but the thing is: is uh. Maybe if you’re going over hard cracks or really uneven surfaces, it might introduce a little bit more wobble because of the fact you know it’s an upright post. So that might be an issue, but you know i drift on super flat, smooth surfaces, so that’s never an issue for me, but i just wanted to go ahead and mention that another thing to note with these front ends is both of these. Have these steering stoppers, so these are steering angle limiters and what that does. Is these actually catch on the arm right there, and what that will do is keep your front end from going past its limit, so it’s it’s awesome that both of these chassis have this. This is something that you definitely want on a drift chassis. Is these steering angle limiters, and so they both have that so that’s not really a consideration between them, but i just want to mention that they do have them. Moving on. Both chassis have mono shocks up front. These monoshocks are great they’re, just slightly different styles. This is made by a crawler company. Apparently, and this is actually atomics monoshock over here. They both perform roughly equivalent. I mean there’s, nothing to really say bad about them and thing to note about monoshocks.
Is they do allow more steering angle because, as you guys can see, it can get in there and these posts are further away from your wheels? Whereas if you have actual strut styles, they do have issues depending on your wheel, offset with catching on the posts. So i highly recommend going for a monoshock whether you have the xrx or the drz. Another thing i want to note real quick up in the front ends is the xrx actually has a wide front end and you can’t get around that without modifying your parts. So i actually have both of my front ends over here it’s hard to tell but they’re pretty much the same width. So what i did is over here. This one is a 1.5 millimeter offset tire, and these over here are zero. Millimeter offset tires and as you guys can see, i went in and i i sanded all my linkages down to make it so that this can clear now and look. It rolls perfectly smooth. But what this means is i’m going to be able to use this on. A narrow body so playing with your wheel, offsets and you know making note of your linkages if anything’s, rubbing or anything like that, that’s one way of making this front end smaller. So it does come wide stock. So keep that in mind, but you can easily adjust it by just sanding your linkages or removing some material from this plastic part of the linkage and then just literally just screwing it in further same thing for the bottom.
You can just move this whole wheel in, but you know i went the easier route of just changing my wheel, offset and then going ahead and sanding. My linkage down. Another thing to note is the motors. So, as you guys can see, these are both running atomic motors. They have the exact same setups in them, but the thing that sets the xrx aside is the fact that this has the lower motor mount, but you can go ahead and reverse this motor mount flip. It up top and then you have a high center gravity, high motor mount and i think that’s really cool and that’s. The whole reason why i got this chassis, but when you do set it up for that high motor mount note that you will need to use a smaller size motor. You need to use the 15 millimeter, can size motors or get a larger pinion gear. But i don’t have larger pinion gear and i have a large can motor, so i have to use it in the lower mount setting, but eventually i’ll get a high motor mount for it and that will be really cool so over here on the drz. This does not have that option at all. You cannot put a high motor mount on it, but you know it doesn’t really necessarily need it. I just think it’s pretty cool it’s a little bit. You know i don’t know if it’s a gimmick but either way.
I think they’re really cool having those high motor mounts. Last thing i want to note for these rear ends is both rear ends, will come with this stock style, normal standard rear end with collars they’re, both really good suspensions. I, like the xrx suspension, but over here i do have a mono shock on here, because monoshocks, if you have dual monoshocks, what it will do is allow your body to basically pitch and roll a little bit easier right, that’s great. But my issue is this spring it’s not strong enough to actually lift my rear end back up. Sadly, so i need to get a stronger spring back here, but basically i just want to say that both of these chassis, whether it’s the drz or the xrx, will come with this style rear end, which is a great style rear end and they both have collars. So you can adjust your preload to adjust your tension settings and then you can also always go ahead and get mono shocks for it. So if you see a chassis with a really cool suspension system on it, don’t freak out because you can switch suspension systems around you know what i mean so that’s, not as big of a consideration. So, overall, i think these are great chassis but, as you guys can see, i’m a little bit partial to the drz, i love the gold. I have my second drz sitting back here, waiting for me to build it.
I just need the parts to come in and then i can so i just wanted to quickly go over some of the big points to mention for these chassis, like i said once: you’ve dialed them in they’re roughly equivalent, but you have to put in that time And the thing with the xrx is you get a lot of parts pre built on this chassis? So you don’t have to worry about all those headaches, so that’s kind of huge, whereas the drz you do need to build it from scratch. None of the parts will be pre assembled for you. You have to assemble your differential and smooth out any burrs in there make sure it’s completely sanded smooth check for any miss molds injection lines like around this motor back here. There was a big molding lines that i had to take off little things like that. So it’s just points to note that, basically, this chassis will take a lot more attention to detail but saying that it’s a bit more rewarding once you’ve built it. You know if you like, building model kits and stuff, which i do uh. You will love building the drz because there’s a lot to do to it, it’s a lot of fun and it takes hours and hours to build, whereas this one over here, if you buy the upgrade parts like i have on this one with the differential and your Front sliding sliding rack and all that kind of stuff on there, then it’s going to be pre assembled and you just basically slap it together like a lego, and it literally took me an hour to build this on camera.
I probably could have built this in 30 minutes if i was just sitting by myself. So the level of difficulty for the builds is this is a beginner level build, and this is more of an intermediate to beginner level build. But you know just requires more attention to detail, but honestly drz is my favorite, so i’m gon na go ahead and say the drz is the better chassis just because i like mine, more i’ve had more fun with it. But you know this: xrx is gon na be sweet. I just need to do a little bit more tuning and it’ll, be there eventually so i’m gon na go ahead and end the video right here. I don’t want to keep rambling. I have in depth videos on the xrx and the drz, if you guys need more information or if you guys have questions, leave them down in the comments below. But you know, like i said: drz is my favorite, but the xrx you can’t go wrong with it. You can’t go wrong with a bmrx or a trc or mj modify none of those chassis. You can go wrong with they’re all outstanding chassis. You just got to put the work into it. So anyways guys hope you enjoyed this video hope.