0 triggy now taking shape it’s time to finish up on the chassis, with its various mounting brackets for electronics. Although before we do that, we need to get through our next two kit, bags, l and m front and rear shock assembly bag. L contains the front shock kit lots of small parts in this, so take care to empty its contents before making sure nothing is left behind in the bag. The shock bodies and shafts are expertly produced and we have some nice aluminum shock. Caps too, you’ll need some thread lock, as well as some o ring grease for this bag. Deci, with those to hand, let’s get started with the main shock body in hand place. The black rubber o ring around the top threads making sure it seats nicely down into the groove. Next we can reach for our delrin pieces as well as the shock o rings before. Inserting these i like to place a dab of o ring grease around the inside. Here, after which the small hatch washer goes in with the hat facing upwards, then we want to apply some grease to an o ring before inserting it on top followed by the center washer, another greased o ring. And finally, the larger hatch washer, with the hat facing downwards, i like to apply a small amount of thread lock to the threads here. Only a very small amount too much and you won’t get it back off before screwing the cap down just so it’s snug holding everything in place don’t over tighten just yet as we want to get the shock shaft through.
First, talking of the shock shaft, we need to attach our shock piston, so grip. The shock shaft with your shock tool and drop. The piston into position, then lock into place with a zinc, lock, nut don’t over tighten here. The piston is plastic and you don’t want to crack squash or expand it before inserting into the shock body, apply some grease to the threads to prevent it from tearing the o rings before pushing through the body and then wipe off any excess grease once through with The shaft through we can now tighten up the shock cartridge. The shock tool comes to the rescue yet again making sure the shock shaft is nice and smooth. We can drop on a shock. Boot don’t try to stretch it over the rod end afterwards and then grip with the shock tool again and proceed to install the rod end. You want to make sure the rod ends on all four shocks. Go on the same amount. You don’t want different size shocks because the rod ends have been screwed on different levels, so take it all the way before popping a pivot ball through the rod end and making sure the ball moves freely. If it doesn’t, you need to back the rod end off a little. În cele din urmă, we can install the shock collar again apply some grease to the collar and it’ll go on much easier pop in an o ring into the groove and go ahead and screw it onto the shock body with one shot complete.
We need to go ahead and create the second front shock too so o ring on shock body hat washer, greased o ring washer, another greased o ring final hat washer and the top cap. Then we drop the piston into the shock shaft and tighten with the lock nut grease the end and insert into the body drop on a boot. Secure the rod end popping a pivot ball into place before attaching the shock collar with its o ring in place with that done, we’re ready to fill the shocks with oil. These are the front shocks, so we’ll need the 700 cst bottle handy okay. So we go ahead and proceed to fill the shock with oil. I like to go halfway and then move the shock shaft up and down a little to get rid of any air trapped beneath taking care not to push the piston above the oil fill level. Then go ahead and fill the remainder of the shock body to the top, after which we pump the shock shaft from bottom to top around five times. At this point, i place the shock to one side being careful to support it upwards on something. If you haven’t a shock, stand and proceed to complete the same process on this second shock, so fill with oil and pump the shock shaft a few times. It takes time for the air bubbles to rise to the top due to the thickness of the oil. So at this point, i’m going to leave these shocks to sit for a few minutes, while i’ll go ahead and prepare the caps, and all that needs doing here is to insert a rubber bladder into the far end of the cap, after which we can install the Tiny o ring onto the bleed screw the best way i’ve found to do this is to coat the o ring with a drop of shock oil to help prevent a tear place it on a paper towel or on your finger and then push the bleed screw onto It before pushing the o ring to the top of the screw with that done back to our shocks now, which have had time for most bubbles to rise to the top.
Deci, with a couple of drops of oil in the cap, push the shock shaft up around half way to set a base rebound before screwing the cap onto the shock body by hand about halfway taking care not to cross thread the caps before tightening down. You will have some oil leak out of the bleed hole, which is what we want. If no oil leaks through, then the shock needs more oil inside you’ll find the shock tool useful in holding the shock hair and the techno wheel, wrench, which has a shock cap tool in the top handy for helping tighten the shock cap right down once in place. With the bleed hole facing upwards set, a final rebound position by pressing the shock shaft to the desired location stock is 100 rebound, which means the shaft is fully down and hold in this position, while inserting the bleed screw into the cap until snug and that’s. It first shock fully prepared after replicating the same process on the other shock. We have both front shocks. Complete. All that’s left is to insert the supplied springs, install a spring perch on the opposite end to hold it in place and insert a 10 millimeter set screw to secure finally insert a shock cap bushing into the shock cap and we’re, ready to mount to the buggy. When mounting the shocks note that the slot in the spring perch should face the outside of the vehicle, so with that in mind, slide the shock cap onto the shock standoff and screw on a flanged lock nut complete with some thread lock to secure into place.
I find it easier to hold the shock stand off with a wrench, while tightening the nut down. The bottom of the shock is secured to the suspension arm the middle hole being the stock position with a single 18 millimeter shock mount screw, securing it into place repeat on the opposite side, so lock, nut up on the shock, stand off and 18 millimeter shock mount Screw on the lower inside hole, this one being black and right hand threaded and with that our front shocks are complete. The rare shocks in bag m are very similar to the front, although it’s a good idea to build a set at a time, rather than get them mixed up, the shock bodies are slightly longer and the shock oil is slightly thinner at 600 cst, but otherwise the Process in building them is exactly the same, so we won’t cover the same process all over again and i’ve, prepared them off camera. Instead, din nou, we mount these onto the shock standoffs, with a single nut, complete with some thread lock, taking care to make sure the slot. In the spring, perch is facing outwards and again using the stock middle hole on the arms ensuring you use the correct colored screw on the correct side of the vehicle, and we are done. That’S bags, l and m complete and both front and rear shocks mounted onto the vehicle all feels perfectly fluid and that’s pretty much all the main parts of the vehicle build and complete now, and it is looking great so far in the next part.