RPM Caster and Steering Blocks, and Metal Shock Caps for the 6s Rustler 4×4!
First of the 404 and in the last video i geared this thing up to make it faster and obviously faster is a lot of fun. But it does mean that when i hit things i hit them a lot harder and some more stuff breaks and, as you can see here, that’s what’s happened. This shot cap has come off. This arm here is broken. This steering block is getting pretty sloppy and the shell is just quietly falling to pieces. So in today’s, video i’m gon na be fixing all that. I’Ve got some metal shock caps to replace the plastic ones, some rpm arms and wheel carriers to replace the stock ones and some hot glue to fix the shell, so yeah we’re gon na get this stuff on and we’re gon na. Take it out for a test and see how well it does so i’m going to start off with the shock caps, because that’s, the easiest one all you have to do is just unscrew the top screw here and if you want, you can also do the bottom. One here and i’m going to do that just because i’m also going to replace the suspension, arms and the next step is to just unscrew the top and if you’ve taken off the whole shock like me, then you can actually take off this little bottom bit. To make it easier because then you can remove the spring, so you don’t have the spring pushing back on you also, while you’re at it.
You can make sure there’s enough oil in there still and then you can just put the new ones back on and do make sure you take these little rubber pieces and stick them on the top, because otherwise your oil will come out and obviously you’ve taken your Spring off then, make sure to put it back on. Stick the little piece on the bottom back on like that, and you can just put the shocks back on the car and the metal caps actually come with these different screws that you’re supposed to use to that. Before i put mine on i’m also going to replace the suspension arms now, the wheel carriers and suspension arms are pretty simple too. First, you just want to take off your tires now. If you just want to replace the steering blocks which looks like these, then you just have to take off the screw on the top and the other one on the bottom and by the way, if you’re doing a big upgrade like this, then i’d highly recommend having Some actual tools, and not just allen, wrenches i’m, currently using just the allen wrenches, because i left my tools at my friend’s house. But you definitely should have some actual tools so that it just comes right on out and you unscrew this screw here like that. And then you also have to remove the drive shaft. So do that you just remove the hex which for me, is this little screw on the side.
But if you’re using the stock drive shafts, then you just pull and you’re also going to want to get those little bearings out from the inside there you go now. If you’re just replacing this one part here, then you can just do that again in reverse. But if you also want to replace this part, then you just have to take off this screw here and this one here at the top like that and if you’re just replacing these two pieces, then you can just do that again in reverse, but i’m actually going To replace the entire suspension arm so i’m going to do that as well and replacing the suspension arms is also pretty simple. First, you just want to flip your car over and then take off these three screws right here then, on the front, you’ve also got two screws in these holes here and then you can just lift your bumper right off like that now to take off the suspension. Arms you just want to pull out this little pin right here, put the new suspension arm on and then stick the pin back through, like that. Now normally then, just put the bumper back on to do the whole thing in reverse, but i actually still have to do this side so i’m, not gon na. Do that just yet, although before i do the other side i’m going to finish this one. So first you just got to put on the caster block and i’ve got this rpm one here next i’m, just going to take the wheel carrier and i’m going to stick the bearings back in one on that side and the other one and the other side and The reason i’m doing, that is because you actually have to put the drive shaft on before we put this piece on, so it stays in so just put the drive shaft back on, put the little spacer on and the hex and after that, you just want to Put it back on making sure that you keep your drive shaft assembled like that, and the final thing is, i have to put the shock back on perfect, so that’s one side done and the other side is obviously pretty much the same process and the back is Also generally, the same process, the only big difference is that, in order to take off the bumper it’s, these two screws right here and possibly there’s one screw here but i’m, not entirely sure.
Unfortunately, i can’t really do a proper demonstration of the back, because the hobby shop just had the one set of arms and also i’ve already got the rpm wheel carriers in there, but it’s pretty simple. So you should be able to figure it out so i’m. Just going to put on the shock caps and the rpm stuff off camera, and then i’ll see you guys when we’re done all right, so we’ve got all the rpm stuff on and i got the metal shock caps on all around. It looks pretty good. So now we can move on to fixing the shell. Now, the good news about the shell is actually still off most of the important pieces, so we just need to attach them all together, and so you i’ve 3d printed a couple of these little things. So the way these work is basically, you just have to line up the broken bits like that and then glue one of these over the top all right. So i just finished up fixing the shell – and here it is, you can see. We’Ve got all those nice 3d printed supports in there just holding it up, and so it should work pretty nicely now. I will admit that it does look pretty terrible, but the good news is when i’m driving it. It should generally be pretty far away. So i don’t really have to look at it that much – and this is definitely not a permanent solution.
Once i get a nice wheelie bar on there and some other stuff to keep it from destroying the shell so quickly, i’ll get a nice new shell it’ll. Look a lot better, but anyway, though, we’ve got all the upgrades on so let’s get the tires back on and then take it out for a test. You know once it gets a little ways away and you can’t see all the hot glue uh the shell actually does. Look pretty nice. Oh, that was stupid. Oh nice, oh no! Oh there is this shelf. Applause is yours. All right, like mine, is all right. Mine’S! All right, proper fence flip here, wow Music wow – that was cheese that was on like half bottles there, too wow all right. I don’t think the uh glue fix worked still off. Let’S drive like this it’s, fine, oh geez, i mean now i can flip. Oh wow that’s, pretty epic Applause, all right all right, yeah let’s do this. If he makes this shot you have to like and subscribe yeah yeah look at the hoops Applause oops, yes oops! So there it is some rpm stuff, some metal shock caps and a shell fix for the 6s roasted 4×4. I’M. Generally pretty happy with this. So, for starters, the rpm stuff hasn’t broken yet, which is pretty good, and the shock caps haven’t popped off either, which is also very good. I mean there’s not really much else that they’re supposed to do so they definitely drop pretty well now.
I definitely want to bash these things a little bit harder like do more jumps and more crashes and stuff, so we can really see how strong they are, but unfortunately there are a few things that are holding us back from doing that at the moment, which i’ll Get to in a minute now the one thing that didn’t really work in this video was the shell fix. I mean to be fair, it did hold up pretty well until i did a backflip into it, so it’s about as strong as the shell was before, but that’s, not actually very good. Apart from that, though, these are definitely some really good upgrades. As i said, there are a couple things that are holding this car back the first one. Is these wheels, as you may know, they have the wrong size hex, so i need to use some adapters to run them. So originally i used the 3d printed ones, which weren’t very strong. So then i switched to some metal ones, but unfortunately they keep falling out. So lately i’ve just sort of been casting new hexes out of jb weld and that sort of works, but it doesn’t really work very well. The other issue with this is the servo saver. It’S gotten super worn out over time, and so now i really can’t even steer when i’m going off road, but don’t worry, though, once i do that we’ll take this thing out for a proper test and see just how much it can handle so stay tuned.
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