It’S, a great looking recreation of the full size street stock racing class and should have the performance to match now. The sr 10 comes in this big old box and inside it’s assembled and configured with electronics, with the body painted and ready to go aside from the extra little parts and instruction manuals. The xp 120 two channel transmitter is also included and it’s pretty nice with trims and dual rate dials. The transmitter requires four double a batteries which are not included. The sr 10 also requires a battery pack to function. So if you don’t have one the sr, 10 combo includes a two cell lipo battery and that lipo battery charger for only 60 dollars more than the version without which is a pretty good deal for newcomers in the hobby. The sr 10 will probably need to be equipped with a 2 cell lipo to be raced within the rules, so the combo keeps you covered, but the sr 10 is also compatible with 3 cell lipos, which are more powerful for street stock racing. Top speed is not really important, but we’re still curious. How fast is the sr 10? Well, in its out of the box configuration the sr 10 achieved a top speed of 21 miles an hour when using a 2 cell lipo and then later, when we switched to a 3 cell lipo, we reached a top speed of 31 miles an hour Music. If you enjoy fling and dirt subscribe, if you haven’t already like we said, speed, isn’t everything with this racing class and the sr 10 track performance starts with our one piece: street stock lexon body that’s been painted white and decorated, with decals, to enhance the body, realism And racing library decals are used for the grill headlights, tail lights, blinkers door handles window netting and more thanks to the guys at the area.

51 design team at team associated the sr 10 sports, the number 51 with red white and blue racing colors, and it looks pretty dang good. Lastly, the lexan body features a molded in rear, spoiler and wide fenders that cover the tires. These tires and wheels are pretty good looking themselves with the tires featuring a street stock inspired tread design. These tires are then glued to the lightweight wheels that use a 12 millimeter hex, which is very common when choosing aftermarket tires and wheels. The body on the sr 10 looks really good, but the meat and potatoes of this vehicle starts with our chassis, which uses an independent suspension. Big bore 12 millimeter oil filled shocks, adjustable steel turnbuckles to adjust your camber easy, adjust hook and loop battery straps, a three gear transmission with a gear differential and, lastly, a rear motor placement to grab as much traction as we can. The sr 10 also uses captured cvds to transfer the power, not dog bones. If you’ve been rc long. This platform probably looks really familiar to you and i know there’s some people out there saying well. This looks just like the dr 10 drag car with just a different body, but it’s not the biggest difference between the sr 10 and the dr 10 is that the sr 10 uses a completely different chassis, that’s shorter than the dr 10. That makes the sr 10 wheelbase on par with a one tenth scale racing buggy, making it a bit more nimble and reactive to steering inputs.

The bumpers on the sr 10 have also been upgraded for more bumping and rubbing while racing with an extra absorbent tube bumper used in the rear and in the front a hard plastic mount with foam pad. The body mounts on the sr 10 are also an updated design and they’re adjustable to fit aftermarket bodies. The last thing to talk about before we head out to the track are the sr 10 electronics for our steering there’s a reedy metal gear, ready to run servo. That has a servo saver. The esc is the sc600bl brushless speed controller and, like mentioned it’s 2s and 3s lipo compatible it’s, also water resistant, and it uses a t style connector. So your batteries need a t style too. The sc600bl is also compatible with older nickel metal hydride batteries, but only after you switch the battery mode on the esc to nim, as outlined in the manual that’s included on page two. Now for the motor power it’s, a redi 3300 kv brushless motor and it’s the fastest motor. You can use with this esc on 3s lipo power. The last piece of our electronics is the included receiver we’re, sealed away in this water resistant box. This receiver comes paired to our transmitter and features dvc technology or dynamic vehicle control, which utilizes a built in steering gyro to help you go straight in loose conditions, you can also adjust the gyro gain on the receiver or turn it off completely out of the box.

It comes set at medium strength and that’s, where we’ve left it. Okay, let’s head to the track funny enough. Our track. The silver dollar rc raceway is located just a few hundred feet away from the proper full size dirt oval track, which is a popular sport. In our area, so it’s only right that our rc track has one of the nicest bank dirt oval tracks around now, when we got to the track, it was hot dry, dusty and windy, and the track surface was far from ideal during race days, a crew of Guys maintains the track by blowing off the dust and keeping it wet, but that is not today, that’s not gon na stop us, though, and we still put down some laps, which proved extremely challenging. I made the bonehead move of using a 3 cell lipo, which is just way too much power. We then put some water down on the track and the car was a little better. There are two things i want to. Try first want to take out the 3s and put in a slower 2s. Second, i want to turn off the dvc gyro to see how much that’s helping us after those changes. We got back on the track and it was obvious the dvc helped more than i want to admit, and the car was even more challenging to drive, because we just didn’t have the traction levels we needed. We could turn the dvc back on and even turn it up higher, but we’re not going to.

Instead, we want to better set up the car and thankfully, at the track. We ran into the guy to help us out so we’re out here at the silver dollar. Rc raceway with kev angelic, who manages and maintains our facilities he puts on all the races, he’s super knowledgeable with all things, racing and, of course, oval cars. Thank you, sir, for joining us yeah glad to be a part of it yeah. What do you think of this thing? The sr10? I think it’s awesome, i think, it’s a neat concept. I think it’s something that oval tracks can adopt uh bring into their program as a spec type mobile class yeah. It keeps the cost down and what’s really what’s. Really good about it is you can pop a bank trade paint without tying up wheels on each other right you get out there with sprint cars. They get open wheels. They don’t touch very well. They don’t trade paint very well this one you can bump someone from the back. You can get bump from the back. You can go from the side without tying up wheels and i think it’ll just be a really good uh, like intro or spec stock or uh street stock class yeah yeah for oval tracks, um. So we’ve we’ve put this on the track in its box stock form. It was a bit of a handful to drive. You just mentioned that we have quite a bit of rubbing here on our outside, so we definitely should yeah what that do is going to pinch the wheel down uh but i’m sure that’s, just a body adjustment it’s like stopping the tire, though yeah, when that car Bottoms out because it tracks bumpy right, we just ran an eight scale event out here.

The opal tracks got some bumps on it and stuff like that. Uh, the car, the tire’s gon na bottom out, hit that wheel well pinch it and make it bind and possibly do weird things. So if we just took this body post, the nice thing about the car kit comes with the ability to adjust the ride height on the front we’ll just space it up, one it’ll probably do good. It looks like it has just a touch of rub here: nothing, bad a little touch of rub here, but nothing that’s horrible. We could possibly also play a little bit of camber that’s. Another thing we can play with with the car, which is really nice – it’s, got adjustable turnbuckles, so you can, like you, can lean tire certain directions to help like kind of preset, the tire for the angle of the banking, because we have making in all of our Track here, yeah yeah right so um. What about like? Is there a general shock or diff set up? I mean i’m primarily interested in the diff, because it is really loose. It’S just got grease in it. So i want to. I want to put something in there. That’S proper i’m, not sure about the shocks, though i’d say i think, it’s a gear. Div i’m, pretty sure it is yeah yeah uh anywhere from yeah that’s gon na just make it really twitchy and hard to drive off center with that frame of a dip.

Yeah. Do anything from 7 000 to 15 000.? Okay, i mean you can try that that would be a good thing to do. You can play with spring tensions on the front and the left rear uh. You can offset a little weight in the car to help with that. You can add some more through certain parts of the car. Just by extending the shock shafts or something like that. Okay, just little adjustments you can make to make the car handle and get around the track a lot better. So what what do you think recommended for tire wise? What should we try out here? Well, i’ve got i’ve got a set of tires. You can try. I think these are hex tires: okay, yeah, they’re, 12, mil yeah 12 mil hex i’ve got a set of sprinters okay concept, sprinters uh. We could put a set of uh spreader fronts and spreader rears, and i guarantee the car will get on the track. A lot better, yeah let’s try it. You want to do and play with the spring tensions. We can raise this up, so the tire doesn’t rub. Maybe the new tires will just clear in the body a little bit better, but let’s do all that. Okay, to get us better prepared to race the sr 10, we bought some parts we have tires. These are the j concept sprinters for the front two wheel, fronts in blue compound, and then these are the green rear.

Sprinters. Then we have b6 wheels to match it and then lastly, we’re gon na change the diff fluid. This is 10 000 k. We’Ll put this in. We didn’t buy this it’s. Actually a loaner fluid that we got from somebody else, let’s. Do it Music, it’s the next day race day saturday and our car is completely reworked with new tires 10k diff fluid the body’s been raised, one hole on the mounts and we geared up four teeth: larger on the pinion for a 22 tooth to use on 2s Use sadly, there’s a few issues with today, one being i have no cameraman to get cool shots and i’m only using this gopro on my head. Second, the winds out here are almost 30 miles an hour and that’s a serious issue, not to mention all the dust in your eyes or the cars being parachuted off the track. After a jump, we had the wind direction, cause us understeer in corners, one and two, but caused oversteer in corners three and four. So on one half of the oval, the car was very stable and easy to push hard and on the other, half the car was a little sketchy which you could try to compensate for on the steering wheel and that made for some very lively driving now. Overall performance on the dirt was hugely improved from where we started, and even in these winds, you could confidently push the sr 10. Through the turns, we even had a bunch of guys try out the sr 10 to get their thoughts and no one seemed disappointed, except for the fact that the win caused us to cancel the race, which is very rare.

It was a great time, though, and that dirt oval is definitely fun and challenging, even though it looks easy when you’ve never done it and i’m guilty for thinking that we can see the sr 10 being a great platform to start out with, as well as being A great spec class for race tracks to keep an even playing field. I think the sr 10 could be awesome on the pavement too swap out these tires and do some good old parking lot oval racing it doesn’t get much simpler than that guys.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tT9i9Bz1PhQ