I wanted to talk about this, which is my tamiya black foot, which is the 2016 re release on the orv chassis. Now this is a fantastic kit to build and i would recommend it as a kit and also looks fantastic when youve finished it. But this is a very old tamiya chassis and i have had some issues which ill be talking about. So if youre mainly looking for something to knock around then this might not be for you, but for the tamiya enthusiast, yeah, really good one and one you really ought to have in your collection. So i read up about this before i built it, and everyone was saying to put the mip ball diff in if youre going to be going with a brushless set. So i did do that as quite an expensive upgrade. You might actually notice that ive got a brushed motor in this now say after quite a lot of testing. I decided really. The brushless is too much for this chassis and the the handling and just the general strength of it. So ill talk a little bit more about that. Also, i did do a speed test of this while it was brushless uh. So i will show you that as well now, you might have seen the original test run. Video of this at the golf course when it was on brushless and it all looked like everything, went fantastically and nothing went wrong, which isnt entirely true.

First thing to look at is the drive shafts, which were popping out of the drive cups on the mip ball. Diff, so you can see on this side. Ive got the rubber boot and thats, because the drive shaft popped out so many times its sort of tearing up the rubber, so ive sort of left it off. What was happening is when the wheel was extended down on the suspension, the maximum amount. It was sort of coming out of the drive cup there, and so what ive done about it is to sort of shorten the travel of the suspension ill. Just show you how ive done that, so on this car, what actually determines how far the suspension can come down? Isnt the length of the springs – the spring is actually quite a bit longer than that and its compressed and its the stops here that actually stop it from going too far. You might notice theres a screw now in there that ive put in so what ive done. Ive just sort of put a screw in there and i sort of filed it down until it was all the appropriate height and it sort of reduced the ride height of this a little bit. But what it means is that that drive shaft now doesnt get too near the end of the cup there, and you still have plenty of travel on that and probably to start with, you had a little bit too much travel given the height of these tyres.

So thats kind of sorted out that problem, i dont know if anyone else has had that problem. So let me know in the comments i dont know. If you have the same problem, if you dont use the mip diff and you just use the standard kit, drive cups and everything but uh yeah, i was certainly finding that was an issue, and that happened several times on that first test run and was a bit Of a pain to be honest so because id lowered the back down a little bit, i needed to lower the front a little bit, so it didnt ride like that, so thats in the more normal way putting spaces on the shaft inside the shock body. There theres still plenty of travel with this, so the next issue i had was with body posts, lets get the body off and show you so back here you can see. Youve got these very long body posts, and these are made out of that very shiny, brittle tamiya plastic that breaks quite easily and uh. What was happening was that the tops would sort of sheer off in a crash and sort of actually shear the top off, and you might see theres a bit of a modification there. So what ive done ive got like spare body posts that have another kit and uh just cut the end off and i sort of drilled down into the hard plastic bits and uh sort of threaded that bit of post through there just used body clips to hold That in place – and that seems to work very well so ive done the same sort of thing on the front there, so its just a spare bit of post through there and held in with body clips and uh they havent broken since so before.

Ive done this mod. Actually, what ive done in the interim was to use the monster beetle posts which sort of go on there and so theres a slightly different one. On the front, i was using the lexan beetle shell, and that did work pretty well. It is sort of tougher using the beetle shell on this uh, where the lexan beetle shell anyway, but eventually what happened was a terrible crash where this got hit. So if you can see there, ive got that sugru around there, which wasnt nearly strong enough actually and ive got a cable tie around there, because what broken was actually where the post meets the chassis there. I didnt want to buy a whole new chassis off sort of fix this up a bit really. I could probably do with a new chassis for that, and also this brace now is a metal one, because the plastic one did smash into about a million pieces in that crash, so that all seems reasonably strong now, but i say i think there is quite a Lot of brittle plastic here, so there is sort of a general weakness with this car. Actually, one thing ive just remembered that ive done is put these spaces in these are the bushings you get in some kits instead of bearings uh, because the battery tray could do with being a bit wider. What i wanted to do was to be able to thread the battery wire up through here, so it wasnt poking out the side, so ive just sort of spaced that out a little bit and then you can thread the battery plugger up through there and then sort Of tuck tap out of the way, so i like to see battery bars flopping about the place and also with this with the plastic servo saver, there was huge amounts of play in the steering you could notice, while it was driving still a bit of play.

Theres, mostly in the hubs i think but uh what ive done is put a tamiya high, torque servo saver in there i also put a high torque servo on those 25 kilogram ones, uh, because it has got big wheels. This and obviously takes a few knocks anywhere seems to be a bit less clay in the steering than there was now also a recommended upgrade is putting these parts to replace these. These are from the subaru brat, and these plastic ones tend to break what ive done. Initially, actually on the kit is, it seems to run smoother, to have the plastic piece on there and then put the metal piece on top as a strengthener uh, but once its got a bit of grit in it, actually it um didnt work. So well. So just come with the uh with the metal piece there and it seems to run all right and it hasnt broken. So that is a recommended little upgrade. You might notice in some of the footage. I was running these lunchbox wheels and tires on this, which do work well, a bit more squashy than the original ones. Um. One thing is the front: wheels will scuff on the steering gear. You need to just put a little bushing or two at the front. Just to sort of space, the wheel out, you will end up with the front wheel track a little bit wider than the back, but doesnt notice too much so another little thing.

Ive done this cover here also acts as a brace for this shock tower here. Uh. It attaches at the front, but the back its only held on with cable ties uh originally there and there that bit broke so ive got the cable ties around there. The trouble is it kind of slides sideways because theres, nothing really for it to sit on because they didnt design this chassis. With this in mind, i guess to start with so what ive done is probably difficult to see but put a couple of screws into the chassis so that this sort of sits strides the screws there, so it cant sort of slide sideways anymore. So it sort of sits there a bit better now and so ive got these uh extra cable ties on the side now to help keep that in place. Okay ill just show you the speed test. I did with this. While it was brushless, it sort of demonstrates a little bit why ive downgraded it to brushed its pretty difficult to keep in a straight line with the brushless sets Music okay, so it did go 25 miles an hour which seems quite impressive on the face of it. But i wouldnt recommend it. It was very, very difficult to keep it in a straight line and on its wheels, its sort of got a tendency to flip over. I did sort of damage the body a bit off camera it tipped over um. So i kind of stopped the speed test uh fairly soon, because i dont want to damage this lovely hard plastic body, so i think it was at that point.

I decided that really uh this thing isnt built for speed. I wanted to run it with this hard plastic body because, although you can put the lexan beetle shell on it, sort of then just looks a bit like a generic battery. It didnt quite look like a monster beetle or anything and also with the lunchbox wheels and tires it didnt. Look like the original thing, so what i wanted to do was just run it as it is because it looks fantastic doesnt it i mean its one of the best looking tamirs and it sort of looks good all up on the tall wheels and uh yeah. I really like the looks of it but uh with brushless. It was more like to be in a high speed crash and break and it was pretty unstable and it would sort of tip over far too easily. So i just thought: well uh, try it with brushed and see how much fun i can have with it then. So this is just a 15 turn motor that ive put in and just a brushed esc, and i went back to the golf course of the original test run and ran it. And although you cant jump quite as far with it, you could sort of have just about as much fun uh jumping around in the bunkers. That is a sort of ideal space for one of these just a little space with bumps and lumps and uh sand that you can skid around in so um thats how it is now sort of uh going to leave it brushed.

I think the glass for this is just sort of run. It more nicely like that and not include it in the big bash sessions with the other cars where it might get broken and say just enjoy it for what it is, which is a very lovely. Looking tamiya from back in the day now we do wonder now. This is brushed, albeit slightly upgraded brushed motor, whether it could have got away without the mip ball diff and just use the kit differential because uh you know with less power, it might be. Alright, i dont know if these big wheels will still cause the diff to slip, which seemed to be the problem. People were talking about, but uh yeah, i dont know i think. If the mip diff does wear out, i will try the kit, uh diff and just see how i get on with that right. So i think thats all i had to say about this one in summary: a really nice kit, but uh its an old design. So a few strength issues so go a little bit easy on it.