This is the b6.3d and, as you can see here got a couple of new features over the dot 2. like the front and rear shock towers are updated. It’S got a direct mount servo now comes with the octa spur standard, like the trucks, do and they’ve added some protectors on the shock towers. Also, so you can see. It’S got some protectors here and we’ll go over everything that’s different about this car, and maybe why you would want to buy this one over the standard car that you have right now, if it’s a good upgrade or if you want to save your money and wait For the b7, or something like that, when it comes out so let’s go ahead and rip this open and check out what’s inside, like all the other kits from most manufacturers, they come in these plastic bags and you can see some of the parts are still on The plastic tree here this kit does include a body and it’s got a lot of aluminum parts in it. Also some carbon fiber stuff and you can see it’s got a couple of wings, got a front. A rear wing it’s got some adjustable parts here for the uh rear end. As far as the geometry goes on the arms and, of course, it’s got this nice uh chassis. What we’re gon na do is dig into the kit, get it built and then give you guys a close up look of what the differences are with this kit versus the Music 2.
0 Music. Okay, the car is now built and let’s go over some of the changes with this kit, as well as some of the things that are the same, that are just cool with this car in general, the build time on the car took about three hours. It may take you a little less or a little longer, depending on what tools you’re using and how much experience you have building cars like this. So the first thing i wanted to mention is the kit comes with these slipper pads, and these were a factory option before, and it also comes with the new octalox spur gear setup as well and what’s nice about these particular slipper pads. Is they have these notches? In them, it’s a little less guessing on if the pad is seated or not when you’re installing it so looking around the car, one of the things they’ve added is the shock tower guards, so you can see in the front there’s a a plastic one that covers All of the holes on the car for the shock towers – and this is nice because dirt would get in these little holes and then you have to clean it out and just would would end up being a mess. So they’ve removed the holes on that. And if you see on the back here, there’s a little extra piece of plastic on the back to keep the cap in place and on the back tower there they have these caps they’re.
Just on the edges, so they’re kind of like ears that go around the outside edge of the tower the rear tower. Honestly, didn’t have the same problem as the front tire tower did when you crashed most of the impact would would be taken up by the wing, and maybe you would get a little bit of scratches here and there on the rear tower. It’S got a narrower design, as well as more holes or more more options for you for adjusting the rear shocks. So you can now you have four holes on the outside. Instead of three, the rear end of the car did change a little bit as well. So the biggest difference is the d block, is two millimeters wider now and cvds are a little bit wider. Also so the drive shafts now are the 69 millimeter instead of the 67 millimeter. The kit now comes with a mount for the battery brace, so you can take a ball stud and put it in the battery brace and then connect it directly to the transmission. This just gives you a little bit more stability, a little less flex in the chassis, and i personally didn’t set the car up this way, because sometimes we end up just removing this brace or this waterfall or just removing the screw. These carbon fiber steering arms are now the plus one millimeter, and this helps for more steering response. They also adjusted the plastic slightly on the steering rack itself to make it have a little less play and i’m seeing this on the bench that it does have a little less play.
The other change in the front of the car is the way the servo is mounted it’s now mounted directly to the chassis via these holes. Instead of mounted to these side guards. This is to make the connection with the serv servo and the chassis a little bit stronger and avoid any kind of flexing that would happen and possibly make your steering a little unpredictable depending on any kind of flex that was going on. So if you like running your transponder in the mylabs transponder clip now, you can just put a couple of screws in the servo brace and put your transponder directly into that. For me, i don’t remove the transponder between classes or between races or anything like that. So i’ve just went ahead and double sided taped it to the back of the servo it’s going to be there permanently. This servo, i pulled directly out of my b6.2 and it already had the aluminum servo mount on it. So i went ahead and kept that on there as far as shock changes go there’s really not a lot of change in this kit. The only difference is they made the pistons on the front and the rear slightly thinner. I typically one run the vrp pistons, so i’m planning on trying these pistons out, seeing if i like them and then maybe going to the vrp game changer pistons later on. So once you build your car, you do have a few parts that are left over and i just want to go through some of that, because it’s kind of cool what they give you for extra parts.
So this is the 13 gram weight that you’re gon na mount your speed, control and your receiver to, and you can also mount your transponder if you want, and this screws directly into the bottom of the chassis, so it’s easy and it’s easy to remove when needed. This isn’t a new part it’s just kind of nice to to have in the kit. You also get a spur cover. This is just for. If you’re running outdoors, you would want to run this, keep the dust and debris out of the spur gear and the pinion gear. So you get an extra 78 tooth octa spur gear. Also – and this is nice if you’re running mud and in here there are a few new parts in here that are specific just to this car. So the first one is these three and two wire ties, and these are helpful for just keeping cable management inside your car. You also get quite a bit of extra shock, mounts different offsets, so here’s the sticker sheet. The body for the car is the exact same body that you got with the dot two, so there’s, no change that i can tell anyway. I believe this is the same exact body that came with the dot two. One of the things that i like to do is i um print these pill, organizers, and this helps you quickly find which which pill you’re trying to install in your car. So if you want to print this, for your own i’ll, put a link in the description and you can uh print this one out.
So the other parts that are in this box, there’s one extra front wing and the layback transmission is in here so there’s. Four parts for that, as well as the smaller idler gear for the layback transmission. You get a couple of parts here for uh anti sway bars that don’t come with the kit, but the they share the plastic parts for for the steering linkage and, of course, the servo mounts. Okay for the new car, i went ahead and painted up a new body to go with it. So this is the pro line axis body and it was designed for the older cars, the dot two and the dot one. Obviously it works perfectly on this car as well, because the chassis layout has not changed between the three iterations and i’ve mounted up some new tires. These are the proline positron tires and the car is going to be getting phantom battery and motor and hobby wing speed, control and san juan servo. Obviously, as far as value goes with the upgrade, this is a something i’ve been struggling with. To figure out, the car is very valuable as far as durability, construction parts, availability, everything’s top notch for this car, this particular iteration of the car is very similar to what they did with the dot two there’s, not a massive change to the layout of the car. The chassis, so as far as whether or not you should upgrade to the dot three, if you’re coming from a dot one or a dot, two, i would say it’s not as big of a change as we saw between the b6 and the b6.
1. So if you’re happy with your car, if it’s uh, not worn out i’d, say the the money might be better spent in other places like practice, time tires motors batteries and maybe save up for that upgrade later on for the b7. If that comes out – or maybe the next iteration after this one, if you did want to upgrade your 0.2 to a dot 3, the biggest thing i would go after is making the back end compatible with what they did with the dot three, so the wider rear Arm mounts and the longer bones would be a good place to start, as well as the updated rear shock tower so overall, i’m, really looking forward to trying this out on the track. Seeing you know what the changes uh did as far as performance goes and handling and i’ve been hearing good things from other folks that have upgraded to this car as far as performance thanks everybody for checking out the b6.3d build, and i hope you find these videos Useful to you, if you do, please hit that like button and subscribe to my channel for more rc content and we’ll, see in the next video.