So pro c10s are a very uh ubiquitous short course truck that is uh ready to run so, if you’re new to rc ready to run as referred to as rtr, you get everything in the box, you need to start driving it. This truck out of the box is suitable for bashing, so that’s, just like driving in a park or on the beach or your backyard. Whatever, however, it can be set up for racing and where i’m from and the type of tracks that we run. This is actually a very competitive choice: the tracks that we run here in new brunswick and eastern canada for the most part, as far as i’m aware, are all natural old school tracks. What that means is you tear up the sod and whatever surface is under the grass that’s? What you run on there is some prep done to the surface, but almost all are just completely natural. We have one quote: unquote: clay track, but it’s, nothing like the clay tracks that you see in the united states or other parts of the world where the clay has been completely treated with all kinds of product to make it smooth clean and hide bite our tracks. Our tracks aren’t like that for that matter, the people who the most winningest group in new brunswick are all running uh, older versions of rear motor lozy cars, so, whether it be a short horse truck or a buggy. The guys that are winning here in new brunswick are running rear motor cars.
So last year was my first year in rc uh. Since i was a kid in the 80s and we used to play around with rc racing, we had a track, but we didn’t have a timing system. Didn’T know what we were doing, but we had a track and we drove around crashed a lot and had fun fast forward to the 90s, where i started to race carpet oval. So i was racing an rc10l3 oval, and that was a lot of fun. Then i got into planes now uh. I decided that i needed a new hobby when the pandemic started, so i started to get into rc built my own backyard track and everything we held an organized race, the whole nine yards that’s, neither here nor there on to this truck. So this is my second pro se10 and last year i had a pro c 10 that i that i ran box stock and then i bought an sc 6.1 now the sc 6.1. It took me all season to get it to hook up uh. It required brass. Everything and it required a four year, stand up transmission, which the tlr is retailer which associated since discontinued, because there’s almost no need for it around the world anymore, because tracks are so high bike. This car – or this short course truck, is rear motor, so it’s a modern vehicle that also happens to be rear. Motor it’s, a 5 series so right now associated into 6 series, so you’ve got sc6 and t6 and b6 and those are the newest series of cars and then 0.
1.2 etc. So what i did to this was out of the box. I replaced as many parts as i could with six series. Parts reason is one: i hope that it’ll improve the performance of this vehicle, but two i also have a swac of spare parts, so i was asked to kind of do a video and talk about what exactly i did to this car and maybe the rationale like A lot of people would be like that’s, not the right choice for my track and it and depending on where you are, it may not be. But if you live in a region that is small like us and the tracks are all backyard tracks and there’s, only club racing and you’d be lucky to get 10 to 15 guys show up at a race. Then this truck and the modifications i did to it. May be for you so um first thing i did was replace the front arms with t6 or sc 6.1 arms. I also replaced the caster blocks and steering blocks. I did break two steering blocks on my first pro c10 uh, just driving around like bashing, but not like smashing just driving in a backyard and on the street and stuff like that and ended up breaking two steering blocks, which i was pretty disappointed because it didn’t Take a hard hit or anything now, um also up front, i put on the associated aluminum steering belt cranks uh. I left the rack plastic now.
I also did the same work to a b5. I call it my b5.6 and we’ll cover that in another video um shocks are the kashima bodies and everything else that would be in the v2, 12 millimeter big bore shock. The shocks that come on this kit are okay, ish at minimum. They need to be tightened. Uh because they leak right out of the box, that’s been my experience with both um and they need the bleeder caps, because bleeding shocks of bleeder caps can be done, but it’s inconvenient, uh, okay. So there is a modification that has to be done to install these arms onto the front bulkhead, and it requires both fitting, which means fancy word for sanding and a shim. So the front of the arm up here, the inside edge, needs to be, or was the oh, no sorry the outside. So the camera is never going to pick that up, but i had to sand the front of the arms here to make sure that the suspension moved freely without binding, and i had to put a shim in here. So i just used the shims that come with a one of the six series kits that you would use for hub spacing and they fit in there uh perfectly so moving towards the back um. This is uh where i’m most happy with the work that i did. I was able to find on ebay the aluminum chassis, brace, slash ball, stud mount so that’s the blue piece of anodized aluminum.
You see there. I did this because it frankly one cool factor and two adds a little bit of extra weight to the back of the vehicle and also i was able to score a aluminum c block. Now. I’M surprised the aluminum c blocks aren’t more popular, given the fact that this is basically a no prep drag car as well. The dr 10 and the dr 10 is really really popular in no prep, drag racing and there’s a lot of companies making aftermarket parts for that for those cars exotech being one of them but associated, has discontinued the aluminum c block so they’re hard to find and The pills that go inside are even harder now why? Why does this matter or why would you want this? So, with the six series cars you have an aluminum c block and d block with pills inserts that go inside those and those inserts facilitate the tuning of anti squat and toe out of the box. The car comes with c blocks that are one piece, molded plastic and you swap out the entire c block to change your toe and your anti squat. So if you see one of the c blocks and there’s numbers on it, three plus two or three plus two point, five or two point: five plus whatever it’s three degrees, toe two degrees, anti squad, that’s, what those numbers mean so first number is toe and the Second, number is anti squat uh also on here i have the c block.
The inserts for the c block have an arrow on them and you need to point the arrow in or they arrow out, and that that again is to adjust toe the other thing. I’Ve done to improve the performance of both this and my b5 is oh and the b5 and the pro se10 series. The gearboxes are not identical. They are interchangeable, but not identical. The b5 top shaft requires a spacer, the pro se10 gearbox top shaft does not. So if you’re, trying to upgrade a b5 just get your hands on a pro se10 or a dr 10 gearbox top shaft, and that will bolt directly to your b5 chassis. I know because i did it. The other thing i did was the idler gear in these gearboxes chip under just regular 2s use and the first pro sc10 i had. I ran bone stock, electronics, motor speed control everything and i sold it at about halfway through the season, ended the season and the guys hold it to within a couple of days, had a chipped idler to either gear and that part’s constantly out of stock and hard To get but exotec makes a metal one, i say metal as opposed to steel aluminum. I think it’s aluminum, but i can’t be sure so i’m just going to call it metal, but you can find that part on exotex website or a mains website and find out what the material is. Um. You know definitely a desirable upgrade, but since now the top shaft is metal and the idler gear is metal.
Does that mean that the stress is going to be transferred onto the diff gear and the difficulty is going to chip, not sure we’ll, see uh? Also, okay, now the suspension, i went with t6 or sc6 arms 0.1, so they have the inserts removing the shock position on the bottom of the arm, and i went with b74 hubs now. These arms are not symmetrical, they are swept, so you can use any kind of hub that doesn’t have sweep from any of the six series vehicles. I went with the um. I had some extra b74 hubs, so that’s what i went with the b74 hub uses a ball stud and washer on the top, and so that facilitates an easier roll center adjustment on the hub, as opposed to the ball stud going in this way and being parallel To the arm now it goes in through the top and is perpendicular to the arm. So now i can adjust the roll center on either the hub or the ball stud mount and is there there was fitting required for the rear arms. I believe, but i don’t know – maybe not – i don’t see any evidence of sanding that i did i built this a long time ago. So my memory is, you know that of a goldfish, so um that’s it so with the six series. Caster blocks steering blocks b74 hubs. This all gives me more adjustability. This suspension geometry is slightly different, so when i get it on the track for the first time i’m going to have to play with shock position on tower and arm to, you know, get the right amount of side bite in the rear and steering in the front.
So maybe i’ll do an update video after that is done, but that’s it for now you may feel free to post any questions below or comments and feedback and uh i’ll do my best to to answer those. So, thanks for watching and i’m not going to do that usual, oh, give it a thumbs up and like or subscribe or you do you.