2 it’s a 110 scale, electric race, stadium truck and i’m all done well, pretty much got to do the esc and the body, but other than that. It is all nicely put together, so i wanted to talk about the build and how it went and as well some little tips and tricks. First off. I am running a starbucks 1267 sg steel geared servo, the black edition, of course, and then uh motor wise. I am running the brand new wits racing 13 and a half turn motor super high quality motor at a really really good value as well. These are 100 bucks normally, but we do have a 20 off coupon code. So definitely, click on that link and you will see 20 percent osteo. You get this more for like 80 bucks, which has got to be the best deal, i think in the rc motor industry, and then they also did just release these brand new witch racing. Aluminum cooling fans, so nice little touch and the t 6.2 does have this little fan mount so a good place to put your actual fan, also rolling on the hyper glide ceramic bearings from witch racing. Super nice set of bearings spin super free, so yeah super excited about this did put on some other option parts so i’m running a steel esc, tray there and then also a steel front bulkhead, as well as a titanium, slipper bolt right there and then a gear Differential, so i am setting this thing up for carpet.
There are no carpet setup sheets out there, so just kind of went with the blake champlain t6.1 setup sheet. We’Ll start with that see how that runs and then make modifications as necessary, but uh yeah not a whole lot of information out there. Yet this is a brand new kit and then still being developed, and obviously a lot of places are closed right now for racing. So in terms of uh, the build itself went together really nicely. If you built a b6.2 or an sc 6.2 or even like a b6.1, they all build pretty much the same uh. All the instructions were pretty good, little minor things here and there that were a little bit odd, like the ball cuts for the drag link, there were like in a much later bag think like bag. I don’t know n or something like that, but you build you, build the front end up front and then uh you do kind of have to search through some of those bags later in the kit. Also, all the bearings come together as usual. So a lot of parts on parts trees as well, probably more parts reason i think i’ve ever encountered on, like any team associate kit, so maybe saving a few bucks here and there. But you know nothing really bad overall now, in terms of things to watch out, for, i would say definitely make sure you have a 1.3 millimeter hex driver because, like these little captured screws for the hinge pins, are that tiny little 1.
3 millimeters? I think you could also use a 0.05 inch they’re just about the exact same size, but like a one and a half millimeter hex driver is not going to cut it’s going to be way too big. The other thing to watch out for is that these caster blocks that hold on the spindles yeah. They are kind of miss. I don’t know what you call it: mismolded they’re not perfectly straight out like the the bottom one kind of angles up and you kind of have to like file it down. Shave it down uh just to get to like spin freely so watch out for that and then, if you’re running a carpet vehicle, you do also need to pick up the carpet bushings. I only have the two and the one millimeter bushings, but on carpet. You’Re really gon na run like zero and three millimeters, so uh that does not come in the kit. Some of the older kits like the b6, did actually come with both sets, but on the t 6.2 you do have to pick that up separately. If you want to run that other than that uh everything went together really nicely ball. Caps are hair loose, looser than i recall on other teammates as a kid, but they are super free, so no problems there and then the final thing i would watch out for is that the servo mounts you can see these little four screws that bolt the servo Onto these little aluminum servo mounts make sure the bottom ones are using a slightly shorter screw if you’re not using any sort of spacer.
You want to space your servo forward or back to try to get that drag link as horizontal as possible if it’s angled, really where then you know you’re, probably using the wrong spacer, but if you’re using no steering spacers at all that bottom screw is actually going To be a little too long and like stick out too far and kind of push up against that little plastic mount there on the side, rails and so yeah pick up a shorter screw. I think you need like a three by six millimeter screw um. If you’re not running any spacers, just to make sure that your servo is nice and flat, otherwise it’s going to be like kind of cockeyed and you know sort of pointing upwards because you won’t be able to get that screw like out of the way so that’s. Pretty much it no other real issues to talk about. It is nice that they come with the layback and lay down transmission. Also, they do have options on where you mount the shocks so i’m running the shocks on the front of the arms. So you would, you do have to put the tower on the front of the transmission case, but if you’re running in the back, then obviously you mount to the back and you remove this little spacer there. If you want the rear shocks on the back of the arm, so yeah that’s pretty much. It hope you enjoyed this video definitely check out the witch racing products really really nice motors i’m super excited to try them and you know probably going to start switching over.
You know if these are performing pretty well, but everything i’ve heard about these motors are.