com – and this is my full in depth – build review of the brand new techno et48 2.0. This, of course, is techno’s. Newest 1. 8 skill, 4 wheel, drive electric competition truckee. This video will show the progress of building the kit things. I noticed along the way and things that made this one of the best new e truckies on the market. Now, if you haven’t already check out my unboxing of this kit, where you’ll see exactly everything that comes inside the kit and how it’s packaged from techno before we start i’d like to ask you a question, how should i build up this truggy as a racer or As a basher, ever since the mt410 came out nearly five years ago, bashers were introduced to the techno brand and ever since the et48 lineup has been one of the most popular platforms for bashing. So what would you do race or bash now for the build review in this video we’ll be covering tools needed to assemble your et48 2.0 supplement items needed to assemble your new kit? How the kit assembles, including both positives and negatives owners manual, notes parts left over and finally, my overall thoughts on the build basic tools needed for the build is a concise list of a 1.5 2.0 and 2.5 millimeter hex drivers, 5.0, 5.5 and 7.0 millimeter nut drivers And a four and five millimeter turnbuckle wrench supplement tools that help the build include needle nose, pliers shock, shaft pliers, a 17 millimeter wheel, wrench lexan scissors, a body reamer and a good set of calipers lubricants included in the kit are black grease thread lock: 10, 000 And 20 000 diff oil, 600 cst and 700 cst shock oil, and i added chapstick for building my turnbuckles and protek’s premier blue o ring grease for the shock cartridge rings.
As with all techno vehicles, bags a and b start off by building the differentials. All use. Very similar parts from front to center to rear and top of the line quality like hardened steel, bevel gears and all steel internals. The bevel and pinion is a 40 tooth to nine tooth ratio. So you’ll have tons of torque on this. Gigantic rc supplied with a kit are twenty thousand and ten thousand weight, diff oil, with twenty going in the front and center and ten going in the rear the diffs assemble easily and are so smooth one of the best dips on the 8th skill market. I like to mark my diff cups with a silver sharpie, just to remind me, the weight that’s inside the diffs banksy starchy one assembling the front gearbox, including the five millimeter wide beautiful shock tower 7075 machined aluminum on this one. Currently, the et48 2.0 has newly designed gearboxes included in a supplement bag so make sure and grab those parts. The manual calls for adding shims to the bevel side of the diff, but only if it’s needed, i was able to fit one shim, so i ran with it. I love the design of the techno gearboxes with the trap door on the bottom. It keeps everything sealed up nice disassembled. These are the smoothest, gearboxes i’ve ever assembled, no friction and very smooth. The famous d bag is similar to the sea, but just for the rear. It includes the wing mount and the rear shock tower.
Once again, 70 75 machined aluminum and four millimeters thick the same call for shimming as needed for the diffs, and in this case i could not even get one in so my rear gearbox is shimless. The body mount. Has this unique clamp on design to the shock towers and most unique on the rear tower is three mounting positions for the wing tower. You can now have zero, seven millimeter or 12 millimeter heights on the same wing tower nice. The rear includes a rear center. Universal drive, shaft versus the dog bone and the 48.3. You can even consider making an extreme short wheelbase triggy if you want it. Bag e starts with the rear, a arms c and d blocks and sway bars. This bag also gets you all of the pills for the front and rear stock pills are all set to zero for the build. Both c and d blocks are machined aluminum, which is a nice upgrade as with any techno. The arms are solid if you break a techno arm, you’re, definitely doing it wrong. A big upgrade on the 2.0 vehicles is the bearing assisted, sway, bars, they’re, very simple, and so smooth, no more complicated set screws everywhere. The arm’s inner hinge pins use a metal insert. So they’re very smooth and no arm reaming is necessary with these they fit perfect and needed. No additional washers or shims all assembled it’s. Looking like a rear end bag f included the rest of the rear to make it all functional, rear hubs.
Cbd drive shafts five millimeter, turnbuckles and tons of pills for the fully adjustable geometry. Much of the quality here was in the aluminum hexes and hardened steel, driveshafts and stub axles. The rear hubs assembled easily and there was no play with the gigantic bearings new for the 2.0 – are pills for the hub carriers to adjust roll center they’re flippable for multiple adjustments, also in the outer section of the arms, are even more pills to adjust the toe. Both active and static, i set everything to stock on these. The rear hubs also have a fail safe for the outer fully captured, hinge, pin two set screws to be a safety blanket as well as adjustable wheelbase with the included spacers rear clip is basically done and looking good back g has the all new. A arms sway bars and a and b blocks, keeping with the same theme as the rear, with the machined aluminum suspension holders straight from the eb 48 2.0. The arms of the truggie also have built in caster, or in other words the arms have a slight twist to them. This will make the front end much smoother and much more durable, there’ll be less caster in the blocks and less stress on the cvds front. Section is done now it’s time for the cool stuff bag. Age has a ton of quality and engineering with the caster blocks. Hubs: cvd drive, shafts and turnbuckles for the front first, the 15 degree caster blocks are beautiful and massive all machined aluminum very similar to the eb.
You also get hardened steel, stub axles and aluminum 17 millimeter hexes slightly wider on the front versus the rear building. The techno turnbuckles is spread over three bags, which is nice and they assembled great. I used a bit of chapstick as recommended in the manual first seen on the eb 48.4. We are seeing an even improved bearing assisted steering on the caster blocks. Huge pins right in and everything is very smooth with zero binding. The front end has many fill safes, including eight set screws that hold the pins for the outer pins and pins for the steering back. I builds the steering, rack acromin bar and servo saver. You do get an optional servo saver delete post, but i opted for the saver. Nearly locked out as the manual suggests lots of quality with the saver, tube, adjuster and acremen being aluminum. An easy way to tighten the nut is to use your 17 millimeter wheel, wrench, and i added some loctite, as recommended in the manual steering rack and turnbuckle, is assembled now it’s time to get things mounted up on the chassis. The new four millimeter thick 7075 aluminum heart anodized chassis, is a work of art. Lots of milling to stiffen it as well as save some weight. Let’S get mounting back. J includes the steering post top plate front brace, along with tons of m4 countersunk screws to mount the front clip. I loosely mounted the rack and post to the top plate, as you do have to key the posts into the chassis plate.
The rack is very smooth, though you do need to remove the front bumper as the new chassis keys into the a block and the front bumper somewhat locks into it. Back k includes all of the center section, including the motor mount center diff upright and top plate center drive shaft center and rear braces. The machined aluminum motor mount is my absolute favorite in the industry. No one else comes close, the front center bolts in nicely, and everything fits perfect. The entire front section spins so freely it’s amazing. Now, for the most puzzling piece in the new 2.0 techno kits, the puzzle piece you’ll find that once the step is complete, you’re left with this little tiny piece, that’s, actually a spacer that fits between the center diff top plate and the motor mount. If you choose not to run that center brace, i think this was the most asked question in the eb 48 2.0 kit. Everything mounted up now. This is looking like a truggy. I always build shocks last so bag, l and m we’ll have to wait till later. Back end gets you everything to mount your electronics and complete the center of the truckee servo and esc tray radio box battery tray and strap and the side guards. You also get the machined aluminum motor plate that has mounting available for 42 millimeter and 36 millimeter motors. Pretty much all from the eb, the new wider chassis leaves much more room for electronics.
The battery strap is a super wide one, but also has mounts for a vertical strap as an option. The servo esc tray mounts up nice with six screws securing it. The radial box is a bit bigger than the previous gen, but does have that gaping hole for the wires come on techno. We need a rubber gasket or something for that. The most minimal bag bag o has the steering link and the steering horns. A variety of three plastic starter horns i’ll quickly add on aluminum one here soon. Bag p includes the rear wing wing buttons, aluminum, serrated, wheel, nuts and body clips. A nice touch with aluminum inserts for the wing buttons and you do get the screws to mount the snout of the body, or i mean headlights, pretty much just two screws that screw directly into the shock tower. I did have to trim the headlight piece and the main body. It would have been nice if these were pre trimmed from the factory, as it is tough to make those elongated holes in the rear of the body. The body does mount on nice and i like how it’s a more protected body over a traditional truggy, but wait till my reveal video, where you’ll see how good this body can look alright back to bags, l and m the shocks. Techno does have some of the best shocks in the industry and, unlike the eb 48 2.0, these do have traditional front and rear shocks.
If you remember, the eb have the same size. Shocks on all four points with just a spacer is the difference. I’M, a bit ocd when laying out shock parts, so i like to have somewhat of an assembly line having the right tools makes it easy. So, specifically, the techno shock shaft pliers and 17 millimeter wheel wrench, along with some protect blue o, ring grease round out the assembly lots of quality, including aluminum threaded bodies, caps, adjusters, bottom caps round out the lineup. The kit comes with 700 cst for the fronts and 600 cst oil for the rears. The machined delrin pistons do mount using a five millimeter locknut the only time a five millimeter nut driver is needed on the build one. Big bummer is just like the eb. The o ring is a micron too thick on the shock collars so prepare to have some extremely sore hands after trying to screw on the spring adjuster. My thumbs are still hurting, as i film this. The shocks use a bladder cap option which does make the build go a bit quicker and i found the bleed to be easy and the shocks are some of the smoothest. I’Ve seen from techno proper length springs and capture spring purchase round out the shocks shocks mount up using a 5.5 millimeter nut driver on all points for ease of maintenance along with right hand and left handed thread studs for yet another fail safe. The owner’s manual is laid out well with lots of great illustrations, one to one dimensions of hardware and even written content, to explain some of the more crucial steps like shocks and differentials.
I didn’t find any mistakes in the manual as techno is the industry leader in manual writing here’s a few things i noted in my manual that may help with your build. The kit does come with diff shims, although the manual states to only use them if needed. I was able to fit one in the rear diff, but nothing in the front. The hub and arm inserts are a bit confusing on. First, look be sure to read this section and get all of the orientations down before inserting as the hub inserts can be flipped and the arm inserts have a left and right side denoted by the notches. Techno is quite unique as they’re. The only manufacturer that recommends chapstick to build the turnbuckles i’ve been using chapstick for years now. As i noted on the build section, you will have to remove the front bumper that was installed in a previous step to allow the chassis to key into the a block. Step. J3 shows this more thoroughly. I’Ve said it many times and i’ll say it again: more manufacturers need to have written shock, filling and bleeding instructions like techno. You cannot use multi language illustrations for this thanks techno on step and six, you get a small chart for pinion selection, with a wide variety of motors tracks and straight lengths. The only upgrade needed in any techno is an aluminum servo horn. It would be awesome if a 25 tooth aluminum horn was just included in the kit, although you do get a starter plastic horn in three varieties.
Finally, techno does a great job of just explaining setup, both with all the written content in the rear of the manual and suggested and blank setup sheets towards the end. Parts left over from the build include a healthy amount of alternative pills for all the suspension holders. Arms and hubs 23 and 24 tooth plastic horns: motor bolts, transponder screws, the famous puzzle piece, a few shims and the servo saver delete post overall. The et48 2.0 is a great build. It is well laid out with a great manual along with top quality parts that went into the kit. Part fitment was top notch and the amount of upgrades included in the kit is staggering. Besides the aluminum servo horn, nothing should be needed as an upgrade. I had no missing parts or sections that had leftover parts with no direction well, except for the puzzle piece, but now i pass the question off to you racer or basher. How should i build it up? Please leave your comments down in the comments section with that. I cannot wait to drop in some electronics paint up the body bolt on some wheels and tires so stay tuned for my build review here soon, as well as a first run, video right after, as always, if you like, the video hit the like button, if you Haven’T already subscribe to the channel and hit the notification bell to be notified anytime, i upload a video.